Argentina - all in the name of research

Shara Smith on 21 October 2019
I arrived after our long flight and I was just excited to get to our hotel room and freshen up – well, once we arrived that went out the window! We stayed at The Gran Melia Iguazu in the National Park – the one and only hotel in the park! Incredible, from the outside, she’s camouflaged, designed to fit in amongst the jungle, but inside, she radiates luxury, sustainability, comfort, class, eco friendly and staff genuinely excel! As you enter you’ll catch your breath, the falls are there, in eyes view, I promise you, no other hotel in Iguazu Argentina will compare (I visited several). Another amazing perk of staying here – you’ll be able to walk upper and lower circuits from the hotel, 5 minutes and you’re there.

Iguazu Falls are made of a huge series of large and small waterfalls (the amount really depends on water levels) that you can admire from an incredible array of viewpoints. There are so many, indeed, that you can easily spend 2 to 3 days visiting Iguazu Falls, especially if you decide to view them from both the Argentine and the Brazilian sides (which I wholeheartedly recommend).

Iguazu Falls are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and were named one of the Seven Wonders of Nature in 2011. They stretch for almost three km between the Argentine province of Misiones and Brazilian state of Paraná and they are the largest waterfall system in the world.

Iguazu Falls are constantly changing, and that your experience there may change a lot depending on the year you visit, on the time of year you visit, and even on the day. Visit after some heavy rains, and some trails may be closed due to flooding, and some wooden paths even completely carried away by the water. Other times, there may be very little water. When I visited Iguazu Falls, the flow of water was nice and strong, but it hadn’t rain in a while, so I could walk all of the trails and paths to all the viewpoints. But, since there was a lot of water, I still got (pleasantly) sprayed by the mist.

I’d dare say that any time is a good time to visit Iguazu Falls. If you manage to go at the very beginning of the dry season, you should be able to see the falls at their fullest. I visited in September – weather and falls were very pleasant.

December to February is the rain season, but the other side of the coin is that you get to see the waterfalls in their full power. April to June is the dry season, and August and September are even drier and cooler. The Brazilian side is very panoramic, and you’ll get perfect close up photos of the giant waterfalls. You need to cross the border here, easily done by taxi (remember your passports). But the Argentine side of Iguazu Falls is honestly much more fun. You’re literally IN the waterfalls. Trails take you above them, below them, under them (if you do the boat ride), and you can see a lot of wildlife.

The Upper Circuit is a shorter trail of less than one km that takes about one hour to complete. It has a wooden path that takes you to the top of the falls from where you can enjoy impressive views. The Lower Circuit is a longer trail that will take you up to 3 hours, with several viewpoints. This is the trail you need to walk to catch the boat to San Martin Island and the boat that goes right under the waterfalls. Once you have walked both circuits, you can go back to the train stop to get on the next train going to the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat). Once the train stops, just take the wooden trail that leads to the waterfalls for about 1.2 km (one way). Along the way, you’ll be able to spot lots of turtles and at times even crocodiles in the water.

Make sure to factor in enough time to visit the Garganta del Diablo, as it seriously is the highlight of Iguazu Falls. Another trail you can take is the Macuco trail, which goes all the way to Arrechea Waterfall. It’s a nice nature walk that should take you around 3 hours in total and during which you can admire lots of wildlife, and which takes you to a lesser visited part of Iguazu National Park where you can even swim in a natural pool. Though the best views of Iguazu Falls are bound to be from the sky. Just a note to add to make up your own minds - Argentina has banned them a few years ago, in an attempt to reduce the level of noise which causes noise pollution and disturbs wildlife. They are still available from the Brazilian side.

I stayed here for a week exploring, more tours outside of Iguazu before it was time for me to leave for the city – Buenos Aires. After I arrived, I felt a little sorry for myself, having missed the nature, the sounds and the views. I am after all more of a country girl then city. We drove to my hotel, a quick outfit change, and I decided, I would venture out and find some tango classes to make the most out of my stay. As night fell, I started to open my eyes to the beauty of the city and acknowledged just how safe I felt. I think this is important to point out, and the ease of hailing a cab or ordering an Uber. It had a slightly American but Colonial feel. I couldn’t describe it, but my tour the next day explained it perfectly and was an absolute delight. I booked the tour guide myself through my contacts, I ended up having a 10 hour private tour – I was utterly worn out. I had learnt and seen so much I couldn’t believe the history and am still attempting to process it all. I've met me match, my guide spoke more than I do. Anyway I digress, time waits for no one, off I went, more Tango!

My next stop, Estancia staying with the Gauchos. I’m happy to name the place I stayed because they truly were magnificent - El Ombu de Areco. The care they put into their guests, staff and animals was very honourable. I had a large triple room and solo use of the rest of the house I was in. They have many day guests, but my advice is, stay for two nights if you ride. Seeing the horses gallop in early morning and each meal is amazing. Because I ride I had a very special ride rounding up the cattle, it was their spring so many babies to see here. I would say go just out of season though, it wouldn’t’ve been the same if there were lots of guests. I was also fortunate that one other rider over there spoke English - be prepared to use Google Translate or feel like you’re playing language charades! The owners speak English, but riders, not so much!

A couple more nights back in the city (2 hours away), iconic Tango shows and then it was time to say Adiós and return home!

All in the name of research.