India: Northern Cities to the Kerala Backwaters

Steve Finch on 20 November 2024
The journey began in New Delhi, at Humayun's tomb, then to the imperial mosque of the Mughal emperor, the majestic Jama Masjid Mosque, one of the largest in India, with a cycle rickshaw trip and then onto the Gandhi Smriti, where Gandhi spent the final weeks of his life prior to his assassination there.

Next day, we ventured into the wilds of Ranthambore for a thrilling tiger safari. We saw two magnificent Bengal tigers there, as well as Marsh crocodiles, Blue bull, Sambar deer, Mongoose, Langurs...all in their natural habitat. A very special experience.

From there we moved on to Agra. The highlight of course, was the magnificent Taj Mahal. This world-famous symbol of love is just magnificent, with flawless beauty created in white marble. Just a short distance away, we explored the historic Agra Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage site brimming with Mughal architecture.

Then on to Rajasthan, to the city of Jaipur. Enroute , however, was the stepwell of Abhaneri, Chand Baori. Constructed in the 8th century, this 13 storeys deep well with 3500 steps to the waters below is astounding. The Pink City of Jaipur, with its vibrant bazaars and royal palaces, was another highlight. A visit to Amber Fort, perched high on a hill, allowed us to experience Rajasthan's royal history.

Three marvellous highlights... and we had barely started the tour!

A short flight then took us from Northern to Southern India, from Jaipur to Bangalore. The tech city hub of Bangalore provided a more modern contrast to the traditional sites we had seen in north. Visited some temples here including the Bull Temple and Sri Ranganathaswamy.

Bangalore to Mysore: Enroute we visited Srirangapatnam, the island fortress of the warrior king Tipu Sultan, to visit the wooden summer palace at Daria Daulat Bagh, full of detailed frescoes of battle scenes on the walls and elaborate painted ceilings. Followed by to visit to the mausoleum of Tipu Sultan at Gumbaz.

Mysore, has a beautiful City Palace, the huge Amba Vilas Palace, completed in 1912. The halls within are ornate and have to be seen. A visit up the hills to the nearby iconic Hindi Chamundeshwari Temple, was fascinating too. This location on a busy Friday, with throngs of devotees packing in to the complex, was exciting. Also it was a place where many selfies were requested by friendly locals with us as strangers there. Visited a fruit and vegetable market too, and, as before, with very friendly locals at the fore.

On the drive further south, the Bandipur National Park offered a chance to see some of India’s elephants in the wild, all set against a stunning backdrop of forests and hills. The winding hilly route took us up through the Nilgiri hills weaving through cloud forests before arriving at a cool, damp, Ooty at 2300m above sea level.

In Ooty, we visited its lush botanical gardens and a tea plantation. A 19 km mountain 'toy' train narrow gauge railway ride to Coonoor was very enjoyable, followed by Sims Park, another botanical garden offering a nice retreat.

A proper train journey came the next day, 160 miles, from Coimbatore to Ernakulum / Cochin...a very long train with many carriages. A 4 hour journey in an ancient, yet comfortable and spacious, air conditioned carriage.

In Cochin, we explored the historic Mattancherry Palace with Hindu temple art murals and portraits and exhibits of the Rajas of Kochi. After visiting the Paradesi synagogue we walked around the lively Fort Cochin area ..and obtained a few spices for future culinary treats! Cochin is a busy port with many cargo ships passing through its waters.

Kerala was made extra special by staying on a houseboat in its tranquil backwaters. The Kettuvallam houseboats are made of local wood and are thatched. The 4 mile trip along palm-lined waterways to our night mooring place was very pleasant, with many birds seen along the way including: egrets, cormorants and various kingfishers.

We concluded the adventure on beautiful Marari Beach. A perfect place to relax, a golden beach with fishing boats strewn along the shore, with kites soaring high above and egrets skittering along the coastline..

From the bustling streets of Delhi to the peaceful backwaters of Kerala, this taster trip through India was a rich tapestry of culture, nature, and history. Each stop offered something unique, a superb experience. India is truly a country of contrasts, where ancient history and modern life coexist in harmony. And as a country it is so friendly, and the 'ordeal' of being able to have 19 curries on consecutive evenings is rather fabulous....