Marrakech
I spent the first night at the Es Saadi hotel which whilst officially graded as a five star, was perhaps more of a four star; the adjacent Es Saadi Palace was beautiful and very deserving of its five star classification. This part of the hotel has room combinations large enough to accommodate 8 people, some with private pools and some with patio doors leading to the gardens/pool area - brilliant for families with young children. The main pool is the largest in Marrakech and was stunning.
The city has many much smaller boutique style hotels called Riads, and we saw quite a number of them. Most are hidden away in the maze of streets, down small alleyways – and the very nature of the buildings mean that there are no external windows. They were built to keep the heat out, and have instead central courtyards with gardens and fountains to keep the property cool in the African sun. Therefore many of the bedrooms have no windows or outside space, but instead are accessed via small courtyards paved with beautiful mosaic tiles. Ornate woodwork and amazingly intricate hand sculptured plasterwork provide detail. Some of the doors we saw must have been hundreds of years old, yet still in use. Small narrow staircases lead up on to roof top terraces where you can find sun loungers to relax, or indeed enjoy a cocktail or a meal. Our last morning in the city was spent enjoying a sunrise breakfast on the roof terrace whilst watching the storks perched in nests on the nearby rooftops, feeding their young.
Many Riads have created small swimming pools in larger courtyards, which provide cooling relaxation after wandering around the city in the heat. Most also have spas.
On our second full day in the city, we left the hectic hustle and bustle of the city and drove out towards Asni, which is in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. The drive was wonderful and we passed through many Berber villages including one which was hosting a weekly market. Many of the Berber villages are still off the beaten track so the transport system is a donkey of which we saw plenty. School is mandatory and yet many children have no access as the walk is just too far for them. It truly is a different world to our own.
Our first stop in the mountains was the Branson owned 28 roomed Kasbah Tamadot which I knew would be one of the highlights of my trip. For anyone wanting to escape the hustle and bustle not only of Marrakech but even 21st century life in general, this property is truly superb. The setting is just amazing perched high on the hill with a river winding through the valley below, and the snow-capped Atlas Mountains in the back drop. The building itself has been lovingly restored retaining its Moroccan roots. The gardens are stunning with small seating areas and of course the wonderful heated pool playing centre stage. We enjoyed a fabulous meal high on the terrace overlooking the entire property. There are various room types but the most amazing one has to be the traditional (yet luxuriously appointed) Berber tent complete with deck and plunge pool overlooking the valley.
If you want the experience at less than half the cost, the nearby Kasbah Angour ticks a lot of boxes. We stopped here for a typical Berber tea on the way back to the city. The owner of this property showed us around this amazing hotel which he has lovingly built again on a hillside overlooking the valley. Built in local red sandstone and with amazing attention to detail, this property has been completely furnished using traditional and locally crafted materials. This area is a walker’s paradise with many guided walks and you can even do a 2 day excursion to climb a nearby mountain.
Our final full day in the city was spent visiting two world class but very different hotels. Firstly the 209 room La Mamounia, which is as iconic in Marrakech as Raffles is in Singapore. It reopened a few years ago after a massive refurbishment and it is absolutely stunning – extremely opulent furnishings in the public areas and beautiful bedrooms. We had a great poolside lunch here and the service was exceptional. The medina walls form part of the boundary to this hotel so it is well located to explore the city. Our final stop was at the new Four Seasons, which ticks all the boxes if you want 21st century modern contemporary accommodation with superb facilities. It doesn’t have the Moroccan charm of the Riads or the traditional elegance of La Mamounia but it is a world class hotel.
I packed a lot into 4 days. We did some of the sights of the city – we visited the El Bahia Palais which is the only palace open to the public in the country. It is an amazing building yet is still in need of much restoration. We also wandered the streets and enjoyed the hubbub of Djemaa el-Fna square with the many market stalls and traders. The city traffic is horrendous and you do have to take care when crossing the roads – there is noise and people are keen to sell you their wares – but we met many wonderful local people and found them to be utterly charming. The best time to explore the city is early morning when there are so few people around and you can enjoy the beautiful buildings. I was also surprised to see so many flowers – roses, geraniums, and even pansies bloom in abundance.
It was an amazing short break and I thoroughly recommend it as a destination!