Riga. From behind the iron curtain, to centre stage.

Riga. From behind the iron curtain, to centre stage.

Stepping off the plane in Riga, the crisp Baltic air immediately felt different — cleaner, calmer, yet buzzing. We easily caught the 22 bus from outside the airport entrance to our accommodation, right in the heart of the city.

As evening fell, I wandered through Old Town (Vecrīga) — a maze of cobblestone streets. The sound of laughter drifted from tucked-away bars and cafés. There is a huge choice of dining options, from traditional Latvian meat balls, to dumplings, sushi, pizza and everything inbetween. We ate at a lively underground tavern called Ala. It serves hearty Latvian fare and local beer. Between the candlelight, live folk music, and the rustic stone arches, I felt transported to another time.

Before turning in, I took a slow walk past St. Peter’s Church, its spire glowing softly against the night sky. Riga had already worked its charm.

After a lazy morning coffee, we further exploted the city, and did a 2 hour walking your, getting to know the history of the town, along with past and present references of rulership and sadly subjurgation. I explored Alberta iela, Riga’s Art Nouveau district. The facades here are breathtaking,  all flowing curves, ornate faces, and mythic creatures carved into stone. It’s no wonder Riga is called the Art Nouveau capital of Europe.

As dusk approached, I crossed the Daugava River to explore Āgenskalns, a creative neighborhood full of pop-up art spaces and modern eateries. Dinner was at Mīkla Bakery & Café, followed by cocktails at Modernists, a bar that could easily hold its own in Berlin or Copenhagen. The mix of old-world elegance and contemporary edge defines Riga’s energy — historic, yet never stuck in time.

No visit to Riga is complete without a trip to the Central Market, one of Europe’s largest, housed in old zeppelin hangars. I spent the morning sampling smoked fish, rye bread, and pickled everything. By evening, the market transformed into a quieter, glowing monument to everyday life.

That night, I joined locals at Kaņepes Kultūras Centrs, a bohemian cultural center with live music and art performances. The vibe was effortlessly cool — students, artists, travelers, all mingling over cheap drinks and deep conversation.

Before heading back, I walked up to the Vansu Bridge for a midnight view of the city skyline reflected on the Daugava River. Riga at night is pure poetry — calm, glimmering, timeless.

We took a trip on the river, explored a couple of the museums, including the KGB interrogation buildings. This really brought home the horror that people suffered in my lifetime! I Watched the sunset over the Freedom Monument, the golden dome of Nativity Cathedral, and the sparkling silhouettes of Old Town all shining in soft amber light.

herbal liqueur) in hand, I toasted to a city that blends history, culture, and creativity in perfect balance.

Riga is one of those places that rewards curiosity. Whether you’re chasing architectural beauty, experimental art, or just the feeling of getting lost in a storybook city, Riga delivers. Four nights wasn’t enough — but it was unforgettable. Its only 2.5 hours from London with flights on BA. What are you waiting for?