08 September 2021

Last week, we spent a few days enjoying a short round trip Mediterranean cruise between Barcelona and Sardinia aboard Norwegian Cruise Line’s ship, The Epic. Flying with British Airways from Heathrow, we boarded the boat in Barcelona in the late afternoon, spent the following day at sea, before arriving into the port capital of Sardinia, Cagliari, at dawn on day three. We disembarked the ship for the day, heading off to visit Nora, one of the best kept archaeological sites on the island, on an organised tour. That evening, the ship left Cagliari, sailing back into the Mediterranean. Day four of our trip was another ‘sea day’ before we arrived back into Barcelona’s cruise ship port on the morning of day five. From there, we made the short journey to the airport to catch our return flight to London. Although it was a quick trip, this cruise was a great opportunity to get back into traveling internationally (it’s our first overseas holiday since January 2020) and was long enough to sample the hospitality available on The Epic. We had been concerned that with all the new requirements brought about by COVID-19 (vaccination certificates/test result confirmations/passenger locator forms) that something was bound to go wrong - especially on such a short multi-country/multi-transport cruise ship holiday. However, we were pleasantly surprised at how well-organised Norwegian Cruise Lines and British Airways were. All the transfers were seamlessly handled, embarkation and disembarkation from the ship were very smooth, and onboard COVID-19 testing (performed by a professional, third-party supplier) was very well-handled (all passengers were tested for COVID-19 during embarkation in Barcelona and at sea on day four of our sail). There are a number of advantages to cruising as opposed to a traditional land holiday. Cruise ships are essentially floating, moving hotels and so what’s great is to be able to unpack once at the start of your trip and know that you’ll be able to visit more than one destination without worrying about repacking again until the end of your holiday. Another advantage is typically arriving into destination ports at sunrise and leaving them at sunset when the light and atmosphere are at their best. Travelling by sea (as opposed to on land or by air) offers you an entirely different perspective on the places you visit, and with its leisurely approach harks back to a more elegant and immersive time for travel. Ash is a keen photographer and was so pleased that I woke him up to capture sunrise over Cagliari! Similarly, so long as you have a cabin with a balcony or a window, you’ll be guaranteed a fantastic sea view! Our experience aboard The Epic may have been short but it was very sweet. We couldn’t fault the friendliness of the crew, the quality of the service, nor the standard of the facilities. The Epic is aimed at families so there’s something for everyone - from a kids’ waterpark and climbing wall to an outdoor cinema, through to high quality musical entertainment (we thoroughly enjoyed a theatre production of Priscilla Queen of the Desert) and several fine dining options, we were thoroughly spoilt during our cruise. Norwegian Cruise Lines had even created an onboard running track, basketball court and fully stocked gym in case we wanted to run some of that excess off (we didn’t!). At a time that’s been so awful for the travel industry - and cruising in particular - it was heart-warming to see such a joyous, international crew aboard a cruise ship full of life and smiles doing what they love. “It’s good to be back,” is what we heard from several of the crew - indeed it is…really good.

16 October 2020

Ash and I had planned to celebrate our fifteenth wedding anniversary, (30th September 2020) in the Greek Isles, where we first said our ‘I Do’s’ on the stunning island of Santorini. However, with all the uncertainty around overseas travel we opted to return to one of our other favourite places Scotland, for another Highland fling. Scotland holds a very dear place in our hearts, we lived in Edinburgh for 5 years, (2011-2015) and were privileged to experience so much immense beauty and warmth in this stunning country we consider home. We took the opportunity to explore the northerly region in a novel way from our other road trips, via a VW camper van! Using the classic North Coast 500 (NC500) route, which starts and finishes at Inverness Castle, and is 516 miles long, we adapted the route for our own 11-day journey. This allowed us to take in the Orkneys, Lochaber and Fort William. The NC500 can be done west to east in a clockwise direction or east to west, anti-clockwise. We opted for the latter. Picking up our VW camper van just outside Glasgow, our first overnight stop was in Rosemarkie, a small ancient village on the Black Isles, overlooking the Moray Firth. Arriving late into the campsite we couldn’t see much, the next morning however, we were treated to a stunning sunrise from the camper van. After breakfast, we walked south along the white sandy beach to Chanonry Point, this is the ideal place to view Dolphins. Unfortunately, we didn’t spot these beautiful creatures, but were happy to be breathing in the fresh coastal air. From here, we drove up the east coast, visiting the Rogie Falls, and then up past Wick to the spectacular Dunrobin Castle (seat of the Duke of Sutherland). And of course, we had to drop into the Glenmorangie distillery on the road to Wick for a wee dram and to stock up for the journey ahead! Next stop was John O’Groats for the obligatory photograph at Britain’s most north easterly point and serendipity as we discovered that we had been to Lands End, Britain’s most south westerly point for our fifth wedding anniversary. The second leg of our Scottish road trip was from John O’Groats to the Orkney Isles. We always wanted to come to this little archipelago, and it didn’t disappoint...even the ferry journey over from John O’Groats was atmospheric. Steeped in Neolithic history, with the ancient ruined village of Skara Brae and a number of stone circles at its historical centrepiece (World Heritage Sites dating back 5,000 years) we spent a couple of days touring around the main island. Scarpa Flow, which was the scene of some critical action during WW1 and WW2, is also located in the Orkneys, as is the Italian Chapel just east of Scarpa Flow. The Chapel was constructed by Italian POW during WW2. I had read about this place in the book of the same name by Philip Paris, from my book club, nine years previously, so it was a delight to stumble upon this ornate Roman Catholic structure first-hand. During our time in the Orkneys, the Northern Lights had been visible, but we missed them. We didn’t let that spoil our anniversary and celebrated in style with a memorable meal at The Foveran, one of the islands’ best restaurants rounding off a fantastic visit to this far flung part of the UK. After the Orkney Isles, we headed to the very north west of Scotland, to Durness and Cape Wrath, where we discovered the pristine beaches of Ceannabeinne, Sango Sands and Balnakeil, as well as bagging a Munro (a Scottish peak over 3,000 feet) called Ben Hope, we were lucky with the weather for our ascent. Other highlights in the area included Smoo Cave, a spectacular sea cave set into the limestone cliffs with waterfalls which can be viewed from the walkway and the memorial to John Lennon – which was apt as this year would have been John’s 80th Birthday. From Durness we headed south, along the west coast to Port A Bhaigh campsite, in Altandhu just outside Ullapool. Next to the campsite was the Am Fuaran Bar, sustained by a roaring log fire, convivial company and several single malts. This absolute gem gave us the excuse to enjoy a cosy evening in a traditional Highland pub on our one-night stopover. The following morning, we wound our way through The Assynt (the most sparsely populated area in Western Europe), passing through Ullapool (taking in the immense beauty of Loch Ewe) and arrived into Gairloch, a pretty holiday village on the coast, where we sent another night camping by the beach at Sands. From Gairloch, we continued south along the coastal road to the village of Applecross which is the main settlement on the Applecross Peninsula, Wester Ross. The weather came out to play again, and we were treated to a truly stunning drive. From the road on a clear day, you can see the Inner Hebridean islands of Skye, Raasay and several uninhabited ones. The following day, with the fog having reduced visibility to just a few metres, we slowly negotiated the infamous Bealach na Bà, a winding single-track road through the mountains on the peninsula, considered to be the UK’s greatest (and hairiest) road ascent. I only shrieked a few times as Ash navigated his way down the pass. The final leg of our road trip saw us leave the North Coast 500 route and continue south towards Fort William where, if the weather had been better, we would have done an ascent of Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain at 1,345m above sea level. Unfortunately, the forecast wasn’t great so instead we opted for a hike around Glenfinnan (which is where we caught rainbow after rainbow during our 7-mile walk). Glenfinnan is also famous for being the site of where Bonnie Prince Charlie began his rebellion uprising in 1745. It’s also the place where the Jacobite steam train (AKA the Hogwarts Express) runs from Fort William to Mallaig, across the viaduct, a marvel of Victorian engineering and now world famous for it’s appearance in the second (Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets) and third, (Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban) Harry Potter films. As a huge Harry Potter fan this was a real treat. From there, we headed further south through Glencoe, an immense, isolated and menacing valley, which is a climber’s paradise, and completed our journey with a drive along the shores of Loch Lomond before returning our VW camper van.

11 November 2020

January 2020, Ash & I were invited on a 14 day luxury cruise on Seabourn, sailing from Hong Kong to Singapore. Initially we were hesitant to go as we had prejudices cruising. These prejudices were quickly busted and we had a superb time. We look back on this holiday with great fondness as it was our last holiday pre Covid 19. The perception that cruising attracts an older retired clientele is not misplaced but this also depends on the type of cruise you choose. We were on an adult only luxury cruise, so there was a bias towards the older generation who have more time and disposable income. This didn't stop us having a fabulous time. What it highlighted is that life is about mindset not age confirmed by Stan, in his 90’s on the dance floor every night into the small hours. Very quickly got to know many of crew and fellow guests from all corners of the world as there was a family atmosphere onboard. On embarkation day we imagined it to be chaotic like it is at the airport with long queues and lots of hanging around. This was not the case, we were quickly checked in and shown to our cabin where there was a bottle of champagne and canapes to welcome us. The real joy for us was sailing out of Hong Kong. Victoria Harbour is one of the most iconic harbours in the world with its stunning skyline of instantly recognisable skyscrapers. At exactly 11pm when the ship started to sail the entire waterfront was lit up and we were excited for the journey ahead, which took in Ha Long Bay, Da Nang (Hue) and Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) in Vietnam, Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Ko Kood and Bangkok in Thailand and Singapore. Sailing into Ha Long Bay, Vietnam was enthralling. This natural bay is a World UNESCO World Heritage site, famed for its emerald waters and 1,600 limestone islands which greet you as you sail past. They are a wonder of the natural world. Our favourite destination was Vietnam and one that we spent most number of days exploring. On day one we enjoyed a full day on a junk in Ha Long Bay, visiting Hang Co Caves formed of stalagmite and stalactite formations, before moving onto to Da Nang. At Da Nang, we opted for exploring Hoi An, by bike and foot. I hadn’t been on a bike for almost 10 years and was very nervous to start in Vietnam but was persuaded by hubby that this would be a great way to see the city and he was right. Cycling through rural villages and rice fields before arriving at this UNESCO World Heritage site was pure joy. Even the areas with heavy traffic were manageable by a novice cyclists like myself!. The ancient city of Hoi An is well preserved colourful trading port with shops, restaurants, tea houses and temples it’s easy to idle away a few hours. From Hoi An we moved on to the former capital of South Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh City. As lovers of history, we were excited to experience the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City, or Saigon as the locals still like to think of it. Whilst in Saigon we visited the Cu Chi tunnels. Work on this complex of underground tunnels were started in 1948, by the Viet Cong to defeat the French. However they were extended in the 1960’s when war against the Americans started. In total they are a network of 120 miles. I was brave enough to enter the tunnels and it was astonishing just how small they are. Measuring 31 inches in width and 5 feet in height, it is very easy to feel claustrophobic and queasy, as well as worry that you may never get out again, but if you are game it is definitely worth experiencing them first hand as it helps you understand that with this kind of guerrilla war fare tactics, the USA even with all its military might would struggle to win. We also took in the War Remnants Museum and Notre Dame Cathedral, but on a lighter hearted note dancing with cocktail in hand on the rooftop of the famous Rex Hotel and hanging out with the local Harley Davidson enthusiasts was lots of fun. Other itinerary highlights were a private day at Ko Kood Island, Thailand. The tropical unspoilt paradise was idyllic and a real ‘wow’ moment when we arrived. Just when you thought things couldn’t be better, the Seabourn crew made it even more special by cooking up a beach barbeque feast. For the lovers of seafood there was the opportunity to enjoy Caviar and champagne – we stuck to enjoying just the champagne. On sea days there was plenty to do too. We joined the daily Seabourn Conversations with experts on the region sharing their knowledge on a range of topics of the region, from the Silk Route, Queen Victoria, The First Indo-China War, Spice trade and more. There was also a good healthy rivalry with the midday quiz and a fun way to know get to know fellow passengers. In the evening we revelled in the various cultural shows ranging from magic, comedy, West End show tunes as well as late night dancing in the lounge bar. There was also a gym and spa facilities for those looking to stay fit, re-charge or be pampered. If like us you enjoy good food then going on a cruise it’s a foodie haven. The choice of restaurants and food is ample even for a vegetarian like me!!. Whilst cruise companies do cater well for different dietary requirements, it is worth informing the maître de, as they will ensure that the chefs are aware and they can create bespoke dishes if there is nothing on the menu to your liking. One of the highlights is The Grill, by Thomas Keller. Chef Keller is renowned for his take on classic American Restaurant from the 1950’s & 60’s and this is a partnership unique to Seabourn. We dined here a couple times and savoured the culinary delights. We also relished the Sushi restaurant and the themed cuisines, our favourite was the Indian night as we love our spicy curries. On Seabourn all dining experiences including Thomas Keller in-room dining are included in the price as too are the drinks. The exception is premium wines, spirits and champagne. We were very happy with the fine wines onboard, thus offering great value for money. Our Veranda suite was fabulous, bigger than our London apartment with a private balcony, queen sized bed, ample storage space, fully stocked bar with drinks of your choice, double vanity bathroom with a marble bath and shower as well as your own personal suite stewardess – the suite was heavenly. We found cruising to be an enriching holiday experience on so many different levels that I would definitely recommend it once the world re-opens fully for travel.

09 July 2019

If you find yourself in Amsterdam for the weekend and want to experience the city away from the usual tourist traps, here are a few recommendations from my recent visit to this lovely city. I stayed with a friend, Choon Mei, who lives in the Bloemgracht (Flower Canal) area of Amsterdam and experienced the city for 24 hours through her favourite places – it always helps to have local knowledge! Getting to the city from Schiphol Airport. When you arrive at Schiphol airport, my advice would be to follow the signs to take the train into Centraal Station. The train station is next to the airport, it takes only 20mins into the centre of the city, and costs just €5.50. Dinner on the waterfront On Friday night we dined at the Hangar restaurant in Amsterdam North, now a hipster area on the IJ waterfront which is only one stop to Sloterdijk on the train from Centraal Station and hen about a 15-minute walk. The restaurant served delicious, healthy modern European-Dutch food with a Middle Eastern twist, and had a great chilled out vibe. As well plenty of eateries, this part of Amsterdam is a cultural hotspot - home to the world-renowned EYE Film Museum, and world-class music venues including the Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ. On the way back to city, we opted for the Oostveer ferry which is located near the restaurant - a free and wonderful way of seeing the city from a different perspective. Saturday Brunch Kessens on Rozengracht, is a Swedish Cafe where they serve tasty brunch. I had the Welsh Rarebit which was a real treat from the usual avocado on toast. If you get one of the outdoor tables, it’s a great way of watching the world go by. Sightseeing Around the corner from Choon Mei’s apartment in Bloemgracht is ‘Anne Frank’s House’. Although I didn’t visit it on this occasion, I would highly recommend it, especially if like me you read the book as a child and have an interest in WW2 history. It’s a truly fascinating place. I also recommend buying the tickets well in advance as it’s very popular. Close to the Anne Frank House is striking Westerkerk - a Protestant Church between the Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht. The church dates back to 1631 and standing at 58 metres tall is the largest in the Netherlands. Westerkerk is mentioned frequently in Anne Frank’s diary, as the clock-face on the tower could be seen from the attic of the house and describes the chiming of the bells as a source of comfort for her family whilst in hiding from the Nazis. After brunch, we spent the afternoon walking around the trendy Jordaan area starting with the Negan Straatjes (9 streets) where you can find boutique clothes stores, artisan shops selling chocolates, sweets, pancakes, body care products, as well as many antique shops. From there, we took the tram to the Lindengracht and Noordermarkt. These areas hold large farmers’ markets with an extensive range of artisan produce from fresh fish and meat, organic fruit and vegetables, breads, olives, Dutch pancakes, flowers and even clothes, jewellery, and household goods. Choon Mei shops here on a weekly basis and is very popular among the locals. Not far from the markets are the Cheese and Tulip museums, both great places to visit and learn more about the different varieties of these most famous of Dutch products. When you feel like you’ve toured enough why not stop by at the Cafe t’Smalle on Egelantiersgracht and enjoy a beer or two. Alternatively, if you want great views of the city, you could head to the Skylounge at the Doubletree Hilton for drinks. The Doubletree is just next to Centraal Station and is also a great place to stay if you need accommodation or are heading off on an international cruise from Amsterdam Port. In fact, cruising from Amsterdam is increasing popular with U.K. customers who want to combine cruising with a city break. Cheers.

02 July 2019

A “must do” of any trip to Africa is a safari and despite this being our third trip to SA, both of us were really looking forward to the two nights we were going to spend at the Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve. Sabi Sabi consists of a number of luxury lodges all of which are National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World but each aimed at slightly different types of safari holidaymaker. We stayed at the Selati Camp, an adults only lodge which only slept around 16 guests. We arrived at the lodge in time for lunch and were straightaway treated to the sight of two rhinos (a mother and her young) drinking at the watering hole directly in front of the camp. Our good luck continued as on our first afternoon safari (after lunch), our ranger spotted a leopard on the hunt for its dinner. We followed him, at extremely close range, for around 20 minutes before he disappeared into the bush. The next morning, we set off at 6.30am for an early morning game drive and came across another leopard, but this time a female, who was out on the hunt for her breakfast. Along with the leopard, we spotted a herd of elephants, impalas, kudus, wildebeest, zebras and more, together with the occasional waterhog, mongoose, hare and even snake. There were also a lot of colourful birds that put on a great show for us. We discussed what we had seen that morning over a sumptuous champagne breakfast in the bush. On our return to the lodge, we were relaxing on the veranda to our suite when I spotted three giraffes making their way to the watering hole (which we had a direct and uninterrupted view of from our suite). On our second afternoon game drive we were in for more treats as we saw a very playful newly born rhino with its mother at another watering hole on the reserve. It was pure joy to watch this little one finding his feet whilst his mum kept an eye on him. No safari would be complete without seeing the “king of the jungle” and on our last morning just as we thought our luck had run out, a pride of six lions appeared at the watering hole which the lodge overlooked! It was almost as if the lions had come to us rather than us having to seek them out. The sight of these lions was a perfect way to round off not only our safari but also our sixteen days in South Africa.

02 July 2019

I love train journeys, so on this our third trip to South Africa, I booked the iconic luxury Blue Train from Cape Town to Pretoria (capital of SA) for Mr J’s birthday. The 994 mile journey takes 2 days or 31 hours to be precise through the interior of the country, offering spectacular views of the wine lands, mountains and desert. Halfway through the journey the train stops at Kimberly - the centre of diamond mining. Here we were treated to the history of this beautiful gem. As well as the scenery, the service is spectacular too. On arriving at Cape Town railway station, we were directed to an exclusive check in lounge where we were offered sparkling wines and canapés whilst waiting to board the train. Once aboard the train and sitting comfortably in our private cabin (with en suite bathroom) we were introduced to our very own butler who explained the functioning of our cabin and talked us through the itinerary for the next two days. Although we enjoyed watching the world go by from the comfort of our cabin, we spent a lot of time getting to know our fellow passengers in the communal cars of the train. There was the dining car, where gourmet breakfasts, lunches and dinners were served, and two club/bar cars where evening entertainment included a jazz saxophonist and DJ (and where we danced the night away on our second night on the train). My personal favourite place on the train was the observation car at the very rear of the train which had a floor to ceiling window allowing you to enjoy uninterrupted views of the passing landscapes. The Blue Train is a very elegant train journey which harks back to a more glamorous era in travel. Think roaring 20s decadence, mahogany furniture, uniformed waiters wearing white gloves for dinner service. With that in mind, make sure you pack accordingly. For dinner, gentlemen are expected to don a jacket and tie. If you are planning a trip to South Africa and want to experience something a little different or are celebrating a special occasion I would highly recommend a trip on the Blue Train.

02 July 2019

During our sixteen day trip across South Africa, we spent four days in the Drakensberg Mountains - A UNESCO World Heritage region. This part of South Africa, is one of my favourites, but often overlooked by visitors who tend to go for the more popular tourist itineraries of Cape Town, the wine lands and safari. However, if you enjoy hiking then this is a paradise with walks to suit all fitness levels and ages. On this trip, we opted to stay in the Central Drakensberg region as previously we had been to the North Drakensberg (in the Royal Natal National Park, famous for the Amphitheatre and Tugela Falls - the world’s second tallest waterfalls (after Angel Falls in Venezuela). If you are in the “central berg” the most popular areas are Giants Castle (also famous for its ancient Bushman rock art) and Monk’s Cowl. We opted to do a hiking circuit around Monk’s Cowl (which is located in the Champagne Valley of the Central Drakensberg) which took us a leisurely six hours to complete and which involved ascending to 2100m to reach Blindman’s Corner where the views were breath taking. Now direct flights from London to Durban are available with BA, getting to this beautiful part of the world couldn’t be easier

27 June 2019

Just outside of the town of Winterton, deep in heart of KwaZulu-Natal province (the south-east of South Africa), you will find a number of key battleground sites dating back to the Boer War and the Anglo-Zulu Wars including Rorke’s Drift and the Battle of Spionkop. Although you can do a self-guided drive around these sites, given that neither of us knew a huge amount about this period of history, and we didn’t have a 4x4 vehicle (to traverse some of the more challenging “roads”) we thought we could gain a lot from going on an organised tour. So, having booked with Spionkop Lodge to go on their tour of the Spionkop Battlefield, we headed out to Winterton to meet our guide for the day, the utterly charming and hugely knowledgable, Raymond Heard. Over a morning coffee at the Spionkop Lodge, it quickly became clear that Raymond was a leading authority on the battle for Spionkop, having lectured at the Royal Geographical Society in London on the subject. We knew we were going to be in for a treat. From the lodge, we drove with Raymond to Mount Alice, a hill which overlooks Spionkop and from where the British commanded the battle. There is now a monument to the Battle of Spionkop on Mount Alice, and we spent a couple of hours with Raymond there recounting the history of South Africa, and the causes of the Boer War. It was an utterly fascinating chat. From there, we headed to the Spionkop Battlefield itself where Raymond brought the scene to life. We relived the history of this key battle between the Boers (the Dutch settlers in South Africa) and Britain (the colonial power) back in 1899. The Boer War, in the eyes of the British, was only ever meant to last 3 weeks - instead it went on for 3 years and was one of the bloodiest ever fought. To this day, the battle for Spionkop (an otherwise anonymous hill on the plains of KwaZulu-Natal) holds the record for the highest concentration of fatal military casualties in any war fought in the modern era. I discovered that three future world leaders were all present at Spoinkop - Louis Botha (the first PM of a united South Africa), Sir Winston Churchill (who was a young lieutenant) and Mahatma Gandhi (one of many Indian stretcher bearers aiding wounded soldiers that day). Of course, if any of these men had been killed in battle, the world would be a very different place today. The battle of Spionkop also lent its name to many English football stadia. Perhaps most famously, local Merseyside sports journalist Ernest Edwards christened the home end at Anfield, the Spionkop (the “Kop”) as it reminded him of how difficult that hill in South Africa had been to take from the Boers! As the collection of memorabilia at Spionkop Lodge attests to, the connection with Liverpool FC has continued to this day. A truly fascinating few hours, and one I would highly recommend if you are planning a visit to South Africa.

20 June 2019

Whilst on holiday to Cape Town, South Africa, we took the opportunity to go cage diving with Great White Sharks – something which we hadn’t had the opportunity to do on any of our previous visits to this beautiful country. Seeing the Great Whites up close and personal had always been on my husband’s bucket list, so once he realised that from Cape Town you could do this activity in a straightforward day trip, there was no stopping him! I have to admit; I was rather nervous about the whole experience! Nevertheless, we booked our excursion with the hotel, who arranged our transfer down to Gansbaai, the coastal town in the Western Cape which is the centre for shark tours and diving (and one of the few places in the world where you can see Great Whites). The company which we went out to sea with, Marine Dynamics, is considered to be the leading shark tour operator and has excellent environmental tourism credentials. On board our ship, a marine conservationist briefed us on what we were going to see, and the best way to go about getting the most out of our trip. We were very lucky to see both Great Whites and Bronzer Sharks, which circled our boat for over two hours, the largest of the four Great Whites being 4.5 metres in length. And although I suffered from sea sickness and wasn’t overly enthralled about being submerged in the Atlantic Ocean in a cage, the experience of being less than a foot away from these magnificent creatures will live with me forever.

13 June 2019

Greece has always held a special place in my heart from my first ever girls’ holiday to Corfu in 1987, to saying those special words ‘I do’ to Mr J in 2005, on the spectacular island of Santorini. For our 10th wedding anniversary we returned to Santorini, and did some island hopping around a couple of the lesser known Cyclades, Ios and the tiny (but perfectly formed) Folegandros. When hubby suggested we go to Athens for our Easter break, I was very excited as I had never been to the capital, so was really looking forward to this next Ash4Sej adventure. As our flight was early on a Friday morning from London Gatwick, we decided to stay the night before at an airport hotel. I’m glad we did, as it meant that we could start our holiday early and have a leisurely ten minute walk to the terminal (rather than rushing to the airport and getting stressed out like we usually do!) TIP: If you do stay the night at Gatwick airport, and love Indian food, then I highly recommend Jai Ho (263 Balcombe Rd) which is part of The Coppingham Arms - the food is delicious! We stayed at the New Hotel, a modern, stylish boutique hotel located in the historic Plaka district. The hotel gets its name from the owners having dismantled all the fixtures and fittings from the hotel which previously occupied the site, and re-purposed and re-used every item somewhere in the building of the New Hotel. I thought that was genius. The hotel has a rooftop terrace bar and restaurant where you can enjoy stunning panoramic views of the city whilst sipping your favourite tipple. The Sunday brunch here is very popular too. TIP: If you are celebrating a special occasion and to stay somewhere unique, I would recommend staying in the penthouse suite which has direct views of the Acropolis from both beds (one inside and one outside on your private terrace!) After checking in, we headed up the hill on which the Acropolis sits, to get a sense of the city from above. It was an easy 10-15 minute walk from our hotel and despite the 27C temperature, it was really worth seeing the city sprawled out in front of us with the Acropolis behind. In front of the Greek Parliament in Syntagma Square, a special army unit protects the Monument of the Unknown Soldier. We stumbled across the guard being changed, and it was undoubtedly one of the oddest, and most elaborate, military ceremonies we’ve ever witnessed! Using public transport to get to, and around, Athens is very easy. The airport serving Athens is outside of the city itself. On landing, we simply hopped aboard the X95 - a public express bus which leaves from just outside Arrivals – and 50 minutes later were dropped off in Syntagma Square, in the city’s bustling centre. And all for just €6 each. During our four day city break, we actually got out of the city twice, to explore the Athenian Riviera and used public transportation on both occasions. First, we headed to Cape Sounion to see the Temple of Poseidon, and a couple of days later discovered the delightful suburb of Glyfada which has a blue flag beach by jumping on the A3. The Temple of Poseidon is located on the southern-most-tip of the Attica peninsula along the Athenian Riviera, and dates back to 5th Century BC. This place is simply stunning not just for the ancient beauty of the temple itself, but the breath-taking 180 views of the Aegean Sea around it. TIP: I highly recommend visiting this place. Journey time from central Athens (Syntagma Square) is c. 1 hour by public transport one way. A round trip costs 8 euros by bus and entrance fees are 8 euros too. As well as incredible views of the Aegean Sea and the Temple of Poseidon, this most southerly point of mainland Greece is famed for its jaw-dropping sunsets. We couldn’t stay for sunset, but there is a lively cafe, the Naos Café, located just a couple of hundred metres from the Temple of Poseidon where we had lunch and a carafe of local wine. After our lovely lunch at the Naos Café, Ash and I perched ourselves with a coffee in hand and soaked up natural and ancient beauty that surrounded us. It was a beautiful day and not one which we wanted to end! In this shot you can see the Temple of Poseidon in the distance. In Greece, Easter is celebrated a week after when we celebrate it in the UK as the country follow the Orthodox Christian tradition. On Saturday evening we saw families from all around coming together services at churches across the city carrying with them candles to celebrate the resurrection of Christ. This was really special to witness, and that night we even joined the service at the Church of Agioi Anargyroi Holy Metohi Panagiou Tafou at the top of the Plaka. The Temple of Olympian Zeus, is a magnificent temple is the largest in Greece. Its construction began in the 6th century BC and was dedicated to Zeus, head of the Olympian gods. Originally the temple had 104 columns but only 14 remain today, but it’s still well worth a visit. Entrance to it is included if you buy the Acropolis (500m away) combo ticket. Another must is going to the top of Mount Lycabettus (277m), the highest point in Athens and the ideal spot if you are seeking panoramic views, looking for a romantic setting, or wanting to watch the sunset. There are multiple paths up to the summit, but whichever way you go up the views will not disappoint. At the top, there are a couple of eateries as well as the chapel of St George. On our last day in Athens, we made it to the top of the Acropolis, where you will find the Parthenon, probably one of the most iconic sites in Greece. The temple was built 437 BC and dedicated to the Goddess Athena. Even with scaffolding, I was in complete awe of the temple and how nearly 2,500 later it is still standing. This was a befitting way to end our Greek Odyssey. TIP: The Acropolis Museum is definitely worth a visit. Holding many of the artefacts that were once housed in the Parthenon and surrounding buildings, it’s a treasure trove of antiquity. For me, what made Athens a really great weekend break was that as well so much to explore in the city itself, there was also a lot to see and do along the Athenian Riviera - especially the pristine, beautiful Blue Flag beaches. Getting my feet wet in Glyfada at the Balux Café House Project (entry €5 per person) to enjoy the beach there, was well worth it! Glyfada is an upmarket suburb where you will find Athenians enjoying family time, great food, top tunes and stunning sunsets. I look forward to coming back soon!

05 June 2019

Having enjoyed our time in Dubai in February 2016, Mr J and I continued our Arabian adventure by visiting Oman for some winter sun in November 2016. Our week here will be one of our most memorable, as we celebrated the Omani Sultan’s birthday, saw a Super Moon and a shooting star, and Ash even got to swim with sharks. I reconnected to a piece of family history – my great grandfather had come to Muscat (Oman’s capital) in the early 1900’s and had made it his home for several years. After a 10-hour flight and a 50-minute transfer to our hotel, the sight of the Arabian Sea at the Shangri-La Al Husn was a true delight. An oasis of calm with serene water features dotted around the wonderful grounds, and with the air perfumed by exotic incense, the setting had an immediate effect on me. I knew straight away I was somewhere wonderful, and this was confirmed by the fabulous Omani hospitality which we experienced upon arrival at the hotel - fresh mint tea and succulent dates to welcome us to this beautiful luxury property. Every morning and evening we enjoyed magnificent sunrises and sunsets due to the Shangri-La’s unique position above the clifftop. Each evening, hotel guests were treated to complimentary pre-dinner drinks and canapes around an ornamental pool in the central courtyard. This was another reminder of just how hospitable the Omani people are. As a qualified PADI diver, Mr J wanted to use our time away to go scuba diving as the coast of Oman is rich in marine life. He was not disappointed as during his time underwater he saw some sharks! Whilst Mr J was diving, I spent my time relaxing on the beautiful private sandy beaches which are only accessible by hotel guests. It was amazing how many books I got through that week! Sultan Qaboos - the Grand Mosque in Muscat - is a must for any visitor to Oman. Remarkably, given its scale and complexity, it only took 6 years to build and was opened in 2001. When visiting, please be respectful, ensuring that you cover your head and dress modestly. Once inside, you are drawn to the enormous main chandelier which measures 45 feet tall by 26 feet wide and weighs around 9 tonnes. It’s decorated with 600,000 crystals trimmed with gold. The mosque is simply divine and one of the few in the country which allows non-Muslim visitors. There was a great selection of day trips on offer at the Shangri-La. We opted for a fantastic visit to Nizwa, the former capital of Oman and Jebel Shams, the Grand Canyon of Oman. During the day we experienced the rugged beauty of this country, with numerous mountains and lush valleys surrounded by barren desert dotted with ancient forts everywhere we looked. It was quite a landscape! After Nizwa and spending some time in the souks, our 4x4 continued uphill to the Jebel Shams – the highest peak in the country at 3000m – where we got a magnificent view of Oman’s “Grand Canyon”. It was a truly breath-taking sight and we even managed to make a friend at the top! Our visit to Oman coincided with the Sultan’s (King’s) birthday and throughout the country there were major celebrations to mark the occasion. The Shangri-La was no exception with the hotel hosting a complimentary event for guests and locals alike which featured music, dance, fireworks and food! The celebration of the Sultan’s birthday continued late into the night. It was lovely to see local families out together enjoying themselves and it was wonderful to feel very much part of the fun ourselves! The food was plentiful and varied (different cuisines from around the world) and there was even a huge birthday cake for everyone to enjoy. Once again, we got a real taste of the famed Omani hospitality! I absolutely love the moon, and one of the highlights of our trip to Oman was witnessing a super moon against a clear night sky. We even glimpsed a shooting star that evening! And the sight of a huge rising super moon, just above the horizon, hovering over the Arabian Sea, will live with me for a long time. It was a fitting way to round off our Arabian Adventure!

14 December 2018

In May, Ash and I spent three incredible weeks in Uganda, described by Sir Winston Churchill as the 'Pearl of Africa' and my parents as 'paradise on earth'. Our visit to Uganda was primarily to run the 2018 International marathon that takes place in early June, see the elusive mountain gorillas but for me, this was also a very personal journey to re-trace my family history from when my Grandfather first settled here from India in 1917 to us leaving the country as part of the Idi Amin expulsions of Asians in the early 1970's. FINDING THE PLACE OF MY BIRTH After spending our first night in Kampala taking in the sights and sounds of this vibrant capital, we headed north to a town called Kayunga, which is where according to my passport I was born. In Kayunga through the help of our Salias (our driver and guide), we successfully managed to find the very place my mum had given birth to me. The whole day was unbelievable, one that I never thought I would live to see - a complete emotional rollercoaster! UGANDA MARATHON – ‘AN ADVENTURE LIKE NO OTHER’ The next seven days were spent in Masaka a town in central Uganda, west of Lake Victoria, acclimatising for the marathon and visiting the local projects we had been fund raising for. On June 2nd, after 5 gruelling months of training that began on the 2nd January, in London, running 5 nights a week and with over 500 miles of practice under our belts, we successfully completed the Uganda marathon, raising £4,000+ for the community. QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK – SAFARI IN STYLE After the marathon, we drove to the Ishasha Wilderness Camp, a luxury camp in the Queen Elizabeth National Park for much rest and recuperation. En-route to the lodge we got to see the tree climbing lions, which Ishasha is famous for, fast asleep in the mid-afternoon sun. Other wildlife we spotted were the Crested Cranes – the national birds of Uganda that you see on the flag, as well as elephants, baboons, Uganda Kobs, and Topi. MOUNTAIN GORILLAS After a couple of days in the Queen Elizabeth National Park, we headed to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site to trek the elusive mountain gorillas. Bwindi is home to almost half the world’s mountain gorillas. On the morning of the trek, the Uganda Wildlife Authority provided us with an initial briefing regarding the different Gorilla families in the Forest and what we could expect from the trek itself. The trek is dependent on locating the Gorilla families, and you can hike anything between 2-6 hours through the rainforest to find them. We were very fortunate to locate the Habinyanja family within an hour of us trekking. Once we were with the gorillas, we were given an hour to spend with them. This was the closest I came to feel like Sir David Attenborough. Getting up close and personal with these beautiful creatures and discovering they share 99% of our DNA was magical and a real privilege. The baby gorillas were my favourite, they were completely unfazed that we were nearby watching. During our time in Bwindi, we stayed at both the Buhoma Lodge and the Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp - both luxury lodges nestled deep in the Forest. BEYOND THE WILDLIFE There is so much to see and do in Uganda, whatever your interests. Just a few of the highlights during our stay were crossing the Equator line and seeing the famous water experiment conducted; Walking around the crater lakes in Kyaninga, near the Rwenzori mountains; Hiking in Mount Elgon National Park and Sipi Falls; Enjoying a sunset boat ride on Lake Victoria, on our last night in Uganda.

14 December 2018

For our annual girls’ weekend, we went to Seville in September, to celebrate some upcoming big birthdays. Meeting at Luton airport we started the weekend in style with a glass of Fizz. Outside and Inside the EME Caterdral Arriving at our hotel the EME Caterdral, we were greeted right opposite the hotel by the stunning La Giralda, a 104-metre-tall bell tower of Seville’s famous gothic cathedral. Originally it was built as a minaret for the Great Mosque. My first reaction on seeing this was wow. Inside the EME, my reaction was not too dissimilar, as we were greeted with warm Spanish hospitality and a welcome drink of our choice. We chose Cava to carry on the weekend celebrations. Having arrived late and in the middle of a thunderstorm, we decided to dine at the hotel’s Italian restaurant, Ostia Antica. The thin crust pizza was divine, and the atmosphere was casual and relaxed. Day 1 - Seeing Seville in Style The following morning it was a beautiful sunny Saturday and we decided to see the city by a horse drawn carriage is very popular. I really enjoyed the 45 minutes tour as it gave me a great overview and orientation of Seville in an easy and fun way. Some of major sights we saw along the way were: The Maestranza – the Bullring in the Plaza de toros de la Real Maestranza, where 12,000 people come together to watch bull fighting. Hotel Alfonso XIII, which is a cultural landmark in the historic quarter of Santa Cruz. The hotel was commissioned by the King of Spain during the 1929 Exhibition. Guadalquivir River - Spain’s second longest and only navigable river, where you can enjoy a variety of different water sports particularly rowing and canoeing Torre del Oro - Tower of Gold, beautiful Watch Tower, with a golden dome 36m tall, standing on the river. Flamenco dancers in the open spaces Sightseeing in the heat, left us all famished and whilst Spain isn't renowned for its vegetarian cuisine. We found an excellent Lebanese tapas place, El Rincon D Beirut, on the Calle San Fernando. The staff were friendly, the food was delicious and fresh. My favourite was the baba ghanoush, which had a tang to it with a tamarind flavour. Siesta Seville Style Instead of the traditional Spanish siesta of taking a nap, we decided to enjoy some downtime in our own private jacuzzi after lunch at the EME enjoying ice cream and more fizz. The Metropol Parasol For sunset we headed for the Metropol Parasol – the world’s largest wooden structure built by German architect Juergen Mayer. The Parasol dominates the old city’s skyline. The walk way at the top offers stunning views of the city. But once there, another storm was brewing, and we could feel the dark clouds looming in on us. Just as we reached the top of the Metropol Parasol, we found ourselves caught in a thunderstorm and witnessed some spectacular lightening going off around the city, with a cocktail in hand. Once the rain had stopped, we were able to enjoy views from the top. Shortly after we headed back to the historic city for some paella and traditional Spanish tapas. Day 2 - Visiting the main historical attractions Seville Cathedral After breakfast, we ventured out for some more sightseeing. First on the list was Seville Cathedral, the world’s largest gothic cathedral. Queues to visit this magnificent place are long, so buy your tickets in advance online either yourself or the hotel can help too. Inside the Cathedral is simply jaw dropping. The architecture, the works of art, the stain glass windows, marvelling at the tomb of Christopher Columbus or just sitting at the altar, keeps you captivated for hours. The other fun thing to do once inside is to go up the top of the La Giralda, where you can witness amazing panoramic views of the city, including that of our hotel - the EME Catedral, where you the hotel rooftop pool and bar. The bar on the 4th floor is open to non-hotel guests too and an experience I highly recommend. The Real Alcarzar Next on was the Royal Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and oldest royal palace still in use in Europe. The Real Alcarzar reminded me of the Alhambra Palace in Granada, which I guess isn't that unusual as it was influenced during the Moor Period. The intricate stone carving of the Palace is just a feat of wonder. The gardens are stunning too, and you could easily spend hours here. Whilst walking around we spotted a peacock wandering around the garden. During our two days in Seville we got to see the highlights and main attractions of the city. I would highly recommend this capital city of the Andalucía region as it has so much to offer the visitor who is looking for a cultural break with a warm welcoming Spanish vibe.