'Benvenuto' to the beguiling islands of Ischia and Capri

Whilst the Italian islands of Sicily and Sardinia are fairly well known within the UK market, less well known are the two beautiful islands of Ischia and Capri. Both islands lie at the entrance to the bay of Naples, and both have a unique identity and history. (By the way, in Italian, the emphasis is either on the first or middle syllable, never at the end – so it’s CApri and not CaPRI and ‘ch’ is pronounced like a 'k' – so it’s pronounced Iskia ).

ISCHIA

The larger of the two is Ischia and it’s found to the north of the bay. Whilst the smaller island – Capri lies to the south, and of the two, is probably the better known. Ischia is known for its mineral-rich thermal waters. Hot springs bubble up at Maronti Beach, in the south. East, Roman ruins lie beneath the sea floor at Cartaromana Beach.

The beach has views of medieval Aragonese Castle, linked to Ischia by a stone bridge. It’s a sprawling and picturesque castle perched high on a rocky islet.

Over at La Mortella there are enchanting botanical gardens created over the course of 50 years by Russell Page and Lady Susana Walton, wife of the late English composer Sir William Walton. Nearby, the 18th-century Palazzo dell’Orologio houses the Sea Museum, devoted to Ischia’s fishing tradition.

On the calm south coast, car-free Sant’Angelo offers the drowsy delights of a cosy harbour, sunbathing cats, and bubbling thermal spas.

Ischia Porto and Ischia Ponte blend into one long graceful spread of pastel-coloured buildings where elegant restaurants, shops and boutiques make for enjoyable relaxed wanderings.

Eating is one of Ischia’s greatest pleasures, and whilst seafood is an obvious local speciality, the island is also famed for rabbit, bred on inland farms.

Ischia’s cuisine is full of authenticity, prepared with typical regional and island products. Pesce all’acqua pazza (Pesce is pronounced Peshe with a soft ‘sh’ sound) was originally, and in poorer times, prepared with leftovers of fish stuck on the hook and cooked with garlic chilli pepper and parsley. It’s now prepared with cuts of anchovies, sardines, and mackerel.

CAPRI

Capri’s beguiling beauty and hedonism have charmed an eclectic mix of glitterati and intelligentsia over the years. Although less ‘glitzy’ than Ischia, the island has long attracted European and Hollywood royalty. The rich and famous that have ventured over to enjoy the island’s charms include Charlie Chaplin, Laurence Olivier, Maria Callas, Elizabeth Taylor and more recently Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman.

But the island’s history goes back much further. Emperor Tiberius’ main residence, Villa Jovis, now in ruins, was a sumptuous pleasure palace that pandered to his exotic tastes. Indeed, from 22 AD Tiberius spent increasingly more time away from Rome in the southern region of Campania and Capri. Then in 26, he relocated to Capri indefinitely, leaving the ruling of the Roman Empire to the senators while he indulged in his vices.

If you have a good head for heights, take the stairway to Tiberius’ Leap – those who fell out of favour with the despotic Emperor did not return.

The colourful Giardini Augusto gardens rise in a series of terraces to a lookout point with stunning views of Isole Faraglioni (the ‘gl’ when together in Italian, is pronounced ‘li’; the ‘g’ is not totally silent, but makes a sound at the back of the mouth). The island consists of three limestone stacks that rise out of the sea. The rocks have each been given a name: the first, still attached to the land, is called Stella, the second, separated from the first block by a stretch of sea; Faraglione di Mezzo and the third, Faraglione di Fuori or Scopolo, meaning the head or promontory stretching into the sea.

Capri’s most celebrated attraction is the Grotta Azzura (Blue Cave). This ancient sea cave is illuminated by an eerie blue light. Take a rowing boat from Marina Grande and view the cave at midday to get the best effect of the eerie blue light.

To reach Capri’s highest peak, the Seggiovia del Monte chair lift whisks you to the top in a tranquil twelve minutes.

WHEN & HOW TO VISIT

Either island can be visited on its own, together, or as part of a multi-centre trip that includes Sorrento or Positano on the beautiful Amalfi coast. The best times to visit are between May and September – August can be particularly hot and busy, particularly with Italian tourists, who all usually take most of the month of August off work - 'Fiera Agosto'.

If you would like to explore Ischia, Capri and the Amalfi coast, call me on 01234 581066 or E-mail me on marco.williams@travelcounsellors.com