17 February 2025

Ever since the first time I travelled around the world when I was 19, I’d always wondered what exploring Mexico would be like. A part of the world full of ancient lands, tribes, jungle, ruins and intrigue which I knew one day I’d have to go to. Having put together many a trip for my wonderful customers, I finally decided it was time. Time to attempt a chilled-out beach holiday on a delicious Caribbean-esq beach under the heat of the sun which we would not be getting in the UK in January … It was decided; 10 nights, Playa del Carmen for its proximity to places we wanted to visit and of course the beach. After a somewhat ropey start with motorway delays, flight delays, racing through the layover and a huge delay due to unforeseen snow in Atlanta, we finally made it! What a fantastic mix of down time (our version of this means hitting the gym, swimming kms in the sea and hiring bikes, by the way) and day trips. Our first little adventure out of the resort and away from Playa del Carmen was to the archaeological site of Chichen Itza where we had a wonderful guide to show us round and regale stories of events such as Pok Ta ‘Pok – the pre-Hispanic ball game which was probably more of a ceremonial ritual than a sport. Before I went there, I linked human sacrifice and head rolling with the Mayan people, more than anything else – but from the guide, we learned that actually, this wasn’t a common event. What we should really be remembering those times for is the astrology, the calendars and the mind blowing calculations which were made without todays technological advances. From here we drove down a dusty track, through the undergrowth to a concealed car park to then head on foot to the lockers and changing rooms before the shaman purified all us tourists through prayer and copal smoke before we entered the cenote. The bedrock of Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula is pockmarked with natural sinkholes, which twist downwards into the porous limestone bedrock. These cenotes (a word from the Mayan 'd'zonot', meaning 'sinkhole') vary in size from tiny openings to vast water-filled caves. By the way – they are amazingly cool (in more ways than one)! Stalactites and stalagmites galore, little fish which have never seen daylight, bats living in the rafters and then a tiny hole in the cave’s ceiling sending a shaft of light straight down onto us. There’s more life to these cenotes than you may think – or like to know. Silkworm spin their threads in the pitch black, hair-thin lines hanging down which are only seen with a torch – we definitely didn’t want those all over us! Blind, leggy spiders spotted by the trained eye of our guide freaked some people out, but their existence – along with the other creatures in these caves – is truly incredible. Have you heard of Cozumel? A dream destination for divers – particularly at the likes of Palancar and Columbia coral reefs. Although we are not divers, we did take our snorkels with us on the ferry across for our day trip to this dreamy destination just 45 minutes off the coast of Playa del Carmen. Armed with cycling helmets, sun cream, water and of course our snorkelling gear, we grabbed our hire bikes and headed east across the island, for the quieter (of visitors) yet wild (big waves) side of the island. It was no mean feat really – a 65km, almost flat, circular route into the wind for 70% of it (bizarrely) and in a balmy 28 °C we had the best day of exploring! Wildlife galore – the prettiest blue butterflies flapping along the verge, an abundance Cozumel Spiny Lizards in a full range of sizes sunbathing on the pathway, tiny turtle prints making their way along the untouched sands, the bottom-dwelling yellow stingray trudged beneath us and an array of fish-life took our breath away. Our next full day out was heading further south to the Mayan ruins of Tulum and its spectacular coastline. A much smaller settlement, more overgrown and in disrepair compared to Chichen Itza, but still a remarkable place with an engaging guide who was so enthusiastic and knowledgeable it was contagious. What a setting! Nearly 1000 years old, these ruins were once the central point for the civilisation of over 1500, one of the last cities built and inhabited by the Mayan people. Last but not least, we couldn’t go home without giving ourselves the opportunity to head out of a little boat, jump off said boat and snorkel our way back to shore through waving weeds and coral, multi-coloured fish, flapping (substantially sized) rays and the serene and peaceful sea turtles. Each year hundreds of green sea turtles make Akumal their home. While an endangered species, the local community supports conservation efforts to protect the species and there has been a steady increase in numbers in recent years.it was an absolute privilege and something which was quite overwhelming. I’ve always had quite a soft spot for these creatures and tend to pick up a carving or similar when I travel, but never had I thought I’d end up swimming amongst them while they completely ignored us and continued to feed on the sea floor. So many sites, sounds and snippets of information we had picked up throughout our time in Mexico. Although the weather was mixed to begin with, this didn’t dampen our desires to get out and explore, to see the magical country outside of the resort-lined beaches. Would I go back? Yes – with over 800 cenotes on the Yucatan Peninsula alone, I simply must head back one day to seek some more and go trudging through the jungle!

08 January 2024

We’ve all seen the pictures of Easter Island – the moai staring out to sea from a tiny speck of land in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. It’s a site that recently made the short list for the New 7 Wonders of the World, narrowly missing out on the final 7 by finishing, if reports are to be believed, 8th. This puts them high up the list on many people’s bucket lists. However, they are very isolated making them expensive to get to. So, are they worth it or is it an expense too far? There are only two realistic ways onto the island, known as Rapa Nui to the locals – flying from Santiago or flying from Tahiti, French Polynesia. Either way it is an expensive return flight or a pricey way when adding it into a RTW flight. And once on the island, you’ll need to rent a car or a bike to get around as there’s no public transport. Food is expensive and hostels only have basic cooking areas. However you look at it, a trip here won’t come cheap. But what about once you are there? Well, there are multiple sites to visit. Rano Raraku is known as the Nursery as it is the site of many unfinished moai. It is here that all moai on the island were created using stone from the quarry of the volcano. Many of the moai still here are partially buried and you can stand right next to them to get a sense of just how large a full size one would be. I didn’t even reach neck height on many of the statues. How the moai were moved from here to the various sites around the island is still an unknown. At the end of the site is the crater to one of the three volcanoes, all of which are complete with green lakes and stunning views out over the ocean. Ahu Tongariki contains 15 moai in a row. An Ahu is a ceremonial platform, with a line of moai, and Ahu Tongariki is the largest one built. A tsunami damaged many of the moai but one of was fully restored to its old condition complete with top knot on its head. Anakena is a beautiful site with an Ahu of 7 moai, set against a backdrop of a white sandy beach and palm trees, whilst Ahu Akivi is the only site where the moai look out to see rather than inland. Rano Kau and the Orongo Ceremonial Village is home to the remaining another volcanic craters and reed filled lake. From the top of the crater, you can see out to Birdman Island where islanders used to swim out to in the hope of being the first person to find an egg and be crowned birdman for the following year. These sites are genuine one in a million sites, the likes of which cannot be found anywhere else. There are times when the remoteness of the location makes you feel the millions of miles away from the mainland that you are. I have never been anywhere else where you can truly feel that isolated, yet be in such a uniquely cultured and historical place. Whilst there is an expense in getting to the island, if you can make it there, it will be an experience you never forget.

28 June 2023

When my friend suggested we took an organised group tour to head around Italy, I wondered what had become of my independent travel days – surely they’re just for old people?! After putting together some suggestions as to how I would ‘normally’ visit a European destination, I quickly realised that I was being swayed towards some of the trips (which I had also seen my Travel Counsellor, Melissa, posting) with a company called Travelsphere. Wow – what an offering they had! We chatted; I was sold - -and well, it turns out there was more flexibility in the days than I had thought there would be and I actually think we managed to cover more ground and experience more of the vibrant culture and local (delicious) cuisine than we ever could have on our own. There were 22 in our group – all of which were like-minded, active and entertaining individuals (there wasn’t even that one person that you usually expect …!), so herding us for the 2 weeks must have been quite a full-on job, which was artfully conducted by our Italian-born host and guide, Roberta. Although most of our evening meals were not included, we ended up eating all together quite a lot because we just got on so well and were comparing notes (and our memories) on what we had learnt each day. This then morphed itself into a daily quiz – which Roberta led and one team was to be crowned champion on the last day … (I was not to be crowned)! St Mark’s Square will never disappoint; despite the extravagance, the coffee and cake was well worth it as we sat people watching after our explorations around Venice. Not many people head towards Bologna when they visit Italy, but I would definitely recommend it … our delicious reward for walking Piazza Maggiore and our little tour via Santo Stefano was for some incredible gelato – a definite must. Although I had been to Pisa before, it was many moons ago and I was looking forward to revisiting the Cathedral. It is one of the most impressive Cathedrals you will see in Italy and I knew just where to snap the best photo; from the Baptistry! We had some time on our own to explore, which was nice, so we got ticketed up for each of the Leaning Tower and the Cathedral then made a be-line for the most delectable-looking shellfish pasta in a local café just out near the gates. Florence has my heart; the stunning Uffizi gallery is breathtaking (even if you’re not that into art) and not to mention the opera festival we just so happened to have been in town for! I had never seen opera in person, and to say there was not a dry eye in the house would not be a lie. The emotive power behind every scene is just mind-blowing. Onwards now to what some would deem the highlight; Rome. It is an extremely busy city and I was glad to be escorted from one point to the next instead of waiting in hour-long queues for the local buses. Having said that, I do love a bit of free time – to wander the romantic streets, wend your way to the Spanish Steps and perch for a while just being mesmerized by the intricacies of the Trevi Fountain. I probably could have just sat there for hours but alas – dinner was calling and yet another culinary delight was on the horizon as we headed to Antico Falcone for a truly traditional, local meal. After a full-on guided tour of Montecassino Abbey and Pompeii (with the added advantage of having our very own archaeologist with us which brough everything to life even more), we made our way further south to the stunning Sorrento Peninsula where we had a bit of a naughty afternoon with Aperol Spritz in the sun! Those who visited Capri did say it was brilliant – so next time I may try that as a healthier option. Oh the Amalfi Coast; spoilt rotten by our sea-view hotel I was quite happy to take some time out to relax and reminisce on the tour so far. Our little corner of paradise right there – and even our own private beach to boot. The grand finale for this fabulous trip was getting to spend 3 nights in Sicily, a place I’d always wanted to visit as my Italian friends regularly visit and rave about it being a real foodie destination. Calabria, Messina, Taormina – we got to sample some local, mouthwatering cuisine and with incredible views whether it was over the sheer cliffs or across to Mount Etna. What a treat! To top the trip off completely, we booked on to join the Jeep adventure safari to get up close and personal – hiking along the old (and new) lava flows was out of this world. I am always a sucker for some volcanic landscape action – but this was absolutely phenomenal, and almost out of place as it’s not the entire island. Highly recommended. The 4-5* accommodation was exceptional throughout – locations and standards could not be faulted and we even booked the upgraded rooms on occasion just because we could. On the plane home, we were discussing how it felt as if we had been away for at least a month, that we felt empowered with knowledge on all things Italian – historically as well as culturally, and we were now well qualified to recommend what to eat (and drink), where and even at what times of year. Thank you Travelsphere and thank you Melissa for an incredible group trip. Italy – we will be back!

30 April 2020

AN UNFORGETTABLE ADVENTURE Just You Tour Manager Caroline Godfrey spent Christmas on an Antarctica cruise – here’s what she had to say about it. "Our group of 18 people flew out to Santiago. On arrival in Santiago we had a tour of the city and a Welcome Dinner in the evening when we started to get to know each other. The following day we took a flight to Punta Arenas where we toured the city and visited the second most visited cemetery in South America, which was fascinating, we also made a stop at an amazing viewpoint where we could see our ship in the distance. THE ADVENTURE BEGINS Our ship, The MS Roald Amundsen, was a hybrid powered ship and very modern. Passengers loved the onboard Science Centre with its microscopes, books and exhibits. The cabins were big, with a seating area (even the standard cabins) and the Explorer Lounge and Bar on deck 10 was a lovely place to relax. We spent a lot of time there as a group relaxing, playing games and chatting about the experiences of the day. What made the ship extra special was the knowledgeable expedition staff, who were always on hand to educate the guests. Every day was a different experience. As this is an Expedition the itinerary will depend on the weather conditions. One day you might be doing a landing and seeing penguins, another day you may be cruising through icebergs on the zodiac. Whatever the day or the experience it will stay with you forever. AMAZING WILDLIFE We experienced our first landing at Yankee Harbour. In groups of around 15, we boarded the zodiac boats, our Expedition Group was called ‘The Cape Petrels’ after a type of bird. At Yankee Harbour, we saw gentoo penguins for the first time and we were given an in-depth briefing beforehand about how to land and the protocol around these magnificent animals. It was an incredible experience to see them in the wild just doing their own thing. It was funny to watch the male penguins show off in front of the females by bring stones back to their nests – the female penguins were completely unimpressed! We then headed to Brown Bluff and the scenery was stunning. We saw more gentoo penguins and some Adélie penguins too. We went out on the zodiacs and cruised beside the icebergs, where we saw seals and birds, it was the most stunning and overwhelming feeling. I found the whole experience of being completely at one with nature quite spiritual. I went with the expectation that the most exciting thing would be the wildlife, however for me, the most amazing moment was the ice cruising. It is hard to put into words just how amazing it was and the photos don’t come close to doing it justice. I had to pinch myself the first time I saw them! After dinner one night, we sailed alongside the longest iceberg in the world – it was 159km long! EVEN MORE INCREDIBLE EXPERIENCES We then headed to Damoy Point, where some of the group decided to do the optional snowshoeing experience. It was snowing as we did it and although it was tiring, it was completely worth it. One to tick off the bucket list! Some of the group camped out that evening and loved it. There was also an opportunity to take a dip in the icy cold water. Three of the group decided to give it a go and they received a certificate afterwards – it was something they will never forget! The excitement of actually being in Antarctica was magical and everyone said it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Whilst cruising we saw several humpback and minke whales and we even got a visit from Father Christmas on Christmas Eve! My advice? Take the plunge and just do it! You’re never on your own, unless you want to be of course. You’ll end up with lots of new friends and will create memories with a group of like-minded people. Travelling is about sharing!" CAROLINE’S TOP TIPS • Make sure you take plenty of indoor clothing and not just outdoor clothing • Do a little bit of research before you go • Eagerly anticipate it – it will be everything you imagine and more

30 April 2020

It wasn't our first time experiencing a cruise and would no doubt not be the last, however it was the first time we had departed from Southampton to sail so close to the Needles at the western tip of the Isle of Wight. We were on our for a few days at sea to reach the Spanish port of Almeria and boy was it nice to set foot on land again! A week had already passed since being in UK waters and what a different view we had - Malta was visible from one library window and Sicily the other. We were approaching the Greek port town of Gythion in the southern Peloponessos. Such wonderful fish restaurants and some great ouzeries here apparently - we just had a nice mooch around then headed to the most important and interesting place to visit in the vicinity - Diros Caves. This underground system of waterways ifs fascinating to explore by boat; who knew there was an underground lake here? It was then time to take the ships tender back to our floating hotel for our evening meal. Waking up in Pireaus (the main port of Athens) was quite phenomenal and we had an exciting day ahead, starting with the Acropolis Museum (top tip - definitely book tickets online beforehand to avoid long queues).We hear bad press on Lord Elgin, wander the Evzones outside the tomb of the Unknown Soldier then back through the National Gardens with time for some yummy gelato as our reward before returning to the ship. Unfortunately upon reaching Mytilene it was too windy to make the it to land meaning we had an impromptu sea day and had to entertain ourselves onboard. Luckily there is always so much to do, however we chose to relax with a jigsaw in the spacious library whilst sailing through the Sea of Marmaris and past Gallipoli. We will look forward to seeing it in day light next week though! When we were approaching Istanbul, the wind was so strong that we ended up being late into port and I must admit it was a little bit of precarious entrance to docking ... Finally secured, we made our way to Topaki Palace; a museum subject to more colourful stories than most of the world's museums put together. Onward to the famous Hagia Sophia which is the former Greek Orthodox Christian cathedral ... later an Ottoman mosque ... and now a museum. Quite the history! The Blue Mosque, the Cisterns, the Hippodrome, Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar were all explored - you could spend an age here. We were to depart at 9pm which made for a magical evening with grandstand view of the lights and sights of the city. At Bourgas we enjoyed an hour or so exploring shops, cafes and churches throughout the town then we were on to Yalta which we absolutely loved. This town is very much 'St Petersburg of the Sea' but with the addition of a stunning mountainous backdrop. We visited the cathedral and market - which was a bit of an eye opener selling kittens in birdcages amongst other animals ... We watched a boxing match which was taking place along the front, amongst folk who were calmly playing a game of chess on the sea wall, not far from the spot from which the Russian Royal family escaped the Revolution. Oh now, Odessa and what a beautiful city this is. In fact, the dock area appears to be the in place for locals to see and be seen, in amongst the upmarket shops and hotels. We opened our curtains to the view of the Potemkin Steps, setting us up famously for a day of exploration beginning at the cathedral. An incredible building built in 1804 with immense history as you can no doubt imagine. The whole cathedral area is wonderful; with high class shops, craft markets and the Boulevards, leading to infamous Mother in Law's Bridge which is covered in padlocks symbolising loves who want to lock their hearts together forever. Quite aptly, we were followed onto the bridge by a bridal party! After lunch onboard again, we had a full afternoon in the town, wandering Shevshenko Park and the monument of the Unknown Sailor, also complete with bridal parties galore. For the absolute contrast, we arrived next in Constanta to be greeted with museum doors closing on us for the Mosaic Museum (we did finally gain entrance) and a wonderfully ornate casino building near the lighthouse on the front. Our cruise route took us back round to Istanbul and Dardanelles in the daylight which was great. Our intention was to rise early for the Istanbul sail through but were woken by a tattoo on the ships horn as we sailed under the Bosphorus Bridge – scattering boats between Asia and the Golden Horn; a larger version of Venice, perhaps. Samos is one of the greenest islands in the Aegean sea. It is the birthplace of Gods, philosophers, mathematicians, historians and many personalities, which shaped our current way of being. This is all a little ironic given the pantomime of a performance we watched as a local ferry appeared to leave several cars behind on the quayside as it departed 30 minutes earlier than advertised! We had a lovely little explore of the town; wandered past the shops, churches and parks then enjoyed local ice cream as our reward. We were then to depart and make our way across the beautiful Mediterranean Sea to Malta, where we arrived so early I was fortunate enough to catch a picture of the sunrise over Valletta. Like most of Malta, Valletta has been strongly influenced by a variety of cultures and nationalities. Most significant was the impact of the Knights from the Order of St John who were given ownership of the city in 1530. The British also had a significant impact, one that can still be seen today. We enjoyed our visit to the cathedral and saw the palace and gardens from outside. Passing the stray-cat feeding stations we then went up to the battery – at Upper Barrakka Gardens you can enjoy fabulous views across the harbour and if you time it right, be there for the midday gun salute; the ‘Saluting Battery’. Perhaps best enjoyed with an ice cream! We then found ourselves heading towards our final stop on this magnificent cruise, all too quickly 26 days were nearly over. Despite appearances on approaching from the sea, Alicante was extremely pleasant. We managed to pick up a few holiday gifts and were quite surprised at such delightful palm lined streets and blue-flag beaches which this town offers so close by. Why on earth you’d want to go to Benidorm over staying here, goodness only knows!

27 April 2020

Having recently returned from Cuba, we can say there is a lot more that the country can offer other than the glorious sandy beaches and antique cars. The streets of the cities are vibrant and colourful with unique architecture. Venturing out of the cities, we experienced some amazing scenery – in Trinidad we walked in a tropical rainforest with waterfalls and lakes to swim in; we did a horse-riding tour in the valleys of Viñales, walked to some pretty amazing view points and experienced live music; visited coffee and tobacco plantations and had the chance to talk to local people who gave us some real-life accounts of what it is like to live in Cuba. The whole experience of travelling around Cuba was pretty unique – we would definitely suggest researching locations and transport in advance. A lot of people we met during our trip to Cuba had arrived in the country without accommodation, or transport arranged – although from conversations it seemed that it is fairly easy to find accommodation on the day, that didn’t seem to be the case with transport. We were really lucky to have all our transfers booked in advance and never had an issue getting to places. We would definitely recommend to other visitors to get booked in advance in advance saving time and worry. We stayed in Casas Particulares - these are like local guesthouses. The Cuban government allows residents to rent the spare rooms in their homes for extra income which allowed us to get a more local experience. Staying in the Casas was great – all of these offered more than we expected; the facilities were good, the hosts were friendly and genuinely put effort towards making our stay special. Cuban food and restaurants – although quite limited in terms of choice and variety, we found the food tasty. The Cuban menu comprises of meat mainly (fish, chicken, pork, beef), rice with beans and banana chips which is very traditional. There were slight variations to this with some restaurants offering dishes like lobster, pizza and pasta. We found eating out relatively cheap – we were purposely going out to less touristy places as prices at these were much lower for food without compromising the quality. Highlights of the trip Viñales – a green valley surrounded by mountains with fantastic scenery and loads of opportunities to explore on foot. Viñales is popular for its tobacco farms, sugar plantations, cigar making and rum production, which we experienced first-hand on a day long horse-riding tour. Trinidad – a picturesque colonial town that somehow feels frozen in time. Its streets are lined with cobbles and full of life. Unlike Havana, which seems a lot more advanced compared to Viñales and Trinidad, here the streets are full of horse carts, bicycles, tricycles with additional seats attached at the back, mopeds, Lada cars and other classical cars. The experience of walking around these streets is truly unique. Old Havana, which is the historic city centre, has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city is full of beautiful old architecture and classic cars. We visited the museum of revolution which was one of the highlights and also did the Buena Vista Social Club show which was truly memorable. Cayo Santa Maria – this is an island off Cuba's north central coast, linked to the mainland by just over 40 kilometres dry link. This was ideal for taking in the sun, generally not doing much and enjoying the sparkling blue water. To explore Cuban culture, we would recommend going outside the resort as this was a planned tourist development where employees were bused in. If you are looking for a stress-free tropical break, this place would be ideal though. General comments – Cuba was very safe to travel around and even at night we felt safe walking around. It is fairly easy to get money from money exchange bureaus, however, make sure you have your passport with you. We purchased internet cards in Viñales which should have lasted us for our stay in Viñales and Trinidad, however connectivity was pretty much non-existent, so we stopped trying at the end. Havana and the resort were good for internet connectivity. Again, you need your passport to purchase an internet card. Essentially, everywhere you go, it is advisable to have your passport or another form of ID just in case. Lastly, having water, hand sanitiser and wipes at any one time when out and about is not a bad idea, too. There is a lot of advice available online and loads of travel guides / blogs which are worth reading before your journey to Cuba. With all the above said, we would definitely visit again and explore different parts of the island!

14 April 2020

Egg-laying mammals, marsupials with a kick and birds in abundance: here’s why in Australasia, the wildlife truly is in a league of its own. A natural selection Australia’s rich array of (often weird and wonderful) wildlife makes it one of the most fascinating places you can ever hope to visit if you have a soft spot for nature. Is it any wonder that exploring these unique landscapes was a catalyst for Darwin’s theory of evolution via natural selection? Kangaroos and koalas are, of course, the wildlife A-list here. But there are countless other animals in Oz that deserve attention, too. Here, we put the spotlight on a few of our favourite places to see Australian nature in all its unique glory. Roo's Company Gorgeous Kangaroo Island, a few hours from Adelaide, is the third-largest island in Australia – and a whopping one-third of its area is given over to nature reserves. That means you can meet a wealth of creatures great and small here. Of course, the island’s namesake is one of the major attractions. You can spot the local subspecies of kangaroos hopping around Flinders Chase National Park, but these bouncing beasts are far from the only stars worth chasing here. Stay patient and you might be rewarded with glimpses of spiky echidnas or bizarre duck-billed platypuses – two of the island’s shyer residents, and both unusual in being egg-laying mammals. Easier to spot are your friendly neighbourhood koalas, which number in the tens of thousands. More of a bird person? The pelicans and little penguins in Kingscote are waiting for you. However, our favourite Kangaroo Island wildlife adventure – and it’s up against some stiff competition – has to be hanging out with sea lions in Seal Bay. With the guidance of a ranger you can walk right through the midst of the colony. We enthusiastically give our seal of approval! Marine Magnificence Hop on a ferry in eastern Brisbane and you can be on North Stradbroke Island – or Straddie, as the locals call it – in just over an hour and a half. And why would you want to get there? Well, discovering the fascinating culture of the Quandamooka people, indigenous to the island, is one good reason. Hitting the miles of stunning beach is another. Or you might want to take advantage of the outstanding opportunities for bush walks and wildlife-watching trips. On Straddie, you’ve got a high chance of seeing kangaroos, koalas, wallabies, tortoises and kookaburras, as well as a rainbow of other bird species. And the action isn’t contained to the island - what’s going on in the water is every bit as exciting. Point Lookout offers the perfect place for watching humpback whales, which migrate through these eastern waters between May and early November. And to the west, in Moreton Bay, you can see rare dugong, as well as green, leatherback and hawksbill turtles. Are you a dolphin lover? You needn’t step off dry land to see your favourite animals up close, as they gather near to Amity Point’s jetties in the evenings. However, if you do like underwater adventures, the island is full of great scuba instructors who’ll be happy to introduce you to the local manta rays. Party with Penguins Phillip Island’s penguin parade is one of the best-loved day trips (or rather, night trips) from Melbourne. The aptly named little penguin is the world’s smallest penguin species. As the sun begins to set each evening, these adorable guys and gals begin their nightly journey up the sand on Phillip Island’s Summerland Beach. The vast crowds of penguins and their comical way of moving combine to make this seem one of the oddest spectacles in nature. But in fact, the penguins are just making their way home from work. After a day spent fishing at sea, there’s only one way to get back to their burrow inland: waddle. You’ll get a wonderful view of this incredibly cute parade from the seating area on the beach. New Zealand Means Nature While we’re on the subject of Southern Hemisphere nature, it would be remiss of us not to mention New Zealand. Though much more compact than its gigantic neighbour, this country manages to pack in more than its fair share of wildlife wonders too. You can find chubby, flightless kiwi birds in the wild in many different wooded areas here, such as stunning Rainbow Springs Nature Park in Roturua. In addition to kiwis, the country is home to many other charismatic species, many of them only found here. Being dazzled by the magical light of glow worms in atmospheric limestone caves in locations like Dunedin is a quintessential NZ experience. And jaw-droppingly huge gatherings of animals can be found in the open air, too. A vast royal albatross colony, also in Dunedin, gives you a rare chance to see these unique birds on land – they spend most of their lives at sea. Want to befriend a bottle-nose dolphin or come face-to-face with a fur seal? Well, in the Bay of Islands – as famous for its amazing wildlife as for its dreamlike beauty – you can see these creatures and many more in their natural habitat. In short, if you don’t leave New Zealand harbouring secret dreams of landing a job as a zoologist, you didn’t do it right.

14 April 2020

Now that staying home is the new going out, we’re looking for more ways to broaden our horizons, create memories and spend quality time together. We’re finding it’s a great opportunity to relive our past adventures (and whet our appetite for new ones) by cooking our favourite foods from around the world. Here’s a selection of our recommended foodie destinations, and cookbooks to match, until we can grab our passports and hop on a plane once again. 1. Spain's Basque Country; Spinach and goat’s cheese croquetas Northern Spain's Basque Country has a lot to be proud of: a dramatic coastline with sleepy fishing villages and some of the best waves in Europe, a lush mountainous interior unique to the country, and the two captivating cities of Bilbao, a cultural and architectural powerhouse, and San Sebastián, which is home to a dizzying number of Michelin-starred restaurants. This region packs bold flavours into its dishes, and you’ll often find large hunks of T-bone steak, grilled fish and sweet peppers on rather rustic menus, contrasted with lavish spreads of pintxos (small, tapas-style snacks). Make sure you call in at a sagardotegi (traditional cider house), where you fill your glass with local cider straight from the barrel, while tucking into plates of salt-cod omelettes. Yummy croquetas are a staple of any pintxos menu, and José Pizarro’s version from his book Basque: Spanish Recipes from San Sebastián and Beyond can be adapted to suit whatever you have in the fridge, such as ham or mushrooms (as long as you keep them suitably cheesey). 2. Iran; Iranian herb fritters Iran is both a treasure chest of ancient Persian history and a conflation of Eastern and Western cultures thanks to its central location on the Silk Road trade route. And that’s not to mention its varied landscapes of snow-capped mountains and vast deserts, as well as some of the most beautiful architecture on the planet, including the elegant turquoise-tiled domes of Imam Square, Ali Ibn Hamza Mausoleum’s glass-encrusted halls and Nasir al-Mulk Mosque’s mesmerising kaleidoscopic stained-glass windows. Middle Eastern cooking is a vegetarian’s playground: zingy salads, moreish dips and freshly baked bread all take centre stage on the dining table, and the Silk Road brought cuisine all across the world straight to the country’s doorstep, resulting in a surprising fusion of flavours for the modern plate. Yotam Ottolenghi’s Simple is a fantastic place to start for recreating dishes of the Middle East. 3. Lisbon; Portuguese custard tarts Lisbon’s terracotta-roofed houses, river views and narrow winding streets of trundling yellow trams, terrace bars and colourful murals, create a charming backdrop to Portugal’s excellent food scene. You’ll find everything from Michelin-starred fine dining to tiny patio restaurants serving small dishes to hip converted warehouses showcasing the latest food trends. Pasteis de nata tarts are icons of Lisbon - tourists and locals alike devour their buttery pastry and creamy custard fillings by the thousand every day. There’s plenty of debate around where the best in the city are found. Pastéis de Belém, with its beautiful tiles, frequently tops most tourist lists, but Rebecca Seal, in her book Lisbon, recommends Manteigaria, in the Chiado area. The bonus of this local hotspot is watching the masters craft the pastries behind the counter while you sip on an espresso. 4. Bangkok; Thai hot and sour soup Bangkok’s street-food scene is world famous, and any visitor to Thailand’s capital knows the first port of call should be to one of the city’s many bustling markets to fill their bellies ahead of a day of exploring glittering golden temples, air-conditioned mega malls and cool rooftop bars. Yaowarat, or Chinatown, was the first street-food market, and usually features high on any Bangkok to-do list for a delicious, and often bewildering, experience. You’ll come across favourites like pad thai, chicken satay and fiercely fiery soups, as well as a whole load of more unusual offerings like fried duck beaks, crispy ants and scorpion skewers. Once you’re back home, Leela Punyaratabandh’s cookbook, Bangkok, includes the city’s top eats for you to recreate in your own kitchen (minus the bugs). And the great thing about Thai cooking is that a lot of the ingredients can be replaced if you’re finding them tricky to source: try ginger instead of galangal and dried versions of the herbs instead of fresh. Or put in an order at an online supermarket and stock up. 5. Italy; handmade tagliatelle pasta Everyone has a favourite holiday memory from Italy, whether it’s sipping Aperol on a stately Venetian piazza, exploring Tuscany’s medieval hilltop towns, or paddling the glittering azure waters of Sardinia. But there’s one thing we can all agree on - it’s almost impossible to recreate that perfect plate of pasta from your trip in your own kitchen. Chef Evan Funke is looking to change that in his book American Sfoglino, using little more than a rolling pin and a select few ingredients. Expect step-by-step techniques for honing your sfoglia (pasta sheet) skills, as well as range of sauces and broths to bring your Italian noodles to life. 6. Ghana; lamb cutlets with spicy peanut sauce Ghana may currently be flying under your travel radar, but if this little West African country’s food is anything to go by, it should go straight to the top of your bucket list. As well as Portuguese influences and unique music style, hiplife - a combination of hip hop and Ghanaian culture; it has a stunning array of natural scenery, including golden-sand beaches and Kakum National Park. The park's canopy walkway floats 30 metres above the rainforest floor, which is home to forest elephants, leopards and over 600 species of butterfly. Ghanaian food is a relaxed affair - think fresh fish and seafood, hearty salads and spices that infuse every dish with flavour - well suited to home-cooked meals for the whole family. “For too long Africans have kept this incredible food a greedy secret", says Zoe Adjonyoh in her book Zoe's Ghana Kitchen, and her peanut stew recipe was one of the first she shared with Londoners from the tiny stall she set up in her front garden in 2010. Peanut sauce is a staple of Ghanian cooking and can be paired with any combination of meat, seafood or vegetable - plantains or yams should be your first port of call, though, for a truly authentic experience.

08 April 2020

A long weekend in Russia? Really, I hear you say. Yes, really! If you want beautiful cities, exquisite palaces and stunning art, then Russia really is the place to go. Yes, the visa is long winded and tedious, but once there, you’ll be glad you went through the hassle. Given said hassle, you need to think about how long you want to go for. I opted for a 5 day trip, mainly in St Petersburg but also with time in Moscow. St Petersburg is definitely a gentler introduction to Russia, with more English spoken and a more tourist friendly atmosphere. Taking into account a 4hr flight from London and a 2hr time difference, you have less than half a day on your first day. However, if you plan your trip for summer, then the long, light nights definitely are an advantage. Being July when we were there, it didn’t really get dark until gone 1am and then rose soon after. We spent most of the remainder of our first day exploring the centre of St Petersburg and finding our bearings. From the square outside the famous Hermitage art gallery, we wandered over the many bridges of St Petersburg, across to Vasileostrovskaya island, then on to Peter and Paul Fortress. Stopping here for dinner, we then crossed another bridge to the Church of our Saviour on Spilled Blood. Walking down to and along the famous Nevsky Prospekt Street, before heading back to our hotel to collapse in our beds. On our first full day, we headed down to St Isaac’s Cathedral, climbing the tower for bird’s eye views of the city. From up here, you get an idea of just how many canals and rivers there are and why the city is referred to as the “Venice of the North”. Then it was back to the intricate Church of our Saviour on Spilled Blood, but this time it was open and we were able to go inside. I can safely say that whilst I don’t know what I was expecting, I was not expecting that. The entire inside is made of mosaics. All the walls, the ceiling and even a large part of the floor. It was phenomenal. One of the best ways to see the city is from the canals and there are plenty of boat trips available to help with this - pick your boat carefully here. We had pre-booked tickets for the Mariinsky ballet which was to be at the Mariinsky theatre. It was a lovely cultural experience and one I would certainly recommend. Once the ballet had finished it was still light and only about 10.30pm so we went in search of dinner and a drink or two. Every night in summer at 1.30am, all the major bridges of St Petersburg are raised to let ships in and out and for some reason this seems to be a major tourist attraction with a party atmosphere by the river banks. Just ensure that you are on the right side of the bridges before they lift as they don’t go back down until 5.30am! The next day, we took a day trip to just outside the city and the amazing summer palace of St Peterhof. This was like nothing I’ve ever seen before. The amount of gold statues in the impressive fountains glittering in the sunlight should have made us realise there’d be more inside. The first room you come to is the ballroom and here the entire room is made of gold. Walls, ceilings, pillars, window frames; sensational! Sadly no photos are allowed. Many of the other rooms, whilst not quite as golden, were also a sight to behold. The Palace is a 30 min hydrofoil journey from the Hermitage and upon returning here, were somewhat disappointing that our timings did not allow us to enter on this occasion. The following day, it was time to see how good our ability was to understand Russian train tickets. We had booked the 1.30pm fast Sapsan train to Moscow, but the tickets were purely in Russian so there was always an element of doubt! Happily, we had the right train and we even, with a bit of guesswork, managed to find our reserved seats. The train ran to time, was clean and comfortable, much like many other longer distance trains in Europe. We reached top speeds of just over 200kmph and so made the 440 mile journey in a little over 3.5 hours. Once in Moscow it was the little issue of getting to our hotel using a metro system that had no English. Luckily, the metro stations are so extravagant you don’t mind stopping for an extra 5 minutes in order to match up symbols and find your station. Both cities have reliable, fast, safe metro systems with the only difference being the lack of English in Moscow. All lines are colour coded though so it’s only once on the platform and deciding which direction to catch a train that is becomes an issue! For us, the main attractions were Red Square and the Kremlin. For this reason, we knew that approximately 24 hours would be sufficient. On the first evening, we spent time seeing Red Square by night. My personal highlight was finally get up close to St Basil’s Cathedral with its multitude of colours and looking almost like a cake decoration. Being further south than St Petersburg, the sun set earlier around 11.00pm. With our final day in Russia, we headed down to the Kremlin avoiding the ridiculously long queues to the Lenin Mausoleum. Our first stop was to the Armoury – a very interesting museum with weapons, outfits, jewellery and much more including a display of Fabergé Eggs. The audio guide is highly recommended as it gives a much deeper insight into the displays. Once out of the Armoury, it was into the main part of the Kremlin – Cathedral Square. There are 3 separate churches within the Kremlin, each one different but beautiful. Assumption Cathedral was the burial site of the patriarchs, Archangel Cathedral was the site of many coronations whilst Annunciation Cathedral was used as an actual church. Finally, within the Kremlin were the Tsar Bell Tower and Bell. After all this walking we decided to head back into the Red Square and see the inside of St Basil’s. The church is actually 8 separate chapels all linked together, with St Basil’s being just one of them – the last one to be built. Downstairs is a museum whilst upstairs are the actual chapels. After a late lunch, we finished off our trip with a visit to the Contemporary History Museum. Charting more recent history than the majority of other displays we had seen, the only downside was the lack of English description. As we neared the end and hit WWII the museum got a lot more interesting but we had to rush a little as it was time to head to the airport. Our little sojourn in Russia, with its extravagant palaces and beautiful churches, had come to end and left us wanting much more.

08 April 2020

A couple of years ago, I took a road trip around the Emerald Isle. Along with my friend Jeanie, we hired a car from Dublin airport and spent a week touring the country. Luckily for us, we had amazing weather, mostly sunny with only a small amount of rain. We arrived late one evening and picked up our car, Mickey the Micra, and headed to our hostel in Dublin. The next morning, we jumped on a hop on, hop off bus to see the sights stopping at places such as the Guinness Factory and Trinity College. That afternoon, we took Mickey and headed south to Rosslare, a beach town in the south east corner of Ireland. Having found our little B&B, we dropped off our things before heading out to paddle in the sea! Luckily, there were more options for dinner – a whole variety of pubs to choose from. Standard dinner options in Ireland do revolve around pubs which tend to be more social places than just drinking establishments. The next morning and we were on the road again, heading along the green south, through the city of Cork and stopping at Blarney Castle. Here we had the obligatory photo op kissing the Blarney Stone, giving us the gift of the gab, but also explored the whole castle and the grounds. Our day finished in Killarney, staying at the lovely Peacock Farm Hotel, set up a hill away from the main town with a lovely view down to Killarney Lake and with peacocks on site. Day 4 was always going to be one of the most scenic. From Killarney, we drove around the Dingle Peninsula, taking in the views and stopping to admire the craggy cliffs, sandy beaches, green fields and blue seas. There are many ruins to stop and explore when not admiring the views including the Gallarus Oratory, an early Christian church. We could have spent so long there, the sun was shining and there are numerous viewpoints to stop at on the coastal road. However, we had other places to be, so once we’d done the loop, we headed north crossing the Shannon River on the Kilrush ferry and headed up the coast to the Burren to visit the Cliffs of Moher. These cliffs are usually shrouded in fog, but for us we had clear blue skies and perfect views. That evening, we spent the night in Doolin, a small town a few miles north of the cliffs. Doolin was to be the only place where we spent more than one night, as the next day we took a ferry over to the nearby Aran Islands. Although there are three islands, we were headed for the main islands, Inishmore. Once again we were greeted with immaculately green fields, blue skies, ruins and beautiful coastline. As we left Mickey on the mainland, we hired bicycles and cycled round the island. It was a beautiful day and not too many hills to deal with! With all that fresh air and exercise we were inevitably tired and Jeanie managed to leave her camera on the island in the toilets by the ferry terminal. After a long chat with the ferry company and many phone calls back and forth to Inishmore the camera was located and was set to be returned on the first ferry back the next morning. The next morning, we headed back to the docks in Doolin in order to pick up the camera, before moving on towards Northern Ireland. We made a brief stop en route at Knock, where there is a church popular with Roman Catholic pilgrims as it is claimed there was an apparition of the Virgin Mary back in the 1870’s. We carried on towards Northern Ireland, crossing the border at Londonderry/Derry. Neither Jeanie nor I were sure what to expect at the border but we practically missed it and the only reason we knew we were in the Northern part of the country was because the speed limits switched from kph to mph. With Mickey’s speedo in kph it made for some guesswork of speeds. We arrived in Portstewart on the Antrim coast that evening, with time to sit on the beach and watch the sunset. Day 7 was spent driving the spectacular Antrim Coast from Portstewart round to Belfast. Our main stopping point for the day was at the Giants Causeway. Legend says that Irish giant Fionn was arguing with Scottish giant Benandonner. The Scot crossed the causeway to see Fionn, but Fionn had disguised himself as a baby. Benandonner saw the size of the “baby” and was so terrified by its size he didn’t want to meet the father and fled back to Scotland ripping up the causeway as he went. This leads to the different height columns of rock seen today. We also stopped at the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, 20 m long and at a height of 30m above the rocks below. Although the rope bridge is perfectly safe, on a windy day it can feel a little precarious and so National Trust sell certificates stating that you crossed the bridge! We carried on along the Coast Road before arriving in Belfast in the early afternoon. Our final day in Ireland, we spent the morning in Belfast on a hop on hop off bus. The bus took us to all the major sites such as Stormont, the Titanic Quarter and the murals of both Shanklin Road and Crumlin Roads. We then took Mickey, headed back South across the border to the land of kph speed limits and back down to Dublin airport to leave the car and fly on to Edinburgh where we were spending a few days before heading home. Although it sounds like we spent a lot of time driving, it’s worth remembering that due to the size of Ireland, the journeys didn’t last that long so we were usually on the road for no more than a few hours leaving plenty of time to explore upon arrival. Dinner could be found a lot of the time in pubs, where the standard of food was pretty good and sometimes accompanied by live music or entertainment. With one week, we had enough time to complete a loop around the coast. With longer we could have explored inland as well, but any less time and we would have been very rushed. All in all a weeks’ road trip around Ireland is an amazing trip with stunning scenery and really friendly people.

06 April 2020

5 Reasons I Love Portugal! I just can't get enough of Portugal after having visited a handful of times in the last couple of years - and here are my highlights which are sure to tempt you to visit! 1. It’s at the helm of seafaring history During the Age of Discovery, from the 15th to the 17th centuries, Portuguese sailors were the first to discover and map the coasts of Africa, Canada, Asia and Brazil. Many of the country’s monuments were built in honour of both the period and homegrown explorers such as Vasco da Gama, who was the first European to reach India. Stand before Lisbon’s Monument to the Discoveries and you’ll be at the very spot that these voyages began. 2. Wherever you go, you’re surrounded by beauty No matter where your travels take you in Portugal, beauty surrounds you. Inland is the stunning Douro Valley, where terraced vineyards have been producing wine for more than 2,000 years. Further south, step into a landscape straight out of the pages of a fairy tale in Sintra, dotted with turreted castles and carpeted by forest. The real showstopper is the country’s dramatic coastline. When Vasco da Gama left the Belém district of Lisbon on his voyages of discovery, he didn’t know what he might find. Standing on the Atlantic cliffs at Cascais or Cabo da Roca, you’ll experience a similar sense of wonder. 3. Sensational cities boast Latin influences Portugal’s lively and vibrant cities are a joy to explore. You don’t have to look too closely to see that they take their influences more from South America than Europe. Cosmopolitan capital Lisbon sits on seven hills and tumbles down to the banks of the River Tagus. Admire the Manueline architecture of its Jerónimos Monastery, which symbolises the country’s power and wealth during the Age of Discovery. Second city Oporto boasts historic districts seemingly untouched by time and is famed for the production of port wine and numerous cellars hosting tastings – cheers! 4. There’s even more to see on its islands The Portuguese archipelagos of Madeira and the Azores lie to the west of the country and both offer a diverse range of attractions. Madeira is a living botanical garden, whose tropical climate and volcanic soil encourage almost anything to grow, hence its moniker ‘the floating garden’. On the largest of the nine islands of the Azores, São Miguel, breathtaking sights take many forms. On land, gaze at the incredible twin lakes, Sete Cidades, carved deep into a volcanic crater, and in the waters that surround you whale sightings are common. Due to the archipelago’s location, it’s a point of passage for more than a third of the world’s population of whales and dolphins throughout the year. 5. Delicious fresh ingredients are always on the menu Sardines plucked fresh from the sea, salt cod, crispy suckling pig and slow-cooked wild boar stew are the kind of rustic dishes found on the menu in Portugal. As you eat, clink glasses of Vinho Verde – a young, crisp unoaked wine usually consumed shortly after bottling. And if you’ve a sweet tooth, thank the monks of the Jerónimos Monastery, who are said to have invented pastéis de nata. These little custard tarts with a crispy, flaking pastry case and a sweet, creamy filling sprinkled with cinnamon really are heavenly.

03 April 2020

Thank you to my wonderful friend and customer Lesley, who has written an amusing a true account of such wonderful times in Mongolia, where he explored the central, southern and northern regions and were lucky enough to visit the local Naadam Festival in the village of Khatgal. And so we arrive at Lake Khosvgol, this incredible huge fresh water lake. Apparently it contains up to 2% of the worlds fresh water and is the second largest lake in Asia, the largest I assume is Lake Baikal which legend has it is joined underground to our Lake Khosvgol. Khatgal, at the tip of the Lake is our venue for Nadaam, the annual national festival which involves the three "manly" sports. Well girls are allowed to participate in two out of three, archery and horse racing, but wrestling still remains the domain of the men. The clothing for wrestling is unusual to say the least. A skimpy bolero type jacket which is open at the front tied with a string across an ample chest, open supposedly because in days gone by when the jackets were closed in front a woman (or two) competed and won. So now it is boobs on display just to be sure. So that is the top half, the bottom is a pair of speedo type trunks in matching colours and to finish this off a very fancy pair of leather boots. It could be almost porno but somehow it isn't, I guess because you check out the faces and realise you would not dare suggest such a thing to these large strong men. There are no weight restrictions, anyone can challenge anyone else. There will be three or four bouts going on at the same time with volunteers holding the pointed hats of the wrestlers and occasionally giving them a big whack on the bum if they are doing no more than hanging on. The winner breaks into a wonderful dance round the spirit flags looking rather like a bird getting ready to take off. For me the exciting thing is the horse racing. The races are run over anything up to 30kms, the jockeys are the youngest of boys and girls as the lighter the rider the better. Some jockeys are as young as 7 and no, they don't wear helmets and often have no more than a small horse blanket tied on the horse with string as a saddle. To our western eyes the horses look skinny and ill fed but if they can go full tilt for 30 kms then they must be OK. There are about five races over the two days, for one year olds, two year olds and so forth up to five year olds which is the most important race and all the spectators want to be as close to that winning horse as possible, it is deemed good luck for the dust (there is plenty) to get all over you and then when the horse is being walked slowly to cool down everyone rushes over to get some sweat from it and rubs it on their hair. Yes I did! The Nadaam festival is a sort of Mongolian version of a country fair. The dignitaries sit chattering in a tent proudly wearing all their medals, small kids roam wild, young boys and girls try their hand at popping the balloons with darts to win a bar of chocolate. Almost everyone has a horse attached to them, sometimes just with a tether draped over their arm, a bit like a handbag, sometimes they are lolling on horseback while watching the wrestling, sometimes they are trotting through the crowds and trying to control the rather spirited horses, toddlers under foot, grannies wandering around looking for grandpa, everyone in their very smartest deels and matching hats. In the brightest of colours, neon pink, bright turquoise, bright pale blue, a feast for the eyes. Couples in matching outfits. Fancy saddles on the horses. Behind the four wheel drives are horses tethered to trees with families picnicking around their hooves. Someone falls off a horse and the Mongolian method of treatment is to sit the unconscious rider up and give them a good shake! No stabilising the spine and neck here! But it seems to work! Well there is no hospital and no ambulance so it has to! Our lodging for these two nights is at an Eco lodge on the far banks of the Lake. It is our favourite so far. The peace and beauty of this place cannot be bettered. We are amongst the pine trees, wild flowers abound, the waves lapping at the shore and bleached driftwood forming sculptures on the beach, a yak or two in the garden along with the requisite horses and oh yes a full moon rising over the trees. Total magic. We have a bonfire that night around which we all sing silly songs although the Mongolians sing wonderfully tuneful folk songs which put our Hokey Kokey to shame. A brilliant last night.

30 October 2019

Hannah is a very good friend of mine and we have shared many an exhilarating adventure! This write up is of her exciting explorations with James along the Silk Road through Uzbekistan and then later on to Tajikistan. The Silk Road was a network of trade routes connecting the East and the West for 3000 years until the 18th century. It allowed goods to be bought and sold, especially the lucrative silk after which the route takes is name. China had a monopoly on silk but it was heavily desired in Europe so in return the West would sell horses, ivory, furs and jade to the Chinese. The overland Silk Road stretched from Xian to Istanbul, a distance of 4000 miles, however maritime routes included Indonesia, India, the Arabian Peninsula and ended in Venice. The route began to decline after Vasco de Gama discovered a route around the Cape of Good Hope as sea travel was faster. Due to the Silk Road, many cities flourished during this time, such as Xian (China), Kashgar (China), Bukhara (Uzbekistan) and Merv (Turkmenistan). UNESCO have now designated a large part of the route as a World Heritage Site. Why am I telling you this? Well, due to a large part of Central Asia opening up over the last few years, I am taking my first visit to the region. As it would take the average caravan 240 days to traverse the route, I am obviously not doing the full route. Instead, focusing on two countries in the region. Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. After arriving in Tashkent, our first priority was to head out! Many of the main streets were wide avenues but with not many cars on them, possibly because it was Sunday. After about 10 mins walking, we stumbled onto a square with a couple of statues of astronauts on it and we quickly realised this was the entrance to the Kosmonavtlar metro station. Tashkent metro is known to have stations in a similar vein to those in Moscow i.e. incredibly elaborate and photo worthy, but we wouldn’t be going down into the station just yet. We carried on to Amir Temur Square. Temur is widely regarded as one of the world’s greatest military leaders, especially in Uzbekistan where he was largely based and had his capital city. In the centre of the square is a large statue of the man himself, backed by the Soviet-style Hotel Uzbekistan. It really is something to behold, but what that something is we are not quite sure. It is a beige coloured, rounded building with bars in front of all the windows. We headed towards the train station. En route, we found a small restaurant where we stopped for lunch. They spoke no English, we spoke no Uzbek and basically no Russian but, thanks to a picture menu, we managed to order ourselves two dumpling soup dishes, bread and chai for lunch. This was also our first view of Uzbek bread. Usually circular in shape, every region has different bread made of different dough types, with different designs embedded into it. From here, we carried on to the Railway Museum, home to many old soviet locomotives which could be clambered on and into. By this point, it was time to investigate the metro stations. From the main Tashkent train station metro, we headed to Chorsu, home to the country’s most famous bazaar. Under a green domed roof, you can buy all sorts of food inside the market as well as other everyday essentials. Whilst returning to the hotel, we got off at Kosmonavtlar station, widely regarded as the best decorated metro station. Shades of blue and portraits of various astronauts kept us occupied for a while whilst we tried to identify them. The station also seemed to be a popular stop for tour groups and guides. Until about a year ago, you were not permitted to take photos on the metro or of the stations, but thanks to the current President’s mission to relax the country, clicking away is now perfectly allowed. And all of this costs the pair of us less than 25p per journey. Bargain! Two years ago when I first started planning for this trip, Khiva was very inaccessible. No train station, no bus station. The closest of each was located in Urgench, some 35km away. However, in those two years the train line has been extended to Khiva and a brand new station built along with a new train line across the desert to Bukhara, saving on a 7-8 hour bumpy taxi ride. The line is also in the process of being electrified for use by the high speed trains but for now we had to settle for old Soviet trains. By morning, we were in the middle of the desert – sand as far as we could see. It was another 3 hours until we arrived in Khiva, where conveniently the new station is only a short walk from the east gate of Ichon Kala – the name given to the walled inner city of Khiva and an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Inside are numerous medressa’s, Islamic schools now used as museums, and minarets. First; to the Islom-Hoja Minaret. At 57m tall, it is the highest minaret in Khiva, built only in 1910. To get to the top, we had to climb approximately 120 steps, up a spiral staircase where the steps were steep and uneven, to the top. From the small observation point at the top, we could see over the whole of Ichon Kala, down to the train station and so far to the south, we reckon it would have been Turkmenistan. Bukhara is often dubbed as Central Asia’s holiest city, with over 140 protected buildings, many of which have stood for centuries. The city used to consist of a network of canals and stone pools, where stagnant water meant that plague was a common problem. The majority of these have long since disappeared with just Lyabi Hauz remaining at the centre of the city. We arrived in Bukhara after the 6 hour train journey, the majority of which was through desert as we skirted around the Turkmenistan border. Numerous Medressa’s and a small bazaar to explore, we started by visiting Lyabi Hauz, which now is surrounded on three sides by cafes and also has plastic camels in tribute to the caravans that used to plough the Silk Road. The next was spectacular, with the Mir-i-Arab Medessa and Kalon Minaret which was built in 1127. When Chinggis Khan was ransacking his way through the region, it is said he was so dumbfounded by the beauty of the minaret that he spared it from being destroyed. For our final wander, we headed to the infamous Ark, built around the 5th century, which is now largely a museum, with a series of exhibits, as well as a mosque. Simply stunning and the perfect place to end an incredible journey in Central Asia.

21 October 2019

It’s pitch black outside, making the effort to actually extricate one’s body from the sleeping bag one of the biggest challenges of the day. Very much still half asleep, it genuinely feels an impossible thought to place one foot in front of the other, continuously, until the next valid resting destination. With just 6km until the next village and a potential ‘cafe con leche‘ (coffee with milk) stop driving us ever onwards, it’s time for a deep breath, poles outstretched - and Ultreïa (go forth with courage)! Sometimes it’s simply impossible to have managed to wash and then actually dry ones clothes the previous night. The cool evenings are not conducive to laundry drying, which inevitably means the following day your pack becomes somewhat of a clothesline... strategically placed socks, leggings and undies will dry quickly once the sun rises, but this does require a degree of indifference to the fact that you are indeed showing your smalls to the world. I’ve seen Y-fronts on hedges, socks strapped to walking poles and sports bras on backpacks - there is no shame: this is The Way. The glorious site of another village looming! This promises much needed shade, cafe con leche, perhaps a delicious pastry as a cheeky little reward for reaching that point as well as a unique sello (stamp) in your pilgrims passport. The half crumbling, terracotta-roofed building with rustic doors hold so many memories; have seen so many things, of that I am certain. Locals; with their weathered, smiling faces, linger in the streets, chatting in an unintelligible regional language - well, to those with an ignorant ear anyway. Everyone so keen to wish a peregrino ‘buen camino’ (good walking) as we pass on by, perhaps boosting each tiny village economy by a euro or two throughout the day. Storks settle down in their humongous nests atop the ancient bell towers throughout each village along The Way. In the town square a fountain spouts a deliciously refreshing splash as the water hits the hot stone paved floor, reminding and tempting you to refill your bottle and rehydrate your body. Something which is critical to staying healthy for these weeks of walking westwards whilst the sun beats down relentlessly on the left hand side of your body ... Bizarrely, food is of very little importance throughout the day. It’s almost like our bodies already have enough reserves to burn off without the requirement for extra calories! Having said this, as soon as I stop walking I am ravenous immediately; as if I haven’t actually eaten for a week. Sadly, as aforementioned, the food along the Camino Frances is proving to be somewhat of a disappointment, with the staple food group being carbohydrates. Primarily white bread and patatas (chips). Alongside this you may find an exciting inclusion of ensalada mixta (mixed salad) but other than that, pretty much anything of the deep fried variety. The end of the walking day is nigh as we slope in to the albergue booked for this evening. Having assessed each toilet stop, food source and surface under foot along The Way, I am now also a connoisseur of rating establishments based on their WC amenities; basically the fundamentals of soap, toilet paper, a toilet seat and hand towels. Including the albergues, I am quite appalled by the lack of soap throughout and also the lack of use of the soap which is provided! After a concerted effort over the weeks, I can tell you that the best tortilla (Spanish omelette) is to be found at Meson de la Tortilla in Pamplona and that when considering the surface you walk on; if you have any possible means to avoid walking on tarmac, I’d strongly suggest you take it - even if it’s scuffing along the edge of the verge until the track changes course to grit and sand. The balls of your feet will thank you dearly! That really sums up a typical day on Camino Frances, from dawn until dusk. If there are 4 things I’d recommend someone to take with them along The Way it’d be to make sure they have good earplugs (eg silicone flexible ones), carry at least one pole (great support for balance as well as knees on descents and hauling yourself up the hills!), have a multi USB adaptor (as generally there are limited plug outlets so this means more than just one lead can be plugged in simultaneously) and to have items in either colour coded dry bags or clear / freezer bags makes life so much easier for locating items! Something you might fancy experiencing? Then what are you waiting for? May you learn Spanish fast, And Spaniards speak slow. May the storm clouds pass, For a buen Camino!

21 October 2019

Finally by 4pm and after 32km of undulating track, sun bleached fields and a multitude of weather conditions, we reach the much longed for village where we hope to find beds available for the night. Oh what a welcome you can (generally) expect - a glass of water, a lucky dip in the sweeties, Camino credentials stamped, a nice warm smile and (dorm) room key produced. Exhausted, weary, aching and parched we really just need two things: to sit down - and drink a delicious Spanish ‘caña’ (beer). Despite the desire to ban such liquid gold from one’s diet in order to maximise health benefits of walking such distances, it truly is the reward straight from the gods which one simply cannot deprive oneself of. Fact. 7kg pack grounded for the day. Bunk bed located. Hot shower sourced. Clothes wash done and hanging out amongst the rows of other freshly washed linens in the airless courtyard. Next; time to locate a decidedly delightful eating establishment preferably without having to walk too many more steps and ideally to have the offering inclusive of vegetables - a food type which is conspicuous by its absence along The Way. This, is the routine of the Camino Frances. Having spoken with a large number of people along The Way, with varying backgrounds and from a plethora of homelands, I now feel qualified to state that each and every person walking these 790+km have their own, very unique reasons for being here. Whether it be a longing for closure of something, time to reflect on the life of someone or simply trying to ‘figure it all out’; the honesty and openness with which everyone chats is truly a beautiful thing. I have never felt so comfortable to ‘just be me’. With all the best intentions for a small, quick meal, snappy chat and early bedtime; sometimes it’s just inevitable that one gets carried away with beverage in hand and stories a flowing ... suddenly it’s one minute to curfew and an imminent dash is required in order to not be locked out for the night. Most ‘albergue‘s’ (hostels) lock their doors at 10pm - presumably because most ‘peregrinos’ (pilgrims) are well tucked up by then as they’ll be up at the crack of dawn to begin their day. More often than not, this is entirely my preference as sleep is one of my top 3 priorities in life, however every now and then it seems I can be led astray by inspirational conversation, life lesson sharing and immense laughter which I would never want to jeopardise by going to bed too early. We can sleep when we’re dead, right? The phrase ‘things that go bump in the night’ has entirely been redeveloped on this journey! Snorting, sneezing, rustling, rummaging, farting and faffing; these are just some thoughts of what these aforementioned noises actually are and which you might well hear throughout the night if you were unfortunate enough to not own a pair of earplugs. By going to bed by 9pm, you have the upmost advantage towards a solid, well deserved sleep through to 6am ... when alarm clocks explode, rustling begins and the switches are flipped to startle you with such bright light spilling out from above the bunks. And so on to another day of walking in this incredible part of the world, on a journey like no other.

15 November 2018

Our Heartfelt Thanks to Melissa What a fantastic holiday! And we would never have found it without Melissa. All we knew was we wanted to go to the Canary Islands in August. We didn’t even know which of the islands to go to. Initially, we just asked Melissa to help us find a villa suitable for two adults in need of a break, plus three water-mad teenagers and their three friends. Not only did she find us the most fabulous accommodation, she looked after absolutely everything from booking flights and transfers to checking us in online and coming round with our boarding passes. First Impressions Having never been there before, we really didn’t know what to expect. First of all, Arrecife airport is right on the coast and, looking out of the plane window, it honestly feels as though you are about to land in the sea. One word of warning, if you are looking for pretty scenery and luxuriant, vibrant green foliage, Lanzarote is not the place. The landscape is dramatic and striking – but far more lunar than lush. Bursts of palm trees, cactus and aloe vera stand out against a sea of black, volcanic soil and a backdrop of dormant volcanoes (although you can still feel the intense heat below the surface at Timanfaya National Park). Lanzarote is also very breezy, which makes the temperature seem much more comfortable but beware of sunburn – it really is hotter than you think. Las Caletas Village, Costa Teguise The best holiday accommodation ever! Villa Coral at Las Caletas Village on the outskirts of Costa Teguise is about 15 minutes from the airport so transfers were quick and easy. We asked for somewhere with a pool, close to a waterpark and with access to a beach and watersports. This villa was absolutely spot on. It was very luxurious and, unlike many rental villas, had plenty of space, comfy sofas, quality loungers, crockery and cutlery for a party of 8. The kitchen was very well equipped for a large group and there was even a small utility room with washing machine. They had thought of everything, including a barbecue and all the tools. Even the washing powder was provided, along with a welcome pack of wine, water and fruit. Private Pool The best thing about this villa, without a doubt, was the private pool in the small but very well-planned garden. Perfect for a group of boisterous teenagers even if the water was a bit chilly. Pool floats, toys, and even a small inflatable dinghy had been left, presumably by other holidaymakers. As grass doesn’t grow in Lanzarote (much like our own grass this summer), the garden was covered in astroturf. It might sound a bit odd but we loved it. It looked lush and green and was soft on your feet. We are seriously thinking about putting it in our own garden. Costa Teguise The villa was around a 30-minute walk from the centre of town. There is a lovely seaside walk along a large part of the coast along here that takes you past a string of beaches. It’s paved and perfect for walking and cycling. So much nicer than walking along the main road, although you miss out a few shops along the way. The town of Costa Teguise is lovely, centred around the Pueblo Marinero, a walled area of shops, cafes, bars and restaurants. Most open from lunchtime onwards but the whole place really comes alive as the sun goes down, with market stalls and street sellers, music and food everywhere you look. Make sure you explore all the little side streets, inside and beyond the Pueblo Marinero. We discovered a lovely little cake shop (called ‘The Cake Shop’) that did delicious breakfasts and brunches – and the best cafe con leche of the holiday. Local Specialities Something that you see all over Lanzarote is the aloe vera plant and the island produces a whole range of aloe products, with specialist shops dotted all over. We bought various lotions and potions to try and keep our suntans going for a bit longer. They seem to be doing a good job – you can still tell that we’ve been away and it’s mid-September. Another local speciality is cactus jam. Hmmm. We bought some at Teguise market and it looked lovely but it didn’t really taste of anything. Just sweet. Teguise Market Not to be confused with Costa Teguise, Teguise is in the centre of the island and used to be the island’s capital. It hosts a big market every Sunday with stalls crammed into every nook and cranny, selling everything from clothes and jewellery to local produce and freshly-squeezed juices (just what the doctor ordered after traipsing up and down the quaint, narrow alleyways). Needless to say, we got lost but, in doing so, discovered a fabulous cheese shop and a beautiful, shady courtyard serving drinks and tapas. No menu, just mixed tapas of the house, take it or leave it. We never did find out the name of it, or the cheese shop, unfortunately. Aquapark Costa Teguise Reviews of Aquapark Costa Teguise focus very much on the fact that it’s a bit past its best. So we went along, not expecting very much, and were pleasantly surprised – and with teenagers in tow, that is never guaranteed. They were old enough to go on anything they wanted to and we didn’t need to supervise. They had a whale of a time while we mooched about, sat in the shade and took a quick dip whenever we felt like it. Again, the water was chilly but it was fine once you were in. There seemed to be plenty to do for children of all ages and the food was better than average for this type of venue. Queues were long at lunchtime but what else would you expect? Timanfaya National Park We drove around the edge of the National Park on our way to Playa Blanca. We fully intended to book an excursion to see the park properly, go on a camel ride and watch the geothermal experiments – but we ran out of holiday. It is a spectacular place and I wish we’d seen El Golfo, a lurid green lake at the edge of the park. It’s on the list of places to go next time we visit Lanzarote. Would we go again? Yes, please! We loved the people, the place, and our villa was the best we’ve ever stayed in. There was so much more to do in Lanzarote but we just didn’t have time to do it all. We would definitely explore more of the island on another visit, probably on a guided tour but you can just as easily hire a car and drive yourself. Holidays with teenagers (and their friends) can be a minefield but Lanzarote lived up to everyone’s expectations. When can we go again?

06 September 2018

YYou don’t always have to take a flight to get the break you need. Did you know there were so many spots in the UK to have an incredible family experience? Not just the beautiful beaches of our stunning coastlines, how about a short trip to visit some fascinating animals incorporating a few days away too? Whether they chirp, road or splash, discover whereabouts in the UK your favourite creatures hang out and I’ll put some appropriate accommodation together for you to match up with an incredible all-round trip. LEMURS AT THE WELSH MOUNTAIN ZOO Conwy, North Wales You can get within metres of two species of lemurs – red-fronted and ring-tailed – who settled into their new home having arrived from Edinburgh and Belfast recently. Enter the walk-through enclosure – the first of its kind in North Wales! PENGUINS AT ZSL LONDON ZOO Regent’s Park, London A colony of super cute Humboldt penguins are loving life at Penguin Beach – their very own South American inspired exhibit. View them in the large underwater pool, penguin nursery and chic incubation unit and pool. The feeding time spectacle shouldn’t be missed! If that isn’t enough, you can meet them too (supplement). GORILLAS AT BRISTOL ZOO Clifton, Bristol Seven western lowland gorillas from Cameroon have set up home here. This group of endangered species includes Silverback Jock, four females and two babies. Observe them munching on specially made biscuits. JAPANESE SPIDER CRAP AT SEA LIFE BRIGHTON Brighton, Sussex The star of the show in The Claws exhibit is the Japanese spider crab – the largest anthropod in the world its legs can reach up to 12 ft across! You’ll pinch yourself when you get up close to the predators LIONS Africa Alive! Kessingland, Suffolk Experience the plains of the world's second largest continent as you come face to face (kind of) with the king of the jungle. See lions from the Lookout Lodge or watch them roam around in their den. GREEN SAWFISH The Deep, Hull With 2.5 million litres of water and 87 tonnes of salt, the Endless Ocean exhibit is impressive. As well as sharks, rays and turtles, a highlight is spotting green sawfish - the only place in the UK where you can see them. The endangered species and its pals get fed during the daily dive shows at 2pm, for your information. SHARKS Blue Planet Aquarium, Ellesmere Port, Cheshire Boasting one of Europe's largest collections of sharks, you'll spot sand tigers (the big one is 3.2 metres long!), zebra, lemon, nurse, black tips and white tips from the moving walkway through a 70-metre underwater tunnel. ELEPHANTS Blackpool Zoo, Blackpool, Lancashire Multimillion-pound Project Elephant includes one of the UK's biggest indoor elephant facilities built across three acres of land. New this year, it houses a breeding herd of Asian elephants in their paddock plus a sanded area, bathing pool and landscaped field. GIANT PANDA Edinburgh Zoo, Edinburgh The only giant pandas in the UK are based here, having been on loan from China for the last 10 years Female Tian Tian and male Yuang Guang wander around in separate but identical enclosures. You might see them get weighed if you're there in the morning. OWLS Scottish Owl Centre, Whitburn, West Lothian You'd be wise to visit this country park if you're an owl n! There are more than 100 feathered friends from 40 species and it has the largest collection of trained owls in the world, from the brown wood owl to the Eurasian eagle owl; you'll have a hoot! -------------------------------------- If you'd like help putting together some travel plans to incorporate one or more of these fascinating places, then just contact me to get things started. Not your cup of tea? Then let me know and I can start putting some options together which are more up your street and we can go from there. Email: melissa.coleman@travelcounsellors.com Tel: 07738 466 670 / 01386 897 830

04 September 2018

When Sarah got back from her latest round the world adventure that I'd had the pleasure of putting together, I asked her if there were still many places left on her 'bucket list' or if she'd pretty much exhausted them. Despite responding that perhaps I was just as bad, she put together a little list of things that she still hadn't managed to complete but were on the horizon for the next few years, and could I help with. Grand Canyon 'A helicopter tour of that marvellous red rock in Arizona. How cool would that be? I'm scared of heights and flying but I'd be wowed by the beauty, so it would also be a real challenge.' Australia 'Desperate to visit Oz. We tend to go to New Zealand to see family and don't stop off at Australia because after travelling for 28 hours those extra few hours really are the straw that breaks the camel's back. I'd love to go to the Whitsunday Islands and see the Great Barrier Reef. And everyone who's been to Sydney tell me they love it so much they want to move there because it's so magical!' A vineyard tour in France 'My favourite red wine is Chateauneuf-du-Pape so I'd start with a visit to the Rhone region where those grapes are grown. That would be combining two of my favourite things - fine wine and France ... what's not to love?' West coast of America road trip 'In a Winnebago with the future family; we'd start in LA and drive all the way down to San Francisco, stopping at Santa Barbara, Carmel, Monterey - I'd love to do that route, and perhaps it's one that can wait until we have kids.' Do a skydive 'I know that's a bit of a strange one, but again, as I'm terrified of heights, I'd relish the test. I want to beat my fear of flying and the thought of jumping out of a tiny metal box is absolutely mad, but I'd like to muster up the courage to do it.' ---------------------------------------- If you have adventures and dream on your bucket list, why not send them across to me so we can make THE ULTIMATE list to share with the world? Anonymously, of course!

28 June 2018

Shipwrecks are important discoveries. Over countless centuries, there have been many ships that have fallen prey to accidents – natural as well as caused by human interference. I have had the pleasure of putting together some incredible itineraries for an avid traveller, who has been wanting to incorporate these into her plans when she explores the world, to find some of the precious maritime treasures that have been lying at the ocean’s floor. Dimitrios - Valtaki Beach, Greece Visible from the roadside, the former freight ship's past is mysterious - no one quite knows how it got there back in 1981; some say it was torched to get rid of evidence of illegal cigarette smuggling, others claim it was just abandoned by its owners then swept loose before beaching. Either way, it makes a striking landmark and is sure worth an explore! SS Maheno - Fraser Island, Australia The most famous of the areas shipwrecks, this once well-known trans-Tasman liner was Japan-bound when it met a stormy end here in 1935 after hitting a cyclone. She's had quite a life - originally crossing back and forth across the Tasman Sea, she was then called into service as a hospital ship in 1905 then called across to the UK to serve the wounded European soldiers. It's a shame she has now been left rusting and forgotten. Sweepstakes - Lake Huron, North America Often described as the world's most beautiful shipwreck, the haunting hull of this 19th century Canadian schooner remains in just 20 feet of water. It sank in 1885 and is a captivating wreck, visited by divers and boat passengers regularly. Unfortunately, we're not able to actually go inside the wreck, but simply being able to get up close is rather amazing! Giannis D - Sha'ab Abu Nuhas, Red Sea A spectacular site underneath this treacherous reef, Giannis D is one of four wrecks in close proximity. Sha'ab Abu Nuhas Reef has brought passing ships more than their fair share of bad luck - but offering some spectacular wreck diving for us! Sunk in 1983, the Japanese freighter is also often visited by snorkellers. Bád Eddie - Bunbeg, County Durham Although part of the beach's landscape since the early 70's, the fishing vessel was only made famous when it appeared in Bono's music video for 'In a lifetime' in 1985. Pictures of the boat with Mount Errigal in the background have become one of the most famous images of the west Donegal Gaeltacht. There have been calls to replace this iconic wreck with a monument as the vessel's exposure to the elements has left it in a dangerous state. There's no time like the present - visit it now! So there it is - my account of just a handful of wrecks throughout the world which I'd recommend adding to your 'bucket list', should you have any interest at all in such beautiful, decaying objects.

28 June 2018

When I was asked to put together my good friend’s honeymoon, I was ecstatic - what an honour - and all the way from Australia as well! When they asked for me to use the Orient Express route as inspiration, I loved it even more - what a great challenge - and I always like piecing a travel-jigsaw together! It didn't all go according to plan; one of the trains was delayed which created a knock-on effect, but overall, they were delighted and had an incredible time exploring the delights of Europe, by rail, from Paris to Vienna, then across to Budapest, onwards to Bucharest before then hopping a flight to Istanbul for a luxurious final few nights at the Sura Hagia Sofia. Here's what they had to say about it: Which was your favourite, and would you go back? Istanbul was our favourite city. It's rare to get somewhere that you've read about and dreamed of, and have it live up to your expectations. Istanbul possibly exceeded them - the people are friendly, the food delicious, the cobbled alleys so picturesque! I'd love to spend more time in Turkey based on my short stay in Istanbul! Did the trains work out as a convenient way to travel and were the connections good overall? The trains are a great way to get around if you're not in a hurry. It's nice to be able to enjoy the journey and scenery as well as the destination. Quick tip for anyone else doing the trip - there is no restaurant car between Budapest and Romania, so bring plenty of water and food on the train with you! Would you recommend the journey you took or make any changes? Bucharest was our least favourite place on the trip, though we did a food-based walking tour which was fun! Still nice to visit, but I'd recommend only a couple of days. What was your favourite food throughout Europe? I'm lactose intolerant, so luckily the hotel in Austria has lactose free milk and yoghurt for breakfast, and I had a lactose free ice cream at a park! All the food we had in Istanbul was delicious. What's one thing you would recommend doing whilst there? We loved the Moulin Rouge (and the dinner we had there!) The show was fun and energetic, and I loved every minute of it. I wasn't expecting the acrobats that came out between dances, but they were fantastic too. And everyone should treat themselves to a Turkish bath in Istanbul. We went at the hotel and it was so good. So there it is - what a fantastic trip they had and what a way to travel! If you'd like any other details on this or want to put your very own Orient Express-style journey together, then just ask me and we can start.

28 June 2018

Have you ever considered visiting Shetland Isles, Scotland? I have just had some avid explorers return from this tree-less region, having had an incredible holiday tracking the beautiful puffin and visiting historical sites throughout the islands. Britain's most northerly point provides a haven for thousands of seabirds, overlooking the North Sea. Although native to the Atlantic Ocean, these unmistakable birds with their black and white under-parts, distinctive heads and brightly coloured bills, can be found on the northern tip of Unst. There are seven main puffin colonies in Shetland and your most likely to spot then from April to mid-August, particularly at Hermaness Nature Reserve. Travel by hire car or on an organized trip is by far the best way to get around up here - and having your own car means you can then go at your own speed too. For a dramatic sight, visit just before sunset where these fascinating creatures sit looking out to sea. If you're there during chick rearing season (June-early August), you might spot adults bringing beaks full of fish to feed their young too. An absolutely amazing couple of weeks, highly recommended and definitely worth a return visit and these islands really do offer something quite extraordinary. The biggest shock on returning to England - was quite how many trees we have surround us here! Will definitely be heading back there in the future some more puffin watching.

28 June 2018

Did you know Italy is made up of 20 regions and 6 islands? It's also home to an impressive 40 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, is the fourth most visited country on the planet and the average Italian drinks more than 26 gallons of wine each year. What more inspiration do you need to visit this incredible country? Paris is synonymous with love and romance, but of course, it's not everyone's cup of tea. Ranking so high in the most desired dating destination for 2018, Italy really must be on your list for visiting - if not this year, then start making plans for the future! Perhaps it's those dreamy nights wandering past the Trevi Fountain or taking a gondola through the enchanting city of Venice, or simply a meal for two overlooking beautiful Lake Como. Whatever tickles your fancy, Italy will offer it and all you need to do is start exploring.

28 September 2017

California has more national parks than any other state in USA, is the only state that has hosted both the Summer and Winter Olympics and did you know that in 2015, it surpassed France to become sixth-largest economy in the world? This fascinating state has so much to offer - from a romantic trip for two, an adventure based expedition or even a multi-generational summer holiday; it really has got it all. Here's what one family had to say about their two week road trip this summer, when they took to the road in an SUV and a Mustang Convertible, naturally. San Francisco: The baseball game was fantastic and we’d recommend it to anyone for a taste of the USA! As a tip, I’d say do buy the cheapest tickets as once we were inside the arena, it did seem that you could move seats without any problem once the game was underway. Also, don’t rush to get there on time – it was half empty when the game started and full by the time we left. The Sheraton Fisherman's Wharf Hotel we stayed at was fine, clean and safe but no personal service. I wouldn’t suggest staying in Fisherman’s Wharf particularly - stay around Union Square, in the Italian district or in the Chinese district. We took a city tour on Hornblower Classic Cable Cars and could hugely recommend it if you’re there for a short time. Whipped through all the districts, drove over the Golden Gate Bridge, through the parks, saw the hippies at Haight Ashbury, the Victorian houses, dramatic descent down Nob Hill, along the seafront all in 2 hours with great commentary from amusing hosts. Half Moon Bay: We drove down the coast from San Francisco to Half Moon Bay. There seems to be two parts to that town – the charming Main Street which is slightly inland but leads to a lovely beach, and then a great harbour area about two miles away. I’d recommend a day spent mooching and lunching in Main Street then an evening spent at The Oceano Hotel at Half Moon Bay Harbor. There are several charming bars and restaurants around the harbour for supper. Move on the next day, down the beautiful coast road (Highway 1) until you see signs for La Honda. This is a town up in the mountains and if you head for this area then on to the Redwood Basin it’s a fabulous drive that takes about 3 hours through beautiful scenery, giant Redwoods, through mountain passes and creek roads. Head for Boulder Creek which is a fabulous old fashioned town that looks like something from a western movie and even has a Sherriff’s Office on the high street. Stay the night around here, either in the town or there seems to be lots of camping/hiking/lodge sort of places around. Carmel by the Sea: There’s a great walk to know about that shows you the beautiful shoreline, fabulous houses and architecture and the Mission. If you head down toward the beach, there’s a road off to the left called Scenic Road (appropriately). Probably about 2 miles in a loop back to the town centre. We found a fantastic roof top bar with great food, good service and fires to sit around, called Vesuvio in the centre of Carmel. The highlight for us on this part of the trip was the Bull Riding Event at Salinas which Melissa managed to track down for us. FANTASTIC! We’d recommend it to anyone, if dates tie up. Great atmosphere, great Margaritas, great people watching and crazy sport. We also thoroughly enjoys A.W. Shucks seafood, oysters, great service, buzzy bar with top atmosphere. Santa Barbara: The Harbor View Inn was perfectly positioned for strolling along the beach road, with the pier 5 minutes in one direction and the harbour 5 minutes in the other. There’s an electric trolley that you can hop onto for 50 cents that takes you from the beach up State Street (the main street in the city). There's the courthouse and clock tower (ask the trolley driver when to get off) which was interesting, beautiful and take the lift up the clock tower for an incredible view of the whole city. State Street is busy and buzzy, full of high street names but nowhere near as charming as the Funk Zone which is an area about 4 blocks square, just off Main Street and full of independent bars and restaurants - the Lark is a great bar with inside/outside dining and worth finding. The best ice cream in California is to be had at McConnells in Main Street. Get a water taxi from the harbour across to the pier. Then rent a bike and cycle along the beach road. Next time I'd avoid driving the coast road through LA, however we passed some great looking places and would have happily stayed a night or two in Huntington Beach, Newport Beach and best of all, Laguna Beach. San Diego: A MASSIVE city made up of several different districts. We stayed in Pacific Beach and I think in hindsight we might have opted for La Jolla, which was very upmarket, safe, charming with a beach full of seals and sea lions you could swim with, fantastic top end restaurants on the cliff to watch the sunset from and loads of very fancy shops. Pacific Beach where we stayed was lovely - the beach was incredible and we rented body boards; the sea was a perfect temperature, white sand, no big drop away so perfect for holiday makers and the beach was packed with them! More a surfer area than sophistication here. Our hotel, Pacific Terrace, was fantastic – in a great position but most of all really great staff who couldn’t do enough for us to make our stay perfect. Then there seemed to be more of a hippy beach at Ocean then a really posh area on Comodoro Island with a swanky old fashioned hotel. We didn’t have time to get to the Gaslight District which apparently is buzzing with bars and clubs but if we were there for longer I would definitely have visited that area plus done a city tour, visited the world famous zoo, had brunch or cocktails at the Comodoro Island Hotel. There was a long pier opposite our hotel and it looked like you could rent large beach huts along it that you could sleep in – that looked fun. In hindsight, we should have had a night less in Carmel and a night more in San Diego, or extended both slightly and made more of a comfortable route for that last leg of the journey. However, a thoroughly enjoyable trip which we would recommend for others to enjoy - what an amazing place! TOP TIPS: - Arrive at Pier 39 by 8am, get coffee and freshly baked pastries from the amazing Boudins bakery on the pier then sit and watch the sea lions before the crowds appear - There are very few taxis around, everyone uses Uber so download the app before you go - San Diego airport is tiny so don’t expect shopping or dining of any high standard

21 September 2017

Borneo, the third largest island in the world after Greenland and New Guinea, is made up of three countries – Malaysia, Brunei and Indonesia. It had been a long time coming – dreams of orangutans and tropical rainforests had consumed my mind as a teenager so when my friend suggested we ‘just get on with it’, I literally leapt at the chance! How to decide where on earth to explore when you have just two weeks and an absolute lust to see every square inch? Due to an overwhelming area for which we may well need several weeks to explore plus the element of visa requirements, we eliminated Indonesia from our research, were quick to cross off Brunei and sadly were unable to stretch our time to reach the Western Malaysian province of Sarawak too as logistically it would have consumed just too many of our limited days. So, we had finally narrowed it down to the Eastern Malaysian state of Sabah – even just this small-by-comparison area would be quite a rush! Upon arrival in Kota Kinabalu, we had a brief overnight stop before a very early flight across to Sandakan, famed for the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre and Sun Bear Conservation Centre. After all these years, I finally set eyes on the beautiful creatures and Kings of the trees which are renowned in these dense forests; orangutans. We moved on to take a river cruise along the typically brown Kinabatangan River which offered such incredible opportunities for animal spotting! The river snakes through Sabah’s lowlands for 560km to reach Sulu Sea. Close up with the pygmy elephants on the river bank, tracking the Silver Leaf Monkeys swinging from branch to branch as the region reveals a mosaic of riparian forest alongside Oxbow Lake and mangroves a plenty. Making our way further south and inland, we arrive deep in the rainforest of Danum Valley and the wonderful yet sympathetically built 4* Borneo Rainforest Lodge. Armed with leech socks, we took many a guided trip and full day hike out into the (relatively) undisturbed lowland of pristine, virgin forest - one of the last strongholds of undisturbed tropical flora and fauna in the world. This area of 438 square kilometres cannot be covered in one trip, but being eager for early starts and staying out even in the most torrential of (typical rainforest) downpours, we definitely made the most of our time there. Groups of macaques eyed us calmly and majestic hornbills soared through the tree tops above as we made our way up to Coffin Cliff. Perfect views creeping into sight across the canopy and tales of indigenous people who once called this home. From Lahad Datu we flew back to Kota Kinabalu where we prepared to conquer the island’s highest peak, Mount Kinabalu at 4,095m. Despite the steps and roped-lines which have been created to assist hikers, this adventure was certainly epic and one not to be underestimated. Whether completed in 2 days/1 night or extended to 3 days and 2 nights, arriving at the summit to witness the spectacular sunrise means leaving base camp in the middle of the night – a wholly unnatural feat whereby your entire being just wants to snuggle up and go back to sleep. We made it – and all in one piece too! Now for some well-deserved R & R... Just a 30 minute boat trip off Kota Kinabalu, Gaya Island forms part of the Tunka Abdul Rahman National Park. This really was the perfect place to relax after such a hard slog of a hike, so spending three nights there felt simply blissful. The beachfront resort truly does blend harmoniously with the natural environment. Our beautiful villa hung delightfully over the translucent ocean with which we dangled our feet and cooled off after a hard day lying on our veranda. Kayaking, snorkelling and relaxing were the order of each day followed by a severe overindulgence in each of the top-class restaurants in the resort, until our mountain-fit bodies were all but a distant memory. What a wonderful way to end an utterly diverse, adventurous and incredible holiday. TOP TIP: Try to resist temptation to fit too much into your trip! If you can extend to three weeks then perfect, otherwise I would seriously recommend researching which region might tick the most boxes for you and concentrate on that area; whether it be Malaysia, Brunei or Indonesia then Sabah or Sarawak, this rugged and wild island will certainly not disappoint.

26 July 2017

Four weeks is an incredible amount of time to have for a honeymoon! So, Laura and James decided to really make the most of it and combine driving, camping, sightseeing and exploring taking in the wonders of Vancouver, Whistler, Vancouver Island, Inside Passage, the fabulous train Journey from Prince Rupert to Jasper and the ice-fields parkway from Jasper to Banff. Here's a bit from them: - Would you recommend Canada as a honeymoon destination? Decided to go to west coast Canada as the Rocky Mountains was on my ‘bucket list’. We both love nature & seeing wildlife so it seemed the perfect match. Canada isn’t the most common place for a honeymoon but it was perfect for us, we are not sitting-on-the-beach types, we enjoy walking, exploring and travelling around and we certainly did that! - What did you make of the people and country - did you get to see much wildlife? The people were lovely, the scenery, and country is absolutely beautiful. We saw Black bears in the wild in Tofino (Vancouver Island), another black bear walking around Jasper town and Elk absolutely everywhere. But one of the highlights in terms of wildlife was seeing a Moose with a baby at Moose Lake. - Where would you recommend avoiding or not going to for those wanting to visit? During our journey, we travelled over land by train on a two day trip from Prince Rupert to Jasper, although the scenery was fantastic the trip took an age. We knew we were travelling at least 8 hours per day by train but these days turned into 15 hours, the tracks are single track and freight is King so our train would be pulled to a side so that freight could pass, this was a little frustrating, however it was a great experience. - What was the highlight of the holiday for you? Jasper was a definite highlight, we did an amazing free walking tour with a really knowledgeable guide, we even got to see wild black bears in the centre of town, there was always lots to do and the Alberta park rangers were everywhere to give you lots of information. One evening we stumbled across a rodeo, shared a few beers with the locals and ate Poutine whilst watching the entertainment. Jasper was a great hub to go and visit lots of other sites, including Miette Hot springs, and Maligne lake where we did a walk and stumbled across a moose and calf feeding. Jasper is a destination that we would go back and visit again. - Overall rating for your wonderful honeymoon? 10/10 AMAZING!!

26 July 2017

Despite the two-hour flight delay due to air strikes, we managed to arrive at Barcelona El-Prat airport in perfect time to take our transfer to the wonderfully located Hotel Balmes and wander off down Las Ramblas for a spot of vino y tapas in one of Plaça Reial’s delightful restaurants which settled us in a treat. We continued planning our few days away. Early March and the weather isn’t supposed to be hot yet, so a comfortable 14°C was a perfectly acceptable daytime temperature for us to be frantically marching around this fascinating city - until we managed to slow ourselves down, relax into the beautiful Spanish pace and admire our surroundings, properly. Where better to begin than with one of the most famous buildings in the world. Scaffolding and all, this magnificent Roman Catholic Church designed by Antoni Gaudí has left many a tourist with their jaw dropped wide open – and we were no different. Construction commenced on Barcelona's Sagrada Familia in 1882, progression was slow due to funding and was then disrupted altogether by the Spanish Civil War. Gaudí’s sudden death in 1926 left the building only a quarter complete and it would be more than 80 years later that it even reached the half way point. Gothic is combined with Art Nouveau to make it simply exquisite – a must see for all who visit this fascinating city. Although we enjoyed viewing one of Gaudí’s most fascinating buildings, La Pedrera (Casa Milà), en route, I would definitely recommend heading back at night to explore the rooftop sculpture park! Views down the street and across the top of the city … you may even be able to see one of his most spectacular buildings – Casa Batlló (also part of the UNSECO World Heritage Site) which looks like a jewel inside and out. Taking the subway across to the other side of the city, we arrived at Carmel Hill, home to the artistic and creative Guell Park – quite possibly one of the most intriguing urban parks in the world, a modernist masterpiece. Gaudí planned and directed the construction of the park for 4 years from 1900 with the intention of it becoming a residential park for sixty family residences. The centrepiece is the intended covered market, a majestic forest of immense columns with its roof forming a vast terrace with a view of the city. It must be one of Gaudí’s most playful and colourful works, completely let loose his imagination to create this area. Another day and another subway journey then cross to the metro – this time to Castell de Montjuïc atop the hill of the same name. It has an interesting history that by its very nature as a fort is full of battles, architectural renovations and politics. At some point in the future it would be nice to think the city council will better educate tourists here by informing about the struggle Catalonia has had over the centuries and how one modest citadel played centre stage to it all. The Teleferico de Barcelona and cable car plus funicular journey was a marvellous way to descend to Port Vell with beautiful views across the Mediterranean Sea. Port Vell was the perfect place to relax with a delightful glass of wine and a selection of nibbles overlooking the looming sea mist fast approaching this renovated harbour area. For our final day, we returned to some of our favourite vino y tapas bars and explored the beautiful Gothic Quarter. Once a Roman village, this is the centre of the old part of the city of Barcelona stretching from La Rambla to Via Laietana and from the Mediterranean seafront to Ronda de Sant Pere. The fabulous mix of old and new brings people from all over the world to explore the narrow, winding streets which create the labyrinth which is key to this Gothic Quarter. Just remember to look up and around so as not to miss some of the best bits! Wander back up to La Rambla and be careful not to miss the arched walkway through to the hidden feeding halls of Mercat de la Boqueria. Resist overindulging at the first stalls, keep moving and enjoy a reward of local beer and perhaps a seafood platter further down the line – it’s simply too good to miss! The incredible contrast between colours and activity is mind blowing. These markets are perfect for discovering why Mediterranean cuisine is internationally known for its ingredients; the best products from Catalonia in one place – fruit, vegetables, fish and seafood and tapas bars. Try El Quim to name but one. Whether you have two nights or two weeks, you will not be lost for thing to see, do, eat or drink so book your trip, grab a guide book and go exploring one of the finest cities in the world. TOP TIPS: - Stay in Eixample area for great hotels at much better prices than on Las Ramblas and still within walking distance to most sites. - Visit Castell de Montjuïc after 3pm on a Sunday and you can get in free!

26 July 2017

It’s not too late to get booking your ski break for 2017 – the season is in full swing. Here’s my top five locations and resorts which won’t disappoint. 1. Val d’Isère-Tignes, France With slopes up to 3,456m and the largest artificial snow-making plant in Europe these two contrasting yet linked resorts boast a giant ski area with 300km of pistes. Val d’Isère is dominated by chalets and 4-5* hotels whereas Tignes is primarily full of apartments and a few hotels with a series of purpose-built ski stations at varying altitudes. Glaciers aside, the incredible altitudes of slopes generally ensures this as a snow-sure destination – and in any case, Val has the largest artificial snowmaking plant in Europe which could fill an Olympic size swimming pool in 30 minutes! 2. Verbier, Switzerland Offering a top lift at 3,300m, you can imagine the powder buffs that this resort attracts. Snow cover is pretty much guaranteed at altitude and this helps Verbier keep its title of ‘Freeride Capital of the Alps’. Lower slopes can suffer if snow fall is low, but with 400km of linked pistes to explore, I would highly recommend buying the 4 Valleys lift pass. 3. Lech, Austria An upmarket village in the Voralberg region with slopes up to 2,450m. The region shares a lift pass and a link with neighbouring St Anton – however Lech boasts superior snow cover and has the highest average annual snowfall of any resort in Europe! The North-facing slopes and snow guns help keep the 185km of runs in good condition throughout the season. 4. Whistler, British Columbia 3,300 skiable hectares to explore, slope altitude up to 2,285m and rain commonly falling as powder snow around the top lifts – it’s no wonder this is the most popular ski resort in North America for British visitors. The maritime climate can provide harsh and changeable weather, but with the two central areas of Whistler Village and Blackcomb offering gondola access to the mountains, you will be able to warm up and head back out as you wish. 5. Val Thorens, France The highest village ski resort in Europe sits at 2,300m with the highest lift travelling to 3,230m; the top point of the whole 600km Trois Vallées ski area. Being so high up ensures decent snow conditions from late November until early May. Don’t miss out on this year’s ski season – contact me to discuss hitting the slopes for your next holiday.

26 July 2017

It was early April when we arrived in Tallinn, Estonia's picture perfect capital city. We'd disembarked from our flight with Ryanair at Tallinn's lovely little airport. Situated only 4km from the centre, it was remarkable to think that this cute airport was the largest in Europe when it was built in 1936. Our good impression of Estonia only got better as we arrived at the splendid Palace Hotel, our base for the next three days. Located across the street from Freedom Square and on the edge of this fine walled medieval city. For those of us used to the hustle and bustle of other European cities, Tallinn is an absolute gem. The old town, with its cobbled streets and grand squares is almost entirely devoid of traffic and people. This makes a stroll around its narrow streets and alleyways a real pleasure. Be sure to pack a pair of comfortable walking shoes as the cobbles are everywhere in old town! Museums, churches, cafes and restaurants abound with culture and cuisine to suit every taste. With so much on offer, it's easy to exhaust yourself so we made sure we had plenty of café stops - for research purposes, naturally. Climbing the narrow spiral staircase to the top of Oleviste church tower is a must - with its commanding views over the whole of Tallinn. When the spire was added in 1500 it was then the world's tallest building. There are many sights outside of the city walls of old town and easily reached by taxi or on foot if you prefer. The Seaplane Harbour Museum is worth a visit as are the historic ships moored on its quayside. The walk there from the old town takes you beside the shore of the Baltic Sea. Along the way you happen upon the crumbling Patarei Prison Museum. The prison was in use until 2004 and even when the museum isn't open you can still peer through the broken windows into the cells. The decay and sense of despair is acute as you walk past the high walls, razor wire and watchtowers. Perhaps not to everyone's taste but fascinating nonetheless. Three days in Tallinn is probably just enough to enjoy all this quaint city has to offer. And if you go in early spring as we did, you should have reasonable weather without the crowds that flock here in July & August. Thank you Estonia for providing us with such a delightful city break and the warmest of welcomes. We'll be sure to return soon.

26 July 2017

There are few things better than a long, tough hike - except maybe a short, easy hike that puts you in the thick of the wild in a hurry. Short hikes are ideal for those people who say they don’t like to hike - your grandmother, your new significant other, maybe even you. And who knows, once those non-hikers get out on the trail, they may want more. With a love of easy hikes to gorgeous landscapes in mind, I put together this list of the best little walks with great rewards: 1. Rifugio Bonatti, Courmayeur, Italy Distance: 7 miles (11.3 kilometres) one-way from Courmayeur Great reward: European comfort in the shadows of the wild Mont Blanc massif Get stuck in: Tucked at the foot of the hulking white mass of 15,776-foot (4,809-metre) Mont Blanc, the village of Courmayeur is more laid-back than the extreme-sport-minded French town of Chamonix on the other side. It has a long history of mountaineering, including the second oldest mountain guide association in the world. In 1850 the Società delle Guide di Courmayeur was established - you may like to visit their extensive climbing museum in town. The valley also boasts one of the best hut systems in the Alps, including the gem of Rifugio Bonatti. With a sweeping view of glaciers, and the peaks of the sharp ridge of the 13,806-foot (4,208-metre) Grandes Jorasses, the rifugio is more mountain hotel than hut, serving up Italian delicacies and aperitifs from a full bar. While the hike from town takes in about 2,800 feet (853 metres) of vertical gain, a sip of espresso or fernet, an Italian spirit, at the hut will certainly ease the pain (or you can get a shuttle ride up the valley and cut the hike down to about an hour and 900 vertical feet/274 metres). 2. Imja Tse (Island Peak), Nepal Distance: 35 to 40 miles (56.3 to 64.4 kilometres) Great reward: A Himalayan peak that non-climbers have a good shot at summiting Get stuck in: This is no easy hike. It’s a mountaineering trip up a 20,305-foot (6,189-metre) peak in the Himalayas that requires the proper equipment and experience - but it is the most climbed peak in the Himalayas and a summit that strong hikers aided by guides have a good chance to stand atop, without all the dangers and commitment of famed 26,247-foot (8,000-metre) summits like Everest or Annapurna. The trek begins on the Everest Base Camp route, before heading off to a string of high mountain villages and base camp. From the top, you can gaze out across the range, including an impressive view of Lhotse, with Everest hidden right behind it (after you have summited you can head to Everest Base Camp as well). Climbing the peak is also a boost to the people of Nepal, especially those in this region who were devastated by the earthquakes of 2015 and need tourists to return to continue rebuilding. 3. Gleninchaquin, County Kerry, Ireland Distance: 2 - 4 miles (3.2 to 6.4 kilometres) Great reward: An easy romp that puts you in the heart of the wild Irish countryside Get stuck in: The magical valley of Gleninchaquin Park, which the end of the last ice age left exposed 70,000 years ago, makes you feel as if you have wandered back into Gaelic legend. No wonder, meadows here attracted nomadic people like the wandering Fianna who set up camp then left remains in cooking areas. This is a private park and there are working farms and sheep grazing within it, so the bucolic history here is as much a part of the hike as the green, open spaces, still lakes, waterfalls, and grassy hillsides. Several short hikes take in this area, from a short jaunt around the farm to an off-trail scamper on the high country. 4. Hooker Valley Track, Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park, New Zealand Distance: 3 miles (4.8 kilometres) round-trip Great reward: Rain forest opens up into big views of New Zealand’s Southern Alps and stops at a glacial lake Get stuck in: It’s tough to find another hike this short that takes in so much: In just three miles (4.8 kilometers) the Hooker Track serves up rain forest, suspension foot bridges over a rushing river, sweeping views of the island nation’s largest peaks, glaciers, and the milky blue waters of lake. With 12,218-foot (3,724-metre) Mount Cook lording over it, this national park typifies the stark contrasts of the South Pacific, where glaciers climb up steep, heavily forested peaks almost straight from the sea and unhinged storms can close things down at any time. But all you need is an afternoon stroll on the Hooker Track, which begins at the visitor centre and ends up at a lake at the foot of the glacier that often holds calved chunks of ice floating on it. In between, it’s a tromp through the strewn boulders of the moraine and open country and stops at viewpoints that give a sense of the massive scope of the Southern Hemisphere’s most impressive set of peaks. 5. Les Dentelles de Montmirail, Gigondas, France Distance: 4 miles (6.4 kilometres) Great reward: A glass of one of the Rhone Valley’s best wines in the middle of a hike to soaring limestone fins Get stuck in: While it may be a bit longer than other hikes on this list, there’s one big difference here - the incentive of wine en route. And not just any wine. Gigondas is one of the best wine regions in the Rhone Valley – the name roughly means “the happy place”, as ancient Roman soliders would relax with the wine from the vines here. The vineyards drape the forested, limestone hills of the Montmirail and the town of Gigondas offers up samples of the wine at caves right in the main square. The real treat is up above the town where the limestone fins of Les Dentelles rise up above the surrounding hills. Les Dentelles draws climbers from around the world, and the trail runs right along the base of them. It’s a stiff hike to reach them, but it's tempered by easy strolling along some of the vineyards and the reward of a glass of wine and meal. The route starts just outside of town—you can shorten it and just hike up to admire Les Dentelles from Gigondas or lengthen it by hopping on the larger GR de Pays de Montmirail trail system and trekking to neighbouring towns.

26 July 2017

Before parenthood, Becky and Rob visited a lot of countries throughout the world and having their two beautiful sons hasn't deterred them in the slightest! Their eldest son Archie (3), has been on many an adventure, not least to explore some of Europe's finest cities. This latest journey was with Archie and his little brother Harris (18m) to experience - what better place for a February break than Lithuania's fascinating capital, Vilnius? Despite the 'Baltic' warnings of temperatures dropping to below freezing for most of their time, Becky, Rob and their children were excited to go out exploring in the depths of winter - when few tourists venture out and the city could be explored minus the summer's hustle and bustle. Upon their return, they were kind enough to work with me to put together a bit of an 'interview' on how they found the city - in general and with two young children. Here's what they thoughts: Where have you just been and have you been there before? We've just been to Vilnius in Lithuania for the first time with our two young boys. How would you rate it out of 10 as an all-round destination? 6/10 And out of all the European cities you have visited, how does this one compare? Quite similar to other Eastern European cities. It seemed more spread out than some and the Old Town was difficult to distinguish from other areas. Was there enough for the children? If so, what did you do altogether as family activities? The Akropolis Centre (10 minute taxi ride from city centre) was good for the children as it has an ice rink and large soft play area. It also has a good range of shops. In the centre there is the castle and funicular railway which was unfortunately closed for refurbishment during our visit, but would have been great! How would you rate The Artis Hotel, which you stayed in for 4 nights (quality/standard/location)? We were really pleased with the accommodation. The room was huge and the pool was a hit with the boys. Breakfast included a good range of food (both hot and cold options). Any extra tips or recommendations for others who may want to visit? A day trip to Trakai is a must. There you will find a fantastic castle in the middle of a lake! It looks incredible - most of the rooms are open to be explored and contain some great exhibits. --------------------------------------------------- Thanks to Becky and Rob for their account of Vilnius and some top tips for where to head to when you visit. Don't forget - if you need any more ideas, just ask!

26 July 2017

A wonderful account by my latest travellers to spend 11 special days on the Isles of Scilly in June: We drove to Exeter and boarded the Skybus (with 12 other passengers and a black Labrador) to St. Mary's. We were collected and taken to the Star Castle Hotel where we sat on the sunny ramparts for a light lunch and bottle of delicious Champagne, courtesy of our very special travel consultant. After quickly unpacking, we ventured down into Hughtown to explore. A very gentle town with its own small selection of galleries, shops, pubs, beaches and quay. So many choices, for what is a must in Scilly, boat trips. We decided to visit Tresco (an enjoyable 20 minute sail) as we definitely wanted to spend time in the magnificent Abbey Gardens, which did not disappoint. We were then able to walk around the rest of the island before sailing back later in the day. Our next decision was how to get to know our island of St. Mary's a little better. Hire a golf buggy, sadly not as we did not bring our driving licences! Cycling, it's many years since we ventured on the roads with bikes so maybe not. A round island bus tour, day trippers off the Scillonian have just beaten us to it, full up! Ok let's walk the coastal path, there is a breeze today, ideal conditions. We discovered several amazing pre bronze age burial sites, approximately 4000 years old. Fascinating. Went into local craft shops and galleries, the whole time we were very close to the sea and we easily came across several cafe/restaurant/tea shops to revive us with delightful choices. Always a pleasure, a quick drink before dinner on our way back to the hotel. Another day happily spent. Next, a trip to the more southern island of St. Agnes. Time stands still. They have the smallest school in British Isles, a church with beautiful stained glass, the bumpiest cricket pitch and a camp site right on the water's edge. We took a 2 hour boat trip to Annet to spot sea birds, a huge variation, which included many delightful puffins and even Peregrine Falcons. Gig racing is a very popular sport here, for the very fit, and we were lucky enough to see a Friday night race from St. Mary's to St. Agnes. A very special day, on the rare low tide, we were able to walk across from Tresco to Bryher. Tractors transport barbeques, picnic tables, flags and stalls which are set up on the sand bar for a real festival atmosphere. A prosecco and gin bar, lobster and crab stall, paella and live music. Within an hour everything and every person had retreated back to one island or the other, as if nothing has happened. Quite a magical experience. Our trip to St. Martin's was a very relaxed day, walking around the cliff path to the famous daymark, visiting Polreath cafe for delicious refreshment in their delightful garden, wandering into a gallery and jewellers and enjoying a paddle in the very shallow waters before, at the end of the day, sailing back to St. Mary's. On a cooler, wetter day the museum is well worth time spent, crammed full of historic information, artefacts and multiple shipwreck stories. Altogether, the Isles of Scilly are beautiful and unique. A most enjoyable destination for very laid back exploration. Time to leave, off to St. Mary's tiny airport and amazingly greeted at check in, 'You must be Stephen and Lynda'. A very different feel to Heathrow!

26 July 2017

I was delighted to be asked to put together an exciting and exploratory honeymoon to beautiful Iceland for my good friends Jen and Ric. Five days of romantic times, driving in snow and seeing the Northern Lights – here’s what they thought: - Where did you go on your honeymoon and have you been there before? We’ve just been to incredible Iceland – never been before but it’s been on the ‘bucket list’ for a very long time! - How would you rate it out of 10 as an all-round destination and as a honeymoon destination? 9/10 definitely! What a magical place, despite the snow flurries and crazy February temperatures, it really was such an adventure which was just what we asked for. - Is there anything you wished you could have seen/visited or done which you didn’t have time for? We would have loved to have stayed longer to explore the north and east of the island but unfortunately time just didn’t allow, this time. If we went again, we would like to visit in the summer to get more of a feel for the colours and landscape – the day before our arrival it snowed more than it had done since 1937! We would explore closer to Vik to see the waterfalls there and perhaps fly east, and add about 10 days to our trip! - What was your favourite food/restaurant or bar there? There were lots of really nice places in Reykjavik to eat and drink. We also really liked Kaffi Krus in Selfoss. My favourite eatery was a little, simple and slightly scruffy cafe in Hveragerdi called Gottis og Maeran – delicious ice cream! - Would you go back? Absolutely! I think it’s already planned in my head, so watch this space - Melissa I'll be in touch!

26 July 2017

Sometimes it’s just not enough to stay at home for the holidays. Perhaps you’ve been saving or even just waiting for that list of inspirational ideas to appear in front of you before taking the plunge and taking your family abroad. Have a read of my top 5 favourite ideas for you and let’s whet your appetite: 1. The ultimate city break - Rome, Italy Where to go: Rome for its history, culinary masterpieces and memory making. A place where children are adored, babies are fussed over and it’s short-haul! Teens will be equally as happy wander the Eternal City While you could spend weeks here, Rome is also perfect if you have only a short time for a break. This capital of ancient history, fantastic cuisine, and stunning beauty will please even the grumpiest of adolescents. It’s possible to coordinate with the school curriculum, meaning trips to the Vatican or the Colosseum will seem like an investment in your child’s academic future - with breaks for gelato and Roman pizza or even a side trip to Naples! 2. Cultural and culinary delights - India Where to go: India for a spot of culture, wildlife and culinary adventure in Kerala. Best for children aged 8-14 In two weeks, you could visit tea farms, wildlife sanctuaries and even take a cruise of the Keralan backwaters. A visit to the oldest European settlement in India will be the icing on the cake of exploring Kerala. The cherry is to add three nights at the end for some well-deserved R & R before returning home. 3. A wild adventure in the west - California, USA Where to go: California – Yellowstone and Sequoia National Parks are best for toddlers and upwards (some activities are age dependent) With 59 national parks to choose from and spanning 27 states, your family will have plenty to explore. My favourite for families is Sequoia, for its easy access and fantastically tall trees. A trip to Yellowstone is a must and one of the best places to camp in the US. Please try to avoid confrontation with a bear to enjoy some of the park’s 300 geysers! These enchant visitors of all ages – Old Faithful, the most famous, comes by its name honestly: it erupts 17 times each day, so you won’t miss it. The park offers a Junior Ranger programme, with guides for children ages four and older as a great way to navigate the park safely together. 4. Sun in the UAE - Dubai Where to go: Dubai – a family destination for children of every age! It’s not all about the sunshine – yes its average daily winter temperature is 25°C and there’s hardly any rain, but what about the seven plus theme parks which range from Legoland to IMG Worlds of Adventure? So, between lounging by the pool and soaking up the sun, you can wear out thrill-seeking children with a tour of the best of the new roller coasters, attractions themed around popular films. As always in Dubai, nothing will be done by half: Legoland’s water park features a half-million-gallon wave pool, and Legoland’s Dragon roller coaster is designed to reach speeds of 60km per hour. 5. A jungle safari - Costa Rica Where to go: Costa Rica is the ultimate destination for children of school-age to most appreciate the variety here. The best time to visit is during the dry season, from December to April There has never been a better time to visit Costa Rica – take advantage of the regular flights to reach the country regularly topping lists of the ‘world's happiest countries’. Costa Rica crams a rich variety of wildlife adventures into one conveniently small geographical package; there will be something for everyone in your family. While parents crane into the canopy for sloths, monkeys and macaws, children will be rummaging at ground level for poison-arrow frogs and other bizarre mini beasts. Zip-lining and river-rafting opportunities provide an adrenalin rush for thrill-seeking family members – although parents may prefer to steam gently in the natural hot springs of the volcano slopes...

26 July 2017

With easy flights, a complex history and modern feel, Krakow is not just about stag weekends – it makes a simple yet sophisticated city break option. For far too long Krakow has had something of a reputation for attracting crowds of soon-to-be-married gentlemen on stag weekends, but it really does deserve better. Poland’s second city and former capital is upstanding and architecturally fine: the showpiece Wawel Castle has undergone major restoration since the country gained independence in 1918, while Rynek Glowny, supposedly Europe’s largest medieval city square, is truly an incredible feat. During the Second World War, the Nazis made Krakow their home. While the rest of Poland was bombed, the old city was preserved. In their 70th year of liberation, the Auschwitz concentration camps make for an uncomfortable but worthwhile visit, for which you should put aside the best part of a day. The main site is about an hour from the city and is a lasting reminder of the Nazis’ depravity, the sheer scale of their extermination programme, and the lasting impact of the genocide on Poland’s population. Fortunately, Poland today is a happier place. So when you go, relive memories - painful, yet necessary, and take the chance to wander through a city that merits a better history than it has endured. An idea of what you to do with your days: Day One On arrival, make for the main square and St Mary’s Cathedral. Inside, wander around this stunning building and marvel at the overall highlight; the pentaptych altarpiece. With an absurd number of bars and ‘beer-houses’, try the Pijalnia Wodki i Piwa first – a 24-hour bar serving quince and plum vodkas within the newspaper covered walls. For more local atmosphere and cuisine, make your way across to Pod Aniolami restaurant where you really should try the wild boar with juniper berries whilst sitting in the 13th century cellar. Day Two On your first full day here, head to Wawel Hill, which has seat of Polish kings for over 500 years. The Royal Castle here is a magnificent Renaissance construction housing state rooms and private royal apartments with some of Poland’s most treasured works of art, including Leonardo da Vinci’s Lady with an Ermine, on display. Whilst up there, take a peek into Wawel Cathedral with its ice-cream scoop domes or one of the permanent exhibitions which are on-site. Taking lunch in Krakow’s Jewish quarter will show another side to this city. With a ‘make hummus not war’ attitude, visiting Hamsa is a relaxing experience offering mezze platters, full mains or their traditional ‘laffa’ bread. The area of Kazimierz is home to the Old Synagogue – a striking example of the buildings that survived the war. Making sure you have time in between to wander the streets and take in the wonderful atmosphere, cross the Vistula to Oskar Schindler’s factory which is just past the MOCAK contemporary art gallery. Although this museum may be unsettling, you will come away with a better sense of Poland’s situation in the Second World War. It would be wrong to come all this way and not visit the famed chocolate shop of Krakowska Manufaktura Czekolady. It's an extraordinary display of cakes and hot drinks to warm you up after a full day out. Although the restaurants around the main square have beautiful views, I feel that they are somewhat overpriced and food is not always reliable. If you are happy to walk 10 minutes south to Pod Baranem restaurant, you will be pleasantly surprised at the slick service and delicious food on offer. Day Three The Nazis renamed the small town of Oswiecim, 44 miles west of Krakow, as Auschwitz in their Germanisation programme of Poland. Here, they established a series of concentration camps, where at least 1.3 million people were deported. Today, visitors can see the original brick barracks at the Auschwitz I camp, and the bleak, terrible expanse of Birkenau. Displays include mounds of shoes belonging to the prisoners and 40kg of glasses, collected as plunder. Independent visitors must reserve tickets in advance to guarantee access. You may find it easier to book a tour, so we can discuss the options for you – including coach travel and guide. A lovely last evening might be spent tasting some of the local beer then dining at Albertina Restaurant & Wine – Polish cuisine with a Mediterranean twist! Also, Albertina can boast Poland's only ‘Enomatic system’ of self-service wine dispensers, with a superb range of 32 wines to buy by the glass. Just make sure you can get up for your flight tomorrow! My top tip for travel in Krakow? Watch your step! The streets are shared by cars, trams and buses, and jaywalking is an offence. Enjoy your trip!