Marrakech and Essaouira
The Moroccan Tourist Board hosted this trip (thank you!) for Travel Counsellors and treated us to a packed itinerary with three nights and days in Marrakech, and a final night at the coast in Essaouira.
It’s a short 15-20 minute drive from Marrakech airport to the Medina so we found ourselves heading into the dusty maze of the souks within just a few of hours of our arrival. Allow yourself plenty of time to enjoy getting lost within the labyrinth that is the Medina – expect souks filled with a colourful mix of leather, glassware, spices, carpets, silks, lanterns - and keep a wary eye for locals whizzing past on bikes! Emerge for air and you’ll likely find yourself at El Djemaa el-Fna, a vast square home to entertainment in the form of snake charmers, acrobats, dancers and more, surrounded by restaurants and roof top cafes – the perfect spot for watching the sunset with a soothing mint tea, as it turns out.
After enjoying the views from one such terrace, we were led to nearby Salama, a contemporary restaurant spread over three floors, offering classic local food with a modern twist plus plenty of entertainment along the way. Fez hats greeted us at each table and the plentiful meze and freshly baked breads turned out to be just the start of a delicious feast, the highlight of which was the lamb – slow cooked and melt in the mouth – truly delicious! With dancers to entertain us when our bellies were too full for more food, it was a great evening and one I would recommend for a taster of all things Morocco.
Day 2 took us just outside the city to the very lovely Beachcomber Royal Palm – a tranquil golf and spa resort around 20 minutes’ drive from the Medina. Along with golf enthusiasts, this would make a great base for families or those on a longer trip not wanting to be in the thick of the Medina for the duration. Set over vast grounds, with views across the 18-hole golf course to the snow-capped Atlas Mountains, this luxury resort has a relaxed, contemporary feel without losing the sense of where you are.
Returning to the Medina we next visited the opulent Royal Mansour hotel. Full of Moroccan character with sumptuous, luxurious touches, it’s a unique property. It’s hard to believe you’re on the edge of the Medina as it feels so peaceful. A stay here is not to everyone’s budget but it’s possible to visit as a day guest at the pool if you need a break from the sightseeing and shopping, or to celebrate a special occasion consider a meal here – our lunch was the best meal of the trip.
Taking a break from the hotel visits, we next put our cookery skills to the test at La Maison Arabe’s cookery school. Starting with a demo on how to make the perfect mint cuppa (and it’s more complicated than you could imagine!) and followed by a swift lesson in tagine cookery, it was a great introduction and the tagine was top notch.
Day 3 gave us a chance to escape the city and head for the hills, with a visit to the stunning L’Amandier Hotel in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. The design of the private villas here is in keeping with the red Berber style of the surrounding countryside, and the setting is hard to beat. Perfect for a two centre with Marrakech, L’Amandier is just an hour’s drive from the city. It’s a perfect base for countryside walking, cycling or simply relaxing and enjoying the fresh air and spectacular views.
Our final day took us two hours west, via the obligatory argon oil cooperative stop, to Essaouira (say essa-weera, or es-sweera in Arabic), the “Wind City of Africa”. The pace of life here is much slower, and within minutes of arrival I felt instantly more relaxed.
The wind and waves of this stretch of coast make it a popular spot for wind and kite-surfers, and the wind means that the beach is unlikely to be filled with sun-worshippers, but the hotels have well thought out designs with strategically placed walls and wind breaks, so it’s not impossible to laze near a pool if you’re in need of R&R. Otherwise be content to wander the spice-scented lanes of the walled medina, enjoy the various art galleries and boutiques, dine out at unique and quirky restaurants, seek out colourful street art or watch fishermen at work at the nearby port. Ours was just a fleeting visit but I loved what I saw, and again I’m left feeling that I want to come back for more.
Morocco is a wonderful place – only three hours from the UK but offering a vastly different culture. While I was familiar with Marrakech as a perfect long weekend destination, with a stay in a unique riad within the medina, this trip gave me a different perspective and an appreciation of why you might choose one of the larger resort style hotels outside the city walls.
With its location in North Africa there seems to be a widespread misconception about safety in Morocco which is a great shame. In fact it takes its safety seriously, with guards and scanners at the entry to the airport and all hotels, and a great safety record. The people are as friendly as they come and I wouldn’t have any hesitation recommending this destination to anyone and everyone.
