22 August 2023

We were on the Valiant Lady for a 7 night round trip cruise from Barcelona, taking in Toulon (France), La Spezia (Italy) Adjaccio (Corsica) and an overnight at Ibiza. All 4 Virgin Voyages ships are identical in terms of size, venues and layout. Carrying a maximum of 2,400 passengers, they are classed as a mid size cruise ship. All are currently adult-only with 2 ships operating out of Miami and the others sailing around the Eastern and Western Mediterranean. Virgin Voyages have a green ethos throughout. This begins with their app (rather than paper tickets ) - create an account using the email address associated with your booking and you can complete your checkin in a few easy steps. This makes turning up at your embarkation port a breeze - passport and smart phone in hand - and you are quickly onboard. You can also use the app to prebook dining reservations up to 120 days ahead - Virgin Voyages don’t have a main dining room or fixed dining times, you eat dinner at a choice of 6 upscale and diverse restaurants. The options for breakfast and lunch are 2 leisurely table-service brunches, The Galley with 10 street food options and all day breakfasts, a pizzeria, The Dock House with small meze plates, 24/7 room service and a scooped ice cream parlour. The focus is on made-to-order food (and no buffets) in order to reduce food waste. Virgin Voyages offers some of the best food at sea in my opinion. The ship offers several bars each with a different focus - craft ales, champagne, cocktails etc. a nightclub and the ubiquitous casino. There are no all-inclusive drinks packages onboard. Your cruise fare includes filtered still or sparking waters (no plastic bottles), soft drinks, tea and drip coffee. All other drinks are paid for individually. However you can pre buy a $300 ‘bar tab’ and Virgin gives you a $50 free bonus. The entertainment onboard is modern, fresh and sometimes a little risqué - but incredibly good fun! Half of the shows are ticketed events, and you can pre-book on the app as soon as you connect to the ships’s free wifi. Onboard purchases, access to your pre-booked shows and cabin are driven using the extremely cute wearable technology - a friendship-style wristband that removes 4lb of plastic out of the oceans in it’s production. The whole ship has a high-quality modern, Scandi, chic, industrial feel. The crew wear different, but co-ordinating, casual t-shirts and sports trousers / shorts and appear to be comfortable and happy in their roles. They are all extremely friendly and helpful and we witnessed a real passion to resolve any issue (however small) to your complete satisfaction. Most things can be managed / requested through the app, but the real life customer services desk was always quiet and extremely efficient. The most refreshing thing of all, was the sheer diversity of the passengers - lots of young people, but still lots middle aged and seniors around. People travelling as families, groups of friends, groups of couples and singles. Larger (fluffy) individuals, ‘beautiful people’, gay and straight, Brits, Europeans and a fair few Americans - all happily co-existing and celebrated and welcomed. Is Virgin Voyages for everyone? No. Those who prefer the company of their own kind, traditional cruise dining, formal nights and broadway-style shows may wish to continue with their favoured cruise line. Anyone previously put off by the idea of cruising (and all it used to entail) or anyone open to a diverse environment and looking for a high quality, service driven, full board, top-notch food, 5 star hotel-at-sea experience - go for it! Our strong partnership with Virgin Voyages provides me great cabin rates which I can package with flights for a fully financially protected holiday. Get in touch to find out more.

08 November 2019

Iceland had been on the wish list ever since we had first ventured to Scandinavia in the Summer of 2015 (Norway - fabulous! Read my my other blog about our trip) As you might have gathered from previous holidays, my family love the great outdoors and road trips, so our plan was to drive across Iceland’s South coast visiting as much of the country’s unique geography as possible in the half term break. We had 7 fantastic days: Day 1 – THE NORTHERN LIGHTS Iceland has a very high cost of living, so we decided that we were going to try and mitigate some costs by self-catering a few nights and making packed lunches. So first stop outside of the airport was the local “Bonus”. We always always find it interesting visiting foreign supermarkets! The peninsular where the airport is located is right on top of the mid Atlantic ridge and is a particularly geologically active area. On the way to our accommodation, we stopped at the GUNNUHVER GEOLOTHERMAL AREA, where there’s a 30ft Fumarole of steam constantly erupting from the ground - it's so big, you can see it on Google satellite images! We stayed at HARBOUR VIEW COTTAGES overlooking the sea at Grindavik. We splashed out on a meal and on the walk back through the village we spotted the NORTHERN LIGHTS! Day 2 – THE BLUE LAGOON First stop today – THE BLUE LAGOON. Cited as one of the wonders of the modern world, it’s extremely popular, so you are encouraged to book a slot ahead of time. Beautiful facilities, towels, face mask and a drink included in the entrance price – even the kids enjoyed it! Leaving the Reykjanes Peninsular, we made our way along Iceland’s Ring Road. Our first stop was the LAVA CENTRE – a new exhibition all about Iceland volcanoes. It was really well done, about an hour long stop, but only worth the steep entrance fee if you get a reduced price after 3pm family ticket. Then on to one of Iceland's most impressive waterfalls – SKOGAFOSS – before one of our more unusual stays - THE BARN, VIK - a fantastic new hostel offering double rooms, shared bathrooms, a community kitchen and a really convivial atmosphere! Day 3 – FJADRARGLJUFUR CANYON Being a volcanic island, all of Iceland’s beaches are black. First stop today was the REYNISFJARA BEACH with cliffs of basaltic columns (similar to the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland) and then on to a walk along the ridge of the majestic FJADRARGLJUFUR CANYON, followed by another waterfall stop – SVARTIFOSS – named for it’s black basalt backdrop. Our accommodation tonight was at the furthest East we would travel - FOSSHOTEL GLACIER LAGOON was by far the poshest hotel we stayed in. Ideally positioned for Iceland's best glacier lagoon, it had modern, warm, interconnecting rooms and a fab set menu in the onsite restaurant… and wine was a reasonable (for Iceland) £6.50 per glass! Day 4 – GLACIER LAGOON JOKULSARLON LAGOON and DIAMOND BEACH – this was probably the highlight of the trip. The Vatnajökull glacier is the biggest in Iceland, it’s very close to the coast and big blue icebergs calve into a lake, flow down the short river, into the ocean and then wash back up on the black beach. It was otherworldly and made for some striking photos. Our accommodation tonight was without a restaurant, so we made a stop en route at the SMIDJAN BRUGGHUS in Vik – a burger joint with an onsite microbrewery. Great burgers and great beer, say no more! Day 5 – ICE CAVES We met up with our guide, Johann, for a trip into an ice cave. We boarded his super jeep to take us over the lava field and into the valley on the edge of the MYRDALSJOKULL GLACIER. Crampons and helmets on, we trekked on the ice for about an hour and into a cave in the ice. The area is an alien landscape used for many film locations including Star Wars' Rogue One. Heading back towards the Reykjanes Peninsular and the mid Atlantic ridge, our home for the night was AKURGERDI GUESTHOUSE - a cabin on a horse form with it’s own geo-thermally heated hot tub! Day 6 – THE GOLDEN CIRCLE We were well positioned in Hveragerði to embark on a day long trip around Iceland’s “Golden Circle”. This is an extremely well-trod tourist trail, taking in a handful of key sites close to Reykjavik. The sites include KERID CRATER, GEYSIR GEOTHERMAL AREA (it’s in Iceland that the term Geysir was first coined), GULFOSS waterfall (the biggest in Iceland) and THINGVELLIR NATIONAL PARK – a world heritage site for culture (as the site of the world’s first and oldest parliament) and for nature (sitting directly on an oceanic rift with unique geology and biology). There’s also a couple of foodie destinations – FRIDHEIMAR FARM, where everything on the menu contains the tomatoes that they grow onsite and EFSTIDALUR FARM, where they make their own ice cream, you can visit the cows and play with Brian, the friendly English Sheepdog! Day 7 – THERMAL RIVER Today, we put our swimming costumes on under our clothing as we planned to hike 3km hike up into the hills to visit a thermal valley. It was just like walking in the Lake District, with the strange addition of steam vents and 100°c bubbling hot springs along the way. At the top of the trail, boiling water mixes with glacier melt to make REYKJADALUR RIVER the temperature of a warm bath. However, at only 1°c air temperature, it felt a little crazy stripping down to your underlayers and jumping in! Ever closer to the airport, our final stop was the LAVA TUNNEL – one of the longest lava tubes in Iceland. We took an hour-long tour under the lava field, it was very distinct from a normal cave, with fantastic coloured deposits and remnants of it’s molten origins. FIND OUT FOR YOURSELF: Iceland tourism has been steadily booming for the last 10 years and there is now a wealth of accommodation, unique sites and activities making it a year-round destination. Summer brings endless days, warmer weather and the midnight sun. Winter brings cosy nights, snow and the Northern Lights. There are plenty of things to see in and round the capital (Reykjavik) for shorter breaks. The South Coast delivers some of the country’s most iconic sights, all within a 5 hour drive of the airport and suitable for longer stays. Whilst the 850 mile long Ring Road, allows you to conveniently see ALL of the country’s highlight’s over a 3 or 4 week period. Get in touch for expert help planning your own Icelandic adventure!

05 December 2018

MAXIMISE YOUR TIME 1. Where possible, visit the quietest park on each day. 2. On morning visits, arrive at the park turnstiles 15/30 mins before “official” opening (rides are quietest first thing). 3. Staying onsite? Use the 30 mins early entry and arrive 15/30 mins before this time. 4. Use a lanyard or pockets for your phone, cards and money to avoid the bag inspection queue. 5. Identify your family’s must-do rides for each park and visit in order of popularity (morning) or reverse order (evening). 6. Download the park apps to monitor wait times and help you decide which attraction to visit next. 7. Rides are quieter during parades / fireworks. 7. Purchase Genie+ but prioritise for days at Magic Kingdom and Hollywood Studios. 7. Make reservations for any sit-down meals you want to take. 8. Eat your meals earlier or later than normal to avoid the busiest times. 9. Use the Disney app to ‘Mobile Order’ quick service meals ahead of time. 10. Visiting in a large group? When one person goes to the bathroom, all go to the bathroom (Trust me!). SAVING MONEY 1. Visit a supermarket early in your holiday and buy drinks, breakfast items, snacks and fruit. 2. You can take your own food and drink into the parks (except alcohol and glass). 3. All counter service restaurants will give you a free cup of iced water. 4. Expect rain. Bring ponchos or your rain jackets from home – park versions are expensive! 5. Download the Uber app for cheaper taxi journeys. 6. Plan ahead and buy a US SIM or extra plan data (for mapping /directions, park apps and Uber). 7. Pre-order inexpensive car seats / strollers from Walmart and collect on arrival. 8. Self-catering? Take a few bin bags, dishwasher / laundry tabs, dishcloth / antibacterial wipes from home - huge pack sizes in the US mean extra expense and lots of waste. 9. No car? You can order supplies from Instacart / Garden Grocer / Walmart and have them delivered to your resort. 10. There are free activities at all the Disney hotels - they’re open to everyone! STAYING ORGANISED IN YOUR HOTEL ROOM 1. Bring a pop up laundry basket 2. Hang an over-door shoe organizer for suncreams, toiletries etc. 3. Bring a four way adapter and/or extension lead and charging cables 4. Lay out clothes, underwear, shoes, park bags the night before an early start 5. Consider using packing cubes to keep family members cloths separate and organised either in your cases or drawers. EATING & DRINKING IN PARKS 1. Bring collapsible cups or collapsible / refillable water bottles - a carabena means you can hook it onto your bag. 2. Robinsons mini concentrates help make the free cups of iced water taste better. 3. Consider reuseable straws for fountain drinks. 4. Sporks are handy for eating on the go, especially at Epcot food festivals. 5. Sandwich bags can be used for leftover snacks. KEEPING COOL & STAYING DRY 1. Take cooling towels and rechargeable hand fan (enhanced by a water spray / Evian canister). 2. Use a flannel to dry yourself or wipe down wet ride / show seats. 3. Take a Ziploc bag to protect your mobile phone on water rides. 4. Use a plastic bag inside your park bag for wet items. 5. Cover pushchairs with a rain cover / poncho when you enter a ride in case there’s a sudden downpour. 6. Consider waterproof shoes (e.g. Crocs) or multiple sets of park shoes for consecutive days of rain. 7. Buy a cool box and keep it in your car filled with ice, drinks and flannels for a blissful freshen up after the park. 8. Keep your swim gear in the car for impromptu waterpark visits on the way back to your accommodation. 9. Take a jumper for air-conditioned restaurants at night – it can be cold! AVOIDING FAMILY MELTDOWNS 1. Measure the kids and check against ride height requirements before you travel. 2. Don’t over schedule - plan for breaks and pool time. Avoid late night fireworks followed by early morning starts. 3. Consider taking a pushchair for children even if they don’t use one at home (or pre-order one from Walmart). 4. Take pics of your passports, park passes, vehicle. Store the number for your hotel, villa, car hire company. 5. Staying onsite without a car? Consider Uber when you’re pushed for time, travelling early or for must-do reservations. 6. Take a photo of your parking location before you leave the car. 7. Use rider switch service. If one child doesn’t ride, other family members ride separately without queuing twice. 8. Take your comfy, worn in shoes – you can clock 12 miles per day walking around the parks! 9. When it’s really hot and humid, consider chaffing gel or compression underwear. 10. Consider anti sickness tablets / bands for vulnerable members of your party. 11. All parks have first aid and baby care centres along with cool, quiet break areas. 12. Bring a spare set of clothes into the park so little ones can play in the splash zones or change after a water ride. 13. Set a souvenir budget and stick to it by pre-loading gift cards for each child. 14. or buy inexpensive souvenirs in the UK / at the US outlets and have them ready when the kids ask. 15. For night time parades / shows, bring inexpensive glow sticks from the UK. Park versions are expensive. 16. Hang around after the fireworks to avoid exit crowds. If you’re staying onsite, order an Uber to skip the bus line. YOUR PHONE IS YOUR BEST FRIEND 1. Take plenty of chargers, adaptors and an extension lead so you can charge all your family’s devices each night. 2. Park apps use lots of power – take an external power pack or consider using Disney’s Fuel Rod system. 3. Disney photographers will take pictures with your phone if you ask. 4. Install a weather app so you know what to wear and what to bring to the parks each day. 5. Get storm alerts. Many outdoor rides close temporarily if lightning is nearby - you’ll know when NOT to get in line. 6. Take a pic of your Lightning Lane reservation and save it to your lock screen, saving you power and time to check. 7. Set vibrate alarms for dining reservations and when to book your next Lightning Lane. 8. Make sure you have data / texts / calls whilst in the US, so you can communicate if your group splits up. 9. Download try Disney Play in the app and games like Heads Up to pass the time in line.

05 December 2018

In 2018 my kids were 15 and 12, so we felt it was time to venture a little bit further with our main holiday. We considered many parts of the globe, with China finally coming out on top by offering the best value on things to see and do versus overall costs. There were the obvious sights like the Great Wall and the Terracotta Armies to consider, but the more I read about China's wealth of stunning landscapes, cities, history and culture, the longer the to do list became! We eventually managed to whittle our trip down to six fantastic destinations. Here's the first three: BEIJING We started by visiting Chairman Mao in his Mausoleum – a bit macabre maybe, but it was interesting to see the devotion of the Chinese people to their former leader. Then on to Tiananmen Square, one of the largest city spaces in the world, which leads directly onto the Forbidden City – a huge site comprising of hundreds of buildings and temples completely enclosed behind a massive town wall. This was the private palace for the Chinese emperors from the 15th to the 20th century and has the architecture and artefacts to reflect this. TIP 1: As a tourist in China you’re obliged to carry your passport at all times. You almost always need it when buying museum tickets or to get through security checks at key locations like Tiananmen Square. We had lunch at a little restaurant in Northern Beijing’s “Hutong” district – a maze of old-world alleys. Dinner was in a popular Peking Duck restaurant, where the language barrier made for an entertaining exchange with our waiter – which was all part of the experience! TIP 2: Even in large Chinese cities, very few people speak any English. Carry a card with your destination written down in Chinese characters (to hand to your taxi driver) and download Google Translate and Pleco with a few key phrases bookmarked. The next day was our trip to the great wall. The most popular restored sections are a 60- to 90-minute drive North of Beijing. We’d organised a driver ahead of time, so we could arrive around 9am. We found ourselves almost completely alone (which made for some great pictures) and we had a few hours to explore before heading down by toboggan! The Great Wall is probably be the most visited attraction in all of China and it was a tiring, full day, but it was totally worth the effort! TIP 3: Domestic tourism within China is huge. This can make attractions extremely busy, particularly on weekends. Arrive at the most popular sites early to avoid the crowds. One of the best ways to cover long distances in China is by sleeper train. I think we were the only foreigners on board from Beijing to Xi’an - it was good fun and definitely an experience! If this isn’t quite for you, there’s also plenty of flights and daytime bullet trains along the same route. TIP 4: Overland trains are popular, and tickets often sell out. Tickets can be purchased 30 days ahead of time through online agents (including me!) XI’AN Arriving at 7am on Sunday - we went straight from the train to the Terracotta Warriors Museum. Discovered by accident in the 1970s, you can see the oddly shaped grassy hill that makes up Emperor’s tomb from miles away - makes you wonder how they missed it! With thousands of soldiers still to uncover, the dig and restoration will continue for decades. TIP 5: The warriors are a 40-minute drive outside of Xi’an city. The easiest way to get there is by taxi and then hire a private guide to bring the huge site to life. We stayed in a centrally located modern hotel. Xi’an is a thriving city with a fantastic shopping/restaurant/bar scene. It’s a much larger city than you would imagine, with a historic Muslim centre (owing to its position at the start of the silk road). The city walls contain the oldest parts of the city and are pleasant for an evening walk or to circumnavigate by bicycle, as we did. TIP 6: Choose a hotel within Xi’an’s city walls to make the most of visiting the Muslim Quarter and Xian’s historic sites. China’s fantastic train network opens several worthwhile day trips from Xi’an. We chose to visit Mount Huashan, one of China’s five sacred mountains housing several influential Taoist temples. Starting with what had to be one of the world’s steepest and best cable car rides, followed by winding trails, stupendous views and good-natured locals, this was one of the most memorable days of our whole trip. As a popular pilgrimage site, the mountain hosts plenty of facilities - a hotel, restaurant, shops and toilets! TIP 7: Public toilets in China rarely offer paper or soap, so carry your own supply of tissues and hand sanitiser. TIP 8: Only large western hotels and restaurants accept card payments - always carry cash. Xi’an is one of the jumping off point into Tibet, and that’s where we were headed next. LHASA A three-hour flight from Xi’an, Tibet has controversially been a part of China since 1949. With a distinct cultural heritage, an extremely remote location and 12,000 feet above sea level, this is a truly unique place to visit. The first afternoon was spent getting used to the altitude, sampling some of the local cuisine (delicious!) and taking our first footsteps out into the Jokhang Square and the Barkhor Circuit. The ancient city centre is filled with a strange mix of locals, tourists, police and traditionally dressed pilgrims from all corners of China – it was like stepping on to a film set! TIP 9: Foreign tourists are welcome in Tibet, but you do require a permit. These are free of charge but must be obtained by your local guide ahead of time. Next morning, we had acclimatised quite well and set off for our timed slot to enter the Potala Palace. First built in the 7th Century, the site has been continually added to and extended, serving as home to successive Dalai Lamas for over 300 years. We spent the afternoon at the Sera Monastery touring the various buildings and watching the famous monk debating. On our final day, we visited the Jokhang Temple – the spiritual centre of Tibetan Buddhism - before heading out of the city to see Yamdrok Lake and view the distant Himalayan mountains. Everywhere you looked was an Instagram photo! TIP 10: The Internet is restricted in China, with no access to Google and social media. Register for a Virtual Private Network account (VPN) before you travel so you can work around the restrictions. Our afternoon flight took us back to mainland China and the provincial capital of Sichuan.

11 June 2018

A cheeky city break - that’s what we needed! After a convenient Friday teatime flight from Liverpool and an easy train to our hotel, we were sat in the bar by 9pm having a cocktail! Me and the kids all love history and Berlin has some world-famous monuments, so this was going to be a weekend of museums, parks, iconic sites, pop culture, along with the obligatory bratwurst, sauerkraut and beer. Prost! WORD WAR II Day one was going to be all about World War II. I’d found a guided tour of the air raid shelters built into the subway system. A quick metro ride North of the city, Berliner Unterwelten was our first stop. 90 minutes sounds like a long time, but the kids absolutely loved our guided tour. Entering via a secret door in a metro station, it was fascinating insight into the minds of the Nazi elite and brought home the terrible suffering of Berliners during the last few months of the war – not something you often think about. Tickets can only be purchased from the onsite ticket office – €12 each. The Holocaust memorial is an open area of massive concrete blocks arranged standing in rigid formation – you’re encouraged to walk through them on the way to the small underground museum. Clearly very sombre, the museum’s most interesting exhibit documents the history and fates of several Jewish families rounded up from all over Europe – France, Poland, The Netherlands and as far away as Greece! Free entry. Not too far away is Hitler’s infamous war bunker. The Russians completely destroyed it during the weeks following the war, so it’s now an unassuming carpark to a little apartment building - we had to go and see the spot anyway! There were Nazi bunkers all over Berlin, most were destroyed, but there is still one intact, currently buried near the Brandenburg Gate. Hopefully, when the Germany and Berlin are ready, it might well be restored and opened to the public. This is free. Our final stop was the ”Topography of Terror” museum – on the site of the SS and Gestapo headquarters, it documents the control, terror and propaganda in Berlin and wider Germany from 1933 to 1945. There’s free entry. Evening was a lovely dinner in a traditional rotisserie restaurant followed by a go up the Communist era Space Needle for a fantastic night-time view over the city. It’s €10/15 each and you can buy fast track tickets ahead of time online. BERLIN CULTURE You can book a slot to visit the Reichstag and Norman Foster’s fantastic glass dome extension (built after the reunification). The site of the German government, it’s a beautiful building and offers up fab views of the city. We followed this with a lovely breakfast on the banks of the Spree river. Time slots can be booked online ahead of time. Free of charge. I’d read that Berlin was home to Nefertiti's Bust. It’s housed in the Nues Museum - part of complex of 7 world-class museums on an island in the middle of the Spree river. The whole site is UNESCO listed. The museums also host the Ishtar Gate, which is a collection of azure blue tiles that used to form the façade on one of ancient Babylon’s city gates. The reconstruction is 3 storeys high, housed is a huge hall - it’s scale, grandeur and shock of colour are absolutely astounding! You can book entry ticket to Museum island very easily online – €12 for 1 museum, €18 for all 7 museums and free for under 18s. Of course, no trip to Berlin would be complete without a trip to the Brandenburg gate – built in the 18th century as a gate into the Prussian capital – selfie time! This is free. Final stop of the day was Berlin Zoo - as the most visited zoo in the world, it offers the most comprehensive collection of species of any other zoo. The highlights were the polar bears, the condors and 2 giant pandas that have come from the Chengdu Panda Base in China. €41 for a family ticket online or at the ticket office. Evening entertainment was dinner in a traditional German restaurant followed by a 3D IMAX film (Infinity War – amazing!) in the iconic Sony centre. We booked online, and it was €16 each. THE COLD WAR Our final day before heading back to the airport was focused on The Cold War. First stop was the Wall Memorial. There’s a little museum onsite and then an outdoor exhibition with preserved parts of the wall running for one kilometre with signposts explaining the history, why the wall was built and the impact it had on Berliners and the world. This is free. We then found the East Side Gallery – another preserved section of the wall that has been turned into a modern art gallery. This is free. We finished with a trip to Checkpoint Charlie – infamous crossing point for foreigners and diplomats. There’s also a museum onsite which very thoroughly tells some sad family stories and the lengths that people went to escape East Berlin to the West – think hiding in suitcases and car engines! It’s €10/15 each and you can buy fast track tickets ahead of time online. Berlin is a fascinating city to visit, with the benefit that many attractions are free of charge. It’s easy to get around as the metro system is extremely comprehensive and has bilingual ticket machines. There’s no language barrier and the restaurant and bar scene are fantastic. We thoroughly enjoyed it as a family, but this trip would suit couples and groups as well.

09 March 2018

I’m a science geek! Growing up I was aware (ten years ahead of time) that a solar eclipse was going to cross the UK in 1999. Long story short, I didn’t quite make it down to Cornwall that year but seeing a total eclipse has been at the very top of my bucket list ever since. I’m not sure when I first became aware of the 2017 eclipse, but with a viewing path stretching coast to coast across America, taking place during the summer holidays with a good chance of clear skies, it seemed like my very best opportunity to witness one. My family aren’t quite as nerdy as me, so successfully selling this trip meant building their must-dos into the itinerary too. As a result, the holiday became an epic 2,150 mile road trip incorporating Washington DC for my son, the great outdoors for my husband and shooting guns for my 11-year-old daughter! WASHINGTON DC: ECLIPSE T-11 DAYS As a pre-planned city, Washington is really pleasant to tour. The focal point is the mile-long National Mall, with the Capitol Building at one end, the Lincoln Memorial at the other, Washington’s monument in the middle and 11 Smithsonian museums round its perimeter. We started at the National Archives and got to see the founding documents of the nation, then there was the obligatory stop outside Donald Trump’s current place of residence, a trip to the National Air and Space Museum and Arlington Cemetery where the nation’s military are buried alongside JFK. We stayed in Alexandria, a pretty suburb on the banks of the Potomac River. Its main street is full of restaurants and shops and it was just a short subway journey to the city. SHENANDOAH NATIONAL PARK & THE BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY: ECLIPSE -10 DAYS Leaving DC, we visited George Washington’s family home and learned about life there as a slave. Many of America’s founding fathers had plantations and owned slaves - in seemingly complete contradiction to The Bill of Rights which they helped to write! For the next few days we drove along the ridge of the Appalachian Mountains, out of Virginia into North Carolina, on a lovely sweeping road that offers up fantastic vistas of undulating tree covered mountains as far as the eye can see. Our days were filled with driving, spotting wildlife and avoiding bears whilst out walking! By night we stayed a historic mountain lodges, ate meatloaf and listened to live Mountain Music and Blue Grass - bliss. THE SMOKY MOUNTAINS & MOONSHINE: ECLIPSE -6 DAYS We entered Tennessee as we crossed over the Smoky Mountains. Clingman's dome is the highest point in this range and has an ugly 1960s style concrete viewing platform at the top in order to appreciate the sweeping views - but it was cloudy. Just inches from the park boundary is the town of Gatlinburg - a gaudy parade of shops, attractions, restaurants and bars (a bit like Blackpool) but we loved it! Moonshine is the drink of choice, and several homegrown distilleries offer tasting sessions that are akin to live theatre. Needless to say, we were convinced to buy several bottles for our onward journey! DOLLYWOOD: ECLIPSE -5 DAYS We rested up for a few nights in Dolly’s DreamMore Resort situated in her hometown of Pigeon Forge. It's fantastically set up for families and was a luxury respite from motels. Her theme park came as a bit of a surprise; it was a fantastic day out and easily on par with the likes of Busch Gardens in Florida. We all arrived liking Dolly Parton but came away loving her! JACK DANIEL’S & GUNS: ECLIPSE -3 DAYS En route to Nashville, we stopped at the Jack Daniel’s distillery. I really don’t like the taste of it, but the reminiscent billboard ads on the London underground had worked their magic - we had to visit! Unlike a lot of other distillers around the world, all of Jack Daniels is made onsite in Lynchburg. Taking water from their natural spring, they employ an age-old process using only locally sourced ingredients, materials and people. And then on to the highlight of the holiday for my daughter. I had scoured the internet to find a gun range where she met the minimum age - Hello Nashville, Tennessee! The US gun laws are obviously controversial, but we really enjoyed shooting several different firearms - it was safe and well organised. NASHVILLE: ECLIPSE -2 DAYS Home of Country Music with a lively weekend clientele, this is a friendly city with lots of museums and iconic music venues. We enjoyed dinner with live music and line dancing and watched American Football. Nashville was getting the eclipse, but we had to push North to get a better view. MIDDLE OF NOWHERE KENTUCKY: ECLIPSE -1 DAY We arrived at our eclipse destination mid-morning... time to do a reccie on our viewing spot, stock up on supplies at the local Walmart (where the checkout assistant quizzed us on whether the UK uses US Dollars or not), visit the local water park (where the life guards took photos of us Brits to post on Facebook) and finish off at the best BBQ joint around (with 99 cent burgers on the menu and food served on Styrofoam plates) - middle of nowhere! ECLIPSE DAY I awoke at 5.50am to check the weather, the skies looked clear, so we drove to our chosen venue for 7.30am. We set up camp with our drinks, snacks and sunoculars and waited. I knew the precise time that the moon would take the first bite out of the sun at this location (11.53am) and after all this time planning, I still couldn't quite believe it when it happened right on cue. Over the next hour and half the sky slowly dimmed and at the point of eclipse cheers went up and we had a perfect view - success! MEMPHIS: ECLIPSE +1 DAY Another great music city - this time it was all about blues. Situated on the Mississippi River, there are loads of iconic spots located on central Beale Street including The Peabody Hotel and BB King's Blues Club. Aside from the music, the highlights for us were the National Civil Rights Museum (on the site of the Lorraine Motel where Martin Luther King was assassinated), Elvis' former home (Graceland) and lunch at Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken (although opinion was divided on whether it was or not!) NEW ORLEANS: ECLIPSE +5 DAYS At the end of our trip, we had a few days to relax in the Big Easy: we stayed at the iconic Roosevelt Hotel. We swam, shopped, watched jazz, toured the city's French Quarter, visited the National WWII Museum, ate beignets and had a trip up the Mississippi on a paddle steamer before finally heading home - tired.

07 February 2018

July 2015: my son and his school friends are discussing where they are going on holiday that summer. When prompted my son replies “Norway”. He receives consolatory shrugs from his friends, and his expression says “yeah, what can you do?” My holiday inspiration comes from images and opinions mined from the internet and travel guides. Deep in research the January before, I came across a beautiful picture taken from a mountaintop, looking down the sides of a green valley into the grey-blue depths of a Norwegian fjord with a tiny cruise ship chugging along in the distance. It stopped me in my tracks. I then found the relevant chapter in Lonely Planet’s guide to The World and its opening gambit read: “Norway is a once-in-a-lifetime destination, and the essence of its appeal is remarkably simple: this is one of the most beautiful countries on earth.” To me, this read like a dare! So, with guidebook in hand, the challenge was accepted, and we set off in August to find out if it really was. Here’s what we did. 1. CLIMBED PULPIT ROCK A huge stone monolith rising above the landscape - a hike to the top offers jaw-dropping and hair-raising views of the Lysefjorden below. Not quite brave enough to hang our legs over the edge, we sent the selfie stick out to capture the 2000-foot drop. 2. EXPLORED THE BRYGGEN WATERFRONT The old wharf at Bergen has been a place of trade for 1000 years. The creaking wooden maze of listed buildings is a fascinating place to explore and served as a stunning backdrop for a beer. 3. SHOT THE RAPIDS ON THE VOSS RIVER The little town synonymous with the posh Nordic mineral water has set itself up as the adventure capital of Western Norway with white-water rafting trips to suit all ages and abilities. 4. KAYAKED ON THE NAEROYFJORD As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this is one of the most dramatic fjords in the world - it's only 250 metres across at its narrowest point! Kayaking was the very best way to appreciate the water, nature and the colossal rock walls. 5. CYCLED THE FLAM RAILWAY Billed as the steepest standard gauge rail line in Europe, its track climbs 2,800 feet from the cruise port of Flam up into the nearby mountains. We took the train up and hired bikes at the top to free wheel down through the beautiful alpine countryside. 6. DROVE THROUGH THE LAERDAL TUNNEL This is the longest road tunnels in the world. Open year round, it provides a vital transport link when the Snow Road over the mountain above closes in Winter. It takes around 25 minutes to drive the 15 miles through and has dramatically lit caves that act as mental rest stops. 7. VISITED A STAVE CHURCH These intricate wooden churches were built in the 12th century to serve small rural communities all over Scandinavia. Only 30 or so remain in the world today, and 28 of them are in Norway. The fairy tale structure at Borgund is the world’s most replicated example. 8. ICE HIKED ON A GLACIER The Jostedalsbreen is the largest glacier in mainland Europe and Nigardsbreen - although remote - is its most accessible finger. We hired a private guide to show us the ropes (quite literally!). 9. RESTORED OUR SPIRITS AT A HISTORIC HOTEL You won’t find many chain hotels in Norway, but what they do have is a wealth of magnificent historic inns. We chose to rest up at The Alexandra in Loen and take advantage of the relaxing pool, great views and famous dinner buffet. Roast reindeer anyone? 10. RODE THE GEIRANGERFJORD FERRY Norway’s fjord geography demands lots and lots of ferries and the 2-hour journey from Hellesylt to Geiranger is cited as one of the world’s most beautiful. 11. TRAVELLED THE TROLL'S ROAD This infamous road between Valldalen and Andalsnes climbs 2,300 feet up the side of a mountain via 11 alarming hairpin bends. 12. PADDLED IN THE ARCTIC CIRCLE Owing to the North Atlantic Current, the beaches on the North-West coast of Norway are as postcard-worthy as the Caribbean. You just can’t help kicking off your shoes and wading in - it’s a bit chilly mind, even in August! 13. STAYED IN A FISHERMAN'S CABIN Known as “rorbuer” and found all over Norway, many of these traditional red cabins have been converted into cosy accommodation. We chose one in the spectacular Lofoten Islands. The view across the fjord from our little deck was perfect with your morning coffee! 14. CHASED THE NORTHERN LIGHTS You don’t normally get to see the Aurora Borealis in August because the night sky never really gets dark enough - land of the midnight sun and all that! However, a chance encounter with a local enthusiast and we found ourselves heading out on a foolhardy adventure in the middle of the night. We were successful, but my pictures weren't up to much! 15. SAILED ALONGSIDE WHALES Ocean depths fall very steeply just a few miles off the Northern coast of Norway providing excellent opportunities to spot the world’s largest living creatures. It was cold, windy and rough when we headed out on our sea safari, but I’d happily do it all again to meet "Glen" the sperm whale. You've probably guessed, but Norway did not disappoint. And after a 16-day visual overload, I really do agree with Lonely Planet’s extremely bold claim. And my initially reticent 13-year-old? He still rates it as his number one holiday... ever! FIND OUT FOR YOURSELF: We chose a relatively cheap flight to Stavanger, hired a car and drove North stopping at interesting hostels and lodges along the way. This allowed us ultimate flexibility in seeing and doing everything that Norway had to offer. The flipside being that the food in Norway isn't particularly memorable and cost of living is quite high - something you need to budget and prepare for. The easiest way to get a taste of Norway is on a cruise. All the major operators have itineraries departing from Southampton incorporating a combination of the key ports - Stavanger, Bergen, Flam, Geiranger and Alesund. These cruises have the benefit of no flying, only having to unpack once and fantastic dining included the price. In my view, the Hurtigruten offers the best of both worlds. They have a fleet of ships travelling up and down the full length of Norway's coastline, stopping daily at 34 ports between Bergen and the Russian Coast. You can choose a 1 to 12-day voyage, facilities and food are akin to a cruise ship and they offer 90 land-based excursions - everything from city tours, husky sledging and kayaking.