India - Delhi, the Golden Triangle and Rajasthan

Daniel Adams on 12 January 2023
Often we travel to destinations where the hype gives us an impression of what to expect and envisage. For me it’s virtually impossible for this diverse and enriching country to be over-hyped or exaggerated. In over 30 trips to India I have never felt underwhelmed. Each visit has offered an absolute explosion for the senses; sights, sounds, colours, smells, heady chaos, serendipitous tranquillity. Its all there in one land that offers something fresh and new on every visit. Now you are reading the words of a well-travelled, true cynic but, against my will, even I admit that the tourist board motto ‘Incredible India’ resounds true, every visit, time and time again!

For most people the starting point and first trip to India and truly a wonderful combination with the legacy of the British Raj in New Delhi and Gandhi’s memorial in the old city, to ‘The Red Fort’ built by Shah Jahan, the fifth Mughal Emperor, with its huge enclosing walls. Old Delhi is home to the imposing Jama Masjid and a walk through lanes, or a thrilling rickshaw ride through the chaos of Chandni Chowk, the old city’s most famous shopping strip, crammed with stores where amidst this people somehow seem calm and accept the chaos as normal. Nothing cures jet lag after a night flight like this and I always feel instantly alive yet safe in this incredible (that word again!) country.

The gleaming white Taj Mahal in Agra is without doubt one of the world’s most exquisite and moving buildings, yet there is so much more to Agra, full of architectural wonders such as Itimad-ud-Daulah’s Tomb, a highly ornate edifice, which is looked upon as the precursor of the Taj Mahal. Your first glimpse of Agra’s most famous monument will be from ‘The Moonlit Garden’ across the river. Today the crowds are controlled with timed entrances and whilst people often wake up early to be there at sunrise, in my opinion sunset is far quieter, less danger of it being misty and the domes project the golden glow of sundown. For that famous view you are teased by a walk from the parking area and your view is blocked by a fortified wall until you enter through a narrow gateway to that jaw-dropping view. As a tour leader I used to, and still, love getting people to the gate then walking ahead of them to see chattering guests fall silent at something awesome (I have goose bumps still as I write – and am never jaded!) and witness the reaction, fist bumping the air reminding me why I do this…and get paid for it! Now, whilst the central aisle and the ‘Diana bench’ is the iconic view, at the side are wonderful gardens with resplendent bougainvillea in three colours that offer different photo opportunities….its truly (you guessed it!) incredible.

Rajasthan, the ‘Land of Kings’ earlier called Rajputana, constituted of 19 princely states, with its opulent palaces, historic forts and plethora of cultural offerings, it wins over hearts at first glance. Both surrounded by mountainous scenery the ‘Pink City’ of Jaipur and Udaipur, a city of tranquil lakes, will allow you to capture the essence of India without feeling rushed. Both cities have featured in the Best Exotic Marigold Hotel and Real Hotel Marigold at the movies and on television.

In Jaipur I visit my good friend Jaidee, grandson of a Maharajah, well-spoken and rather dashing, who has a wonderful small family run guest house, I’ll give you the details and send you to meet Jaidee, Divika his wife and their family and enjoy a home-cooked meal, charming hosts and hear of their lives and experiences that you can’t find in brochures and guide books. They are most welcoming and will leave a lasting impression. I smile and miss them as I write….

Still ruled by a much-respected Maharaja whose magnificent City Palace forms the heart of the city, Udaipur is one of the most impressive cities in Rajasthan. Set at the southern end of the Aravalli Hills, Udaipur overlooks Lake Pichola with the world-famous Lake Palace appearing to float on the water. Over 400 years, successive Maharajas have created an architectural gem in the City Palace, with the original structure overlaid with countless courtyards, balconies and halls. The city has plenty to offer and is a great place to practice haggling, with crafts, textiles and miniature paintings particularly good buys in Udaipur’s stalls and shops. The relaxed nature of its residents and lakeside location make Udaipur a wonderful city for recharging your batteries. Udaipur will always be my place to breathe deeply, feel relaxed, absorb the scenery of the lakes, mountains and exquisite sunsets that after busy days allow you to find balance and harmony in your own personal world and feel (am I over-using it now?) incredible.

There are a number of Tiger Parks in India to see these creatures in their natural habitat, in Rajasthan it would be Ranthambore National Park, the former hunting grounds of the Maharajas of Jaipur, to view not only Royal Bengal tigers, but also a plethora of bird and wildlife amidst beautiful natural scenery. A huge fort towers over the park atop a hill and many ruins of bygone eras are scattered all over the jungle, giving it a unique and wonderful flavour of nature, history and wildlife. The park is divided into ten zones and the number of jeeps allowed in each strictly limited. I suggest two or three game drives as tiger sightings have a 70% success rate.

There are other cities to visit: Jodhpur is the second largest city in Rajasthan, divided into two parts - the old city and the new city. The old city is separated by a 10 km long wall surrounding it. Also it has eight Gates leading out of it. The new city is outside the walled city with many beautiful palaces and forts such as Mehrangarh Fort, Jaswant Thada, Umaid Bhavan Palace and Rai ka Bag Palace. Being on the edge of the Thar Desert this city is great to combine with the annual Pushkar Camel Fair a spectacle to be hold. There are numerable festivals and a tour during Holi in March is wonderful and colours that will be etched in your memory for a long time.

I can go on endlessly but do contact me and lets discuss getting you to experience the fantastic India I adore, whether a tour operators group tour or using my contacts to create a bespoke tour with special touches....I promise you ...it will be (Yes!) truly INCREDIBLE!