Magnificent Montenegro

The summer holidays came around again, regular as clockwork since my daughter started school 8 years ago. After the annual camping trip with friends we started to think of azure seas and warm evenings. But where shall we explore this time? I had always had a hankering for Montenegro, something about the small country on the Adriatic had been calling to me. We had been to Croatia a couple of times so felt it would be familiar territory, and it was, with similar scenery and the same crystal clear waters. We flew into Dubrovnik, I really love landing here as the approach is full of amazing views. Views of Islands dotted in the sea and dramatic mountains rising in the east. Plus the airport is quite small so you can get through and on your way very quickly. Dubrovnik is located just a few miles from the border with Montenegro and it was easy to cross on that first night. There are two border crossings here, one main one and a smaller one located closer to the coast. There are webcams at both which allow you to view the traffic levels, this is useful and terrifying in equal measure!

First stop was in Herzeg Novi, a bay side town just at the entrance to the Bay of Kotor. It stretches for miles along the bay and has slivers of tiny pebble beach and platforms where you can get involved in the number one activity - swimming in the gorgeous water. The water is so clear, warm and beautiful you can't stay out of it for long. The children donned their masks and jumped straight in to see what marine life was lurking. Happily, just fish!! Many tasty restaurants stretch out along the waterfront too, right the way along the path into the old town. Prices were cheaper than Dubrovnik too I'm pleased to say. A fabulous way to while away 3 days, swimming and eating and mooching. The travel agent in me also took some joy in watching various lovely cruise ships coming and going from Kotor!

After the few days here the hire car was packed up and off we went. The road around the bay is busy, especially in August, and there is no way around it you just have to join in. After 45 minutes or so the bay narrows then opens up and you are greeted with some fantastic views. We then headed up towards the mountains and the gaining elevation only accentuated the spectacular views. The drive up to Durmitor National Park was around 3 hours but the roads were great and very quiet. There are not many places to stop on the way, so stock up on water and snacks before setting off. We did find a random oasis of a restaurant about halfway which was serving tasty local delights! Upon reaching our destination of Zabljak we were struck by the unique nature of the ski lodge style houses and the ski resort feel the place had to it. I think they must get their fair amount of snow in the winter! The town had everything needed for a few days of exploring. There are restaurants, serving dishes such as goulash and plates of meat with clotted cream (surprisingly tasty), a couple of supermarkets and lots of tours on offer. This is Montenegro's playground. You name an adrenalin fuelled activity, you can do it here! We booked white water rafting on the crystal clear Tara River. The river was not in full flood, it being August, but actually it was flowing enough and meant I didn't have to worry about losing the children off the side of the raft. The water is absolutely the clearest water I have ever seen in my life, stunning. The river gorge is terrifyingly deep and narrow, I can only imagine what it is like at times of high water.

Aside from the rafting you can walk to the Black Lake for a swim, along with three thousand other people! Its all very pretty, albeit busy in August. Even though it is busy, there is enough space up here to carve out your own slice. We also drove the Durmitor Ring. It took us most of the day but was a really spectacular, scenic drive. The mountains are stunning, there are some incredible rock formations to oggle and lots of viewpoints to stop at.

After a few days here it was time to head back towards the hot, hot coast. This time, further south of the bay, in Budva. Our destination this time was a lovely hotel here with a rooftop pool and terrace, nice. It was only one minute walk to the beach and they have their own sunbeds for guests. Budva in August is a busy, lively town, more suited to the younger crowd with its bars and nightlife. There is a plethora of water based action to be enjoyed here from banana rides to parascending. An enjoyable time with more time spent exploring the beaches around Budva and of course, more time spent upside down in the sea!

Heading back to Dubrovnik for the flight home was not as straightforward as the way in. Traffic was a nightmare and the handy webcams at the border crossings showed nothing but lengthy queues. I would strongly advise not crossing the border on the same day as an intended flight home. Thankfully everyone remained calm and we made it home eventually. One to chalk down to experience, but not something I am looking to ever repeat. Montenegro, however, I am very willing to repeat!