Sri Lanka Rediscovered

A warm welcome awaited us when we arrived at Colombo Airport. We had flown overnight with SriLankan Airlines direct from London Heathrow. The crew, dressed in beautiful uniforms, were attentive, and the flight was comfortable with enjoyable meals. Our hosts greeted us with flower garlands and assisted us in getting eSIMs for the week. These provided excellent coverage and were very affordable. I also bought Sri Lankan rupees here, getting a much better rate than what was available in the UK. From there, we took a short drive to Negombo for a lovely dinner in the peaceful setting of the Uga Riva hotel. We met with many of the people I work with on the island, who came to greet us and share more about our itinerary. The setting was beautiful, with wildlife roaming the grounds and a relaxing pool area. This was our first taste of the delicate birdsong that serenades you all over the island—giving way only to the evening frog chorus! Sri Lanka is a large island and the size need to be considered in planning the perfect itinerary. It is also wonderfully diverse, with a great variety of ecosystems, so some travelling is necessary to get the most of your time here. We took a 45 minute flight with Cinnamon Air to the East Coast. They are very well connected on the island now, some road travel between destinations is still to be expected.

Passikudah offered us a beautiful beach stay at Uga Bay Hotel. It's an excellent spot to relax, perhaps as a midpoint in your tour to slow the pace. We took a 10-minute boat ride from right outside the hotel to a lovely snorkeling spot. The visibility depends on the time of year, of course, but we saw a great variety of fish. The right beach stay for you depends on the itinerary we build after discussing your ideal highlights. There are many lovely beach resorts, and Sri Lanka also has good connections to the Maldives!

Starting our historical and cultural experiences, we set off early for Polonnaruwa. It is a powerfully evocative site with great religious significance. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is Sri Lanka’s second-oldest kingdom, located in the North Central Province, where much of the island’s ancient history has been discovered. Our driver-guide was excellent, sharing stories of the past along with insights into modern-day Sri Lankan life. The grounds are extensive, so we drove between various points of interest, removing our shoes and covering our shoulders to respectfully visit Gal Vihara, Rankot Vihara, and much more.

Sigiriya, or Lion Rock, was our next stop—best visited in the early morning to avoid the heat and crowds. Now, I have to confess that the climb to the summit was too much for me, and I ducked out of the 1,200-step ascent to see the ruins of King Kasyapa’s fortified palace. However, there is plenty to see and enjoy from ground level. The walk through the inner ramparts is moving, leading up to the imposing rock fortress. The summit stands at nearly 200 metres high, and at the entrance, the lion’s paw carvings still welcome visitors. Leaving Sigiriya, we took a road that is avoided later in the day due to roaming adult male wild elephants. It was a joy to see them wandering along the road as we passed.

We spent the evening at Ulagalla, where we arrived after sunset in a rainstorm—perfect given the secluded, lush setting. After our welcome wish ceremony, we took buggies down to our rooms. Each pool villa comes with bicycles so guests can explore the grounds. There’s also a scenic jeep drive led by the resort’s conservationists. Leaving here, we visited the hustle and bustle of Dambulla Vegetable market, a real assault on the senses and insight in to life in the area, then on to the more serene Cave Temple, with it’s famous golden Buddha. Lunch was at a local farm restaurant that welcomes visitors to see their traditional ways of food preparation and offer the most incredible communal lunch, with stunning views of the grounds. Our next drive took us into the central hill country, along winding roads through rice fields and into the clouds. As we arrived at Dream Cliff Mountain Resort, we knew something special awaited us—we were met by a moody panoramic view from reception and were upgraded to their King Beehive Rooms—the most breathtaking sunrise view!

The following day, we rode a convoy of tuk-tuks to the colonial-era Nine Arch Bridge—the “Bridge in the Sky”! Visitors walked the tracks and sat on the walls to capture those perfect Instagram moments. We couldn’t stay long, as we were due for lunch at Chena Huts before heading out on safari in Yala National Park. We returned at sunset for a sundowner cocktail party on the beach. I took two game drives during our stay, one at 3pm and one at 6am. Both were lovely, there was a certain magic to the morning drive though having waited on the beach as the sun rose. We saw crocodiles, buffalo, a wide range of interesting birds, elephants, monkeys, deer and a mother leopard playing with her cubs. Sri Lanka has an incredible number of national parks and a range of safari options. There are also some wonderful birding experiences.

The next day was about giving back and experiencing daily life in Sri Lanka. We were invited to a local nursery school, where I must confess—I cried like a mum away from her children—when the beautiful young boys and girls performed a song and dance in Sinhala about their mothers. They offered us flowers and sweet tea, and we gave each child a gift of a new lunchbox and school supplies. The 3- and 4-year-olds responded with a joyful “Thank you!” in perfect English. From there, we visited a local family and helped plant fruit trees in their garden with our guide Ananda, who runs a tree-planting project that enables families to grow fruit and nuts for personal use or income. After a stop at a turtle rescue centre, we continued on to Galle.

Galle was founded by the Portuguese when they arrived—by accident!—in the 16th century. The historic fort and famous lighthouse are must-sees, and walking the coastal ramparts offers stunning views. The vibe here is different—more relaxed—and it's a lovely spot for boutique shopping and great food. Our friendly boutique hotel, Aditya, was just 20 minutes from the city, right on the beach.

There’s so much more I could share about my time in wonderful Sri Lanka—I’ve barely touched on the fantastic food! Feel free to give me a call if you’d like to chat and hear more.

Ayubowan!