The Cretan Odyssey continues...

After a few days of essentially walking and eating, we headed out to explore a little more of this part of the island. Arkadi Monastery is a poignant reminder of the resistance of the local population to invasion by the Ottomans. As the battle was lost, the women and children who sheltered here chose to ignite the gunpowder store rather than join the Turkish harems – the storeroom has been left unrestored as a final testament to their sacrifice.

As we found with most of Crete, the drive from Rethymnon to the monastery could be tackled in different ways, so we took a scenic route back through the mountains, stopping in a tiny village called Thronos, to eat at Aravanes Taverna, a restaurant with a beautiful view. The whole village seemed to be made up of enterprising locals inviting you to see how they make raki or olive oil, taking you for treks or getting your help with the grape harvest.

Further south, we came across the seaside resort of Paleochora. The novelty here is the fact that there are two beaches on either side of a small promontory – one sand and one pebble. We were staying on the sandy side and enjoyed walking into town via the beach of an evening. The central spine of Paleochora comes to life at night, with all the restaurants spilling out into the street, creating a festive atmosphere to enjoy plenty of fresh dishes. I was particularly excited to find a vegetarian restaurant, the Third Eye, with a daily menu – heaven for me!

Not too far along from Paleochora you’ll find the Samaria Gorge, one of the longest and deepest in Europe. You can take an organised trip or do it yourself and get the bus to the start and then collect the ferry back from the end at Agia Roumeli. Or, you could do what we did and decide it was too hot so we chose one of the other big attractions in the area, Elafonisi beach. This is a real stunner – a South Pacific, pink-sand lagoon. If only no one else knew about it, then it would be paradise! A little advice – take a picnic and a parasol, head out early, walk as far as you can be bothered, then a bit further. It is really worth the effort. One more thing; don’t whatever you do, take the ‘shortest route’. It will be unpaved road and truly terrifying! Even if it looks like you are going miles out of your way, the ‘fastest route’ does at least involve tarmac. You’re welcome.