The Dalmatian Coast
I stayed right in the heart of the Diocletian’s Palace in Split in Hotel Murum (a boutique, heritage hotel with just seven rooms), a gorgeous old building just two minutes from Peristil. The room was lovely and looked out onto a courtyard, there was a delicious breakfast and all the staff were very friendly and helpful including recommending (and also booking) local restaurants for dinner.
Before arriving I had booked tickets for a walking tour of Split. We met by the Grgur Ninski statue, just outside the Golden Gate (one of the entrances to Diocletian’s Palace) and spent a very enjoyable and interesting two hours learning all about the history of the Palace.
After the tour, it was great to explore the Palace some more by wandering around (and getting lost). It’s a UNESCO world heritage site and is very much lived in. I loved the combination of history and heritage alongside normal day to day life. I visited the cathedral of St Domnius, one of the best preserved ancient Roman buildings, originally built as a mausoleum for Diocletian. Peristyle (Peristil) is the ‘main square’ of the Palace and was packed with visitors both day and night. It was very atmospheric to sit in the square and listen to live music in the evenings.
The Riva (waterfront promenade) is a lovely part of the city to wander along or find a bench or a seat in one of the many bars or restaurants and enjoy people watching. The walls of Diocletian’s Palace are on one side and the harbour on the other.
I walked up Marjan Hill to the Mestrovic Gallery, which showcases the work of well-known Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic. There are loads of fabulous pieces beautifully displayed. From there it’s a short drive to a great little café / bar (Vidilica) at the top of Marjan Hill with fabulous views. It was definitely worth the walk up the hill for the views across the city to the mountains behind and out to sea.
A few months before travelling I booked tickets on the Krilo ferry from Split to Dubrovnik. It cost about £30 per person and took about 4 hours. It stopped at islands all along the Dalmatian coast – Brac, Hvar, Korcula and Mljet before arriving into Dubrovnik. It was a great way to see the coastline of Croatia and some of the islands. There is a little takeaway café on the ferry where you can buy tea, coffee, drinks and snacks.
In Dubrovnik I stayed in the Hotel Excelsior which is a few minutes’ walk outside the Old Town through the Ploce Gate. It’s a historic villa built in 1913 and takes full advantage of gorgeous west-facing views of Dubrovnik’s Old Town and the Adriatic Sea. I loved sitting and watching all the boats going in and out of Dubrovnik Old Harbour and the light changing on the walls of the Old Town.
Up early (to beat the crowds and the heat), I walked the City Walls and Forts starting from Ploce Gate (in the east). It was a great way to get a sense of the city and the forts that were built all along. You get fabulous views all the way round. There are a few little cafes en route should you want a sit down and a rest and to enjoy the views.
Another UNESCO world heritage site, Dubrovnik Old Town is a great place to wander around. I walked the length of Placa (Stradun), the main street, with the Large Onofrio Fountain (a very unusual circular fountain built in 1438 with carved sculptures / faces delivering drinking water through their mouths) at the western end and the City Bell Tower at the eastern end.
St Ignatius of Loyola Church is at the top of a grand flight of stairs and has impressive frescoes displaying scenes from the life of St Ignatius. Rector’s Palace is another popular sight, a 15th century Gothic Renaissance palace and now home to the Cultural History Museum.
I really enjoyed escaping the crowds by exploring the back streets. There were lots of little cafes, bars and restaurants in the side streets off Placa which felt a bit more authentic and less touristy.
On a more serious note, I also visited the War Photo Limited, which offers an insight into the region’s turbulent past through photographs. Often shocking and disturbing, it was good to be reminded of the past and the struggles that many people have faced.
On my last full day, I took a boat trip to the island of Lokrum - a nature reserve about 10 minutes by boat from Dubrovnik old harbour. There’s lush forest and it’s quiet and peaceful (and cooler) compared to the city. It’s popular with locals as a place to enjoy nature, sunbath and swim in the crystal-clear sea. There are also a few restaurants and cafes on the island so it’s perfect for a half or full day trip.
I enjoyed lots of delicious food and wine during my holiday. The cuisine is a real mixture of difference influences from nearby countries. You’ll see lots of fish and seafood on the menus as well as pasta and risotto. My favourite (Croatian) wine that I discovered is posip, originally grown and produced on the island of Korcula, just along the Dalmatian coast.
It was very busy pretty much everywhere although it is possible to escape the crowds in some places (and it’s worth getting up early to get a head start before the majority of visitors arrive). I can totally understand why Croatia is so popular as it’s a beautiful country and I would definitely like to visit again and explore other areas.