If you love Italy, you'll adore Sicily
And so it was, that my sisters and I, whilst in our early teens, were fortunate enough to spend many summers with my great aunt, in her villa, at the top of the hill in Sperone, overlooking the town, the port, and the Straits of Messina.
Evenings were often spent on the patio, eating focaccia, (the Messinese version doesn’t have mozzarella, just endive, anchovies, olives and a tomato base), while my parents and aunt drank iced red wine (which was delivered by tanker!), and talked. I remember my mother often reverting to the local dialect; a language we would hear regularly on the streets whenever we ventured into the centre.
After the evening meal, my sisters and I would play with the local kids.
The memory of those warm, balmy evenings remains with me to this day: The lights of Reggio Calabria, twinkling across the sea. The fishing boats, with a light at the back to attract the fish, making their way out of the port – hoping to catch some Pesce Sparda (swordfish), which would be sold on the dockside, in the morning. And the sweet smell of jasmine coming in wafts on any slight breeze.
For over 2,500 years, Sicily has been at a strategic crossroads of the western world. It has left Sicily with an unparalleled historical legacy. Nowhere else have Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, French, Germans, Spanish, Italians and even the British left such an indelible impression.
Despite this, or perhaps because of it, the Sicilians, have always been fiercely independent. Rome is just 263 miles from Palermo by air - but in many ways, it might as well be on the other side of the planet.
The island’s flag is of the three-legged man. Sicilians will tell you that, it demonstrates that no matter how roughly thrown, a Sicilian will always land on his feet.
But whether it’s Greek temples, Roman villas, Norman cathedrals or Baroque churches, fresh seafood, beautiful beaches or the warm welcome from the natives, Sicily offers a range of attractions and historical sites that are not easily matched. TAORMINA What do Goethe, D.H. Lawrence, Richard Wagner, Oscar Wilde, Truman Capote, John Steinbeck, Ingmar Bergmann, Francis Ford Coppola, Cary Grant, Gregory Peck, Elisabeth Taylor and Woody Allen have in common? They all took time to stay in Taormina, the pearl of the Mediterranean.
Perched on a rocky peak, above the sea, it is the most popular tourist destination in Sicily. An integral part of the ‘Grand Tour’, visitors flock here from all over the world to see its Greek-Roman theatre, amble along its perfectly preserved mediaeval streets, admire dramatic views of Mount Etna and enjoy its archetypal Mediterranean atmosphere.
Restored mediaeval buildings, breathtaking views and a network of winding, almost labyrinthine streets, make Taormina a 'must' for anyone visiting the island.
MOUNT ETNA One of the world's most active volcanoes. Guided day trips, either privately or on a shared, small-group experience take you up the volcano. It’s a chance to explore Etna’s lava caves and sample local delicacies. If nothing else, a view from the summit is awe-inspiring. If it is erupting, then the sight of red hot lava spewing high into the night air can be seen for miles. A pyrotechnic reminder of nature’s raw power.
GOLE ALCANTARA Deep in the foothills of Mount Etna, the Gole dell ’Alcantara Gorge is one of Sicily’s hidden gems. A unique landscape, carved out by the Alcantara river. It’s a great alternative to the beach – a hot spot for adventure seekers.
Untouched by mass tourism, it is an easy day trip from Taormina. The water is a flowing freshwater river and therefore much colder than the sea. While you can simply paddle or sit in the shallows, some parts of the river get quite deep and very cold, even in the heat of August. SYRACUSE More than any other Sicilian city, Syracuse encapsulates Sicily's timeless beauty. Ancient Greek ruins rise out of lush citrus orchards, cafe tables spill onto dazzling baroque piazzas, and honey-hued medieval side streets lead down to a sparkling blue sea.
Once the largest city in the ancient world, even bigger than Athens and Corinth, the Corinthians landed on the island of Ortygia (Ortigia) in 734 BC founding the settlement and set up the mainland city 4 years later.
Three millennia later, the ruins became the Parco Archeologico della Neapolis, one of Sicily's greatest archaeological sites.
Ortygia remains Syracuse's most beautiful corner; an atmospheric quarter, with beautiful streetscapes and attractive dining and shopping options. AGRIGENTO Once the ancient city of Akragas, the Valley of the Temples is a vast archaeological site with well-preserved Greek temples. Founded in the 6th century B.C., Agrigento became one of the leading cities in the ancient world. The Valley of the Temples is yet another UNESCO site, on an island that has more than its fair share.. Want a break? Head to the white sandy beaches of the Pelagic Islands - reached by boat from Porto Empedocle. PALERMO Prehistoric settlements in the area, date back to 8000BC - the first significant civilisation being the Phoenicians. Greeks, Romans, and Byzantines all laid claim to the city. But the Arabs had the biggest impact, making it the capital of a Sicilian Emirate, rivalling Cairo in its cultural importance.
Catacombe dei Cappuccini is home to over 8,000 bodies. The underground tunnels were created when monks ran out of room in their cemeteries. The last mummy to be added was in 1920, but some are up to 400 years old. If you need a break from all the history then spend a day at the beach at Mondello bay – just a short drive from Palermo
I have really only scraped the surface: Cefalu, Trapani, Marsala, and the Aeolian Islands of Stromboli and Vulcano, have been visited, but my time is short... Next time.