Animals, adventure and absolute bliss in Borneo
It had been a long time coming – dreams of orangutans and tropical rainforests had consumed my mind as a teenager so when my friend suggested we ‘just get on with it’, I literally leapt at the chance! How to decide where on earth to explore when you have just two weeks and an absolute lust to see every square inch?
Due to an overwhelming area for which we may well need several weeks to explore plus the element of visa requirements, we eliminated Indonesia from our research, were quick to cross off Brunei and sadly were unable to stretch our time to reach the Western Malaysian province of Sarawak too as logistically it would have consumed just too many of our limited days.
So, we had finally narrowed it down to the Eastern Malaysian state of Sabah – even just this small-by-comparison area would be quite a rush!
Upon arrival in Kota Kinabalu, we had a brief overnight stop before a very early flight across to Sandakan, famed for the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre and Sun Bear Conservation Centre. After all these years, I finally set eyes on the beautiful creatures and Kings of the trees which are renowned in these dense forests; orangutans.
We moved on to take a river cruise along the typically brown Kinabatangan River which offered such incredible opportunities for animal spotting! The river snakes through Sabah’s lowlands for 560km to reach Sulu Sea. Close up with the pygmy elephants on the river bank, tracking the Silver Leaf Monkeys swinging from branch to branch as the region reveals a mosaic of riparian forest alongside Oxbow Lake and mangroves a plenty.
Making our way further south and inland, we arrive deep in the rainforest of Danum Valley and the wonderful yet sympathetically built 4* Borneo Rainforest Lodge. Armed with leech socks, we took many a guided trip and full day hike out into the (relatively) undisturbed lowland of pristine, virgin forest - one of the last strongholds of undisturbed tropical flora and fauna in the world. This area of 438 square kilometres cannot be covered in one trip, but being eager for early starts and staying out even in the most torrential of (typical rainforest) downpours, we definitely made the most of our time there. Groups of macaques eyed us calmly and majestic hornbills soared through the tree tops above as we made our way up to Coffin Cliff. Perfect views creeping into sight across the canopy and tales of indigenous people who once called this home.
From Lahad Datu we flew back to Kota Kinabalu where we prepared to conquer the island’s highest peak, Mount Kinabalu at 4,095m. Despite the steps and roped-lines which have been created to assist hikers, this adventure was certainly epic and one not to be underestimated. Whether completed in 2 days/1 night or extended to 3 days and 2 nights, arriving at the summit to witness the spectacular sunrise means leaving base camp in the middle of the night – a wholly unnatural feat whereby your entire being just wants to snuggle up and go back to sleep. We made it – and all in one piece too! Now for some well-deserved R & R...
Just a 30 minute boat trip off Kota Kinabalu, Gaya Island forms part of the Tunka Abdul Rahman National Park. This really was the perfect place to relax after such a hard slog of a hike, so spending three nights there felt simply blissful. The beachfront resort truly does blend harmoniously with the natural environment. Our beautiful villa hung delightfully over the translucent ocean with which we dangled our feet and cooled off after a hard day lying on our veranda.
Kayaking, snorkelling and relaxing were the order of each day followed by a severe overindulgence in each of the top-class restaurants in the resort, until our mountain-fit bodies were all but a distant memory. What a wonderful way to end an utterly diverse, adventurous and incredible holiday.
TOP TIP:
Try to resist temptation to fit too much into your trip! If you can extend to three weeks then perfect, otherwise I would seriously recommend researching which region might tick the most boxes for you and concentrate on that area; whether it be Malaysia, Brunei or Indonesia then Sabah or Sarawak, this rugged and wild island will certainly not disappoint.