South Island, New Zealand - Unmissable!
So what’s the attraction? Firstly, the people. So friendly, so welcoming, and such a relaxed, laid-back attitude to life. Away from the major cities, the pace of life is pretty chilled, people really do have time for you, and love to showcase their country. Of course, it helps if you love rugby – it is, after all, their religion.
And the country itself? I spent 3 months driving around South Island in a clapped out old VW Campervan – it really didn’t like going uphill, I was overtaken by the odd bicycle, but I still managed to traverse the Southern Alps a couple of times. The scenery is spectacular, rugged snow-capped mountains, beautiful crystal-clear (and extremely cold) lakes, and endless beaches (complete with visiting whales, if you time it right).
While most people visit during their summer, I was there late Autumn. Chilly at night, but largely clear days, and the walking trails I pretty much had to myself. There was still plenty going on in the towns, nightlife was lively at times, but (like the country) everything was generally pretty low-key.
Christchurch is a lovely city, small enough to walk the highlights. However, New Zealand sits on the Ring of Fire that circles most of the Pacific, and the centre was devastated by an earthquake in 2011. Rebuilding work is on-going, but like any area devastated by natural disaster, they appreciate the tourists… Heading inland, the Southern Alps form the backbone of the island, rising from gentle foothills to spectacular jagged mountain peaks. The Kiwis love their outdoors fun, so there are well-marked trails everywhere.
Driving past Mt Cook, I was heading for Queenstown. This is party central for the South Island. Set on beautiful Lake Wakatipu, there are lots to do. From high-adrenaline activities like the original bungee jump from Kawarau Gorge Bridge, extreme jet-boating or white water rafting on the Shotover River, to more sedate days out visiting beautiful Milford Sound, I guarantee you won’t be bored!
However, Queenstown can be a bit full-on, so when you’ve had enough, head an hour up the road to stunning Wanaka. So much more peaceful, but set on an even more beautiful lake, I loved it here. The sun sets behind mountains across the lake, and it’s a lovely place to chill out and relax, probably with a cold beer, and contemplate life…
But, we must (eventually) move on. Having crossed the Alps (slow going up, crazy coming down, the brakes weren’t great) I hit the coast and headed for Fox Glacier. There are lots of organised tours to do here, the most popular being a helicopter ride up onto the glacier, and a hike around some pretty cool caves in crampons. Lots of fun, but I was at the end of my budget, so had to satisfy myself with whatever was free! Plan your budget better than I did…
Onwards and upwards to the north end of the South Island, and the rather gorgeous Abel Tasman National Park. Beautiful beaches, easy walking trails, sea-kayaking, beautiful places to stay, it has it all… And then it was over to the Marlborough wine region, which sounds like (and is) a very good excuse for some wine-tasting days out. Clearly, I can’t remember much, but the wine was phenomenal, and now I drink nothing else! Head south, and you’ll reach Kaikoura, home of whale watching and dolphin swimming. Not to be missed! The dolphins are as friendly as the locals…
And then it was back to Christchurch, to reluctantly sell the camper-van. I got back half what I paid for it, and had a few maintenance issues along the way – in retrospect, hiring is the way to go.
In conclusion? What a country! So much to see and do, but the distances are large, so try to give it at least 3 weeks. Winters are cold, but even in late autumn I had a brilliant time, and at times it felt like I had the place to myself! I managed 3 months, and it still wasn’t enough, and I didn’t even get as far as the North Island! The people really are fantastic, the scenery is second to none, and I haven’t even mentioned LOTR.
Happy days...