Sri Lanka: One Small Island, A World of Variety

First Impressions: Negombo’s Coast & Character

My adventure began in Negombo, a relaxed coastal town not far from Colombo’s international airport. It is a lovely way to ease into Sri Lanka. I spent a day relaxing on the beach to recover from the night flight.

One of my first stops was St Mary’s Church, a pastel-painted Catholic church that reflects the town’s colonial heritage and Christian community. Down by the sea, I visited the bustling fish market, where the day’s catch is laid out in gleaming rows, from tiny silver fish to huge tuna. In the surrounding coconut groves, I watched toddy tappers at work, high up in the palm trees, moving expertly along ropes strung between them to collect the sap used to make the local toddy drink. It was pretty hairy watching them!

Into The Wild: Wilpattu National Park

From Negombo I travelled north to Wilpattu National Park, the largest national park in Sri Lanka, as well as being one of the least visited.

A three‑hour safari drive gave me a great introduction to Sri Lanka’s wildlife. We saw deer grazing in small herds, elk and wild boar moving through the undergrowth and a wealth of birdlife. We were lucky to spot a leopard, the undisputed star of the show, just about visible in the undergrowth!

Sacred Sites & Ancient Cities

At Mihintale, one of the main Buddhist pilgrimage sites, I climbed the stone steps up, passing shrines and smaller stupas along the way. At the top of Aradhana Gala (Meditation Rock), there was a peaceful stillness, interrupted only by the sound of bells and the murmur of prayers from a group of monks.

Nearby, I visited Sri Maha Bodhi Tree said to be one of the oldest surviving trees in Sri Lanka. Sitting quietly beneath its branches, it was easy to feel why this place is so significant to Buddhists and an important site for thousands of pilgrims every day.

In Anuradhapura, a UNESCO World Heritage site, the scale of the ancient capital is impressive. Scattered over a large area are monasteries, stupas and ruins that tell the story of a powerful and sophisticated civilisation.

Highlights for me included:

• Isurumuniya, a tranquil temple set beside water. I particularly loved the famous carving of the ‘smiling elephant’.
• Abhayagiri Dagoba, a vast stupa that hints at the importance and grandeur of the monasteries that once surrounded it.
• Ruwanweli Maha Seya (Ruwanwelisaya), a snow-white stupa encircled by a ring of carved stone elephants that seem to stand guard.
• Jetavanaramaya, the last major stupa I visited here, made of red brick and strikingly different in colour and texture.

Further on, Polonnaruwa, another UNESCO-listed ancient city, offered a slightly different atmosphere. Here, Hindu and Buddhist influences sit side by side, with temples, statues and ruins reflecting a layered history. I explored the remains of the Royal Palace, imagining its carved columns and multi-storey grandeur in its heyday. The whole site is wonderfully atmospheric, with shady trees, shimmering reservoirs and moss‑covered stone adding to the sense of discovery.

Caves, Cooking & Lakeside Relaxation

Next I visited the famed Dambulla Cave Temples, a complex of five caves decorated with hundreds of Buddha statues and vivid murals. Each cave has its own character, with ceilings painted in intricate patterns and scenes. Often described as a treasure-trove of Buddhist art, I took a lot of photos here!

We then joined a cooking class and demonstration. We ground spices, learned the subtleties of balancing heat and sweetness, and discovered just how many dishes can appear on a traditional rice and curry spread. Sitting down to enjoy what we had helped to prepare made it more special.

A well‑timed ayurvedic massage in the afternoon helped ease any stiffness from temple steps and early starts and was a lovely way to spend a few hours.

Sigiriya, Kandy & The Cultural Heartland

No journey through central Sri Lanka would be complete without Sigiriya. The enigmatic rocky outcrop is perhaps the country’s single most dramatic sight, as well as being on the UNESCO world heritage list. We were up early, at 5am, to start our climb of Sigiriya Rock.  It’s steep and can be a challenge in the heat, but for us it was misty that morning. Stepping between the enormous lion’s paws and into its mouth on the way up The views from the top were very atmospheric, although we couldn’t really see much of the surrounding countryside.

From there I travelled towards Kandy, with a wonderfully varied day along the way:

• A silk shop, where I watched fabrics being woven and learned about the process behind those beautiful scarves and sarongs.
• A wood carving workshop, full of intricate designs and skilled artisans at work.
• A visit to a spice garden, which included a guided tour and a fragrant lunch. Walking among the plants and seeing spices like cinnamon, cardamom and nutmeg in their natural form was fascinating.

The Temple of the Tooth

One of the most meaningful stops was the Temple of the Tooth. This lakeside temple is one of the most sacred Buddhist sites in Sri Lanka as it houses a relic believed to be a tooth of the Buddha. Visiting during one of the daily ceremonies, I joined worshippers carrying lotus flowers and incense, the air filled with the sound of drums and chanting. Inside, all the shrine rooms are richly decorated with every inch covered in paintings and patterns. There was a beautiful atmosphere and, even as a visitor, you could feel how important this place is to Sri Lanka.

In Kandy itself, I explored the Royal Botanical Gardens, with their broad avenues of palms, orchid houses and giant bamboo. It is a peaceful, colourful place that is ideal to wander slowly enjoying the environment.

I stopped at a gem workshop, learning why Sri Lanka is so renowned for its precious stones, and enjoyed lunch at a women’s cooperative, which added a meaningful community dimension to the day.

There was a little free time as well, so I hopped in a tuk tuk up to Bahirawakanda Buddha overlooking Kandy. The panorama of the city, lake and surrounding hills is especially beautiful towards late afternoon.

That evening, I attended a traditional dance show, complete with drums, colourful costumes and energetic choreography. It was a lively introduction to local performance traditions and a fun contrast to the calmer temple visits.

The next day brought a visit to a Hindu temple, where I witnessed fruit offerings and received a blessing. The atmosphere, music and colours were different again, underlining how different faiths coexist in Sri Lanka.

Later, I visited a batik workshop, watching fabrics being carefully painted with wax and dye to create vibrant patterns. The patience and precision required was impressive.

The Challenge & Reward of Adam’s Peak

One of the most memorable experiences of the trip was the night-time climb of Adam’s Peak. We set off at 1.30 am, climbing in the cool darkness by the light of lamps. The steps are steep and seem to go on forever, but there are small tea stalls along the way and a real sense of shared purpose as well as a desire to reach the summit.

Reaching the top in time for dawn, watching the sky slowly shift from deep blue to pink and gold, felt like a genuine achievement. The views across the surrounding hills are spectacular and it was most definitely worth the aching legs that I felt for two days after!

Later, a lunch stop at a tea estate was the perfect reward: hot tea, hearty food and the chance to rest tired legs.

Tea Country Charm: Nuwara Eliya to Ella

Driving further into the hill country, I visited the Labookellie Tea Estate, set at around 1,500 metres elevation. Here the hills are carpeted in neatly clipped tea bushes, dotted with brightly dressed tea pickers moving skilfully along the rows.  Learning how the leaves are picked, processed and graded gave me a new appreciation for that familiar cup of Ceylon tea. Tasting different varieties of tea, along with a slice of tea cake, was very enjoyable.

In Nuwara Eliya, often called “Little England”, I strolled through the market, past the charming old post office and other colonial-era buildings. The cooler climate and different architecture give it a distinct character.

The drive to Ella was beautifully scenic and we got to the Nine Arches Bridge just in time to watch the train follow the curve of the track high above the lush jungle. With those on the train and those of us watching, all waving and trying to take photos, it was a great sight.    

Elephants, Safaris & Glamping under the stars

A visit to the Elephant Transit Home offered a more intimate wildlife experience. Here young, injured or orphan elephants are cared for and rehabilitated before being returned to the wild. Watching the baby elephants running as fast as they could to get their milk was such a lovely sight to observe and would surely melt all hearts. It was fantastic to support the work they do with these elephants, knowing they would eventually go back to their natural habitat.

Later that day, a safari in Uda Walawe National Park, (one of the best places in the world to see elephants), gave me wonderful sightings of these gentle giants in a more open, wild setting. I learned that with Asian elephants only the males have tusks, and that they can eat 150 to 200 kilograms of food per day. We also spotted flamboyant peacocks, vibrant green bee-eaters and lurking crocodiles along waterways.

That night I stayed in camping/glamping style accommodation, surrounded by nature. Falling asleep to the sounds of the night, under canvas but with plenty of comfort, was an unforgettable way to connect more deeply with the landscape.

Coastal Charm: Galle, Beaches & Ice Cream Moments

Eventually it was time to head south to the coast and the historic city of Galle.

A walking tour took me through the old fort area, with its cobbled streets, colonial buildings and a mix of boutique shops and cafés. I visited the lighthouse and walked along the fort walls, watching waves crash against the ramparts. There was time for some shopping in the pretty boutiques and, of course, an obligatory ice cream stop in the afternoon heat.

The nearby beach at Koggala was the perfect place to exhale after the more active parts of the trip: soft sand, warm water and those iconic palm-fringed views. I also got to see the famous stilt fishermen – perched on wooden stilts, this unique and traditional fishing method, is still in use today.  

Colombo, Negombo Lagoon & Farewell

The journey eventually led back towards the capital city of Colombo, where the energy picks up once more with busy streets, modern buildings and a more urban feel. My friend and I enjoyed a fabulous cocktail at Galle Face Hotel, a colonial gem facing the sea, and watched as the sun set.

From there I returned to Negombo, circling back to where the trip began.  A peaceful boat trip on the Negombo Lagoon was a fitting finale: mangroves, birdlife and fishing boats passing quietly by as the sun lowered in the sky. It offered a moment to reflect on just how much I had seen and experienced on one island.