A tale of the Taj Mahal, Rickshaws and Nassar Hussain
Home to the magnificent Taj Mahal, and popular with Indian and foreign tourists alike, it is one of India's truly unforgettable experiences. The Taj Mahal was commissioned by emperor Shah Jahan in 1631, to be built in the memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died on 17 June that year, while giving birth to their 14th child. The Taj Mahal was constructed using materials from all over India and Asia. It is believed over 1,000 elephants were used to transport building materials. It took the efforts of 22,000 labourers, painters, embroidery artists and stonecutters to shape the Taj Mahal, and cost about £70 billion to build in todays money. Some iconic buildings prove to be somewhat disappointing in the flesh. Underwhelming if you like. Not so the Taj Mahal. It exceeded every single expectation I may have had about it and then some. The intricacy of the work close up. Awesome. Spectacular. Stunning.
But back to Agra. By the time i visited Agra I had been backpacking around India for several weeks. I was becoming accustomed to unwanted attention. So when a cycle rickshaw driver started following me, it came as no surprise. I politely declined his services, however rickshaw drivers are nothing if not persistent, and instead of ignoring him, I decided to chat with him as I walked along, him cycling beside me. After all he was only trying to earn a living. “Where are you from madam? “ “England” “England? OOoh lovely jubbly madam. Nassar Hussain very good man. “ We chatted for a few more minutes and then he was off, to find a fare. The following day I was at the train station. (Indian train stations are a very reliable source of toilets, chai and tend to have very good Thalis too) Met with the usual throng of rickshaw drivers as I exited the building, one voice stood out from among the crowd. “Oh hello again madam, Nassar Hussain very good man! “ The other drivers all cheered in agreement.
For my remaining time in Agra, no matter where I was, or what time of day, I would hear shouts of “Nassar Hussain, very good man madam ” echoing around me as any and every cycle rickshaw whizzed by. But they never gave me any hassle or grief. Just a cheery "Nassar Hussain, very good man, madam" To this day it puts a smile on my face. India can be like that.
