13 November 2020

The Kalolo-Lozi people had their own name for Victoria Falls — Mosi-oa-Tunya, “the smoke that thunders” and you immediately know why after seeing the plumes of mist that hover over this huge waterfall. On the border of Zimbabwe and Zambia, Victoria Falls is the perfect add-on to any Southern Africa trip. You can stay in either Victoria Falls town on the Zimbabwe side, or in Livingstone in Zambia. I spent several days in Victoria Falls at the end of an epic 4 week trip travelling overland from Cape Town. Victoria Falls town is small but it has everything you need – hotels, restaurants, bars and shops. I must add, there’s a fantastic local micro-brewery too! Do check out The River Brewing Co. when in town, you won’t be disappointed. Seeing the falls up close is nothing short of spectacular, as you stroll along the pathways on the Zimbabwe side, each time you turn a corner a new viewpoint of the falls reveals itself. Be prepared to get wet, even from here! The falls are at their full flow between February to May, after the summer rains, but even in October when I visited it was an incredible sight. There’s many activities you can partake in, depending on your adrenaline levels! It’s possible to bungee jump from the bridge that connects Zimbabwe and Zambia (not for me!) or take a microlight over the falls (from the Zambian side) or even a scenic helicopter flight. Personally, I opted for “Devils Pool”, it was a real bucket list moment for me. I crossed over to Zambia where we took a boat across the top of the falls, passing by the iconic Royal Livingstone Hotel, and disembarked at Livingstone Island. After a short walking tour of the island, right at the top of the falls, we waded across the flowing water and climbed down into Devils Pool. To be able to literally sit in a pool at the edge of Victoria Falls was out of this world! Leaning over to look down through the spray to the flowing river below was a moment I will never forget. To end our amazing adventure, we dined at another local icon – The Victoria Falls Hotel – if you’re not staying at the hotel, they do accept non-residents. Ensure to arrive early for dinner and enjoy a gin and tonic on the veranda, looking out over Victoria Falls as the sun sets. The perfect end to an incredible journey.

16 February 2022

After crossing the land border from Namibia’s Caprivi Strip, the next stop on our 4 week overland adventure from Cape Town to Victoria Falls was the incredible Chobe National Park, a true wildlife paradise and one of the best national parks in Southern Africa. Just one peek at the variety of wildlife and the lush vegetation and you’ll be mesmerised forever! Chobe is aptly known as the “Land of the Giants” as it’s home to Africa’s largest elephant population and comprises more than 10,000km2 of rich ecosystems, diverse landscapes and an almost unparalleled abundance of wildlife and birdlife, all centred around the stunning Chobe River. It’s well worth spending several nights here to take full advantage of the incredible game drives through the park, and an absolute must-do is a river safari. I have never seen so many elephants in one place, huge family groups strolling along the waters edge, it was absolutely phenomenal, and I don’t say that lightly. I’ve been very fortunate to go on countless game drives and safaris over the years and Chobe stands out as one of the best. So much so, I’m longing to return! I don’t often say that as there’s such a big wide world out there waiting to be explored, but it was an incredibly special place.

08 September 2019

After my trip to Peru last year I couldn’t wait to get back to South America and promptly booked my next foray to the continent! Chile could not have been more different from Peru, despite being neighbours and I found Chile to be one of the most scenically striking and diverse countries I’ve ever visited. A few days in the capital, Santiago, allowed me to recover from the long flight and whilst there we visited the World Heritage city of Valparaiso, just a short drive from Santiago. Valparaiso is a beautiful city, with multi-coloured houses sprawled across the hills. Some fantastic graffiti and artwork can be seen, and the city has a distinctly bohemian feel to it. Valparaiso is home to numerous funicular lifts, whilst many of these lifts have fallen into disrepair and sit suspended in time, there is a drive to restore as many as possible and we travelled in several during our visit. A short flight north to Calama in the Atacama Desert, saw us spend the next few nights in San Pedro de Atacama, a small dusty town in the desert. At dusk on our first night we set out to the Valley of the Moon. This bizarre lunar landscape is set ablaze with colour at sunset, the strange rock formations framed by the Lincancabur Volcano. A full day exploring the extraordinary local area brought us to an array of different landscapes. We set off towards the Altiplano Lagoons (Lagunas Altiplanicas) - Miscanti and Miñiques, set at 4,200m above sea level. The two volcanoes of the same name are visible in the background (almost 6,000m high). The twin lagoons are a deep blue, each framed by a white salt crust, which creates a memorable contrast to the yellow highland grass all around. It is completely silent here. Even the duck, the foxes, and the grazing vicuñas respect the majestic silence. Nearby is the Salar de Atacama. A salt lake of huge proportions, its surface is covered by a thick layer of snow-white salt crystals as far as the eye can see, caused by the evaporation of the lake’s water. The world’s largest lithium deposits are found here, but the salt pan is also home to several flamingo species, including the Andean, Chilean and James flamingo, who feed on the micro-organisms found in the saline lagoons. On our last full day in the Atacama Desert we were up at 4am to visit the El Tatio Geysers, located over 4,300m above sea level it is the world’s highest geyser field! It’s necessary to be up so early in order to arrive in time for sunrise, when the fountains shoot up to 10m high when the morning sun melts the nightly ice caps that form over the hot springs. The sun’s first rays reflect an array of colours as they mix with boiling jets coming from the geysers to create strong contrasts of steam and light. It was bitterly cold at this altitude and whilst we were exploring the geyser field, our driver was whipping up a much appreciated cooked breakfast and hot chocolate. I booked onto an astronomy tour on our last night, and whilst I’ve been privileged to witness some incredible stargazing in the past (notably in the Karoo in South Africa) this was by far superior to anything I had previously seen. We were blessed with clear skies and to see the entire Milky Way stretched out before our naked eyes was something I will never forget. We were treated to an informative talk by the resident French astronomer and were given the opportunity to look through the dozen telescopes set up. However, I enjoyed simply sitting on the ground staring up at the incredible spectacle overhead. Next up, The Lake District. Our base for the next couple of days was Puerto Varas on the shores of Lago Llanquihue. Also known as the 'City of the Roses'. From the shore of Lago Llanquihue you can enjoy breath-taking views of the Osorno and Calbuco volcanoes. We drove out to Saltos de Petrohue where cooling lava from the Osorno Volcano formed a series of rapids and waterfalls. Together they form an impressive sculpture of extruded volcanic rock shaped by thousands of years of river flow. At Petrohue we boarded a boat for a short cruise of Lago Todos los Santos (All Saints Lake). The view of the snow-capped Osorno Volcano behind us was simply breath-taking. Our final stop on the trip was Patagonia, the part I had been most looking forward to. A long travel day involved flying down to Punta Arenas, Patagonia - the southernmost city in Chile, and driving on to our overnight stop in Puerto Natales. A quaint little village sitting beside the “Canal Senoret” and facing the Sound (or Fiord) of Last Hope, it is a convenient stopping off point before entering Torres del Paine National Park. I was up early to see the sunrise over the mountains and fiord, along with a little stray dog who posed for some great photos against the spectacular backdrop! We had two days in Torres del Paine National Park, hiking and exploring. To be honest, I could have stayed longer. The views of the Towers and the Torres Massif from the Cuernos viewpoint and Salto Grande waterfall were out of this world, as we continued to be blessed with clear blue skies. A great day spent in the National Park topped off with a relaxing picnic taken at Laguna Azul. Our accommodation for the night was a rustic lodge located on the riverbank and offered a very peaceful setting. Another full day in Torres del Paine NP, this time exploring the Western side of the park including Lake Grey. This deep lake, fed by the glacier of the same name, is filled with icebergs which have splashed down from the massive ice flow. We started our short hike by crossing a suspension bridge over the Pingo River (I am definitely not a fan of suspension bridges!) From here the path leads through a forest and continues onward to the tip of the narrow peninsula at the lake’s southern end. This viewpoint offers a spectacular view of the lake with its icebergs, the tongue of Grey Glacier at the far northern end, and the snow-covered mountain peaks soaring above. I love a good boat trip, and that afternoon’s boat trip on Lake Grey did not disappoint! It was incredible to see a glacier up close. To top the day off, on the return we enjoyed a pisco sour (the national drink) served over glacier ice taken from the ice bergs on the lake!

08 September 2019

I’m incredibly lucky to visit Southern Africa each year, and over the years I’ve taken my now 8-year-old daughter on a number of safaris. To be perfectly honest, prior to her turning 7, the majesty of what she was seeing was completely lost on her. Her attention span just wasn’t there. It’s worth pointing out that although you do see lots of animals on safari, there can be quite a bit of time that passes between seeing big game animals, and as beautiful as they are, antelope do not keep young children entertained for long! From age 7 onwards she was much more engaged with the whole experience and her patience levels had increased somewhat, that I no longer want to jump out of the truck to escape her whinging! Now, it’s the most amazing thing, to share such incredible wildlife encounters with my daughter and to be able to teach her the importance of protecting these beautiful animals that are under threat. Whilst on safari in December, I saw a pack of African Wild Dogs for the first time, an amazing sighting in itself, but made all the more special by being able to share it with my daughter. In the interest of full transparency, I have to admit that even now, it takes some planning to ensure all goes smoothly! There are moments in between big animal encounters that she still gets pangs of boredom (you can expect be out in the bush for several hours at a time) so we often resort to a game of eye spy, or a spot of reading, or simply swinging on the truck bars like a monkey (her, not me!) Whatever it takes! Typically, you will have a game drive early in the morning and late in the evening, when the animals are most active. Surprisingly, it can be chilly when the sun drops, so do make sure to pack plenty of layers – a warm, windproof jacket for the cooler hours along with sunhat and sun cream for whilst the sun is up. When taking children on safari, I advise booking a lodge that offers a swimming pool so they can enjoy some downtime when not out on game drives. Some lodges will offer activities for children, anything from archery to traditional jewellery making whilst others have beautiful wooden play areas. Thankfully, there’s often little or no wi-fi at many lodges, so you can really escape the digital world, much to many teenagers’ horror, I'm sure! Take a pack of cards and enjoy some quality family time in the surroundings of the magical African bush. Many families choose to take their first safari experience in either South Africa or Kenya: In South Africa, you can combine your safari as part of a longer itinerary perhaps driving the Garden Route from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth, or enjoying a relaxing beach break in Kwa Zulu Natal, many opt to fly on to Mauritius or the Seychelles for a beach stay after their safari. Kenya is the perfect destination for a two centre safari & beach trip, with the Masai Mara or Northern game reserves providing an incredbile safari experience (make sure to book a hot air balloon safari for sunrise, which typically includes a Champagne breakfast in the bush). Following safari, fly on to the coast for a week of R&R – there’s something for all tastes here from large modern resorts to rustic beach bandas that provide a more authentic experience. Families with older children, or those who’ve previously visited Africa, there's the appeal of getting even more off the beaten track. For this, Namibia is a great option as it has so much to offer adventurous families and it's very easy (and safe) to self-drive. Africa is the perfect family holiday destination, with so much to offer; wildlife, culture, beaches, water sports plus amazing food & wine (particularly in the Cape).

25 June 2019

The idea of travelling solo can be quite a daunting one. Having previously travelled with friends or family, including a three-week trip travelling around Thailand last year just my daughter and I, I had never travelled on my own. I decided to take the plunge and booked a trip to Peru last year with Intrepid. I felt the best way to travel “solo” was in fact with a group of fellow travellers! For me, the idea of travelling with a small group of fellow minded explorers gave me a sense of safety and security whilst also being social. The added bonus of having a local guide throughout meant my lack of Spanish wasn’t a problem and we got some great local tips! Sitting on the plane en-route to Lima, I started to think “what on earth have I done?”, what if I didn’t like travelling as part of group with people I’d never met before? I like my space and having time to myself to just soak in my surroundings. I needn’t have worried. My 5 fellow travellers from the UK, Ireland and Australia soon became friends for life and I couldn’t have asked for better companions. I still found plenty of time for myself, and with free days/afternoons in the schedule I was able to potter around either on my own or with my travel companions. The whole experience was quite liberating; I was able to choose what trip I wanted to go on and when I wanted to go without having to compromise or work to someone else’s schedule! My advice to anyone who’s considering travelling solo, whether that be on a small group tour, or completely on their own – just do it. Take the plunge. You won’t regret it. In fact, I enjoyed it so much that earlier this year I travelled to Chile on an Exodus small group tour and had another amazing trip (blog to follow soon!), without any of the pre-trip apprehensions I had the previous time. I knew exactly what I was getting into this time and looked forward to meeting my fellow travellers. This group was slightly larger at 16 (their max. group size) and the mix of age & nationalities was fantastic as we all brought something to the group. You’ll find most people have a similar attitude as they’re there to really experience the host country and again, I made friends for life. Testament to how much I enjoy these small group adventure tours, I’m taking my 8 year old daughter on an Exodus family trip to Costa Rica this summer (slower paced and with more free days/afternoons to enjoy family time) and later in the year I’m spending 4 weeks in Southern Africa, 3 of which are with Exodus on their Cape Town – Vic Falls trip. Stay tuned for these blogs! There are a variety of companies offering small group tours, each offering something different - there are cycling tours, food tours, adventure tours, 5* tours and National Geographic tours to name just a few!

25 June 2019

Ah, Mozambique. Even it’s name sounds exotic. One of my favourite places I’ve visited in Africa. We stayed in Ponta do Ouro, a sleepy little town just over the border from South Africa. The beach was beautiful and the sea, like a warm bath! There’s a small selection of craft stalls where you can purchase local wares, or if you’re feeling brave pick up some homemade mampoer – a white spirit made from fermented fruit – think moonshine, it’ll knock your socks off! The stand out moment for me, was sitting in a rustic restaurant overlooking the beach sampling the most amazing and possibly the biggest prawns I’ve ever tasted! The food has a heavy Portuguese influence and you’ll find Peri Peri Chicken everywhere, but the seafood is the real winner here. If you’re an avid diver, you won’t want to miss the many world-renowned dive sites off the coast of Mozambique – think Nelson’s Arm. Whale Sharks and Manta Rays can be spotted throughout the year in Mozambique Waters, but they tend to be seen more often in Summer (our Winter). Two hotspots for viewing them while on diving and snorkelling excursions are Praia do Tofo and the Bazaruto Archipelago. In Tofo they are most concentrated between September and February and in the Bazaruto Archipelago they congregate between October and April. February is the month for cyclones though so best to be avoid if possible. Swimming and snorkelling with both creatures is possible, but you do need to be responsible and follow strict guidelines for interaction.

21 June 2019

Peru – just the name invokes mystical images, fascinating history and a melting pot of cultures. Most trips will start off in the capital, Lima (British Airways offer direct flights from London). Stroll atmospheric streets flanked with ornate mansions, palaces and Spanish colonial churches, taking in Plaza Mayor, the Cathedral of Lima, the San Francisco Monastery and the central market. I recommend taking a stroll through Barranco to see the incredible street art. If you’re a seafood fan, you must try the ceviche whilst on the coast – we stopped by a great family run restaurant on the seafront in Chorillos. The small seaside town of Paracas is the departure point for boat trips to Isla Ballestas, also known as the poor man’s Galapagos! We had a smooth ride out in a rib and were able to see many sea lions along with penguins and a variety of bird species. The guano that covers the rocks here is still harvested today for use in fertilisers! A quick lunch stop at the oasis town of Huacachina did not disappoint and given the chance I’d have enjoyed spending a night or two here. There are lots of activities to partake in locally including sand boarding and dune buggies. One of my highlights of this trip was the Nazca Lines. You really do need to take the 30min flight over the figures to appreciate how incredible they are, and how vast the area is. It’s certainly not for the faint heartened but it was a moment I’ll never forget. The beautiful city of Arequipa is surrounded by volcanoes and the best place to take in this incredible vista is Yanahuara Viewpoint. Whilst in Arequipa we had a tour of the beautiful cathedral which takes centre stage in the main plaza, along with visiting the Santa Catalina Monastery and a variety of local museums. A rather harrowing tale is that of Juanita, an Inca girl sacrificed in the 1440’s. Opt for dinner in the square – try one that has a rooftop terrace. On to Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca, and the altitude really starts to take a toll on the body. Sitting at 3820m above sea level one can feel the effects of reduced oxygen in the air. Hotels in the region often provide Coca Tea free of charge to guests as it helps combat the effects of altitude. Lake Titicaca was breath taking, a visit to the Uros Islands – floating reed islands – was informative and it was interesting to learn about how the islands are constructed. They did feel like a bit of a tourist trap, but it was a fascinating part of the day, nonetheless. On to Taquile Island, for a short hike (a big effort at this altitude) and we were rewarded with stunning views across Lake Titicaca. It was fascinating watching the locals go about their daily business on this car-free island, where everything must be transported on their backs! It was like stepping back in time. As we arrived into Cusco, I definitely felt we’d hit the tourist trail. Many travellers fly straight into Cusco from Lima but it’s worth noting that by flying straight to Cusco you do not give your body time to acclimatise to the altitude (for us, Cusco was a breeze as it’s over 400m lower than Lake Titicaca) nor do you get to visit the other amazing places mentioned above. Despite the influx of tourists, Cusco was still a lovely city. Do take a walk up the backstreets, there are stunning viewpoints to be found and great little shops full of local handiworks. We visited the home of a local musician who also made instruments by hand. Whilst we sat in his cosy living room listening to him play, I felt as though I’d been transported back in time. After a quick visit to the Inca fortress of Sacsayhuaman, we embarked upon a beautiful drive through the Sacred Valley to the small town of Ollantaytambo. En-route we visited a local community and learnt about their local traditions and language, it was a great insight into their way of life, and they served us up a superb traditional Peruvian lunch. Whilst in Ollantaytambo, make sure to visit the Inca archaeological site, it offers incredible views across the valley. From Ollantaytambo we caught the train to Aguas Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu. Most tours include a morning visit to Machu Picchu, although you can hire a local guide if you do not have one pre-arranged. Due to increasing visitor numbers, stricter regulations were put into place at Machu Picchu last year, including specific ticket entry times and a maximum stay of 4hrs. As we had a free afternoon in Aguas Calientes we decided to purchase an extra ticket to Machu Picchu and take the bus up on our own – and I am so pleased that we did! There was hardly anybody else there and we were able to just take our time exploring. There is something truly out of this world about Machu Picchu, something that is very hard to put into words. It was simply mesmerising. Our experience the following morning was completely different as we’d been spoilt visiting outside of peak visiting hours. Whilst it was great to have a guide with us to explain the history of the site, I found it quite overwhelming just how many people were there. One thing that struck me whilst in Peru was the strong family bonds – weekends are dedicated to family time - Granny’s Grandpa’s, parents and grandchildren were frequently seen out together as an extended family group, enjoying one another’s company. It certainly made me reflect upon how busy our life in the UK can be and whether we make enough effort to spend quality time with our wider family on a frequent basis. Overall, an incredible trip that certainly did not disappoint. If you’re planning a visit try and see as much of this incredible country as you can, get off the beaten track and learn a little Spanish so you can interact with the locals. Some amazing places to visit that I didn’t get around to seeing on this trip include The Colca Canyon to see condors in the wild, the Rainbow Mountain and the Peruvian Amazon. Peru can be enjoyed on a variety of budgets - there’s everything from hostels to luxurious 5*properties. Whilst in Cusco I visited the Belmond Hotel Monasterio, a former monastery and national monument dating from 1592 – it was simply beautiful, and I returned to spend a lovely evening with friends sipping Chilcano’s in front of the open fire. For an alternative way to travel, it’s also worth mentioning the Belmond Andean Explorer, South America’s first luxury sleeper train which travels between Cusco and Arequipa. Don’t forget to try the Pisco Sours!

17 September 2019

With British Airways now offering direct flights between London and Durban, KwaZulu Natal has become even more accessible to UK holidaymakers. Beautiful beaches hug the Indian Ocean, historic battlefield sites dot the countryside and rugged mountain tops frame the bright blue African sky. I’ve visited KZN 5 times in total, twice to the North Coast and three times to the South Coast. North of Durban, I’ve spent time in both St Lucia and Kosi Bay (on the Mozambique border), both are peaceful locations with stunning beaches and great wildlife encounters: St Lucia is a lovely little town and is the hub to the Greater St Lucia Wetlands Park. There’s a variety of good restaurants in town – I was treated to a crocodile steak (surprisingly, it tasted just like chicken!) and some great fish & chip shops! Activities here are mainly centred around the water – I went on my first deep sea fishing trip here and didn’t do too badly if I say so myself! The long golden beach is just breathtaking, and rather unusual in that you must first go round the lagoon, cross over wooden walkways through the dense tropical vegetation, with giant crocs & hippos in sight! Be sure to visit Cape Vidal Nature Reserve – go early as the number of visitors allowed in each day is limited – you’ll be treated to sightings of rhino, zebra, giraffe and plenty of buck as you drive through. End up at the most amazing tropical beach, remember to pack a snorkel! Kosi Bay is located just a mile from the Mozambique border, on the very North East coast of South Africa. I spent just over a week here camping with my daughter and extended family and it is one of the most beautiful places I’ve visited in South Africa. We stayed at a lovely, rustic campsite just outside the entrance to Kosi Bay Nature Reserve – there are a number of campsites and lodges in the area, some only accessible by 4x4 – but the best part is the Nature Reserve itself. Drive through coastal forest until you reach the shores of Lake Nhlange where you set up camp for the day. Make sure to bring plenty of food & drinks and a gazebo for shade as there are no facilities here, it is completely untouched. The area is well known for its fantastic snorkelling and excellent fishing but also for the amazing wildlife. In the summer months, turtles come ashore to nest on the reserves beaches, whilst in the winter humpback whales can be seen on their migration towards Mozambique’s warm waters where they go to calve. A short drive away is Tembe Elephant Park, a 300km2 reserve, the ancestral home of the Tembe tribe who own and co-manage both the Park and the Tembe Elephant Lodge. Apart from its magnificent elephants (including some of the biggest living tuskers), Tembe is home to the Big Five, as well as more than 340 bird species and a host of other animals and plants. Its unique sand forest, swamp and savannah eco-system is a timeless world of hot silence and white sand, a refuge from the busy modern world. You can pop in for the day and self-drive or there is a lodge on site which offers guided safari drives. I’ve also visited much of the coast south of Durban and have stayed in San Lameer, Uvongo (just outside Margate) and Hibberdene. There are endless beaches on this stretch of coast and you can enjoy a typical beach holiday with an African flare. Great food, particular fresh fish & curries! It’s preferable to stay in one of the quieter towns/villages along the coast as the beaches around Durban and in the bigger towns do get very busy, particularly over Christmas & New Year. For those of you who are adrenaline junkies, you must visit Lake Eland & The Oribi Gorge – extreme ziplining (which my daughter loved, but I must admit terrified me!!) and bungee jumps! Not for the faint hearted. Those looking for 5* luxury, The Oyster Box Hotel in Umhlanga is to die for! We’ve driven through the Drakensburg Mountains on many occasions, often on our way from the Free State, and always packed a breakfast picnic to enjoy whilst watching the sunrise over the mountains. For those interested in hiking there are some superb trails. For history buffs there’s a significant number of historical battle sites to explore, including the two most famous: Isandlwana and Rorke's Drift. Set amongst the beautiful rolling countryside of Northern and Central KwaZulu Natal, these battles shaped the history of both South Africa and Britain.

04 September 2018

This summer I embarked upon a South East Asian adventure with my seven year old in tow; it made for many special moments together, and a few moments of madness – but I think that’s normal when travelling with children?! Khao Lak We started our adventure in Khao Lak, just north of Phuket and whilst July is the beginning of the rainy season in this part of Thailand, we knew that beforehand and didn’t let it deter us! Our aim for this part of the trip was to unwind from our busy lives back home and to enjoy complete relaxation. This we did. Actually the intermittent rain made that a lot easier to do! Whilst my daughter enjoyed swimming in the beautiful pools regardless of the weather, it gave me the opportunity to curl up undercover and immerse myself in a book. We stayed at the relatively new Bangsak Merlin Resort, about 15 minutes’ drive outside of Khao Lak town, meaning it was lovely and peaceful. The rooms were of an excellent quality, the staff couldn’t do enough for us, and the food was sublime. With three huge swimming pools to choose from, my daughter was in her element! The beachfront location was great, although the sea at that time was too rough for swimming, it didn’t impact our stay at all. Khao Sok National Park Onwards to the incredible Elephant Hills in Khao Sok National Park, just an hour or so drive from our previous hotel. Wow! What a place. Accommodation is in the jungle in canvas tents, now I’m not one for camping, but this was something different. Hand carved wooden bed, handmade furniture and an en-suite shower room, all surrounded by virgin jungle. It was magical, lying in bed at night and listening to the sounds of the rainforest, although I wasn’t so pleased with the Black Frog at 1am! The highlight here is the interaction with the elephants. It is all very ethical, there are no chains, no whips, no mistreatment and the camp has won many awards for its ethical handling of the elephants, its sustainability and support it provides the local communities. These elephants were all worked in the logging industry, until it was outlawed in 1989. Elephants are very expensive to feed and house and as they were all domesticated they couldn’t be returned to the wild, this is why so many ended up on the streets of Bangkok and other cities, begging with their Mahouts or having to give rides, which are harmful to their spines. Today, at Elephant Hills their “work” is to be fed by tourists and to be washed, that’s it. They enjoy life in beautiful surroundings and are well cared for and looked after. My daughter bonded with “Mercy” and it was actually quite emotional watching them, stood face to face, my daughters’ hand on Mercy’s trunk, just looking at each other, almost as if they were connecting on some deeper level. Depending on how much time you have at Elephant Hills, your trip may include a traditional long boat trip on Cheo Lan Lake. Wow, this was by far the most strikingly beautiful part of Thailand that we saw, it was mesmerising with huge limestone cliffs and islands – it definitely made for some great pictures! Elephant Hills also have a Floating Rainforest Camp here on Lake Cheo Lan, where you can spend the night. We enjoyed the camp for an afternoon – swimming in the turquoise lake, kayaking and then sitting back and soaking in the view with a hot chocolate. Perfect. Koh Samui From Elephant Hills it’s just a few hours’ drive and a ferry ride across to Koh Samui, this transfer was included with our stay at Elephant Hills and was very well organised. Travelling just the two of us, I wasn’t sure what to expect from the ferry, but it was very simple to do. The steep ramp up and back down was interesting with two big suitcases but luckily there are staff on hand to help! (Very much appreciated in my case!) We then had a week in Koh Samui to enjoy some relaxation and beach time. It is touristy, as one would expect, but for what we wanted, it was perfect. Do venture out of the hotel grounds, it’s perfectly safe. I found a great laundrette - £1.50 per kg to be washed, dried and ironed! Perfect! There are also some great places to get a foot massage – this became part of our daily routine, and at approx. £7 for both of us, I couldn’t say no - or try a Thai Massage, not for the faint hearted! I did find travelling just my daughter and I that I wasn’t completely comfortable exploring as the evening progressed, so we tended to be back in the hotel grounds by 8pm. A great day trip from Koh Samui is to Angthong Marine Park, my daughter and I both love the ocean, and I used to do a lot of scuba diving, many moons ago now! To be able to snorkel over a coral reef holding hands with my daughter, was for me, the highlight of our trip. The marine life was abundant, coral in good health and the guide very knowledgeable. We spent the afternoon on an idyllic island, snorkelling, watching the wild monkeys and enjoying a fab Thai lunch buffet. Our hotel, Centara Grand Beach Hotel was perfect for us – located right on Chaweng Beach, we had the best of both worlds – the gorgeous beach, lots to do on our doorstep and then a beautiful pool area to relax in too. I’d highly recommend. Bangkok What a shock to the system! A complete sensory overload, very much like the first time I visited Marrakech. It is busy. Some parts are touristy. The cultural sites were amazing though, and the food divine. We pre-booked a private guide for the day, and I am so pleased we did. Nuna was incredible – she arranged the perfect day for us, including trips to the temples, royal palace and a longtail boat trip along the canals. We were up early to try and watch the Buddhist Monks chanting and were rewarded instead with an ordination that was taking place, it was incredible to sit there with the family and friends marking this great honour, and we cherish having been there to witness part of the ceremony. The architecture of attention to detail of all the sites was quite astounding, so many hours of labour having gone into creating these places of worship and remembrance. We finished off our Thai adventure with a table on the Apsara Dinner Cruise, run by The Banyan Tree Hotel. The cruise takes place aboard a traditional Thai wooden boat, with Thai food and music. The service was unbeatable, and we thoroughly enjoyed the evening.

06 June 2018

My daughter and I visited the UAE for 10 nights and decided to make the most of our holiday by encompassing 3 very different environments: the beach, the desert and the city, across 2 emirates: Ras al Khaimah and Dubai. The Beach We stayed at the Double Tree by Hilton, Marjan Island in Ras al Khaimah and had a very relaxing stay here. Marjan Island is approx. 1hour drive from Dubai Airport (depending on traffic in Dubai!) and is an interesting drive through the desert. The beach here was beautiful, the waters of the Persian Gulf felt like being in a warm bath, it was just perfect! My daughter made use of the variety of pools and the on-site water park, making many friends along the way. The buffet food was of a good quality for all-inclusive and included a large amount of locally inspired dishes. For a quieter stay, consider either the pool view rooms or the Bay Club which are located away from the main hotel building. The Desert The beautiful Ritz Carlton Al Wadi Desert, Ras al Khaimah, is situated on 1,235-acre nature reserve and has wild Arabian Oryx and Gazelles wondering around – they spend most of the day sheltering from the heat but during the late afternoon and evening they can be seen close by the villas. The tented villa we stayed in was incredible, I felt like a Bedouin Princess for our time here. The private pool was of a very good size and offered spectacular views across the desert. The bathroom and dressing room were of a very good size and the facilities were of a very high standard. What stood out most at this hotel was the staff; nothing was too much trouble, they genuinely cared about making our stay special. Chef offered to make my daughter, a very fussy eater (!), special dishes at each mealtime including “the best pancakes ever”! The food was of an excellent quality and we sampled room service, the Khaleela Restaurant and The Farmhouse restaurant. My daughter made use of the activities on offer including a camel ride, falcon show and pony splash morning. They also offer archery etc and each villa is provided with bicycles should one wish to explore the resort by bike. Sadly, it was a bit too hot for us so we stuck to the golf buggy! The City The St Regis Al Habtoor Polo Club & Resort, Dubai, was a great place to finish our stay. Situated amongst beautiful polo fields (polo is played here during the Winter months roughly Oct-Apr) the resort was peaceful and incredibly decadent. Following the theme of our UAE stay, the staff were outstanding, with the F&B Manager organising special dishes for my daughter – happy child = happy mummy! They were incredibly kind to us. The food here was amazing, we sampled the Tapas Restaurant for lunch and I was blown away by the quality of the dishes. Cooked in an open kitchen by a Spanish Chef, I felt as though I had been transported to Andalucía the food was so authentic. As we were in the UAE during Ramadan we enjoyed their Iftar buffet on our last night, and wow what an offering. The variety and quality of the dishes was fantastic, but it was the atmosphere which was most spectacular, with local residents coming together as a family to break their fast. Travelling during Ramadan Visiting the UAE during Ramadan did not greatly impact our stay. To my daughter, age 7, it made absolutely no impact to her stay at all. Except that we had discussed it beforehand from an educational point of view. I believe in being respectful to local cultures wherever I travel in the world, and so I did my research beforehand. Whilst I dress quite conservatively anyway, I ensured that whilst out in public, and at the restaurants in the evenings, that my shoulders and knees were covered. Whilst relaxing by the pool/beach in resort, it’s absolutely fine to be in a bikini/swimwear but do remember to cover up when going to lunch or going inside the hotel. In regard to food and drink, in one hotel there were no restrictions at all and they continued to serve alcohol throughout the day. In another, the only restriction was that the pool bar was not serving alcohol. Do remember that when outside the hotel one should not eat or drink whilst in public, this does include whilst in a taxi/car. It was actually a great time to travel to the UAE, most hotels are quiet during this time and therefore prices can be lower than normal.

15 May 2018

The otherworldly scenery in Iceland left me speechless many times during my visit. At every turn of the road there was a new sight to behold, each just as spectacular as the last. I visited in May, which was perfect as it’s before the peak summer season, the roads were empty and other than a few potholes here and there, they were very easy to drive. The weather was very changeable, and on more than one occasion we seemed to experience all four seasons in one hour! Do make sure to pack lots of layers and proper waterproofs, the top temperature during our trip was 6 degrees and we experienced everything from freezing cold rain to cornflower blue skies. Blue Lagoon To soak in the warm blue waters at The Blue Lagoon was amazing, I felt instantly relaxed and rejuvenated after our early morning flight. Do make sure to book in advance as we met people on our travels who even in the quiet season couldn’t get in. It’s best to visit early morning or late afternoon if you can, to avoid the crowds and it ties in perfectly to visit when you first arrive or on your way back to the airport. Whale Watching We took a whale watching boat tour from Reykjavik Harbour and although it was quite choppy we did get to see a Mink Whale and several White Beaked Dolphins playing alongside the boat. There are some lovely restaurants in the harbour, we were staying very close by and visited Del Rio for lunch and Caruso for dinner, the food here was divine. Dining out in Iceland can be expensive so do factor this in. South Coast We opted to drive straight out to Reynisfjara and stop at all the sights on our way back to Reykjavik so we weren’t rushing. Reynisfjara black sand beach was stunning, you can see the Reynisdrangar sea stacks, which are said to be petrified trolls that were caught outside at sunrise and frozen in time! Just a short drive is Dyrholaey from where you have amazing views out across Reynisfjara Beach and can see the huge stone sea arch. Solheimajokull Glacier was amazing to see, to just stand there and view this huge glacier up close was mesmerising. Glacier hikes can be organised in advance, we sadly did not have time, but we did see a group of walkers with their crampons in hand! Two fabulous waterfalls are located along this route. At Seljalandsfoss you can follow the path up behind the waterfall as it cascades over steep cliffs – but be prepared to get wet! The second waterfall is Skogafoss, where you can climb a fairly steep set of stairs up to the top of the waterfall and peer out across the edge from the viewing platform! Golden Circle We had every intention of leaving early for our drive out to the Golden Circle, but fate had other plans for us as we had a flat tyre (luckily whilst still in Reykjavik!) I had chosen to book a local car hire company, Lotus Car Rental, and they were amazing. The founder of the business came out himself to change our tyre, so we didn’t have to wait several hours for the recovery company! You can’t get much better service than that. Once we got on our way, our first stop was Kerid, a beautiful blue crater lake. The colour changed along with the weather! Onto Geysir and Gulfoss which are located just a 10-minute drive from each other. Gulfoss waterfall was spectacular, the sheer power of the water cascading down was amazing. Our trip to the Geysir was interesting, after standing and viewing Strokkur Geysir shoot water up 30m into the air we had a little wonder around the hot pools – 80-100 degrees Celsius – before deciding to go back and try and video ourselves with Strokkur exploding behind us. We picked a spot away from everybody else, maybe this should have been a sign, and whilst videoing we realised why this spot was clear, what goes up must come down! We got absolutely soaked! Check out my Facebook page for the video! After several hours exploring we decided to stop at Fontana Spa for a soak and it was incredible. Located on the lake it has amazing views, and even steps down into the lake for those who are brave enough to take a dip! There are several pools, all heated at different temperatures and we tried them all, simply fabulous to simply lay back and relax. We were recommended a local farm to stop for a spot of lunch – Efstidalur – and the burgers were incredible. Rather bizarrely though, there are windows from the restaurant that look over the cow shed!! Our last stop on the Golden Circle drive was Thingvellir, we arrived at 8pm and had the place to ourselves! Thingvellir sits on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge marking the boundary of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates and thus has the most incredible scenery. We visited the beautiful waterfall and walked all the way along the paths until reaching a view point over Thingvallavatn, Iceland’s largest natural lake. Reykjanes Peninsula We had a late-night flight back to the UK so decided to make the most of our last day with a drive through the Reykjanes Peninsula, and I’m so pleased we did. We were blessed with bright blue skies for our last day, and what a difference it made! Kleifarvatn is a deep mineral lake with black sand beaches, the views were incredible from here and we spent a bit of time snapping some great photographs. Gunnuhver is a geothermal area and has a hot spring and a vent where you can see hot steam billowing out from below the Earth’s crust – this was quite incredible to see and did make us wonder what was going on just below our feet! Valahnukur is one of the most wild and wonderful spots on the peninsula, there are huge cliffs that are home to colonies of sea birds plus the lovely Reykjanesviti lighthouse, the oldest in Iceland. One of the most incredible places on the Reykjanes Peninsula is the Bridge Between Two Continents – and the bridge literally spans the plate boundary. There is a sand filled gulley underneath, which you can walk along! All in all, an incredible trip to Iceland. Would I return? Absolutely! I’m already thinking about when I can return, and next time hope to visit in Summer to drive the Western Fjords, The Snaefellsness Peninsula along with a visit to the north.

06 April 2018

I was lucky enough to take my daughter to Lapland a few days before Christmas, and it really was the perfect lead up to the big day. We flew from Southampton to Enontekio in Finnish Lapland, and when we arrived at Southampton Airport we were greeted by two elves at the “Santa’s Flight” check-in desk! Along with our boarding passes, we were given an activity pack for my daughter along with a Christmas song sheet! Upon arrival in Enontekio, we were swiftly taken through to a changing area where we were given snowsuits to don along with snow boots if we so wished, however we had brought our own along. After changing, you board a sleigh pulled by a snowmobile which takes you out across the frozen lake – beautiful scenery – to the main activity areas. In winter, the sun does not break the horizon and the place has a very mystical feel about it, especially with all the candles and fairy lights lighting the way. What struck me was how well thought out everything was, and thankfully not at all tacky, but rather quite tastefully done. There was plenty of activities available to keep the children busy, and the great thing was that you didn’t need to pre-book them, it was all free flow. The one activity you do need to schedule is your visit with Father Christmas, and I recommend going to schedule this soon after you arrive, so that you can choose a time that suits you best. With only our flight there, the resort was not overcrowded, and we never once queued for an activity, this was also helped by the fact the activities are spread out over a fairly large area, so you do have to walk a short distance in-between each one – perfect time for a family snowball fight! There were reindeer sleigh rides, skating, husky sleigh rides (my daughter’s personal favourite), sledging, skidoo rides for children as well as one for adults and older children that goes out across the lake, and a fabulous ice hotel with a bar serving spicy tea. You can go around to each activity as many times as you wish, which was fantastic as my daughter lead the way the whole day! The on-site restaurant, in the style of a log cabin, serves pasta, jacket potatoes, soup etc all day and again you can visit as many times as you like. The hot chocolate was a big hit and it was nice to be able to just pop in and warm up every now and then, as all the food and drinks are included in your package price. The highlight of our day was our meeting with Father Christmas. At your scheduled visit time you make your way to a lovely log cabin with an open fire to await your transportation. You will be the only ones here, so the whole experience feels very personal. You will be taken by sleigh across the lake to a shelter with another open fire, whilst you wait your turn. Again, you do not see any other families, and so are made to feel incredibly special. When Father Christmas is ready for you, it's just a short walk along a snowy, forested path until you come across his cabin, where Father Christmas and his helper will be awaiting your arrival. Even as an adult, I felt this was a very special moment, and the look on my daughter’s face whilst she was sat talking to Father Christmas was enough to make my heart melt! Back via sleigh to the main area, you are free to continue enjoying the activities on offer until it is time for your coach ride back to the airport. It’s worth noting there is a small gift shop on site as well as one at the airport, if you wish to buy any souvenirs or Christmas presents! The flight back was unbelievably quiet, with most of the children fast asleep after their action-packed day!

01 April 2018

I am lucky enough to visit South Africa yearly to see family, but our trip down to the Western Cape was particularly special, and I have to say it is so far my favourite part of South Africa. Whilst many will choose to fly into Cape Town from the UK and travel eastwards along the Western Cape, often finishing in Port Elizabeth for their flight home, we were already in Johannesburg visiting Family and so we drove down over two days, visiting Kimberley and The Big Hole along the way. It was absolutely fascinating to see the turquoise water in The Big Hole, from a very high viewing platform (!) and to walk through the underground mining shafts, not for the faint-hearted! Our overnight stop was spent in the middle of The Karoo, a semi-desert region, and very sparsely populated. The Karoo is home to a range of xerophytic vegetation, and Karoo Lamb is much famed for its flavour. At night, whilst sat enjoying a cold beer and a braai (a barbeque using wood or coals) the night sky was simply mesmerising – the stars were so large that they looked as though one could simply pluck them from the sky! For part of our two-week trip we were based in Gansbaai, a small fishing town that is also the centre of South Africa’s cage diving industry. The waters off Dyer Island near Gansbaai are aptly named Shark Alley and are known for their exceptional Great White Shark populations. Shark Alley is a deep underwater channel and is where Great Whites have been pictured propelling themselves out of the water! The sharks are attracted by the massive 60,000 strong Cape Fur Seal colony which inhabits the smaller island of Geyser Rock. My mother-in-law and I had booked to go cage diving whilst we were here and wow, what an experience it was! Sat on top of the boat having our safety briefing whilst two giant Great Whites swam around us was an incredible feeling, you don't appreciate just how big they are until you see them in person. Once we had donned our wetsuits (the water here is cold even in the summer months), the anticipation was building, until finally it was our turn to climb down into the cage suspended alongside the boat. Having wanted to experience this for over 10 years, I was not disappointed! It was amazing to be so close to such awesome apex predators. The rest of our trip was a lot more sedate, whilst no less fantastic. We drove along the coast to Hermanus, an old fishing village that comes alive around June – November when Southern Right Whales come here to breed and calf. The whales can be spotted just off-shore and are easily viewable from the cliffs. However, if you’re feeling more adventurous you can take part in a guided kayak tour or a scenic flight. Halfway between Gansbaai and Hermanus is The Sir Robert Stanford Estate, a beautiful winery and distillery where you can enjoy a delicious meal made from home-grown produce, take a tram ride through their grounds or simply sit and watch the sun go down over the lake. I couldn’t resist bringing home a few choice bottles! Top restaurant tip for Gansbaai: The Blue Goose. Just along the coast from Gansbaai is Cape Agulhas, the geographic southern tip of Africa and the beginning of the dividing line between The Atlantic and Indian Oceans. There is a boardwalk going down to the point and you can enjoy a nice walk along the coast but be sure to pack a mac as it can get rather breezy here, even in the height of summer. On your way to/from Cape Agulhas there is another lovely winery to stop at along the way - The Black Oystercatcher - lunch here is superb and not to be missed. We spent some time in Cape Town during our trip, and what a fabulous place “The Mother City” is; full of culture and with a great food & drink scene, I think I could have easily spent a week here! We enjoyed a leisurely stroll around the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, where there is a large variety of restaurants to chose from, many serving delicious freshly-caught seafood. A visit to Cape Town would not be the same without taking the cable car up to the top of Table Mountain. Make sure you book your tickets in advance, as the queue can be incredibly long, and rather unbearable under the African sun. Aim to be there relatively early in the morning as the mountain can get shrouded in fog, this way you have a better chance of seeing the stunning views out across the city and over to Robben Island. The red hop on hop off bus is an inexpensive and convenient way to see the city; explore different neighbourhoods and listen to the interesting commentary from the guide (it includes a stop at Table Mountain). The drive through Stellenbosch, to visit family in Wellington, is particularly beautiful as this region is renowned for its beautiful Cape Dutch homesteads, picturesque scenery and wineries. Wellington is surrounded by fruit orchards, wine estates, buchu plantations and olive groves. In addition, its vine-cutting nurseries produce approximately 85% of the country’s vine root stock for the wine industry. Continuing our journey, we headed towards the coast, north of Cape Town, and spent several days exploring the wonderful beaches in the area. Two favourites were Melkbosstrand and Blouberg Sands, the white sand beaches and stunning views across to Table Mountain were breath-taking. Despite being the Christmas period, and height of tourist season, the beaches were very quiet as this area is off the main tourist route. All the better for us! That rounds off another fabulous trip to South Africa! Stay posted for more blogs on my travels to this amazing country, as I have decided for ease to break them into geographical areas.

20 March 2018

Wow! What a cool destination for a long weekend away with my sister. From the minute I landed, it was apparent the people of Toronto were a really friendly, laid back bunch. Toronto has quite a few local breweries and we decided to try the Amsterdam Brewhouse on the Harbourfront for dinner the first night. We were not disappointed! A buzzing atmosphere coupled with good quality comfort food and local beers made for the perfect first evening. You can try a selection of the beers brewed onsite or even ask their advice on the perfect beer to pair with your meal. We spent the next day exploring the sights of downtown Toronto, we had booked an apartment in central downtown - an ideal location for exploring the city. The CN Tower was amazing to see up close, looming above us everywhere we turned. There are a few historical buildings dotted around and they have mostly been sympathetically restored. St Lawrence market – originally built in 1850 - was great to explore, all the vibrant fresh fruits and veg, huge selections of meats and cheeses and fresh meat and seafood was a real delight for all the senses! Stumbling across The Craft Beer Market meant our walking tour didn’t go quite to plan! Instead, we spent our afternoon sampling more local craft beers, indulging in some fabulous food and soaking in the buzzing atmosphere. It seems many of Toronto’s downtown workers take an extended lunch break on a Friday – the place was packed! A visit to Toronto wouldn’t be complete without a dining experience at the top of the iconic CN Tower, and so it was that we headed up in the lift to the 360 Restaurant - 114 stories above the city! Now, not having a head for heights, I wasn’t sure how I would find this experience and I must confess that I kept my eyes closed whilst we went up in the glass walled lift! The restaurant itself has the most amazing views out across the city and Lake Ontario plus the food was the best we had sampled so far. I opted for the local smoked salmon to start, which was to die for, it simply melted in my mouth. Next followed the Fisherman’s Catch – a seafood and tomato broth with Rockfish, Manilla clams, Humboldt squid and Salish Sea mussels served with potatoes, absolutely divine! For me, one of the most exciting parts of travelling is sampling the local produce. We knew we couldn’t visit Toronto without seeing Niagara Falls, and being only an hour and a half away from downtown you can absolutely visit for just the day, we decided to hire a car - although there are many bus tours running daily. As we visited in March, there was still snow on the ground at the falls, and although there were beautiful blue skies it was bitterly cold. Perhaps that’s why we were one of the few people there that day! As soon as you approach the falls, the sheer power of over a million gallons of water per second flowing over the edge is simply breath taking, the roar of the water is deafening, and it really is a beautiful sight. Walking along the edge of the falls, trying to capture every moment and really soak in the majesty of it all, we spent several hours here. Journey behind the falls takes you down 38m and along 130-year-old tunnels cut into the bedrock, with viewing portals cut out so you can see the water tumbling past. In summer time, you can also take a trip on the Hornblower boat and do the White-Water Walk, a scenic stroll alongside the rapids. We had pre-booked lunch at the top of the Skylon Tower, and whilst I wasn’t overly keen on taking another glass windowed lift, the views were definitely worth it! Wow is the only word that describes the view of Niagara Falls from up here, seeing how high the spray reaches is quite amazing. Whilst lunch was not of the same standard as the previous night at the CN Tower, I would recommend going just for the view! Next on our itinerary was a helicopter flight above the falls, Niagara Helicopters are located just a 10-minute drive from the falls and we were very lucky that when we arrived there was nobody else there, so a private tour it was! Now, if I thought the views from the Skylon Tower were incredible, then this was something else. It literally renders one speechless. To see the falls from this angle with the spray shooting into the air was incredible, you could just feel their power. It was a definite must-do and I can’t recommend it highly enough. Year round, at dusk, the falls are illuminated first in white lights and then in blues and reds. We decided to stay around for the illumination before heading back to Toronto, so we went off for some retail therapy mid-afternoon! It’s worth noting that there are many hotels at Niagara Falls, including some with rooms that overlook the falls. Another alternative, would be to stay in the beautiful old town of Niagara-on-the-lake, just a 20-minute drive away, and steeped in old world charm. On our last full day in Ontario we decided to drive out to Toronto Zoo particularly to see the pandas on loan from China, before their move to Calgary Zoo the following week. They were amazing to see, just like over-sized teddy bears! Apart from this, the zoo wasn’t really to our liking, and although I’m sure many would enjoy it, we decided to cut our losses and head out in search of more natural beauty. We came across Scarborough Bluffs a short drive away. At its highest point, the escarpment rises 90m above Lake Ontario and offers stunning coastal walks. We spent a few hours strolling along the coast, taking in the views and watching the resident swans, ducks and Canadian geese. To finish off our jam-packed weekend away we had tickets to the basketball match at the Air Canada Centre, the Toronto Raptors v Charlotte Hornets. The atmosphere was great, and very laid back and friendly, with lots of families in attendance. Whilst I have absolutely zero knowledge of basketball, it was fantastic to be there and experience it. To top off the weekend, I treated myself to Business Class on the way back to London. Flying British Airways, you have access to the Business Class section of the premium lounge at Toronto Pearson International, offering free drinks, including spirits and champagne along with a variety of snacks. As expected, the food on the flight was of an excellent quality, particularly the steak. Needless to say, I slept like a baby on my flat bed and landed in London refreshed and ready to head straight to my daughters Spring Concert!