The Smoke That Thunders

Jen Bekker on 12 November 2020
The Kalolo-Lozi people had their own name for Victoria Falls — Mosi-oa-Tunya, “the smoke that thunders” and you immediately know why after seeing the plumes of mist that hover over this huge waterfall.

On the border of Zimbabwe and Zambia, Victoria Falls is the perfect add-on to any Southern Africa trip. You can stay in either Victoria Falls town on the Zimbabwe side, or in Livingstone in Zambia. I spent several days in Victoria Falls at the end of an epic 4 week trip travelling overland from Cape Town. Victoria Falls town is small but it has everything you need – hotels, restaurants, bars and shops. I must add, there’s a fantastic local micro-brewery too! Do check out The River Brewing Co. when in town, you won’t be disappointed.

Seeing the falls up close is nothing short of spectacular, as you stroll along the pathways on the Zimbabwe side, each time you turn a corner a new viewpoint of the falls reveals itself. Be prepared to get wet, even from here! The falls are at their full flow between February to May, after the summer rains, but even in October when I visited it was an incredible sight.

There’s many activities you can partake in, depending on your adrenaline levels! It’s possible to bungee jump from the bridge that connects Zimbabwe and Zambia (not for me!) or take a microlight over the falls (from the Zambian side) or even a scenic helicopter flight.

Personally, I opted for “Devils Pool”, it was a real bucket list moment for me. I crossed over to Zambia where we took a boat across the top of the falls, passing by the iconic Royal Livingstone Hotel, and disembarked at Livingstone Island. After a short walking tour of the island, right at the top of the falls, we waded across the flowing water and climbed down into Devils Pool. To be able to literally sit in a pool at the edge of Victoria Falls was out of this world! Leaning over to look down through the spray to the flowing river below was a moment I will never forget.

To end our amazing adventure, we dined at another local icon – The Victoria Falls Hotel – if you’re not staying at the hotel, they do accept non-residents. Ensure to arrive early for dinner and enjoy a gin and tonic on the veranda, looking out over Victoria Falls as the sun sets. The perfect end to an incredible journey.