Adventures in the Land of Fire & Ice - Part Two
When you do the Golden Circle, you’ll quickly see it’s very busy, with lots of coaches jostling for position. And while it’s down to personal preference and budget, I would 100% recommend doing it in style, by super jeep.
On the day of our tour, we were picked up at our hotel by two behemoths. A 4x4, and a Mercedes Sprinter van jacked up on humongous tyres – we were going monster trucking. After the Golden Circle, we passed a coach stop on the right. Here, the tourist buses were going no further as the terrain grew wilder and the road disappeared. It’s really hard to put into words what this bit was like because I’ve never done anything like it before. Our drivers, two expert Icelandic chaps, ramped up the rock music, and we went bumping and bashing across the landscape, over walls and through streams. It was equal parts terrifying and amazing. Slowly, the arid grounds gave way to snow as we headed up towards the glacier, until all around us was glittering white mountain peaks framed by bright blue skies. Our drivers were clearly having the time of their lives, competing against one another for the most hair-raising race up the mountain peaks as we screamed in the back seats. It was absolute boys and their toys – and I loved every second.
Delivered safely at our next stop, an outpost in the middle of nowhere, we saw a line of snow-mobiles waiting for us. Cold doesn’t do it justice out here. The temperatures were fierce, and you need layers, practical, waterproof layers (my nemesis). Before boarding the snow-mobiles, we were suited in enormously thick overalls and given a briefing. Then, in teams of two, we set off zipping across the glacier. I didn’t know what to expect here, but at speeds of up to 60km an hour, it’s adrenaline-pumping and, given the setting, more than a little surreal. I would do it again in a heartbeat, and for something truly once-in-a-lifetime, I’d absolutely recommend it.
That evening, we stayed in rural lodges in the Icelandic countryside. They were like walking into an Ikea set. The epitome of Scandi-chic and completely beautiful. This epic accommodation offers choices from bedrooms set in single-storey blocks to sweeping villas sleeping group parties. And the best bit? Each comes with bubbling hot tubs set under the stars, be they shared for the hotel rooms or on a private terrace steps away from your cosy villa. On site, a gorgeous restaurant serves up fantastic dishes, both for dinner and breakfast, the latter with complimentary Champagne. That evening, buzzing with the day’s adventures we sat in the hot tubs watching the hazy Northern Lights in the distance, and praying they put on a full show.
It was hard wondering what could top, or at least draw even, with a day like the one before. Yet the following morning we were out again. This time, our destination was Europe’s second largest glacier, where we spent more time white-knuckled grasping onto our seats as we skidded and bowled our way through scenery that had Volvo ad written all over it. Eventually in the distance we spotted a bunker – all a bit anxious to what was coming next. Kitted up in crampons, we were ushered into a dark tunnel sloping downwards. We were climbing inside the glacier. Inside is eerie, the ice lit by soft colours, showing off fascinating layers built up over the years (a dark layer, telling the tale of 2010’s infamous ash cloud, was an astonishing 18 metres deep – in nine years!). Massive stalagmites and stalactites, humongous crevices in the ice, and even a chapel, deep in the glacier with an ice altar, await.
There were other amazing points in our trip, from incredible restaurants to complete awe of yet another natural masterpiece, but I wouldn’t want to spoil it all for you. The salient points are, if you’re considering a visit here, summer or winter, a long weekend, or with a road trip in mind then I’d love to make sure you get to enjoy it like I did. That includes the best tips about when to go, where to go – oh, and where you should visit to rival the Blue Lagoon too. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime place, and I’ll help you do it in once-in-a-lifetime style.