Chowder Time - February 2017

Vanessa de Vere on 24 March 2018
I’m not sure that February is the right month to visit San Francisco but wherever you go you will need very deep pockets. This is one of the most expensive places I have ever visited, and certainly kept my wine habit in check. Visiting anyway in the US shortly after an election you will feel the out pouring of emotion and a certain post-election fever. I always had certain iconic ideals of this city probably after hearing so many popular songs in the 60’s and 70’s. However, rest assured no one wears flowers in their hair here anymore. In fact, it was hard to even see the Golden Gate Bridge through the fog.

What is striking is Fisherman’s Wharf, and the piers. It’s one of those lovingly restored areas (in places.) Warehouses have become centres for restaurants and museums and some hotels along the front have made really good use of the character and created some atmospheric places to stay.

It’s a hilly city on the tip of a peninsula surrounded by the Pacific Ocean and San Francisco Bay. The hills are best navigated by one of the classic cable cars, but you will need nerves of steel to join the rest of your travelling companions as you pray for the brakes to work in places.

The fog and bad weather prevented getting out to Alcatraz Island, but telescopes from the bay side afford great views.

You can spend hours exploring the piers; in fact, I did and loved the style and enthusiasm of place. Especially great is the choice of bakeries for an authentic breakfast stop, I liked Boudin’s. A wander around will take you to Pier 39’s sea lion centre, a noisy affair but fascinating to see so many in one place and watch a number of neighbourhood disputes simultaneously in progress!

Apart from the scarily expensive restaurants there are a number of street stalls that sell more crab than you can ever eat and more chowder than you ever thought existed. For a few days it’s OK but if you are planning to stay longer then plan to visit further afield. When I go back again I’d like to do some vineyard tours and ask them why their wine is so expensive!

Come to San Francisco for a bit of nostalgia, bagels in Boudin’s, street vendors and hair-raising cable car rides and seal watching!