Trogir, Croatia- part 1
There’s plenty to see and do in both the old town and the vicinity. The town has several nicknames: The Town Museum, The Stone Beauty and Little Venice of Dalmatia. Trogir has a very high concentration of palaces, churches, towers and a fortress and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With influences from the ancient Greeks, the Romans, and Venetians who’ve all lived here, it’s impossible not to fall in love with this picture postcard town. The old walled part of the town is on a small island sandwiched between the mainland and a larger island called Ciovo. The town is connected to the mainland by a small bridge (Mali Most) and to Ciovo Island by a big bridge (Veliki Most). Like so many coastal towns in Croatia, it’s completely enclosed by imposing stone walls, built to repel unwanted visitors. There are two main entrances to the walled old town - the imposing, elaborate and ornate north and south gates. The South town Gate is decorated with renaissance ornaments and the original preserved wooden doors. Look above as you enter the North Gate - on the top of the gate is the patron of the Town - St. John, guarding its citizens.
The town’s completely pedestrianised streets are narrow alleyways which form an intricate maze. The network of passages leads onto stunning piazzas, bougainvillea filled courtyards and open-air restaurants. It’s very easy to get lost, although this is part of the fun; it’s not a huge town, so you can briskly walk the circumference in half an hour or while away hours meandering though the centre on polished cobbled stones worn slippery smooth by centuries of footfall. Even though Trogir has become increasingly popular with visitors, the town still has an incredible old-world charm. Although many locals give up their prime old town apartments during the summer (to lucratively rent out) the town still has such a local feel with washing hanging across the street, locals playing Bocce (like boules) in the park and kids playing football in the shadow of 15th century Kamerlengo Fortress. The perfect mix of old and new.
Foodies will love the array of restaurants here. The best of Mediterranean cuisine is on offer from fresh seafood to pizzas, pasta, risottos, fresh salads and hearty meat dishes local to the region. Gelato shops are abundant with a dizzying selection of flavours. Iced coffees are sipped under umbrellas in the piazza and chic bars line the waterfront, allowing you to watch yachts come and go. The region produces excellent wine, and cherry brandy is also a popular local tipple. Bakeries serve up fresh crusty bread and my favourite- cherry strudel fresh from the oven.
Trogir’s ‘Riva’ (waterfront) area showcases local artists and musicians in the summer months. It’s a popular stop off for yachts and in peak season the boats jostle for spaces on the quayside and floating gin palaces line the port alongside more traditional wooden ‘old-timers’ with sails which have been converted from freight boats to allow passengers to sleep on board. The town’s links with the sea are evident everywhere, and you’re never far from the glittering blue waters that surround the island. For excellent swimming and snorkelling you don’t have to walk far in any direction away from the town to find a spot to take a dip, but for the clearest waters and azure sea head to the south of Ciovo Island, where trendy beach bars overlook the bluest waters. Relax in opulent cabanas or Bali beach beds while sipping a cocktail and snacking on seafood, it’s a genuine slice of heaven on earth.
Walking through Trogir, you’ll be bombarded with buildings that boast fascinating histories. There’s the three knave Venetian St Lawrence's Cathedral; Karmalengo Fortress that houses atmospheric outdoor concerts during the Trogir Summer festival; the Small Loggia packed full of local art and jewellery; St Nicholas's Benedictine Convent; Marmont's Gloriette, an elegant gazebo by the sea; The splendid Grand Cipiko Palace with intricately carved Gothic gallery; 15th century Town Hall and St Sebastian's Church… to name just a few! Pay a visit to the museum, which is housed in a former palace, with artefacts from Trogir’s long and rich history.
The neighbouring island of Ciovo boasts a long beach, Okrug Gornji, which is packed with places to eat and very popular with families. There’s a wide array of villas and apartments here, perfect for a self-catering holiday. The island’s coastline is lined with pine trees and alive with the hum of cicadas (tree crickets). You can easily catch a water taxi from Trogir’s Riva to the beach, which takes around 20 mins. If you like being out on the water, then a three-island boat trip will take you to the nearby Drvenik Islands, where you can snorkel and swim in the magnificent Blue Lagoon. Then, visit Šolta Island to admire the local village's charming architecture and idyllic stone cottages, before stopping off on the south of Ciovo Island for a BBQ lunch and more swimming in the crystal-clear sea. You can also take the interisland ferry from Trogir to the Drvenik Islands and step back in time. The islands are untouched by the modern world-no traffic, very few tourists, just peace, calm and the traditional Dalmatian way of life. The smaller island, Drevnik Mali, only has around 50 inhabitants. Walk from one side of the island to the other across the interior and admire the olive groves, stone walls and glimpses of the sparkling blue Adriatic at every turn.
To be continued.... Part 2 on my next blog!