Winter sunshine in The Gambia

Sandra Robinson on 31 January 2018
The Gambia is a country I've never considered visiting, so leaving the UK on a bitterly cold January morning, I had no preconceived idea of what to expect on my arrival.

The six-hour nonstop charter flight arrived mid-afternoon. It’s the same time as Britain so no need to adjust. It was lovely stepping out in the warm air, dressed in summer clothing. Immigration was a breeze, but slightly chaotic collecting our bags. Who knew it was OK to walk across the baggage belt!?

We had about a 45-minute drive through the capital Banjul to our resort, passing half-built buildings, corrugated roofs on shacks, goats, donkeys and colourful locals going about their business. I noticed how lovely the ladies were dressed in their traditional brightly coloured dresses with matching headwear. Clearly still a developing country, The Gambia's people struck me as the happiest I've seen on my travels. We passed people selling fruit and local crafts on the dusty roadside.

Our hotel, the Ngala Lodge, was an oasis of calm set in beautiful, if quirky gardens. We were greeted by Jonathan the English manager who welcomed us with a local juice drink, Wonjo, made from sorrel berries.

All the rooms are decorated in a different, but quirky way. For the first three nights we were in the original Gambian building, which was home to the owners. The room was spacious but could have done with an update. We had beautiful views overlooking the gardens from our balcony. We moved to a newer room for the next four nights as the resort was fully booked. We knew this in advance. The second room was lovely, with a hot tub and outside shower, our own pretty garden, and gate leading to a secluded pool, shared with their guests. I also looked around the Manor rooms, and the Atlantic Suites, all very nice and all with nice views.

There were many repeat guests, mainly British and Dutch, no children, which lays testament to the staff and general relaxed ambiance of the hotel. Each staff member remembers your name and I was particularly touched by the fact that Lamin, the pool lad, got our sunbeds ready for us in advance, without us knowing. Jonathan was right when he said the hotel was all about good service. Food in the restaurant was excellent and frequented by outside guests too.

We took a day trip into Senegal to visit the Wildlife Reserve at Fathala. To get there we rose at dawn (not that early, as sunrise is about 7am), drove back to Banjul and took the local ferry across the River Gambia to the north shore at Barra. The ferry crossing itself was an eye opener. Cars, trucks, people, babies and goats. We had to be careful not to have any valuables on show, as white people are targets for the local sales pitch. The crossing took about 40 minutes and we watched the sunrise. Then we boarded an open truck and travelled to the Senegalese border, about 30 minutes away. The roads were good and straight, although very dusty. We passed waving children, more animals and more run-down shacks on the way. The border was a busy place where locals had set up their wares and children asked for money, empty water bottles, anything they could sell on. No one was aggressive, and it all felt safe. We had to show our passports and yellow fever certificates at the border and were asked our occupation. They didn't know what a travel agent was!

On arrival at the Reserve, we had a quick comfort stop. We then drove into the Reserve. We were soon rewarded with views of zebras, rhino, warthogs, giraffe and various antelope species, a beautiful bright blue bird, and a couple of monkeys. Some were well camouflaged in the dry long grasses, but everyone onboard had their eyes peeled. All in all, a good trip to break up the week.

Out beyond the hotel are numerous places to eat, although a walk or taxi ride away. You book a taxi for the evening, for about £10 and they will wait while you have your meal. There are a few other excursions can book, such as boat trips along the river, bird watching, and cultural excursions too.

Sadly, we had to return home all too soon. My impression is that The Gambia has perfect winter sun temperatures, so ideal for a relaxing break away between November and May.