The authentic heart of the Arabian Peninsula

Daniel Adams on 15 March 2023
I’ve been a regular visitor to Oman for a number of years now, I feel cheated of a visit to this welcoming country if I have to fly by. It offers a more sedate alternative to the glitzy emirate cities of Dubai, Doha and Abu Dhabi, is excellent as part of a regional multi-centre holiday and can be combined with travels to India, Sri Lanka or the Maldives.

Oman is a fascinating stand-alone destination boasting a unique culture, city sights, beaches, a vast array of natural attractions that range from rugged mountains to ochre deserts. The country’s abundant archaeological heritage reflects hundreds of years of foreign influence and international trade from a great seafaring nation. Oman is home to more than 500 forts, as well as castles, watchtowers and ancient cave paintings, not to mention four UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Muscat, has for centuries been the gateway to the Gulf of Persia and home to impressive mosques and palaces built under the reign of the late Sultan. The city is divided by four lush valleys and, unlike other regional capitals, there are no high rises or skyscrapers, so the views are unobscured. Must sees are the exterior of the Al Alam Palace, the official residence of his late Majesty Sultan Qaboos and current Sultan Haitham bin Tariq, located between twin Portuguese forts. Across the road is the National Museum housing galleries and collections depicting the cultural and historical dimensions of the sultanate. Oman is the oldest independent state in the Arab world. By the 18th century, the Omani Empire stretched from present day Oman and down the east coast of Africa.

On 23 July 1970, the British government backed a coup in Oman to install the Sultan’s son, Qaboos, after they became increasingly worried of ‘losing’ the oil rich Dhofar province of Oman to a popular insurgency by leftist rebels. After, a new era began in granting more rights for women, investment to improve literacy and lives of people in rural communities. English is widely taught, spoken in cities and a range of trade and military joint cooperation exists with the British who are welcome and well thought of. Oman was the first country in the region to allow women in parliament and today, some hold ministerial positions.

I always enjoy an evening stroll along the waterfront Corniche to the Muttrah Souk, a traditional Arab market selling Omani and Indian objects, antiques, traditional textiles, hardware, jewellery and frankincense. To me, the souk is a reflection of Oman and its people, compared to its neighbours; less frenetic and a less bothered shopping experience where you can exchange chit-chat with the locals with less pressure or obligation to buy. These warm evenings with the breeze from the sea is what a winter holiday in a warm climate is all about. The local restaurants offer everything from a simple but truly tasty Meze to a range of international cuisines.

The greatest part of Oman is seeing how diverse the landscapes are. Away from the coast paved roads are rare and having your own trustee driver and 4x4 vehicle make Oman a true adventure. We take the drive on the off-road tracks through Wadi Mia and the mountain road to the Wadi Dayqah Dam, the highest and largest in Oman. Then, continue via the spring of Wadi Arbaeen to the Bimmah Sinkhole which, according to legend, was formed by a falling star. Enjoy a refreshing swim and in one area you can experience a free tiny fish pedicure!

That same day saw us drive off road climbing high into the Eastern Hajar Mountains, through some spectacularly colourful rock formations, green with copper oxide and rust-red with iron ore, and pass by a natural spring. This region offers some great trekking opportunities and there is always a chance to take a dip in springs and oases. After, travel into the desert and check-in for an overnight stay at the Oryx Desert Camp where to venture into the sands of the Wahiba Desert and enjoy the thrills of dune bashing to capture another magnificent Arabian sunset. Samir our trustee driver has now become a great friend and just full of wonderful local knowledge and little snippets, yet he also knows when we need peace to enjoy the scenery and take the immensity of it in.

After a night in a luxurious ‘camp’, my kind of camping, Samir takes us through the stunning hidden wadis (valleys) of the Al Hajar Mountains to Ibra. It’s Wednesday which means women-only market day for Bedouin from the surrounding Sharqiya Sands all in various exotic tribal dresses, women rummage through shimmering silks, gold and silver brocades and textiles and the cacophony of these ladies bargaining is very amusing.

An absolute must is to view the spectacular canyon of Wadi Ghul, the second deepest in the world. No coaches of tourists, no signs, fences, barriers….just two other vehicles and raw open scenery for which there simply are not enough adjectives to describe…I simply stand in awe, breathe and take in the moment and this gift that travel gives.

Friday sees the ancient Omani capital of Nizwa come to life for the weekly livestock market. Farmers and traders arrive from far and wide to barter and trade at one of the finest traditional markets in the Middle East. After, I love to wander one of Oman’s oldest souks and try many varieties of dates and an array of freshly prepared Omani sweets and spices before exploring the fort where the view of the date plantations and Al Hajar Mountains is worth the climb. As the call for Friday prayers commences, it’s time to retreat for a relaxed afternoon to take a swim and have my own inner peace.

Time to head back to Muscat for some chilled time on the beach. This can either be taken in a resort close to Muscat or a 90 minute flight south to Salalah, Oman’s second largest city where camel roam the beaches and oasis of the national parks with coves inhabited by giant turtles and dolphins. Close by is Job’s Tomb, considered to be one of Islam’s most renowned prophets. The tomb is situated in the hills amidst camel farms.

The other beach option Khasab, dubbed the "Norway of Arabia" because of its extensive fjord-like craggy inlets and desolate mountainscapes. From Muscat its a 50 minute flight or a five hour ferry to enjoy the spectacular views of the surrounding mountains near the Musandam Peninsula, in addition to having a unique experience to navigate through the Strait of Hormuz with its oil tankers traffic.

Oman is simply breathtaking....I urge you to go....Lets talk!