Beautiful Balkans
MONTENEGRO
Country number one was Montenegro. We stayed in Dobrota, a short walk from the city of Kotor - a beautiful medieval city. I climbed to the ‘top’ at Kotor Fortress which is part of the City Walls. The view was amazing and worth the climb. Stari Grad, the Old Town, was lovely and I enjoyed mooching around the quite side streets and little squares. Our Lady of the Rocks is one of two gorgeous islands in the Bay of Kotor. We took a boat from Perast and learnt about the history of the Roman Catholic church – the only building on the islet. The views of the Bay of Kotor were lovely.
Next was Budva – one of the best beach destinations in Montenegro. At Mogren beach I swam in the crystal-clear sea to cool down and then explored the Stari Grad (Old Town).
Travelling inland, our next stop was Lake Skadar National Park. It’s the largest lake in Southern Europe and lies on the border of Montenegro and Albania. We took a small boat and spent several hours travelling across the lake spotting wildlife. We also had the opportunity for a swim in the lake – a lovely way to cool off in the heat.
Crno Jezero (Black Lake) in Durmitor National Park is part of the Dinaric Alps. We stayed in Zabjlak and walked into the national park and then took a circular walk around the lake. The scenery was stunning and reminiscent of the Canadian Rockies.
SERBIA
We then went across the border into Serbia, country number two. Our focus here was the countryside. The open-air museum ‘Staro selo’ (Old Village) in Sirogojno portrays traditional village architecture and life in the Zlatibor region. We had a guided tour and then stayed overnight in little cottages dotted around the forest. It was such a unique experience, and one that myself, and my fellow travellers, all enjoyed. The next day we visited The Knitters Museum to find out more about this traditional craft which enabled local women to learn a new skill and earn an income alongside caring for their family.
Mecavnik, also known as Drvengrad, is a traditional village that Serbian film director Emir Kusturica built for his film ‘Life is a Mircale’ in 2003-2004. Today it’s a resort and we stayed overnight in the small wooden houses and enjoyed gorgeous views of the surrounding countryside. Nearby is the Sargan Eight Railway, Mokra Gora - famous for its figure of eight track – it climbs 300m in only 3km. It was a lovely way to spend a few hours and the scenery was spectacular.
BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
Country number three was Bosnia and Herzegovina. The first stop was the city of Sarajevo. I loved wandering around the Bascarsija, the heart of the Stari Grad (Old Town). It was founded by the Ottomans in the 15th century and is a melting pot of history and culture. We had a guided tour which included City Hall, the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, we saw the spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914 (one of the events that sparked WWI), the Scared Heart Cathedral and watched local crafts being produced. The next day I took the Sarajevo Cable Car up to Trebevic Mountain. The views of the city and surrounded countryside were fabulous and you can still see the remains of the bobsleigh and luge tracks from the 1984 Winter Olympics.
Enroute to Mostar we visited Armijska Ratna Komanda D-0, nicknamed Tito’s bunker. This secret subterranean nuclear command centre and protective bunker was built into the mountain as part of a Cold War defence system to house Yugoslav President Josip Broz Tito and the country's political leadership in the case of a nuclear attack. Today there are art installations in the rooms which you can visit. It was a fascinating insight into the past.
Next stop was Mostar and the highlight was Stari Most – Mostar Bridge. It’s probably the most iconic bridge in the country – it was first built in 1566 and was a jewel of Ottoman architecture, then it was destroyed in 1993 after being targeted by Croatians during the siege of Mostar in the Bosnia war. Finally, it was re-built in 2004 and connects the two sides of the city again. The views of the Neretva River and Stari Grad are gorgeous. The best view of the Bridge is from the grounds of Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque – itself worth a visit for its beautiful Islamic decor.
Our last place in Bosnia & Herzegovina was Trebinje. A small, quiet city in the south, close to the border with Croatia. Just outside the city was Tvrdos Monastery, a 15th-century Serbian Orthodox monastery producing award-winning wines and offering wine tasting in the cellars.
CROATIA
And finally, to end the trip we visited Croatia – country number four. I had been to Croatia before (two years ago) and visited both Split and Dubrovnik. On this trip we had a guided tour of the Old Town of Dubrovnik, known as ‘The Pearl of the Adriatic', to learn more about the history of the city. It was lovely to then enjoy time to wander around and explore the little side streets – it is possible to escape the crowds. We stayed on the Lapad peninsula, a short distance from the city, overlooking the Adriatic Sea. I swam in the sea, sunbathed and enjoyed very nice food and wine. A great end to a fabulous trip!
It’s a fascinating part of the world with a very complicated history. There’s been a lot of conflict, however, there’s also plenty of shared traditions and culture. The weather was hot and sunny, if anything, it was a bit too hot. I loved the food and drink – everything from cevapi, burek, baklava, to rakia, raspberry juice and delicious local wines. The locals were friendly and my tour guide and fellow travellers made it such a great experience.
I would happily share more about my trip if you are thinking of visiting any of these countries. I only really scratched the surface and there’s plenty more to see and do.
