Spell-binding scenery & heart-melting people: why Vietnam needs be next on your to-do list
But, delve a bit deeper, and Vietnam could well come up trumps for you. This long, skinny nation pays tribute to its sobering war history, but does so with the most beauty and peace you can imagine. Mix that with ancient towns brimming with colour and life and stunning scenery straight out of a screensaver and you can easily spend two weeks here without even thinking about hopping to another Asian destination.
I was lucky enough to enjoy a 10-night North to South Vietnam with the wonderful Intrepid Travel recently. Intrepid are always on my radar when I know that my guests are itching for an adventurous holiday with the insight of travelling with a passionate local guide and the comfort of travelling aside a small group. They’re perfect for solo travel, couples, friends and families (they offer specific tours for families, ages normally start from 5 upwards).
Vietnam had been on my periphery for a while, but not enough that it’d worked its way up to anywhere near the top of the list. Apart from Forrest Gump, I didn’t know anything about the Vietnam War, and I had it pegged as somewhere that could be a bit complicated to get around, and not necessarily somewhere to get the beach hit that’s so popular after exploring.
I flew Turkish Airlines into Hanoi which is Vietnam’s capital, set in the north of the country. I don’t know what I expected of Hanoi, but I absolutely loved it. There’s lots of skyscrapers on the skyline, but as you get into the city itself, it’s a ramshackle mix of crumbling French Oriental architecture, huge Banyan trees, elegant avenues and totally chaotic Vietnamese life with millions of scooters (our winner had a family of five on one), street food and stalls proffering every tropical fruit and weird sea creature in a bucket known to man.
Most people use Hanoi as a jumping off point for Ha Long Bay, but it also definitely deserves some time in its own right. If you’re on a tight schedule though, Ha Long is the must do in these parts. It might not be a name you can instantly pinpoint, but you’ll more than likely have seen it on idyllic travel ads and even films like James Bond, Kong and Pan. Ha Long Bay is the main, touristy bay but there are also quieter parts. We were in neighbouring Lan Ha. Wherever you go, the waters are a deep jade green and punctuated with limestone islands and karsts covered in emerald forest. We stayed on a boutique cruise for the night, anchored in the bay and with complimentary activities like kayaking and starlit squid fishing. We had an incredible time drinking cocktails as the sun set behind the landscape. Then a less-fun-but-still-beautiful-nonetheless time watching it rise again from the privacy of my balcony at 5am with both jetlag and a hangover.
The consensus in the group was that nothing could top Ha Long Bay. But then we went to Hoi An. Pictured Vietnam with lots of lantern-strung streets and ornate wooden teahouses? This is your place. Part of the Silk Route, ancient Hoi An is a gorgeous treasure trove of street markets, tiny traditional craft shops and tailors. In the evening, when thousands of colourful lights shine from the trees and streets, you can pay a couple of pounds for a paper lantern, and gently bob up the river by rowing boat to release it into the water in memory of someone you love. A really special experience. There’s also a pumping nightlife here, so if you’re shots over sombreness, it’s got you covered too.
Hoi An’s ancient town is in easy proximity to the beaches, and this central stretch of the country is where I’d suggest heading for some down time. What’s so special about it here is that the coastline rivals the beauty of more well-known spots, but it’s still just a bit more undiscovered, by most UK clients at least.
Hoi An is also where I fell completely in love with the Vietnamese people who are the most gentle, peaceful and industrious you can imagine. We took a countryside biking tour through the rural islands of Hoi An, calling in at a rice wine business run by Mr Gao. A veteran of the Cambodian Civil War, he’d lost a leg in the fighting but, despite all the terrible things he’d seen and been through, was the most positive and hopeful person you’ll likely ever meet. His walls were filled with snapshots from his career as a musician and proudly pointed out photos of his wife and children. He’d risked and put everything into starting his rice wine business, taking the rice from every stage from harvest to labelling the bottles at the end. He told us cheerfully about everything he’d experienced in his life, and then sang us a song with his guitar. It goes without saying that I was a wreck. He summed up what’s so enormously endearing about Vietnamese people: they don’t harbour grudges or ill-will, they just want to live a happy, contented life.
Our final call was Ho Chi Minh City, and, to me, this put into perspective the rest of the journey. The city is more fast-paced and futuristic, a bit more like the Asia you imagine. It’s also home to places like the Cu Chi Tunnels and War Remnants Museum. We did the latter, and it was harrowing. As someone with little knowledge on the Vietnam War, it was confronting viewing, but also essential to understand what the people have endured, and come out the other side of.
This incredible tour gave me an experience I’ll truly never forget, made even more special by sharing it with other people along the way.
If you’re considering Vietnam, or wondering what’s so special about Intrepid or small group touring, I’d love to talk you through the options to help you decide what’s right for you.
