Captivating Carcassonne
We flew from Stansted - with Ryanair for the first time in many years and I must say I was impressed. The flight was bang on time each way, the crew was efficient, and the choice of food and drink to buy on board was very good. I particularly dislike coffee on aeroplanes but Ryanair’s cappuccino was as good as I’ve had in any upmarket café on land.
We checked into the gorgeous Hotel de la Cité after the taxi had dropped us off at the entrance to the medieval walled town where we were then transferred into the hotel’s minibus shuttle for the couple of minutes’ drive through unbelievably narrow arches and the mostly traffic-free bumpy cobbled lanes of the old town to the hotel. We received a very friendly welcome, and after a quick unpack (our room was fairly small and didn’t have much hanging or shelf space, but it was perfectly adequate for 3 nights) and a freshen-up we ventured out to find somewhere to eat. What a choice! I have never been anywhere with so many bars and restaurants – it was almost wall-to-wall! Even a couple of what looked like simple gift shops had a courtyard at the side where you could eat. The local dish is the ubiquitous cassoulet (goose or duck and sausage stew with white beans), so of course we had to try it, and it was really delicious. As were all the meals we had – I think with such a high concentration of eateries any establishment that isn’t up to scratch would surely quickly go out of business.
You can walk around the old town in just a few minutes and I think we covered just about every square inch – it was an absolute pleasure to simply wander around and stop for coffee or something stronger as and when we felt like it (needless to say that was quite often – you know me too well!). The weather was beautifully sunny – warm enough to sit outside everywhere but not too hot so we were able to wander around in comfort. May is a great time to visit places like this when spring has really sprung but before the real crowds arrive in July and August.
The day before we returned home we went on a half day tour. It was a little rushed as it was a “set menu” (we had asked the Concierge to book us a private tour to Rennes le Chateau and that is what we thought he had booked for us, but this must have been lost in translation as we were joined by a Japanese and two Bulgarian ladies!), but Rennes le Chateau is very small and we saw all we wanted to there in just over an hour. The church and museum were interesting and informative as well as a little spooky with its statue of the devil at the door. The tour then went on to Alet les Bains for a short 20 minute stop to see the abbey (and some very unexpected line-dancing at an open air flea market!), and then to Limoux for a half hour refreshment stop to visit a bar on the main square where a live band was playing on a stage and lots of people were dancing. It was quite an amusing eye opener and a lovely way to finish the afternoon. You just don’t get this in England!
Apart from our afternoon tour we stayed within the walled old town of Carcassonne – other than driving through we didn’t see or explore the newer town. I’m sure it has its good points (in particular the view up to the walled town which is spectacular, especially at night when it is all lit up), but it’s the old town which houses the real charm and magic of Carcassonne.
As part of our “mission” to visit Michelin starred restaurants whenever we can, we were delighted to find that our hotel restaurant (La Barbacane) has a Michelin star. We didn’t choose a tasting menu as we have done recently elsewhere, and it was slightly disappointing that the restaurant also doubled as the hotel’s breakfast restaurant, but the ambience was just right and the décor very elegant in the wood panelled room, and we certainly weren’t disappointed with the quality of food – nor indeed the value at 150 Euros per person for amuse-bouche plus 3 courses and a bottle of pretty decent wine. The cheese board was to die for, including some options so strong and aromatic they must surely be illegal anywhere else but France. My lobster main course was possibly the best lobster I’ve ever tasted, and I’ve had quite a few lobsters in my life I must say, including one or two as fresh as you can get straight from the sea.
Although the locals all spoke reasonably good English, I practised quite a bit of French (probably more than my husband who is SUPPOSEDLY trying to become fluent – it’s not going all that well!) and I even got to speak some Italian with one of the hotel staff who had lived in Rome recently for 3 years.
A really fantastic trip to one of the most beautiful parts of France, indeed Europe. Now I am counting down the days to our visit to Ravello on the Amalfi coast in early July – see you again then!
