Picture Perfect Peru

Karen Moore on 17 September 2023
Peru had long been on my bucket list and I was determined to make it happen given the last few years and, as I celebrated a big birthday this year, it seemed a great opportunity to make it happen.

I booked a group trip with Journey Latin America (JLA). I have previously travelled with them to Cuba, Mexico and Brazil and they are experts in this region with a brilliant range of group and private trips. My flights were with Air France from Manchester via Paris to Lima.

I arrived in Lima a day early to have time to get over jet lag and explore the capital. I stayed in Miraflores, a buzzing area of the city with lots of hotels, cafes, bars and restaurants, and right on the Pacific Coast. I loved my visit to Museo Larco – housed in a gorgeous 18th century viceroy’s mansion with lovely gardens, it holds the largest and most important archaeological collection of Ancient Peru in the world. The ceramics in particular were beautiful and so different to anything I had seen before. I also went on a walking tour of the historic centre of Lima, dominated by Plaza de Armas.

I then flew to Arequipa (The White City) and was already at altitude. You must take it easy and allow your body time to adapt to the thin air. Altitude sickness is random and can affect anyone, regardless of fitness or age. Arequipa was lovely – almost entirely built from white sillar (volcanic) stone and surrounded by three volcanoes. The Plaza de Armas is dominated by the Basilica Catedral de Arequipa – the widest cathedral in Peru, stretching the entire length of the plaza. I also enjoyed a guided tour of Monasterio Santa Catalina – covering a whole block it was like a city within a city.

My journey from Arequipa across the Altiplano to the Colca Canyon was one of vast, empty, bleak (but beautiful) landscapes. At times it looked completely empty, however on closer inspection you usually spotted some alpacas, vicunas and llamas! I enjoyed my first glass of coca tea to help with the effects of the high altitude. In the Colca Canyon I stayed at a gorgeous lodge, with natural hot springs. Up early to get to Cruz del Condor, we sat quietly and waited to spot the condors to glide effortlessly on the thermal air currents. We then hiked along the ridge taking in the amazing views of the canyon. It’s the second deepest in the world and twice as deep as the (more famous) Grand Canyon in the US.

My next stop was Puno on the banks of Lake Titicaca, high in the Andes mountains on the Peru / Bolivia border. It’s the highest navigable lake in the world and the largest lake in South America. I visited the Uros islands to visit a family and learn more about their traditional way of life. The ‘floating islands’ are small, man-made islands constructed from layers of totora, a reed that grows in the shallows of the lake. It was fascinating to learn about their day-to-day life.

The following day involved a 10-hour train journey Puno to Cuzco on board the Andean Express. The scenery was stunning. We enjoyed entertainment throughout the journey including live, traditional, Peruvian music, a fashion show, a pisco sour demonstration. And not forgetting a 3-course lunch followed later by afternoon tea. I also spent a lot of the time at the back of the train in the observation car to make the most of the fantastic views.

The wonderful, historic and evocative city of Cusco was my next destination. Gateway to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley (and a lot more), Cusco represented the geographical and spiritual centre of the Inca empire. In Quechua, cusco means ‘navel’ since it was considered to be the ‘navel of the world’. I loved exploring the city and surrounding area – the beautiful, Spanish influence of the Plaza de Armas, local life in Mercado Central de San Pedro, the arty, more bohemian area of San Blas, mixed in with historic, Inca sights such as Qorikancha Templo Del Sol and Saqsaywaman.

The final part of my trip was spent in the Sacred Valley with its breathtaking scenery. I visited Pisac Ruins, located high above the village of Pisac, with its agricultural terraces carved into the mountain sides. It’s very impressive and you can’t help but wonder how they built it all. I also visited the Ollantaytambo Ruins – a fortress and temple dominating the village.

From Ollantaytambo we took the train, watching as the landscape changed and we travelled through the rainforest to Aguas Calientes. From here it was a (rather hairy at times) bus journey up to the ‘entrance’ of Machu Picchu. I don’t think you can fully prepare yourself for seeing this stunning Inca citadel in real life. Our guide, Berner, took us all around the site explaining about all the different areas of the city. The weather changes constantly so sit and watch the mist and clouds come rolling in and then disperse as the sun comes out. I stayed in Inkaterra, Andean–style cottages set amid tropical gardens. They offer free walking tour of the hotel grounds exploring the plants (especially orchids), birds and tea plantation which are all brilliant.

In summary I had the most amazing time! The landscapes and scenery are stunning and very varied. The people I met, including my Peruvian guide, Berner, and my fellow group travellers, Diana, Martin & Joyce, were fabulous and I loved spending time with them and sharing experiences. The weather was great and I stayed in some amazing hotels. I enjoyed lots of delicious local food and drink and learnt so much about the history and culture of this part of the world. I wouldn’t describe it as a relaxing holiday at all – there were some very early starts, long (and often uncomfortably) journeys, high altitude and a long flight to get there, so it’s definitely not for everyone.

For me it reminded me of my passion for travel and visiting different countries. I strongly recommend you add Peru to your travel wish list if it’s not already on it!