Alpine Adventures

Tracie Cooke on 26 December 2021
I've been so lucky to ski in some great resorts; stretching from Europe to the USA. I still recall my very first trip to Zell am See and Kaprun in Austria; it was early December and it was freezing! I had a low cost ski suit from C&A and no thermal underlayers. The ski equipment was pretty worn out and I found the drag lifts both terrifying and exhilarating at the same time! Things moved on; I learnt fast that having the right ski attire and equipment was key to having fun and more importantly; ski school could make or break your holiday. What didn't falter was my immediate love of the mountains and this remains today. I never tire of the views from the top of the piste, they are simply breath-taking. There is a certain peace and serenity associated with the mountains that can’t quite be put into words, it really should be experienced first-hand. A little strange to consider that something as challenging as navigating a steep, slippery slope can actually leave you feeling strangely relaxed; once you’ve traversed it!

Zell am See and Kaprun have the benefit of access to a glacier and this ensures good snow across the season; particularly as many Austrian resorts are not actually situated at high altitude, unlike some of their European counterparts. Zell has a pedestrianised centre and is set beside a lake that often freezes through the winter. Kaprun is the main access point for the glacier and both villages are well facilitated. They are also conveniently situated for taking a day excursion into Salzburg itself, which is particularly attractive when shrouded in snow.

I’d describe myself as an entirely recreational skier; I have no wish to take on the more terrifying, steep descents and much prefer the blue runs to black. For me it isn't about the accumulated ski miles, I enjoy the views as much as the skiing. I recall a favourite ski run in Vermont, known as Lullaby Lane; it’s a beautiful kilometre glide through the trees on Stowe Mountain. Whilst the range of slopes here isn’t vast, they are both wide and long and it’s a great option for your first trip to the USA and for a family ski trip too. It’s also a good option if you’d like to spend a few days in Boston or visit more than one ski area during a single trip.

Personally, my skiing heart belongs to Austria. With its fantastic ski schools and wonderful traditional hospitality; it feels truly authentic. If snow record is important, head to the higher altitude resorts of Obergurgl, Lech, Kuhtai and Solden or at least one with access to a glacier such as Zell am See, Kaprun or Mayrhofen.

Kitzbuhel will always hold a special place in my heart; I’ve skied here many times and it’s the place my son honed his technique from a very young age. The Red Devils Ski School is literally one of the best you’ll find, anywhere. It's a pretty alpine town and the ski area is divided into two areas; the Kitzbuhel Horn with its sunny slopes and a large bowl ski area which is perfect for beginners and new intermediates; leading to a great downhill run that takes you directly back to the village. The run itself divides into sections suitable for all levels although it can be quite narrow and icy in places. If the snow level is good, I’d highly recommend it. Closer to the centre of the town, you’ll find the infamous Hahnenkamm, home to perhaps the most famous downhill race on the World Cup Circuit and open to regular skiers that are brave enough to take on its steep descent back to the town. I haven’t skied this from top to bottom, although my then eight year old seemed to have no real difficulties! No fear at that age! I did however, secure myself a silver medal in a novice slalom event here on one of my visits and can therefore officially say that I have skied the Hahnenkamm! The town has much to offer the visitor with an array of activities to keep non-skiers happy too; including plenty of shops, bars, cafes and restaurants; a leisure centre and curling facility.

The White Ring in the Arlberg in Austria is perhaps the best place I’ve skied, the lift system is well connected and most lifts are heated and covered. Access to the slopes is limited in numbers and it never feels crowded. This is one of Europe's finest ski areas and I feel very fortunate to have visited this region. We stayed in Zurs; it’s a tiny village with fantastic hotels, where the service is first class. The terrain here is suitable for all skiers from beginner to expert and you’ll soon attain your ‘ski legs’ here with the expert tuition and guiding services. For a day away from the slopes, take a sleigh ride through the forest or go ice skating. I’d recommend an evening dinner in a forest restaurant here as a very special experience. If budget allows, this is a fantastic area and not to be missed.

More challenging and attempted on our most recent visit to the mountains, is the 65km Skicircus route between Saalbach, Hinterglemm and Leogang. Challenge yourself to complete it in a single day or take in a part of the route each day of your stay. Some of these slopes are pretty steep and not for the faint hearted. At times this felt beyond my capabilities but it afforded us some fantastic views along the way and dinner and drinks in the unique Goat Stall Bar/Restaurant at the end of the day. Yes! There are real goats in this bar! For a day away from the slopes, take a sleigh ride into the forest from nearby Hinterglemm and follow a tree top walking trail before enjoying a hot chocolate in a traditional log cabin restaurant. We stayed in the centre of Saalbach in a beautiful traditional hotel, one I’d highly recommend.

My favourite time of year to visit the mountains is probably New Year when the resorts come alive in joyous celebration with some spectacular slope-side events. You'll experience nothing like a New Year alpine style; with torchlit processions down the slopes; singing and dancing in the snow covered streets and firework displays that will literally light up the mountains. It is a very special time to visit. Later in the season can give you longer, sunnier days and is recommended if you are travelling with younger family members as the temperatures are much higher and you’re less likely to feel the cold that can be bitter during the early season. I guess there is always a trade-off and it’s important to know what to expect.

If you’re planning a trip, get in touch; I’ll be happy to answer any questions and discuss options to suit your party requirements.