Croatia

Why a small yacht, not a big cruise ship?

Mel Stead on 01 Aug 2023

Sailing Croatia: My Small Yacht Adventure & Why It Is The Perfect Way To See The Dalmatian Coast In 2023 I sailed around the coast of Croatia on a small luxury yacht, and it was, quite simply, spectacular. It is one of those trips that has really stayed with me, and it has completely shaped the way I now recommend Croatia to my clients. If you imagine “cruising” as big ships, crowds and fleeting glimpses of each port, this is the total opposite. Think: a stylish small yacht, calm bays that large ships cannot reach, and the freedom to step ashore each day to explore, dine and wander at your own pace. In this blog I am sharing my own experience sailing from Split and around the Dalmatian islands, and why a small‑boat itinerary might be the perfect way for you to discover Croatia too.

For this trip I chose a small luxury yacht, and that decision made all the difference.

With fewer guests on board, it felt relaxed and intimate, not busy or overwhelming. There was space to stretch out on deck, time to chat to the crew and fellow guests, and a real sense of being on a shared adventure rather than just another passenger.

The smaller size meant we could:

  • Anchor overnight in tiny, tranquil bays that big ships cannot access
  • Moor right in or very close to the heart of towns
  • Swim straight from the yacht in crystal‑clear water
  • Enjoy a slower pace, with enough time in each destination to actually explore, not just tick it off

I also loved the flexibility in how I spent my days: some afternoons were all about sunbathing and swimming; others were for sightseeing, strolling through old towns, or dressing up and heading out to a beautiful restaurant.


My route: Island hopping through Croatia

My itinerary started and ended in [Split], with overnight stops in:

  • Stari Grad
  • Hvar
  • Mljet
  • Dubrovnik
  • Korčula
  • Makarska
    …before returning to Split for one final night.

Each stop had a different personality, and that variety is what makes a Croatian small‑boat trip so special.

Split: History, energy and Diocletian’s Palace

Split was both my starting and ending point, and it is a brilliant introduction to Croatia.

The heart of the city is Diocletian’s Palace: a remarkably well‑preserved Roman palace that now forms part of the modern old town. Walking through its narrow streets, hidden courtyards and atmospheric cellars felt like stepping back in time, yet everything is alive with cafés, restaurants and shops.

For clients, I always suggest:

  • Spending at least one night in Split, ideally at the start or end of your trip
  • Making time for a guided walking tour of Diocletian’s Palace
  • Enjoying a drink along the Riva promenade as the sun goes down
Stari Grad: Authentic charm and UNESCO‑listed history

From Split we sailed to the island of Hvar, but instead of heading straight for the famous town, our first overnight was in Stari Grad.

Stari Grad is one of the oldest towns in Europe, and it has a wonderfully traditional, unhurried feel. I loved wandering the stone streets, discovering little squares and harbourside restaurants, and then dining in a World Heritage listed old town that still feels very local and genuine.

This is the quieter, more authentic side of Hvar island: perfect if you enjoy history, pretty lanes and relaxed evenings by the water.

Hvar: Glamour, views and vibrant evenings

Next came Hvar Town, which has a very different feel: lively, stylish and full of energy.

I spent time exploring the harbour area and the polished stone streets, before walking up to the Spanjola Fortress. The climb is worth every step for that panoramic view over the terracotta rooftops and out to the Pakleni Islands.

What stood out for me in Hvar:

  • The buzz in the marina as yachts glide in and out
  • Chic bars and restaurants that are perfect for a special evening
  • The contrast between the excitement of Hvar Town and the quieter charm of Stari Grad

For clients who like a bit of nightlife, glamorous people‑watching and sophisticated dining, Hvar is ideal. For a more gentle pace, pairing it with Stari Grad (or staying overnight there instead) works beautifully.

Mljet: Nature, tranquillity and a 12th‑century monastery

Leaving Hvar, the cruise continued to the green island of Mljet, and this was one of the most peaceful parts of the trip.

Mljet feels lush and laid‑back, with pine forests, lakes and walking trails. I explored a 12th‑century Benedictine Monastery on an island within Mljet’s national park, surrounded by calm water and greenery. It is a real contrast to the busier towns and a lovely place to slow down, breathe and reconnect with nature.

If you enjoy walking, cycling or simply soaking up quiet scenery, Mljet is a wonderful addition to an island‑hopping route.

Dubrovnik: Iconic walls and cinematic views

From the stillness of Mljet, we sailed on to Dubrovnik, which really does live up to its “Pearl of the Adriatic” reputation.

The highlight for me was walking Dubrovnik’s famous city walls, with their sweeping views over the terracotta rooftops, the sea and nearby islands. Inside the walls, the marble streets and baroque buildings create a truly magical atmosphere.

With a small yacht, you can enjoy the best of Dubrovnik without being overwhelmed by the crowds:

  • Arrive by sea for that unforgettable first impression
  • Spend the day exploring at your own pace
  • Retreat back to the calm of the yacht in the evening

For many clients, adding extra time in Dubrovnik at the start or end of a sailing itinerary works particularly well if you want to delve deeper into the city.

Korčula: Storybook streets and Marco Polo’s legacy

Days 5 and 6 were spent on the island of Korčula, which quickly became one of my favourites.

Korčula Town feels like a mini‑Dubrovnik with its fortified walls and narrow lanes, but with a more intimate, laid‑back atmosphere. I spent time wandering through the old streets, tracing stories of Marco Polo (Korčula claims to be his birthplace) and enjoying dinner in atmospheric restaurants overlooking the sea.

This is a fantastic stop for food, wine and history lovers, with some excellent local wineries on the island too.

Makarska: Seaside charm and unforgettable sunsets

Our next stop was the seaside town of Makarska, framed by mountains on one side and the sea on the other.

I loved the relaxed promenade, the beaches and the opportunity to simply slow down and enjoy the coastal setting. One of my standout memories is catching one of Makarska’s famous sunsets: the sky glowing over the sea while people strolled, swam and gathered along the waterfront.

For clients who want time on the beach, Makarska is a lovely, unpretentious stop that still offers plenty of atmosphere and charm.

Hidden bays, long evenings and time to linger

One of the real luxuries of this small‑yacht trip was waking up in tiny, secluded bays where the big cruise ships cannot reach.

We could:

  • Swim in quiet, protected coves before breakfast
  • Relax on deck with hardly another boat in sight
  • Enjoy a sense of privacy and calm that you simply do not get in large ports

Then, as the day progressed, we would sail on to our next island or town, arriving with enough time to explore properly and then head out for dinner. Having long evenings ashore meant I could try different restaurants, sample local seafood and wines, and enjoy each destination long after the day‑trippers had left.

Is a small‑boat Croatia trip right for you?

From my own experience, a small luxury yacht or small‑ship itinerary around Croatia is ideal if you:

  • Want a more intimate and personal alternative to big‑ship cruising
  • Like the idea of seeing several destinations in one trip without constantly packing and unpacking
  • Enjoy a balance of relaxation, sightseeing, beaches and great food
  • Prefer access to quieter bays, smaller harbours and more characterful towns
  • Value flexibility, with the option to sunbathe, swim, explore or dine out as much (or as little) as you like

You still get all the comforts of a premium holiday: beautifully presented cabins, attentive service, time to relax on deck, and the chance to dress up for dinner. The difference is the scale, the atmosphere and the access to places that feel more authentic and less crowded.

Ready to plan your own Croatian sailing story?

My 2023 trip around Croatia was one of the most memorable journeys I have taken: Split, Stari Grad, Hvar, Mljet, Dubrovnik, Korčula and Makarska all offered something unique, yet the whole experience felt seamless and beautifully paced.

If you would like to discover Croatia by small yacht or small ship, I can design a tailor‑made itinerary that matches your style of travel: whether you are dreaming of romantic sunsets and wine, active days exploring and walking city walls, or lazy hours on deck and in the sea.

Contact me to start planning your own Croatian sailing adventure and I will help you create a trip that feels every bit as special as it looks.

signature