Untouched Italy
The region is conveniently served by two airports, Bari and Brindisi making it a very accessible destination. Whether you are after history, culture, glorious beaches, gastronomy, unique or pampering properties, Puglia has the whole kit & caboodle. Our trip started with a visit to a number of masserias (typically inland former agricultural estates) and their corresponding beach clubs - for the ultimate in luxury, incorporate a few nights at the glorious Borgo Egnazia. A recreated authentic village with ‘town square’ where lavish dinners are held, olive groves as far as the eye can see, local stone buildings draped in carpets of magenta bougainvillea and dreamy, sophisticated interiors, which at night are lit with pillar candles, lanterns and festoon lights.
The Pugliese take great pride in their food & culinary traditions and you literally cannot step a foot wrong. Morning typically started with a strong americano and a ‘pasticiotto’ - a light as a feather pastry case, containing egg custard or a flavoured ricotta cheese filling. Try to schedule in a local food market day too - where you can find local specialities such as black olive & onion tarrali biscuits (which go perfectly with a chilled glass of rosé) biscotti in numerous flavours and a mind boggling selecting of pastas all with their very own specific use. A personal discovery was ‘maritati’ pasta (known as ‘marriage pasta’, marrying the female pasta - orrechiette - with the male pasta, macaroni) typically representing the traditional Sunday lunch dish.
Beach life is certainly a part of life in this area of Italy - with a large choice of sandy stretches and rocky coves. Typically the Ionian coast line is sandier with calmer waters whereas the Adriatic coast is rockier. If you are staying a distance from the coast, try to factor in a day at the beach - many beach clubs offer a day pass. We whiled away the afternoon at the Coccaro Beach Club - enjoy a big plate of clam tagliolini and a glass of wine and then slope off to your lounger on the bathing deck for an afternoon in the sun.
Although you could easily immerse yourself in a standalone beach holiday, try to peel yourself away for some (in my view) unmissable day trips. Alberobello first off, is known for its stone whitewashed huts with conical roofs. A magical, almost fairytale village where you can spend a few hours exploring. Then on to Ostuni - a hillside maze of cobbled streets & hidden staircases where you will find quaint restaurants, cafes and its 15th Century gothic cathedral with glorious views of the countryside below and the Adriatic beyond. Venture further south and try to allow for a couple of days in the city of Lecce, a small university city where at every turn you’ll find glorious baroque architecture and cool sandstone passageways where you can escape the sun - the temperature hit 36 degrees on our visit so the cool, shaded side streets were certainly welcome! For a real treat, book a table for lunch at La Fiermontina, on the garden terrace under the dappled shade of ancient olive trees.
If you’re after authenticity, an escape from the crowds, genuine warm & friendly welcomes and the food of your dreams, look no further.