Caribbean Cruising ‘23: Monserrat & The Kingdom of Redonda
Unfortunately the weather would not allow us to stop in Monserrat, having been warned the anchorage can be pretty uncomfortable with big swells. However, keen to see the active volcano and abandoned city of Plymouth, we took the detour to sail around Monserrat on our way to Nevis.
Monserrat was first settled by the Irish in the 1600’s. By the mid-1990’s, the island was thriving with farming, fishing and tourism until the Soufriere Hills volcano started a string of eruptions, leading to evacuation, exclusion zones and sadly destruction of the main town, Plymouth. By early 2000’s the government deemed it safe to start reopening some areas… but the volcano unfortunately had other ideas and the exclusion zone was again extended, which today covers over half the island.
Sailing past it is like two different islands. The southern half soars out of the sea, wild with past lava flows, lush untamed vegetation and a stream of smoke puffing out to one side. We decided a terradactyl swooping overhead wouldn’t look out of place!
As we rounded up the west coast, it was sad to see Plymouth, obviously once a vibrant thriving town, now reduced to a ghost town, with the buildings slowly crumbling away and being engulfed by the rich vegetation. With the overwhelming waft of sulphur, there was no doubt we were sailing downwind of an active volcano! The northern end of Monserrat however, looked beautiful, with colourful houses, pretty beach bars and palms gently swaying in the breeze, and all safely protected from the Soufriere Hills volcano by the Central Hills Mountain.
Mid way between Monserrat and Nevis lies a rock, one mile long by 1,000 feet high. From the sea it looks like somewhere inaccessible to land and impossible to climb. However, somehow people have and the Redonda has an interesting history.
From the mid-1800’s to mid-1900’s Redonda was mined for phosphates, with people and parts pulled up and down the rock on a bucket system, from the wharf at the bottom to houses on the top. When looking at the island today, with both the wharf and houses long gone, it seems an impossible feat due to the incredible steepness!
Although officially part of Antigua, there are various claims over the Kingdom of Redonda, starting in 1880 with an Irish-Monserrat merchant wanting a kingdom for his 15 year son (born after 8 daughters who could ‘’go marry’’). Taking a day trip to the rock with the Bishop of Antigua and friends, they apparently consumed much alcohol and King Filipe I of Redonda was crowned! With the new king being a writer, the title was passed to various writer/arty types over the years. In 1998 Robert Williamson or ‘Bob the Bald’, apparently a rather exuberant writer and artist living in Antigua, claimed he’d been on the short list to be king (as he stood at only 5’ 2’’ - ha ha!). Aboard his flamboyant royal yacht (which apparently features in Pirates of the Caribbean) he mounted an expedition with 16 loyal subjects to Redonda to claim his title and appoint various nobles of the realm. There have since been other claims over Redonda, but I think ‘Bob the Bald’ sounds the most fun!
As we sailed past Redonda it was amusing to read the varied history and tales, being just a simple steep sided rock in the middle of the Caribbean Sea.
Unfortunately my photos don’t really do either island justice, but armed with a good set of binoculars, we had a fun day exploring from sea.
Late afternoon we arrived to Pinney Beach, Nevis. A lovely anchorage in the shadow of the mighty Nevis Peak. After a full day of exciting sailing, time for an early night before discovering the delights or Nevis over the next couple of days.
This article was published as part of a series ‘Caribbean Cruising 2023’.
Next article ‘Nevis’.