Travelling slow in Kyrgyzstan

Helen Bateman on 20 July 2018
It is impossible to be disappointed by Kyrgyzstan, with its alpine like valleys, high altitude lakes, mountain ranges, horsemanship and friendly local people.

We entered Kyrgyzstan on the eastern edge from China, having setting off on our journey from Kashgar. After lots of border bureaucracy we crossed the 3752m Torugart Pass, which is enough to take your breath away, but remember to keep the camera handy. We spent our first night camping at a yurt camp near the old caravanserei at Tash Rabat. Here we had time to explore the old building and get acclimatised to a complete change of pace from western China.

During our trip we stayed in the capital of Bishkek, before heading to the 'gorgeous' Ala Archa gorge to make camp and enjoy the hiking trails. Another breath-taking opportunity came soon after when we took to the white waters at Chong Kemin for rafting, needless to say the 1530m altitude ensured the waters were fresh!

Next up was the Jeti Oguz valley for more camping, hiking and horse riding (where we met the lads in the photo) One of the most beautiful hikes takes you to the glacier, or nearer by you can explore the waterfalls.

In Kochkor we met one of the famed Eagle hunters, with his beloved golden eagle. The hunters and their eagles have an amazing bond developed over long periods of time.

My highlight was the super high (and chilly) Song Kul Lake, which is only accessible in summer due to the snows, so we were lucky to get there. We slept in yurts, all huddled together, making it surprisingly warm! During the day we witnessed some of the traditional Krygyz games which all involved displays of horsemanship. Most impressively, a ring is dropped on the floor and at full gallop the rider has to reach drop to pick it up - now the horses aren't that small - its was brilliant. Also on display was goat polo, the winning team taking home the winnings for dinner, wrestling from horse back and chasing each other around in return for anything from a kiss, to marriage (apparently)!

Lower in the valleys we encountered walnut forests in Arslanbob, wild camped near incredible lakes (you can see we even took a dip whilst we waiting for dinner!

What a trip - writing this, makes me want to go back as soon as possible!