The Big Easy
This trip was just a taster at four nights, but I loved every minute and we packed in plenty. With a direct service from Heathrow, NOLA is very easy to reach and while the airport on arrival is a little like stepping into a time warp, the new terminal due to open in 2019 promises to improve the arrival experience.
In fact, New Orleans itself feels a bit of a time warp in places, or perhaps just grittier than most other US cities. Its rich heritage is in abundance: Creole food, jazz music, street dancing, colourful buildings and a laid-back pace of life. The older parts of town transported me to the Caribbean or Cuba but turn a corner and you’ll find the latest trendy air-conditioned bar or boutique shop - it’s quite an eclectic mix.
We wasted no time getting into the spirit of NOLA life, heading straight to Bourbon Street in the French Quarter on our first evening. Wander past neon fronted bars with your drink of choice in hand, the beat of live music pouring from a nearby bar or busking band; catch a beaded necklace flung down from a balcony. July is officially off season but there are still plenty of tourists out on the streets enjoying the party vibe. We made our way to Pat O’Brian’s, home of the Hurricane cocktail; New Orleans is where the cocktail was invented so it would have been rude not to!
Our recovery the next morning was made easier with a leisurely jazz brunch at The Court of Two Sisters, which I can heartily recommend. A delicious, extensive buffet and a lovely atmosphere in a quaint courtyard filled with fountains, plants and vines, rounded off with the soothing tunes of a jazz quartet. Perfect!
Feeling invigorated we headed out to wander the streets of the French Quarter. This part of town wasn’t hit by Katrina, so you’ll find plenty of original buildings full of character with French and Spanish heritage: cast iron balconies and terraces with pots of hanging flowers, hidden courtyards and Creole townhouses full of antique shops, art galleries, boutiques, bars and restaurants. Spot buskers along the way, tap dancing on a sidewalk or pulling in a crowd for some impromptu pavement jazz – generally accompanied by a few flailing, shirtless bodies gyrating to the beat! It’s quite a spectacle that’s sure to raise a smile, and I have no idea how they do it in that heat! If the heat is too much for you to bear while exploring, join a mule-drawn carriage tour and spare yourself the swollen ankles.
But NOLA isn’t just the French Quarter. Hop on a streetcar, hire a bike or join a tour to explore the suburbs. We had time for a short tour which took us to one of the huge gothic cemeteries just out of town – literally hundreds of tombs and burial chambers, all above ground because the land is too swampy for six feet burials. Hearing stories along the way we passed through the leafy suburbs of the Garden District, admiring colourful houses and grand columned mansions (trying and failing to spot famous residents like Beyoncé and Matthew McConaughey), and took a stop at the lovely City Park with its sculpture garden and trailing Spanish Moss.
Out of town it’s well worth including a plantation visit or two. We headed to Oak Alley and Houmas House Plantations and heard the stories of both masters and slaves. Situated alongside the Mississippi the air is fresher here and the gardens are beautiful, with tree lined entrances leading to the “Big House”. Enjoy a delicious meal with excellent southern hospitality, and if you have the time, extend your city stay with a night or two here for a change of pace.
You’ll also find swamps on this side of town, and where there are swamps there is plenty of wildlife. From our swamp boat trip, we spotted racoons, turtles and, of course, alligators! Plenty of them too and hearing the stories of the trappers and taking in the views from the boat makes this another highly recommended activity.
Our final night was another unmissable treat, with a sunset dinner cruise on Steamboat Natchez, “the last authentic Steamboat on the Mighty Mississippi!”. Again, fabulous live jazz, a great atmosphere, delicious food and a lovely way to pass a few hours.
From the river to Frenchman Street for a spot of shopping in the artisan outdoor night markets (which I loved – could have done with another evening here!) and a final hit of live music, cocktails and dancing. This is a less trashy option than Bourbon Street, you’ll find no neon cocktails here! It’s no less fun though and the live band we came across on a nearby street corner were fabulous as was the accompanying street party. Big (sweaty) smiles all round!
One final day to try to recover before our evening flight back to Blighty. More street wandering, a spot of discounted shopping in the outlet, a well-earned foot massage and a last cheeky cocktail at the circular Carousel Bar at Hotel Monteleone. Take a seat at the famous revolving bar, adorned with twinkling lights and gilded mirrors – don’t mind if I do!
Lonely Planet says, “The things that make life worth living – eating, drinking and the making of merriment – are the air that New Orleans breathes,” and that just about sums it up. I love NOLA, and I’ll be back!
Thank you to Travel Counsellors, New Orleans Tourism, Louisiana Tourism and British Airways for making it happen.
