Tbilisi Tips

I adored Tbilisi for its architectural charm both old and new, walkable streets, pop-up pomegranate juice stalls, and incredibly tasty food!

EXPLORE

There are many impressive landmarks. I started at Metekhi Church perched on the left bank of the Mtkvari River. It’s one of the oldest churches in Tbilisi dating back to 13th and has some of the best views of Tbilisi’s Old Town. The church itself was atmospheric and busy with residents, offering a glimpse into local culture.

Abanotubani - the old bath house area, a slightly ramshackle labyrinth of lanes with colourful houses and brick domed sulphur baths - it’s like navigating charming mole hills. I didn’t the baths, but if you have time for a scrub and soak they are said to be rejuvenating and relaxing.

Walk between the old and new towns over the curvy steel and glass Peace Bridge (joking nicknamed the sanitary towel by locals).

Eat out in the popular Shardani Street where you’ll be spoilt for choice of cafes and restaurants.

Take the cable car up to Narikala Fortress for fabulous views of the winding Old Town streets from above. The hilltop fortress was built by David the Builder one of Georgia’s most revered ancient kings in the 11th century.

Dry Bridge Flea Market - a huge flea market with an utterly random collection of Soviet memorabilia, records, rugs, and household items. There are bargains here if you have an eye for antiques.

TASTE

My visit to Georgia was fuelled by food! I’d had a copy of Olia Hercules Kaukasis recipe book for a few years and was longing to taste some of the wonderful and unique dishes she describes. I was not disappointed! Georgian cuisine is all about local fresh produce, magical sweet-tart pairings such as meat stews with sour plums or pomegranate, a vast array of spices and herbs, and features lots of nuts especially walnuts.

And then there’s the wine… With an 8000 year history of wine making, hundreds of indigenous grape varieties, unique qvevri fermentation techniques (large earthenware vessels), and a wine colour scale from amber to black, wine tasting was a must!

Do try: Khachapuri - soft, fluffy filled flat breads stuffed with meat, beans or cheese - it’s the ultimate comfort food!

Ajapsandali - a rich Georgian ratatouille - the mix of vegetables is unique to each cook but the main ingredient is always aubergine and a good amount of garlic. Amusingly, ajapsandali is also used to describe a chaotic situation!

Khinkali - boiled dumplings - the mushroom variety was my favourite.

Chakapuli - an aromatic lamb stew flavoured with sour plums, onions and tarragon.

Churchkhela - strings of dried fruits and nuts that look like they’ve been dipped in colourful wax but is actually a mixture of flour and concentrated grape juice.

Matsoni -a fermented, creamy yogurt that’s delicious for breakfast with pieces of churchkhela

The tea is amazing too in Georgia. Try the snow rose tea blend with rhododendron, blueberry leaves and rose petals.

STAY

The Rustaveli Avenue area (named after a famous Georgian poet) is very convenient as it’s easily walkable to restaurants and sights.

You need a minimum of 3 nights but 4 or 5 nights would be better as there’s plenty to see and do. It’s also worth bearing in mind that there are no direct flights from the UK to Tbilisi, and with the current flights timings you’ll land at a very early hour of the morning so, factoring in an extra day to catch up on sleep is not a bad idea.

WHEN TO GO

Go late spring or early summer for the best weather. Tbilisi is in the lowlands and the summer can be intense - 40°C plus. In July and August many residents head for the cooler climes of coast or the mountains.

Tbilisi is particularly festive in late May. An annual new winemakers festival is celebrated in Mtatsminda Park, with hundreds of winemakers, and you can enjoy a bottomless tastings… Georgia’s Independence Day also falls on 26 May and Rustaveli Avenue becomes a big open air street party.

PERSONAL RECOMMENDATIONS

Best restaurant - Racha in Tbilisi’s vibrant Sololaki neighborhood. It’s a typical local eatery - nothing special to look at, quite spartan and the service is perfunctory, but the homestyle cooking was some of the best we tried and we wished we’d had time to return.

Dadi Wine Bar - a few steps away from the busy Freedom Square and great place to sample Georgian Wines. The length of the wine list (over 200) is a bit overwhelming but the staff were very helpful in making suggestions.

Shopping for local handicrafts - Ethnodesign run by the association of Georgian Heritage Crafts. Near Rustaveli Underground Station, this shop has a lovely selection jewellery and decorative items all beautifully made using traditional crafting methods such as enamel work, wood carving, felting etc..

TIPS

You’ll need a headscarf to visit churches. Phones/cameras aren’t allowed in some churches.

There's no real tipping culture. Service charge is often included already. If not, round up the bill rather than leaving a tip.

Reserve at popular restaurants a few days ahead. The eating out scene in Tbilisi can be busy, especially in the last couple of years with the influx of Ukrainian refugees and Russian exiles.

Some places openly express anti-Russian sentiment so be mindful that politics can be touchy. Some restaurants won’t accept Russian patrons while Ukrainians are welcome.