Kerala's Backwaters are truly one of the 10 paradises of the world.

Marco Williams on 06 January 2019
When I mention India to my clients, they usually tell me that their first thoughts are of the Taj Mahal, the hot bustle of Mumbai or Delhi, the Golden Temple of Amritsar or the Rose Palace of Rajasthan. The classic tour of India often includes many of these destinations and sights.

But in a country so vast, not surprisingly, it has numerous hidden gems, that many miss, and one of these is the ‘Backwaters of Kerala’. In fact, National Geographic's Traveller magazine listed Kerala in the 'Ten Paradises of the World' and one of the 50 "must-visit" places of a lifetime.

The state of Kerala is located in the extreme southwest of India. With a population of 30 million, its surface area is 38,900 km2 and its capital is Thiruvananthapuram (formerly Trivandrum).

I had the pleasure of visiting Kerala a few years ago, and the pace of life on the backwaters takes a welcome break from the hectic life in the cities. Indeed, a large part of Kerala’s considerable charm lies in the ‘Backwaters’, a network of canals that lead off Lake Vembanad. Bestowed with a pleasant and relatively stable climate throughout the year, Kerala is a tropical land, with a lush green landscape, and diverse wildlife, with houses and villages lining the backwaters, making a journey along these waterways seem like a journey through another world.

There are two rainy seasons. The main southwest monsoon arrives in June and lasts until August, bringing short, heavy downpours. Southern Kerala is also affected by the northeast monsoon, which lasts from October to early December. But despite its frequency, don’t let the rain put you off. The monsoons might bring with them an increase in humidity, but they also inject life into Kerala’s lush, green wildernesses and vast plantations.

In the winter months between December and February, the climate is perfect for visiting Kerala’s long coastline. Temperatures average around 30°C, and the weather can be relied upon for hot, sunny days – perfect for the pristine beaches in the south, particularly around Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum).

The winter months are considered to be the most popular time for visitors, so do expect prices to be slightly more expensive. With plenty of tranquil undisturbed landscapes, however, there is always somewhere to escape to in Kerala.

Although the term 'backwater' is more commonly used in a negative sense in English, in Kerala it could easily be used as a synonym for a tranquil tropical paradise. Stretching across the state, the unique backwaters are composed of a web of lagoons, canals, and lakes which run parallel to the Malabar coast. Estimated to cumulatively cover around 900kms, these waterways have long been used as a transport network for agriculture, fishing, and the scattered rural communities which continue to reside at the water's edge. A cursory glance at any map of Kerala, or any train ride through it, will quickly reveal just how widespread and pivotal these wetlands are to the people, the produce, and the prosperity of the region.

Whether you spend time in one of the palm-shaded hotels or drift along in a rice boat, it is difficult not to be captivated by the local way of life. Children can be seen travelling to school in a narrow canoe, local ladies washing the pots at the side of the canal and fishermen netting their daily meal in the shallows, I even saw a cow, tethered to a coconut tree, on an island, surrounded by water.

Villages, temples and churches are built along the banks and the area is also a haven for wildlife with wading birds, kingfishers and fish eagles.

Traditional wooden rice boats were originally used to transport rice along Kerala’s lush green backwaters. Now, many have found a new lease of life quietly exploring timeless scenes of palms and paddies, temples and villages. Most people who visit the Kerala backwaters hire a traditional Kerala-style houseboat (called a kettuvallam). It's a quintessential Kerala experience and one of the most tranquil and relaxing things you can do in India. Freshly cooked Indian food and chilled beer make the experience even more enjoyable.

You can either go on a day trip or stay overnight on the boat. A trip on a houseboat can also be combined with staying at a resort, or hotel, along the backwaters. Resorts and luxury hotels commonly have their own houseboats and offer overnight and sunset cruises.

Kerala and its backwaters can easily be integrated into a longer itinerary that includes, Fort Cochin, a beach destination, tea plantations and spice plantations. If you’re interested in seeing more of this incredible land, then give me a call: 01234 581066 or E-mail me at marco.williams@travelcounsellors.com