Patagonian Adventure Part 2 - Argentina
The following morning, we took a short flight south to Ushuaia, the most southerly city in the world. The Andes backdrop this edge of the world. Our hotel overlooked the Beagle Channel, with Chile just across the water. We spent the afternoon exploring the small city (a town really) and then the next day headed into the Tierra del Fuego National Park. Here we travelled by the Tren del Fin Mundo (end of the world train), which cut through the peat and undulating scenery. We then continued by road to the end of the Pan American Highway, loving the fact that nearly 18000kms to the north was Alaska. We could go no further south by road. The following morning, we joined a catamaran to sail along the Beagle Channel in search of cormorants, seals, sea lions and penguins. Although extremely chilly, we enjoyed the views and got photos of various sea life along the way. South of us was Antarctica! We warmed up with a hot lunch and another wander around Ushuaia before heading back to our lovely hotel.
That evening we flew to Buenos Aires and were met by our guide. The first thing she said was to leave my husband's watch in the hotel safe. That really instilled confidence! The following morning, we were picked up and driven north of the city out into the countryside for a day of Gauchos and a BBQ. The Estancia was run by a fourth-generation family of gauchos, so it was good to see the authenticity. Some of us opted to ride with the gauchos, and others take a leisurely ride in a sully (old fashioned open carriage). We then had a traditional BBQ with wine and beer, followed by demonstrations of horse whispering and traditional dancing. All very relaxing and enjoyable.
The following day we met our guide for a tour around the city by local bus and on foot. Like Santiago, it was good to be part of the city and not cushioned by a private car. Buenos Aires is a very large city. We had been warned about the traffic, but as it was the Easter break we were lucky enough not to be affected. The city has a European influence, having drafted in French Architects in the 18th Century. Full of wide leafy boulevards, parks and pretty buildings, the central area was very attractive. We moved then to the bohemian area of La Boca, which was full of colourful buildings once inhabited by artists and now a buzzing tourist area. We were treated to some Tango dancing in a market area, plenty of local handicrafts to browse, and numerous open-air bars and restaurants, although we were always mindful of keeping valuables out of sight. A distinct contrast to the wealthier central area, but just as interesting. We ended up in the Recoleta area of the city and visited the mausoleum where Evita is buried. That in itself was an eye opener. The mausoleum houses many tombs, like small houses, and you wander around the 'streets' to view them. In the evening we went to a Tango Dinner show downtown, in an art deco theatre. Very Strictly!
Next stop was a flight to Iguazu Falls. You will read on a previous blog about an earlier visit, but this time I returned with my husband as this place is awesome, and possibly my favourite place in the world. Our hotel was outside the park, but in the rain forest, so we saw monkeys and wildlife within the grounds. First exploring the Argentinian side of the Falls, you take a small train to the giant Devils Throat, at the head of the Falls. With over 1.6 million litres of water a second thundering over the 285 waterfalls that make up the Iguzu Falls, it is a sight to behold. There is a walkway too that goes over the smaller falls, with views into infinity, seeing double height falls. We also took a boat that took us right into the spray at the foot of one of the falls, naturally getting soaked to the skin, but great fun. They provide a waterproof bag to but your own bag, camera, and shoes to keep them dry. It was like sitting under a full-on shower! There was also another more leisurely boat trip on the quieter part of Rio Iguazu, which was peaceful. After a full day there, we hopped over the border to another dinner show with 7 South American countries represented by dancers performing traditional dances from their countries.
We had the next morning free to relax and pack ready for our evening departure to Rio, but first we travelled over the border into Brazil and stop at a view point where 3 countries, Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil met, and then continued to the Brazilian side of the Falls. Unlike my last visit this time there were thousands of butterflies, numerous cute coatis, and a few monkeys all around us. The views from the Brazilian side are just as awesome and a must if you want to experience everything the Falls has to offer. We made our way along the walk ways, gradually getting wet from the spray, but well worth it. Our guide took us straight to the airport for our flight.
With just a day in Rio I wanted to revisit the sights. First stop Christ Redeemer, with views across to Copacabanca, Ipanema and Sugar Loaf Mountain. Next, we drove to Sugar Loaf and got the cable car to the top. The views were beautiful. We watched planes land at the domestic airport below us and took in the panorama. I could have spent hours there. Next stop was the cathedral that houses 20,000 people and looks like a dalek from the outside. Inside is impressive and symbolic, but the 1960's architecture didn't impress. We rediscovered the Selaron Steps, made up of thousands of tiles from around the world before returning to the airport for our flight home.
Sad to leave, it was epic and memorable!