Superb Sri Lanka
We flew direct with SriLankan Airlines, and I have to say, I was impressed. Great legroom, comfy reclining seats, and charming cabin crew in their gorgeous peacock-inspired uniforms. The food was tasty too, though the entertainment system had a mind of its own! Ten and a half hours later, we landed in Colombo, changed some money (better rates here than in the UK), picked up e-SIMs (£7 for 30GB for a week – bargain), and set off for nearby Negombo.
Our first stay was the stunning Uga Riva, a 200-year-old heritage home turned boutique hotel that has even hosted Mahatma Gandhi. With just seven rooms, it felt like stepping back in time. That evening, we met the Columbus team for a fabulous welcome dinner – faces I’d only known from emails now smiling across the table.
The next morning brought my first Sri Lankan breakfast – fragrant curries, hoppers, and heaps of tropical fruit – before we flew east on a tiny 8-seater Cessna to Batticaloa. Cinnamon Air has a fleet of three, two of which are sea planes, allowing for landings on the country’s numerous lakes as well as the coast. The planes were fitted out with very luxurious business class style leather seats and although I’m not a fan of prop planes the 45-minute flight beat six hours on the road!
Our base on the east coast was Uga Bay, a gorgeous beachfront hotel in Passikudah. We were greeted with flower garlands and bindis before checking into spacious rooms with ocean views. Two nights here gave us time to unwind: beach bar cocktails, dips in the pool, a workout (to balance the cocktails), and they even offer dinner on the beach with the seating carved entirely from sand! The buffet that night was a feast of Sri Lankan street food: hoppers, kottu roti, sambals, and fiery curries. “Mild” isn’t really a thing here, but who wants mild when you’re this far from home?
The following day was blissfully relaxed. After breakfast, a few of us went snorkelling just offshore – within minutes we were surrounded by parrotfish, butterflyfish, and wrasses. The east coast remains relatively undiscovered, and I can see why locals want to keep it that way. Later, we indulged in Balinese massages at the hotel spa — absolute heaven and a steal at $60. As the tropical rain poured that night, huge snails appeared on the paths (watch your step!), but the food and company more than made up for it.
Next morning we said goodbye to the coast and headed inland to the Cultural Triangle – Sri Lanka’s heart of ancient kingdoms. At Polonnaruwa, we wandered among centuries-old stupas, temples, and serene Buddha statues carved from granite. Lunch was at Priyamali Gedara, a family-run restaurant overlooking paddy fields, where we feasted on homemade curries and sambals, all bursting with flavour.
Then came Sigiriya Rock, Sri Lanka’s iconic fortress. Twelve hundred steps up, and my vertigo had me questioning every life choice – but the view from the top was worth every wobbly knee. My colleagues cheered me on, and descending backwards might just become my new thing!
That night we stayed at Uga Ulagalla in Anuradhapura, a lush estate with 25 private villas, each with a plunge pool. It poured with rain, so thank goodness for the golf buggies to get around in, we had a resident frog croaking loudly from the garden, and we dined in a candlelit restaurant in the old colonial manor – utterly charming.
The next morning, we set off for Ella, a long six-hour drive through hills and tea country. We stopped for a local kottu lunch (roti chopped up with eggs and vegetables – delicious and £2.50!) before jumping into tuk-tuks to visit Nine Arches Bridge, an Insta-famous railway spot. Sadly, the train was delayed, but we got to meet some very persistent leeches instead – consider that your travel tip!
Our overnight stop was the Dream Cliff Mountain Resort, where the rooms resemble luxurious beehives clinging to the hillside. The rain hid the view that night, but sunrise revealed a sea of mist and forest below – monkeys in the treetops, birds calling, and golden light spilling across the valley. Magic.
From there, we journeyed to Yala National Park, famous for its leopards. The drive took us past spectacular waterfalls at Diyaluma before reaching Uga Chena Huts – my absolute favourite. Think luxury safari meets beach retreat: private thatched huts on stilts, plunge pools, and boardwalks through the mangroves.
Our afternoon game drive was a highlight. Along with the elusive leopard (spotted the next morning – a mother and two adult cubs!), we saw elephants, buffalo, crocodiles, monkeys and flocks of colourful birds. Yala is alive with wildlife – truly one of Asia’s great safari experiences.
The next day was all about giving back. We’d brought school supplies to donate to a local primary school and were greeted like VIPs. The children performed dances, beaming with pride, and their joy was infectious. Afterwards, we each planted a fruit tree at a community reforestation project – mine was a lemon tree, and yes, I plan to check on it one day! We also stopped at a turtle conservation centre, where volunteers collect and conserve the eggs of sea turtles and release the hatchlings to the ocean, as well as rehabilitating and releasing injured turtles.
Our final stop was Galle, the charming colonial fort town with cobbled lanes, boutique shops, and sea views. It’s the perfect place to pick up souvenirs (and spend your last rupees). We only had an hour – probably for the best!
We spent our last night at Aditya Resort, a tranquil beachfront haven near Galle. Huge rooms, ocean views, and a sense of calm that wrapped up the trip beautifully.
As we packed to head home, I couldn’t help but feel grateful. Sri Lanka is a country of contrasts – ancient and modern, lush and wild, vibrant and serene. Every smile, every spice-laden meal, every monkey, frog, and turtle made me fall a little more in love with the place.
Sthuthi, Sri Lanka – thank you for the memories. I’ll be back for my lemon tree.