Cairo

Some people worry about Egypt, I’ve never fully understood why. Perhaps it’s a fear of the unknown, but sometimes the unknown can turn a holiday into an adventure. Cairo’s a bit like that - one big adventure. Yes it’s a big, frenetic, dusty, crowded city but at the same time there is a genuine warmth and sense of fun in the Egyptians. And while being in Cairo can seem a bit daunting if you’ve never been, if you’re prepared to ‘hold your nose and jump in’ there is a fantastic time to be had.

From the frantic bargaining in the Khan El Khalili to the serenity of Al Azhar Park, from the modern minimalist hotels to the ancient Pyramids and Sphinx there is seemingly nothing you can’t do.

I was in Cairo for a week and, not having been there for nearly 10 years, of course I had to see the Pyramids. Just to check they were still there - yes they are, and the Sphinx if you’re wondering!

It never ceases to amaze me that the Pyramids are accurate to less than one degree and they have stood 7 millennia and yet in my 100 year old house there isn’t a single straight wall!

It’s hot up on the Giza Plateau and I decide it’s time for a cold beer and where better than the gardens of the Mena House. Almost in the shade of the great Pyramid, it has been welcoming guests in resplendent luxury for 140 years. It is a stunning property. Unfortunately I’m on a bit of a budget so it’s back to the Sheraton for me. Which is no bad thing, my room overlooks the Nile and the island of Zamalek and as the sun fades to the west, in front of me the Cairo tower is performing its rotating light show and the lights of Cairo are reflected in the river.

As the temperature drops, Cairo comes alive and it’s time for a spot of bargain hunting. A taxi to the Khan El Khalili and a wander down the narrow passageways is just the thing. Past shops so tiny I can barely get inside them while shopkeepers eagerly try to entice me to part with my money. Rows upon rows of intricately designed perfume bottles glisten in windows alongside black basalt, alabaster and rose granite ornaments and jewellery of lapis lazuli. I’m looking for a couple of presents and eventually, after much haggling and endless mint tea, I extract myself from the Khan slightly lighter in the wallet but with a few nice pieces. I think I’ve got a good deal.

It’s about 4 stops on the metro to Gezira, on the southern end of Zamalek island and as I have to walk past the Sofitel on my way home, I pop into the Buddha Bar for a nightcap. The view down the Nile is amazing and as the gentle lounge music soothes me and I stare out of the window past the 3 story high Buddha, I know in the back of my mind that this time tomorrow I’ll be back in London. But that’s tomorrow. One more gin martini please.