Step back in time to discover enchanting Puglia

Marco Williams on 06 June 2018
Puglia, renowned for its "Trulli" as well as its great wines and food is a true gem of a region.

Undoubtedly, the land of the sun and sea. It is the “heel” of the Italian boot that looks out over the Mediterranean Sea, meeting the Adriatic Sea on the east side and the Ionian Sea on the west side.

Now one of the most famous of Italian regions, it has everything an Italophile craves in abundance: Ancient towns heavy with the tangible past:

• Extravagant churches dreamt up by Europe's finest architects • The endless footprints of a procession of conquerors and cultures, stamped in stone, gold and marble; • Seas of olives • Azure seas • And some of the best food and wine in Italy. But the region is best known for its "Trulli". These small, stone cottages have been around for hundreds of years - the oldest surviving ones date back only to the 16th century.

They were probably built earlier as temporary dry-stone accommodations that could be dismantled whenever necessary. This was usually when the property tax collectors came to town. Imagine their surprise when they arrived at Locorotondo, Alberobello or Fasano to find mounds of rubble and virtually no houses! As soon as the inspectors went away, the “Trulli” would spring up again and the locals would move back in. A typical trullo has a cylindrical base with a conical limestone-tiled roof, and though built without cement, their thick white-painted stone walls ensured coolness in the summer and warmth in the winter. The roof was often painted with an evil eye, a cross or an astronomical symbol and topped by an ornamental flourish. Thanks to their unique characteristics and historical significance, they constitute one of Puglia’s two UNESCO World Heritage Sites and are worth visiting. Many have been converted into excellent holiday homes or hotels with pools. Anyone bored and worn down by the crowds of Florence, Rome, Venice and Milan can find stillness and beauty in the baroque splendour of Lecce, ‘Florence of the South’, or one of many lesser (but no less beautiful) Pugliese towns. It is the city of Baroque. Famous for its monuments and buildings, it is considered one of the most beautiful cities in Italy, despite being relatively small. The city centre is very well preserved, and every corner has something special to offer. You could spend the whole day just walking around and admiring the beauty of this town.

While walking from one church to the other, you will find yourself crossing Piazza S. Oronzo, the most important central square in Lecce. Here you will find one of the most important archaeological sites in the region: the Roman Theater. This incredibly well-preserved theatre was accidentally discovered in 1929, as construction work was being carried out in the gardens of two nearby historic buildings (Palazzo D'Arpe and Palazzo Romano)

With its 800 kms of coastline, Puglia is the region with the largest coastal development, after Sardinia and Sicily. And like all of Italy, is justly proud of its culinary heritage. The bounty of fresh, locally-caught seafood is, without a doubt, one of the great attractions of the region, for those that love their seafood. Pugliese cuisine features a wide selection of fish and seafood dishes with local species like swordfish (pesce spada), sea bass (spigola and branzino), mullet (triglia), and bream (orata). But it’s the frutas di mare like sea urchins, octopus, cuttlefish, anchovies, mussels, scallops, razor clams, oysters, and squid that are most often enjoyed. In Bari, you’ll find these served raw in what’s known as “il crudo Barese”. One interesting exception to the fresh seafood is Tarantello di Tonno, a unique and traditional food that’s been produced in Taranto, since around the 16th century. Fresh tuna is sliced thin and laid to dry in the sun, then the layers are preserved in olive oil to be used later in a variety of dishes. Like France, wine is considered the usual accompaniment for any meal except breakfast. And the Italians are not precious about their wines. Yes, the good ones are treated with the respect they deserve, but with summer temperatures in the south, at over 30°C, it's not unusual for Italians and the Puglianese, to add cold water or ice to their red wines. If Italy is the largest producer of wine in the world, it is largely thanks to Puglia, which produces more than any other Italian region, about 17% of the total! But gorgeous food, delicious wines and “Trulli” are not the only attractions

From the breathtaking cliffs below the tiny old town of Polignano a Mare, it’s possible to take a boat trip to visit caves accessible only from the sea. Stop to swim at Cala Monachile, a wonderful beach, nestled between two high rocky walls in the heart of the town. In the area of Fasano, swimming at sunset along the walls of the ancient Roman city of Egnazia is a unique experience not to be missed. If you head towards the province of Brindisi, you will come across the coastal village of Torre Canne which has natural hot springs, before arriving at the Natural Reserve of Torre Guaceto, a bird-watching paradise with its excellent crystal clear waters. No less enchanting are the beaches along the Ionian coast and the provinces of Bari and Brindisi. From the white beaches of Marina di Ginosa to the salt mine and dunes of Torre Colimena, there are so many beautiful places to explore. Make sure to stop when passing through Marina di Pulsano and Torre Ovo, where transparent waters provide idyllic swimming conditions.

If you need help to organise your Puglia adventure, just drop me an email or give me a call.