Madeira - like the Caribbean, without the jetlag!
Part of Portugal, but closer to the Canaries, Madeira is a quirk of nature. Volcanic, but with none of the desert landscapes of its near neighbours. Instead, lush green plantations jostle for position with tropical flowers and candy-hued buildings frame emerald-coloured gardens. And in December, with an added sprinkle of festivities, the place is little short of magical.
Things to do
Get lost in the Old Town
Discovered by total chance (with our heads down absorbed in finding a no.1 restaurant on TripAdvisor) we looked up to realise we were in Funchal’s Old Town. Close to the city’s famous market, the atmospheric cobbled streets of the Zona Velha lace their way down towards the seafront. Here, fish restaurants and trendy cafes and bars enjoy the shade of the higgledy-piggledy historic buildings with their arty front doors. It’s the perfect place to while away a few hours, finishing up on the promenade with a poncha; a local drink made from rum and fruit juice – and certain to give you a headache in the morning!
Climb Monte, and take the toboggan down
One thing you’ll quickly realise about Madeira, it’s steep! From the moment your airport transfer snakes around the corner opening the bay of Funchal below you, you’ll appreciate its thickly-forested hills with houses clinging to their edges. But where there are heights, there are also views – and taking the cable car to Monte means you’ll see them in style. Hop on close to the Old Town, and sail skywards enjoying the full 360-degree panoramas of the city below you and across to the Atlantic Ocean. At the top, you’ll find yourself on the doorstep of some of Madeira’s most prized possessions, its glorious botanical gardens along with a clutch of restaurants offering spectacular vistas of Funchal and the sea. What goes up, must come down, and if you don’t fancy the cable car or the local bus, you’ll find straw boater-toting Madeiran men waiting to push you down the hair-raising slopes back to the city in a traditional wooden basket.
Eat (and drink) like a local
With a city centre huddled around a cornucopia of a market, this is an island that does food in some style. Expect to be bowled over by the gorgeous courtyard of the fruit market where stalls groan under the weight of a rainbow of beautifully-displayed tropical treats. See the catch of the day hauled in and sold from the fish market. Later, taste local favourite scabbard fish cooked up with banana in one of the backstreet restaurants. Visit the home of Madeira Wine, Blandy’s to sip the super-sweet tipple and hear how its fascinating history is interlaced with that of the island. Although part of Portugal for 600 years, Madeira still dances to the beat of its own (delicious) culinary drum.
I visited Madeira in December, when Funchal was alive with Christmas. It’s festive lights alone make it worth the trip at this time of year when strings of twinkling bulbs festoon the city and the hillsides, and the streets and parks are transformed into grotto-esque wonderlands. As New Year rolls around, the city becomes one of the best places in the world to see in 1st January with an extravagant fireworks display holding court over the city and the ocean. Rarely dipping below 20 degrees, Madeira has the benefit of rarely being too hot, or too cold. Year-round, this makes it an attractive location for adventure-seekers too; Madeira’s network of levadas and laurel forests carve it out as a lush playground for activity holidays. But whichever of the island's particular pleasures charm you, you'll find it backed up with a beautiful choice of invariably smart hotels, proud and welcoming locals, and the fabulously smug feeling you’ve just found yourself one of the last relatively ‘off-the-radar’ locations in Europe.