A journey down the M1 in Malawi
Driving along Malawi’s mostly single carriageway M1, you’ll find local markets spilling onto the road, bicycle taxis stacked high with seemingly implausible loads, roadside shops with names like ‘Slow but Sure’ to make you smile, women in colourful wraps balancing bundles of firewood on their heads, and far-reaching vistas of the ribbon-like Lake Malawi, which stretches nearly three quarters of the country’s length.
Malawi is my happy place! I spent five wonderful years living here between 2010 and 2015, managing lodges from the wildflower rich grasslands of the Nyika Plateau to the lush, tropical environs of Liwonde National Park.
Sitting on the southern branch of the Great Rift Valley, the resulting geology has gifted this land-locked country spectacular landscapes of peaks, plateaus, escarpments and lakes. These beauty spots are strung out along the M1, and with Malawi’s small size (about half that of the UK), its possible to explore many of the highlights by road in a two-week holiday.
A popular place to start a journey in Malawi is in the southern region, flying into the commercial centre of Blantyre. The city is surrounded by the fertile Shire Highlands and gloriously green and exquisitely manicured tea and coffee estates. A short stay on the Satemwa Estate makes a scenic start to a holiday with a range of activities on offer from tea tasting and coffee tours, to hiking or mountain biking, as well as day trips to Mount Mulanje known locally as the ‘island in the sky’, because it rises dramatically from the plains to 3000m.
Also within easy reach of Blantyre is the vast expanse of Majete Game Reserve, Malawi’s first Big Five wildlife reserve. Amidst the rugged scenery of granite hills and mature woodlands are good populations of elephant and buffalo, as well as magnificent sable antelope not often seen in other safari locations.
Travelling northwards up the M1 is another wildlife treat. Liwonde National Park sits on the palm fringed banks of the Shire River. Boat safaris here truly offer some of the best river-based game viewing in Africa. The river is wide and slow flowing; pods of hippos float like oversized logjams in the shallows, enormous crocodiles sun themselves on the banks, in the heat of the day elephants line the water’s edge for a much needed drink, and on the grassy floodplains impala and waterbuck graze contentedly.
The birdlife is vibrant, dazzlingly colourful and easily seen too. Jewel-like malachite kingfishers zip along the reeds close to the boats and vocal African Fish Eagles perch in the tall trees scanning the river for their next meal. For birders, Liwonde is a great spot for localised species including Bohm’s bee-eater and Lilian’s lovebirds, rarities such as African Skimmers and Palm Nut Vulture as well as the elusive Pel’s Fishing Owl.
Both these parks are testament to Malawi’s wildlife conservation success. With the help of African Parks, Malawi has carried out some incredible wildlife translocations and reintroductions. Lion, leopard, cheetah, wild dogs, and black rhino are just some of the animals that have returned to Malawi’s wild places and are now spotted regularly on safari.
Continuing north up the M1 you arrive at Lake Malawi. It is also known as the Lake of Stars, so called by Dr David Livingstone, the first European to map out the lake, who thought the fisherman’s lanterns at night resembled the stars in the sky. Lake Malawi is so enormous (365 miles long and 52 miles wide) that it is hard to believe it is freshwater!
The lakeshore is perfect for swimming, snorkelling, kayaking, diving or lazy days with a book... Sunsets are exceptional – the fiery colours reflected in the rippling waters - and a Malawi Gin & Tonic (MGT) is practically mandatory… What’s more much its shores boast dreamy sandy beaches that are practically empty bar a few fishermen and local children playing games.
At this point on your trip, depending on your pace of travel and how long you have, you may have already filled your holiday time and sadly have to leave. In which case, you can conveniently fly out of the capital Lilongwe, which is located in Central Malawi.
Should you wish to stay on the M1, then North Malawi although less well known than the rest of the country has some unique highlights. Nyika National Park is Malawi’s largest and one of the most unusual in Africa. It spans a gigantic rolling grass-covered plateau that stretches as far as the eye can see. The high altitude environment (over 2100m) produces exceptional plant diversity – think African alpine meadow dotted with roan antelope, warthog and leopard… Aside from conventional safaris, Nyika is a fantastic walking and birding destination.
Another alternative from Lilongwe is to take a short flight to the castaway-like island of Likoma, in the north-eastern corner of Lake Malawi, close to the shores of Mozambique. This petite unspoilt island has outstanding beaches, crystal clear waters, and a surprising amount of colonial history – notably St Peter’s Cathedral which is the same size as Winchester Cathedral! It is easy to discover on foot, by bike or quad bike.
Throughout Malawi there is a range of accommodation styles to suit many travellers from tiny off-grid eco camps, to traditional safari lodges, friendly home-from-home guesthouses, and awarding winning luxury lodges.
Saving the best till last – perhaps one of the biggest benefits of travelling by road is getting a more real sense of local life. Malawi is a super friendly country and you’ll be greeted with sunny smiles and happy curiosity wherever you go.
If you’re adventurous and looking for a natural paradise away from the crowds then Malawi should be on your to-visit list!
Footnote: Although it is possible to self-drive in Malawi, it is better suited to the more experienced Africa driver. On the whole, the roads are not nearly as good as in South Africa or Namibia. Car hire can also be expensive, so local driver guides are a good option. They know the roads and drive them every day, so you can just relax and enjoy the journey, and at the same time ask all about the places you’re going to and the local culture.