South Africa: Western Cape Road Trip

If you have read my previous blog, you will know that I first visited South Africa over 20 years ago, when I spent six weeks road-tripping throughout the country. Since then, I have been back five times, most recently last Christmas.

It is one of those destinations that gets under your skin (in the best possible way), with the added bonus of almost guaranteed sunshine at the very time of year it is anything but guaranteed here in the UK.

Every trip, I try to do a little mix of both: revisit my favourite places like Cape Town and Stellenbosch, and then add somewhere completely new. On my most recent trip, I combined some time in my much-loved spots with a road trip into the Cederberg Mountains and then out to the beautiful beaches of the Western Cape.

If you have done the Garden Route and a safari before and you are thinking, “OK… what next?”, this kind of self-drive itinerary is a brilliant “second (or third!) time in South Africa” option.

First stop: Paarl

After flying from the UK, we stopped for one night in Paarl and stayed on a vineyard at Laborie Estate. It is an easy drive, only around an hour from the airport, and a lovely gentle way to arrive.

Laborie Wine Estate is one of South Africa’s oldest wine farms, established in 1691. Accommodation is dotted amongst the vineyards, with an old Cape Dutch homestead, beautiful lawns and gardens, restaurants and tasting rooms: everything you need to instantly shift into holiday mode.

And walking into our room was a real “wow”. Vines out front, hills behind, and that easy vineyard quiet – I could feel myself relax as soon as we arrived.

But we were not here for long. This was our “reset night” before heading inland to the Cederberg.

Into the Cederberg: Kagga Kamma Nature Reserve

I have had Kagga Kamma Nature Reserve on my wish list for a few years, and it did not disappoint.

It is set amongst dramatic sandstone hills on a 27,000-acre private reserve, and you can stay a few different ways: camping, lodge-style rooms, self catering or luxury open-air suites for a true “sleep under the stars” experience.

I will confess: I am not quite brave enough  to sleep outside, and I definitely prefer comfort to camping. We booked a Hut Suite, which was a close to the restaurant, spa and pool, and had views across the fynbos plains to the Cederberg Mountains.

After a long, bumpy drive from Paarl, including plenty of dirt road, our first stop was the spa. Exactly what the body needed before Sundowners and a dinner around the fire pit later that evening.

On our first night, the clouds rolled in, so no stargazing for us. But South Africa has a way of giving you what you came for eventually. On the second night, we joined a stargazing drive with a knowledgeable guide and finally got that night-sky spectacle: constellations you never see in the northern hemisphere, the Milky Way spread right across the sky, and that feeling of being very small in a very big universe.

The daytime was spent exploring the rock formations along the many walking routes on the property and relaxing by the pool. It is the kind of place that invites you to do as little or as much as you like. There are nature drives and rock art tours throughout the day, and plenty of mountain bike routes to explore too.

Seaside escape: Paternoster on the West Coast

Our next stop was Paternoster on the South Atlantic coast, reached via a series of mountain passes. The drive was nothing less than spectacular, with the scenery shifting from red rock and rugged mountains to lush, green valleys and forests.

 Paternoster started life as a small fishing village and it’s definitely grown in popularity. Now it’s a lovely mix of locals, permanent residents and holidaymakers who clearly know a good thing when they see it. The town itself is all whitewashed cottages, colourful fishing boats pulled up on the sand, big open beaches and that wild, slightly bracing ocean – far too chilly for me, but perfect for long beach walks, reading and enjoying laid-back beach life.

Our stay coincided with lobster season, so the local restaurants were all serving it in various delicious forms. This is not a place for fussy fine dining: it is all about fresh, local, generous portions.

 A lesser-known wine stop: Groote Post in the Darling Hills

Then it was time to head south to Cape Town, but not before a stop for lunch at Groote Post Wine Estate in the Darling Hills.

This is a lesser-known wine area compared to Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, and that is part of the charm. The Atlantic breezes here keep things cooler, which is ideal for Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz, and you really notice the difference in the style of wines.

It felt more low-key and local, a bit off the standard wine-route circuit, with rolling hills, big skies and that laid-back farm atmosphere that South Africa does so well.

If you have been to South Africa before…

…and you are craving something new (but you still want the classics), add a week in the Cederberg and along the West Coast. You will not regret it.

If you would like ideas for a “next time in South Africa” itinerary, whether you are into wine, wildlife, beaches, boutique stays, or a road trip that does not feel rushed, get in touch, and I will help you map it out.