Granada and Almeria, Spain
By staying in the hilly ancient Albaicin district, the narrow cobbled thoroughfares made for a peaceful stay with the absence of traffic.
The skyline of Granada is somewhat dominated by the 13th century fort and palace complex, the Alhambra. However, we elected to walk past it on day two, and into the Generalife park to the east of it. Fabulous views of the snow capped Sierra Nevada mountain range are ever present from here.
The crown jewel of Granada, the Alhambra, is an impressive fortress...and during the course of a few days we saw it from several angles as well as from within. It has ornate palaces, lush gardens, and courtyards, harking from the era of the Nasrid dynasty. The intricate stucco work, the delicate arches, and the serene fountains... are marvellous.
A visit eastwards to Sacromonte was taken... with another good walk over the hills to north of the city. Sacromonte is still the home of many Roma and has many cave dwellings dug into the mountainsides. It is also one of the origins of flamenco....of which we enjoyed a show in Granada.
Another local bus excursion was taken to Monachil... to walk along the river into the mountains there..rather beautiful.
Leaving Granada behind, we embarked on a scenic coach ride towards the coastal city of Almeria. The rugged landscapes of Andalusia and its spaghetti western film sets, unfolded along the way, with olive groves, vineyards, and rolling hills stretching as far as the eye could see...
Almeria is a fairly compact city, has a nice promenade and is surrounded by a vibrant tomato and fruit growing industry. The 10th century Alcazaba of Almeria lies to the northwest of the city, a worthwhile visit with its keep, gardens and historic walls. The neighbouring San Cristobal statue overlooks Almeria. The unusual Cable Inglés (English Pier) by the port, is a relic from 1904...an iron railway pier built to transfer iron ore, copper, and silver from trains servicing the British and French-run mines in Granada to cargo ships at the port in Almeria. There is also a film museum, which was home to John Lennon whilst he was filming here in 1966.
From there, a day trip was taken to the stunning Cabo de Gata-Nijar Natural Park, a coastal reserve known for its dramatic cliffs, hidden coves, and pristine beaches. We hiked along rugged trails, marvelling at the sheer beauty of the landscape...and indeed, one part of the journey through the mountains was completely uninhabited for 3 miles...with nothing but hunters and the hunted there within apparently....the local guide said it would be ok, despite the no entry signs! The trip ended with a straight 3 mile coastal walk back to the town of Cabo de Gata past the salinas salt flats... a fine day out.
Another excursion we took was day out to the west of Almeria to Las Marinas, salt flats with its flamingos... and alongside the wide beaches of Playa Serena up to Roquetas de Mar.
We also ventured to the charming coastal town of San Jose, nestled between the mountains and the sea. With its whitewashed buildings, narrow cobblestone streets, and bustling harbour, San Jose exudes a truly Spanish vibe. And from, there another lovely walk along the craggy coast to Playa Los Esculloas and back round via Pozo de las Frailes to San Jose.
Granada is a must see city.. and works well with Almeria.