Trekking the Trails of Svaneti: My Journey through Georgia

Flight from Heathrow to Batumi, with a connecting flight via Istanbul with Turkish Airlines.

Walking grade: Moderate

Day 1: Batumi Beginnings

Touching down in Batumi, Georgia’s Black Sea gem, I felt the first flutter of excitement. The city buzzed with energy: seafront cafes, eclectic towers and Art Nouveau facades, and the unmistakable scent of salt in the air. With no firm plans, I let myself drift along the palm-lined promenade, watching locals cycling and older men playing chess, basking in the golden light. The gentle sea breeze instantly eased me into the adventure I’d been dreaming of.

My tip: Arrive early enough to catch sunset at the Alphabetic Tower, then grab a coffee from one of the tiny kiosks on the seafront. There’s no better way to shake off jet lag and soak up Batumi’s coastal charm.

Day 2: Into the Heart of Svaneti

After a morning welcome meeting, we said goodbye to the coast and set off inland. Each mile north pulled us further from the ordinary: undulating green hills surrendered to mighty peaks, forests thickened, and clouds clung to the slopes. By the time we reached the shadow of Mount Ushba, its twin spires cloud-shrouded and magnificent, I realised why some call it the “Matterhorn of the Caucasus.” My camera didn’t stand a chance of capturing its scale.

My tip: Have your camera ready on this drive, but don’t miss the scenery by seeing it all through the lens. The last hour before Becho is jaw-dropping—sit back and just enjoy it.

Day 3: Waterfalls and Watchtowers

We began our trek near Mazeri, tracing the lively Dolra River beneath towering pines. The air was fresh, the path rocky, but the promise of the Ushba waterfall pulled us forward. Mists swirled, the cascade roared, and I was mesmerised by the raw energy of nature. Later, arriving in mystical Mestia felt like stepping into a living tapestry: medieval watchtowers dotting the skyline, history flickering behind every window. Climbing into the Margiani House museum’s ancient tower, I imagined generations of stories echoing between those stone walls. Walking distance: Approx 10km is expected to take approximately 4-5 hours with a total ascent and descent of 550 metres

My tip: Don’t rush through Mestia at night. Wander the side streets and let yourself get lost—the towers look magical when they’re lit up and the town is hushed.

Day 4: Ushguli’s Timeless Charm

The drive to Ushguli was like a journey through centuries: tiny hamlets, ploughed fields, and stone towers that have guarded this valley for ages. That afternoon, we tackled the steep trail to Mount Guro. The reward? Wildflowers at your feet and views of white-capped giants all around you. As I breathed in the clear mountain air, I marvelled at how small—and how free—I felt in this untouched place. Today's 10 kilometre/6.2 mile walk is expected to take approximately 5 to 6 hours with a total ascent and descent of 800 metres/2,624 feet

My tip: Bring a lightweight scarf or buff for the hike. It’s handy for sun, wind, or just sitting on when you pause to soak up the views!

Day 5: Touching the Glacier

Our trek to Shkhara Glacier followed a winding riverbank, meadows bursting with orchids and alpine flowers leading us ever closer to the jagged white tongue of the glacier. The air grew sharp and still. Standing before Mount Shkhara’s icy face, I felt a hush within—a feeling of awe and just how fleeting, yet precious, each moment here truly was.

My tip: Take a thermal flask and fill it with hot tea in the morning. There is nothing better than sipping something warm when you reach the glacier’s chill.

Day 6: The Final Stretch to Mestia

We set out from Mulakhi, weaving through peaceful hamlets and wide open valleys, the only sounds birdsong and our own footsteps. With each passing village, the journey felt etched not just in my memory but in my heart. The day finished back in Mestia, a sense of accomplishment warming me just as much as the hearty Svanetian dinner that followed. Today's 14 kilometre/8.7 mile walk is expected to take approximately 5 hours with a total ascent of 520 metres/1,706 feet and descent of 650 metres/2,132 feet.

My tip: Pack a little snack for the trail, like Georgian churchkhela or homemade bread. The sweet energy lift is always appreciated, and you’ll feel like a local!

Day 7: Koruldi Lakes and Mountain Majesty

Our last mountain day was pure magic. The climb from Jvari to the Koruldi Lakes tested my legs, but the sight at the top—the glassy water reflecting Ushba and the mighty Tetnuldi—felt like a little piece of heaven. I sat in silence, letting the grandeur of the snow-capped giants and the hush of the high mountains stay with me.  Today's 8 kilometre/5 mile walk is expected to take approximately 3 hours with a total ascent and descent of 600 metres/1,968 feet.

My tip: Head up early, and bring a picnic breakfast if you can. The stillness (and the light for photos) is most magical before the crowds arrive!

Day 8: Back to Batumi

Saying goodbye to the mountains was bittersweet. The drive back to Batumi via Zugdidi offered a last glance at Georgia’s green valleys. Once back at the coast, I wandered Batumi’s vibrant streets, marvelling at its mash-up of Russian mansions, Soviet relics, and neon-lit towers—a city both timeless and forward-looking.

My tip: On your last evening, treat yourself to a plate of Adjarian khachapuri (that delicious, cheesy bread boat) at a café overlooking the sea. It’s the perfect way to toast your adventure.

Final Reflections

This wasn’t just a trek—it was a transformation. The wild beauty, the ancient traditions, and the unfiltered hospitality of Svaneti taught me so much. If you ever find yourself at the edge of the Caucasus, don’t hesitate: breathe deeply, move slowly, and allow the mountains to change you, too.

My tip: Journal just a few lines each night. Even a snippet will bring these memories flooding back—and you’ll thank yourself later.

GENERAL ADVICE

Getting There:
Most international travellers arrive via Batumi or Tbilisi. Direct flights from the UK are limited, but connecting through Istanbul or central Europe is straightforward. From Batumi, the drive north to Svaneti is scenically spectacular—plan for 7–8 hours, allowing for photo stops along mountain roads. Alternatively, there are regular domestic flights (weather permitting) from Tbilisi to Mestia.

Best Time to Visit:
Late May to early October is ideal for trekking and exploring. Mountain passes are clear, wildflowers are in bloom, and Ushguli’s towers pierce blue skies. Winter brings deep snow—perfect for skiers but less suited for hiking.

Visa & Entry:
UK nationals and most EU citizens can enter Georgia visa-free for up to one year. Just ensure your passport is valid for at least six months from your date of entry.

Language:
Georgian is the local language in Svaneti. English is spoken in Batumi, Tbilisi, and some hotels/guesthouses in Mestia, but up in the mountains, Russian is more common. Learning a few Georgian greetings (or even ‘gmadlobt’ for thank you) is always appreciated.

Money & Payments:
The Georgian Lari (GEL) is the currency. ATMs are available in Batumi, Zugdidi, and Mestia, but bring some cash for remote villages. Contactless payment is spreading, but cash is king the further you get from cities.

Health & Safety:
Svaneti is considered safe and crime is rare. Mountain treks are well-marked, but always travel with a reputable guide or local host—weather can change quickly, and phone coverage is patchy. Bring travel insurance that covers hiking/adventure activities.

Food & Drink:
Expect hearty mountain cuisine! Favourites include khachapuri (cheese bread), kubdari (meat bread), and hearty stews. Tap water is generally safe in Batumi and Mestia, but in villages, stick to bottled or boiled water.

Packing Essentials:

• Sturdy hiking boots and layers for changing mountain weather
• Lightweight waterproofs (showers can roll in quickly)
• Sunscreen and a hat for strong alpine sun
• Power adapter: Georgia uses European 2-pin sockets
• Mobile Wi-Fi device or local SIM for better connectivity

Cultural Notes:
Svaneti is fiercely proud of its traditions. Dress modestly in villages, especially near churches or family gatherings. You might be invited for homemade wine or chacha (local spirit)—it’s polite to at least taste!

My tip: Remind clients to keep some small change for local markets, cafes, and to tip helpful guides—hospitality in this part of the world is extraordinary, and a little thank-you goes a long way.