Malta & Gozo – Like Marmite?

When telling people that I was off to Malta and Gozo I got mixed reactions. You’ll love it or hate it, why would you go on holiday there, there are no beaches, it’s just full of old churches, and the best comment - Isn’t it just for old people?

I’ve been to some far flung places that have rightly caused people to react adversely, but Malta? It’s been on the tourist map for years and still attracts heaps of visitors, so I went with an open mind thinking it must have something that draws the crowds.

I headed off with nine other Travel Counsellors as guests of the Maltese Tourism Authority for what looked to be a packed six days of touring. I was keeping my mind open. I have to admit I was thinking ‘how many churches can we visit in 6 days?’

So, what did I think?

I have to say I was blown away by Valletta, Malta’s capital and a UNESCO world heritage city. What a place! Five centuries of history, stunning baroque architecture, quaint cafes and wine bars and the majestic St John’s Cathedral, all within the imposing bastions of the old town. From the Upper Barrakka Gardens you get wonderful views of the Grand Harbour, often described as the most beautiful in the Mediterranean and I can see why. Valletta is compact and you could easily get to see a good selection of the sites in one day. Any visit to Valletta would not be complete without a visit to café Cordina situated in an old palazzo. Established in 1837, it’s a bit of a Maltese icon. I loved the place. It was like stepping back into a 1960’s film with its old espresso machines, patisserie counters and waiting staff dressed in white shirts and bow ties. Ask for a table outside in the palazzo, sit back and people watch.

Across the Grand Harbour, only a five-minute ferry ride from Valletta lies the old cities of Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua, often referred to as the Three Cities which is often overlooked by a lot of visitors. It’s a shame as it is home to the stunning glitzy marina with its super yachts, gorgeous old Maltese town houses (each one individual and lovingly cared for) and superb waterside restaurants and well worth a visit. The best way to see the Three Cities is by using a company called Rolling Geeks. This company has come up with a very innovative way to draw in the tourists and get the most from their visit. The concept is that you hire an electric self-drive buggy, which is pre-programmed to guide you via GPS around the narrow streets. Its good fun and you get to see much more than if you were walking. The buggies even have a dashboard mounted iPad for you to take selfies! Be sure to stop at the Gnien il-Gardjola for spectacular panoramic views over the Grand Harbour and the bastions of Valletta.

Across the other side of the peninsula of Valetta lie the trendy areas of Sliema and St Julians, where a lot of the four and five star hotels are situated (Hilton, Radisson, Intercontinental to name a few). At St Julian’s you’ll find a lovely harbour called Spinola Bay which is home to numerous gorgeous restaurants, the perfect setting to while away the evening alfresco. If you are looking for more lively evening entertainment, then St Julian’s has a host a clubs and bars to keep you entertained.

Once you have exhausted the sites around the capital city, you can easily do excursions to the old capital of Mdina with its mix of medieval and baroque architecture. If you want something even older, then visit the temples of Hagar Qim.

There’s a lot to do in Malta. What about a bit or R&R? The lack of sandy beaches on Malta does make for a limited selection of beach resorts. We stayed in the resort of Qawra which is nestled along a peninsula along with St Pauls, Salina and Bugibba. There’s no beach, but easy access to the sea makes for great snorkelling and cooling off. Qawra has quite a few charming restaurants and a Café Del Mar for those looking for a bit of stylish sun-worshipping. The high rise hotels here give a bit of an eighties resort vibe if you like that sort of thing.

To really wind down a gear, I would suggest taking the 45 minute ferry crossing over to Gozo. The pace of life slows and you get a feeling that Gozo’s isolation from its big brother adds to its charm. Everyone seems to know each other, providing an extremely friendly feel. Gozo, like Malta is lacking when it comes to beaches, but there are some amazing diving and snorkelling sites around the coast. The water is a deep sapphire blue and crystal clear. If getting wet isn’t your thing, then you can take boat trips from the inland sea to the caves of the Azure Window and still experience the colour of the water.

If you are still looking for an architecture and history fix in Gozo, then you will not be disappointed with the island’s capital city Victoria and its citadel. In Victoria, you will find the temples of Xaghra, which, dating back to Neolithic times and are the thought to be the oldest free standing structures in the world.

For a bit more action I would recommend touring Gozo on a mountain bike, quad bike or buggy, which can be hired independently or as a group tour. We thoroughly enjoyed a half day quad bike tour of the island, which took in some amazing scenery from the picturesque bay at Xlendi to the desolate salt flats on the north coast.

So is Malta like Marmite? If you are looking for a fly and flop holiday with a nice beach and stay within the confines of your resort, then I think you would be disappointed with Malta. However, if you are looking for a bit of exploration, good food, history and culture combined with some fantastic weather year round, then you will love this place. Valletta is perfect for a vibrant fun city break or head off to Gozo and unwind for a longer stay.

Feel free to contact me to find out more about Malta and Gozo and see how it could be your next break.