Discovering the Colour, Coffee and Culture of Colombia

My journey began in Cartagena, a beautifully preserved colonial city on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. Within the old walled city you find cobbled streets lined with painted balconies, colourful plazas and a constant Caribbean breeze. I joined a walking tour which was a brilliant way to get my bearings and hear the stories behind the buildings, the fortifications and the old city walls.

On the way to a local market we strolled through a little park that, at first glance, looked quite ordinary. Then we looked up and realised there were sloths in the trees. It felt incredibly special to see them just going about their slow, sleepy lives above the bustle. That was one of my favourite things about Cartagena: it is a living city, full of people selling fruit from carts, splashes of street art and the sound of salsa drifting from open doorways.

One evening we made our way to Café del Mar, a bar and restaurant set on the old city walls, famous for its sunset views across the sea and the rooftops of Cartagena. Sitting there with a drink in hand, watching the sky turn orange and pink over the domes and bell towers, was a real “pinch me” moment and a perfect way to end a day of exploring.

Leaving Cartagena, we made our way along the coast towards Santa Marta, with some unforgettable stops en route. One of the most unusual was a small mud volcano. From the road it looks fairly unassuming, but you climb a simple staircase to the top and suddenly you are looking down into a pool of thick, warm mud. You clamber in and float, completely weightless, in this silky, mineral‑rich bath, then head back down to a nearby pool to wash it all off. It is a slightly surreal experience, but fantastic fun and my skin felt incredibly soft afterwards. We also paused in Barranquilla, a lively port city famous for its colourful carnival, which gave me a lovely snapshot of everyday coastal life.

From there we continued to Santa Marta, one of the gateways to Tayrona National Natural Park. Tayrona became one of the real highlights of the trip. Many people hike in to reach their accommodation, following trails that wind through lush jungle. The sounds of birds and insects surround you, and every now and then the trees open up to reveal sudden views of the Caribbean Sea. There are other ways to reach some areas and properties, but for most visitors the walk is very much part of the adventure.

We slept in hammocks, which felt wonderfully simple and close to nature, but there are also beautiful lodges and bungalows hidden among the trees for those who prefer more comfort. Wherever you stay, it feels like a little haven, with wild beaches, palm trees, jungle behind you and plenty of monkeys and birdlife. One essential item: bug spray.

After leaving Tayrona we travelled inland, stopping at a waterfall and natural pool tucked into the mountains. It was one of those places that does not always feature in glossy brochures but feels pure and authentic: cool, clear water, green slopes all around and a real sense of being out in the Colombian countryside. We passed through pretty towns along the way, with colourful houses and relaxed plazas that gave a real flavour of small‑town Colombia.

Next came Medellín, a city that completely changed any preconceptions I had before the trip. Today Medellín feels vibrant and forward‑looking, with modern transport, public art and a strong sense of community. As with any big city you take sensible precautions, but tourism is genuinely welcomed and I felt comfortable exploring with a guide.

One of the most powerful experiences was visiting Comuna 13 (District 13). Once known as one of the most dangerous neighbourhoods, it has transformed itself through community projects, striking street art and outdoor escalators that climb the steep hillsides. On our tour we heard first‑hand stories about the history of gangs, drugs and violence, saw colourful murals that tell the story of resilience and hope, and enjoyed incredible viewpoints across a sea of houses cascading over the hills. We also took a Pablo Escobar tour. Medellín is rightly trying to move beyond the Escobar narrative, but learning about that chapter of history and even unexpectedly meeting Roberto Escobar was undeniably fascinating and gave deeper context to how far the city has come.

From Medellín we travelled into the heart of Colombia’s coffee region, staying near Manizales at a traditional hacienda in the hills. The setting was idyllic, surrounded by bamboo, banana plants, coffee bushes and coconut trees. We were served a freshly prepared Colombian lunch, had a dip in the pool and then simply sat and watched hummingbirds flit between the flowers, flashes of colour that never seemed to stay still long enough for a perfect photo. Life here moves at a gentler pace and it was incredibly easy to slow down with it.

Our next stop was Salento, a pretty little town known for its colourful balconies and as a base for exploring the surrounding valleys. We took part in a cacao workshop and stayed in a plantation house, which felt warm, homely and very authentic. The following day we joined a “coffee walk and talk” and workshop where we learned about the journey from bean to cup: how the coffee plants are grown and harvested, the impact of altitude and soil on flavour, the traditional ways of drying and roasting, and how important coffee is to local communities. Tasting coffee in the very place it is grown, with the scent of the plants in the air and farmers sharing their knowledge, is a treat for any coffee lover.

Food and drink were a huge part of the experience for me. Across Colombia I loved the super‑fresh tropical fruit from market stalls, simple home‑cooked lunches at rural haciendas and perfectly grilled fish on the Caribbean coast with coconut rice and plantain. In Salento we had an affogato‑style dessert that I still think about: smooth vanilla ice cream with a shot of rich Colombian espresso poured over the top. It was the perfect little reminder that, in Colombia, even the simplest flavours can feel incredibly special.

Towards the end of our time in Colombia we travelled much further south to Ipiales. It is quite a journey, but I was glad we made the effort. The town itself was lively and buzzing, with a real border‑town energy and plenty of local life to watch. About 30 kilometres from Ipiales we visited a breathtaking church and waterfall in the mountains, set in a deep gorge with dramatic scenery all around. It felt like a final, almost surreal postcard from Colombia before we crossed the border into Ecuador and continued our overland adventure.

Colombia is not a one‑note destination. It is Caribbean beaches and jungle hikes, buzzing cities and quiet haciendas, colourful street art and silent sloths in the treetops. It is a place of complex history, but also joy, creativity and an infectious zest for life. If you are curious about Colombia, whether you are drawn to culture, wildlife, coffee or simply somewhere vibrant and different, I would love to help you design a trip that feels safe, well paced and full of the kind of experiences that stay with you long after you return.

Contact me to start planning your own Colombian adventure.