Awesome Albania

Tirana

It was my first time in Albania. It’s often described as an up-and-coming destination as it’s only in recent years that it’s been ‘open’ to visitors. Certainly the capital was awash with cranes and big constructions projects. It felt like there was a lot of investment and they were keen to welcome visitors.

Tirana was a fabulous mix of old and new – some amazing new skyscrapers with very unusual architecture, some socialist / brutalist blocks and then older buildings such as the beautiful Et’hem Bey Mosque in Skanderbeg Square. It’s also very green with lots of trees and parks. It was easy to get around and we felt safe.

On our first morning we joined a walking tour which was a great introduction to the country and the capital as it covered a potted history of Albania as well as some of the main sights. We did tons in Tirana including visiting both Bunk’Art1 and Bunk’Art2, the House of Leaves, the Pyramid of Tirana and we took the Dajti Ekspres cable car to enjoy amazing views of the city.

Shkoder

Once we joined the group we travelled north to Shkoder. Rozafa Castle sits high above the city and you get fabulous views over the countryside and across to Shkoder Lake – by coincidence I visited the other side of this lake (Lake Skadar), when I was in Montenegro last year! The city had a laid back, relaxed vibe with plenty of people sat outside cafes and bars enjoying the sunshine.

The Albanian Alps

We then travelled up into the Albanian Alps and stayed in Theth for two nights. The village is often ‘cut off’ from civilisation in the winter due to snow and it feels very remote. It was a lovely place to slow down and appreciate rural, Albanian life. Theth is popular with walkers as it’s the starting point for many of the national park’s best walks and trials. We hiked to the Grunas waterfall and then onto The Blue Eye – a natural spring famous for its striking turquoise colour.

The highlight of any trip here is the Theth – Valbona Pass trek – a 17km mountain trail connecting the two most beautiful valleys in northern Albania. We trekked up to almost 1,800 metres enjoying breathtaking views. It was quite tough walking at times and most of us found it harder going down due to the all the loose stones and scree, however it was worth it for the sense of achievement and for the stunning vistas from every turn.

From Valbona we hiked the White Circle walk – a varied trail up the mountainside, through some lovely, wooded areas (which offered some respite from the sun and heat). It was a very steep ascent at the beginning and the village of Valbona very quickly looked tiny.

Komani Lake & Kruja

After leaving the Albanian Alps we headed south and took the daily ferry on Komani Lake on the way to Kruja. The lake is actually an artificial lake (reservoir) created when a hydroelectric power plant was built on the Drin River in the 1980s. The views of the mountains and fjords were gorgeous and I especially loved all the reflections.

Kruja is one of the top sightseeing locations in Albania being home to Skanderbeg, the national hero. The town was central to his rebellion against the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century. Kruja Castle is perched on a hilltop and has a stunning panoramic view. The Old Bazaar is a lovely part of the town and I enjoyed mooching along the cobbled street, perusing the wooden shops and soaking up the medieval atmosphere. There are lots of authentic Albanian souvenirs, from wool carpets and copper crafts to handwoven scarfs and artisanal products to choose from.

Berat

Our trip ended in Berat, known as the City of a Thousand Windows, famous for its striking Ottoman-era houses dotted up the hillside towards the castle. Again, there were fantastic views from Berat Castle. I really enjoyed wandering around the streets of Mangalem neighbourhood – it’s very easy to get lost and coming across dead ends but that’s all part of exploring. From Berat we travelled back to Tirana airport to fly home.  

Food & Drink

I enjoyed lots of delicious food as well as locally produced wine and a few local beers such Korca beer and Tirana beer. Two of my favourite meals were at agrotourism places in the countryside where they either produced all the ingredients themselves or sourced them from the local area. There was no menu per se – you were served what was in season which was very fresh and tasty. It was also very affordable for us Brits.

Summary

Overall, I loved my time in Albania. The towns and cities were great to mooch around and explore the fascinating history and culture. The countryside and landscapes are absolutely stunning. I would highly recommend venturing north into the Albanian Alps. The locals we met were friendly and helpful. The food and drink was lovely. Plus the weather was hot and sunny. What more could you ask for?